85lebaront2

Check on Gary's information, he has a very good electronic replacement for the thermo-mechanical ICVR.

Do you have any idea how much fluid there is in an E4OD? 16.2 qts including the converter and after sitting a while the converter drains halfway down back into the pan. You wonder why it made a mess?

Try this again, logged in and it still dumped my post. I would take good look at the lever travel on both the 1981 and 1990 columns, if they are the same then I would check the diameter of the collar the shifter goes into as something has to account for the extra 1/4" of cable travel. The later starter relays are more of a pancake design, with the 3 or 4 posts pointing straight in from the fender.

First. how far does the 1990 E4OD indicator move? If it has the same travel as the C6, why couldn't you make a new back for it with the correct letters, or maybe just do a circle or oval white area with the black D in it or a circle around the D to make it an OD? Relay box, I agree with the mystery 4 relay box, however, if you have low and high speed fans, and as the Brits say main and dipped beam, you will have what you need, if you want a Bosch starter relay, well, you need 5 unless you are only going to use a relay on the main beam.

The key is that it has a mechanical linkage instead of a cable.

Device, homebuilt desktop PC running Windows 10 Pro version 1703 64 bit 16Gb ram, Intel Core i5-3570K CPU @ 3.40 GHz 3.80 GHz (Quad core) Browser, Chrome No, I generally do not keep multiple tabs open, occasionally, but not on a regular basis. I am more likely to use multiple windows so I can toggle between them. Unless there is an "active" conversation underway I close any tabs/windows I am not using

Ok, I figured you would keep the original horn setup. Trailer marker light relay I would keep, it unloads the headlight switch and has a separate fuse. If you need it I have an extra Bronco auxiliary relay box, it takes 4 Bosch relays, I use the two shown under the PDC as designated, and the other two I use for left and right stop/turn trailer lights. On the dually, the marker lamp function of the trailer/marker lamps relay is used for the fender and rear marker lamps.

Yes, and to further confuse the issue, I have been logged in make a post and suddenly like right now shows I am not logged in??? I was able to post this despite "not being logged in".

Gee, I don't have a problem with my lifeproof case.

I measured the right side, on the later harness it is (a) furthest distance and (b) in front of the battery so it was right next to my ground. I also have the 1990 Halogen bulbs in the composite headlight assembly.

Ok, Gary, I have the readings. I forgot that when I put the 1999 Crown Victoria Lighting Control Module (LCM) that the 40 amp Maxi fuse in slot #19 changed to a 10 amp breaker so I wasn't able to get a voltage reading there. Readings are as follows: Vbat - 14.79 VDC PDC stud 14.70 VDC High beam wire 13.19 VDC Low beam wire 13.55 VDC Ground wire 0.163 VDC All readings except low beam taken engine running at idle lights on high beam with a Fluke model 75 DMM

It was supposed to go yesterday, but some imbecile in a light plane flew right into the clearly designated FAA no-fly zone, hope he enjoyed his time as a pilot, because in addition to violating the no-fly zone, he ignored radio messages to leave. As a result the launch was scrubbed till today.

Damn, what did you expect from HF, as I told a good friend, HF and Northern Tool both sell Chinese crap, Northern's seems to be a little higher quality.

Gary, the headlight feed is the same R/Y wire it was in 1981, so since you are keeping the interior pretty much original, that part shouldn't change. On the voltage readings, I plan on doing it engine running, lights on high and low beam, measured at the battery, PDC power stud, Fuse #19 (both sides because I know how anal you are ) then the headlight low and high respectively and finally, FWIW, the ground pin on the headlight all to battery negative. Do you want pictures too?

The dimmer switch is on the column, it is the later style combination switch hi-lo beam, flash to pass (optical horn) wipers and turn signals. The #19 fuse in the PDC feeds the B1 terminal on the headlight switch this terminal is internally connected only to the H terminal when the headlights are on. The 1986 had the separate infeed, same color wire, but everything there was fed through the ammeter shunt wire off the crack head alternator circuits. This, coupled with the poor grounds on these trucks limited the voltage available under load. Once you have the stuff from Ray in hand you will see the size of the feed from the battery to the PDC, I would imagine the voltage drop from battery to PDC is quite small. It will be tomorrow as (a) it is getting dark here and (b) 35° out.

Why change the headlights? Just because Ford's electrical designers for the 1980-86 trucks were probably all at Woodstock is no reason to not use the later system as built. I asked if you wanted me to get some voltage readings on Darth at the battery and right headlight (If I can get to it) since it is the furthest on the harness.

Yes, all of those, also look at the ATSG manual (available from NAPA) it includes some valve body, front seal and some of the same stuff Baumann is recommending. The reman converters I was getting were the top of the line, Bert Hawkes believed in doing it right the first time and not having come backs from taking shortcuts.

You can post it, I did that one myself from EVTMs and AllData.

Gary. in the PDC, maxifuse #19 is "headlight switch" and is a dedicated feed through a BK/OR wire directly to the headlight switch connection B1. There is nothing else on that circuit unlike the older trucks. On the EEC-V controls, any relays, solenoids etc. controlled by the EEC are done by grounding in the EEC. As a result there are several "power ground" pins, 24, 51, 76, 77 & 103 to handle the current needed. Fan control, not on trucks, cars with electric fans use two relays external to the EEC system, one being a high current relay for the high speed fan(s). They are pin 28 for low and 46 for high, A/C high pressure sensor (some diagrams call it a switch, some a pressure sensor) is inputted at pin 41. Knock sensors, first issue is finding one that will work, second is getting the correct location. Input is pin 57 for KS1 and 32 for KS2 (these are for the Lincoln Continental DOHC 4.6L).

If you do replace your belts and going to trash them I am looking for 2 male & 2 female latches assy. don't need the webbing just the latches assy. I got a plan for them on my truck if they will work. I am in no rush I just hate to cut up a good set of belts even from the JY. Dave ---- Dave, I have some extra left overs I will dig out and get pictures for you.

Scans of 1986, 1990 and 1996 fuse panels emailed to you.

Damn, too bad the 1986 ones I took out won't fit, they are in much better shape.

Gary, when we get back later from Onancock I will scan the fusebox portions of both the PDC and dashboard ones. I think there is a dedicated headlight switch feed. If you need it I can get voltage readings for you at the battery, PDC, headlight switch feed and right headlight (one furthest away) both low and high beam engine at idle. I know there are several large infeed wires in the bulkhead connector.

Gary, no headlight relays were used on the older trucks, the newer switch may be more capable of handling the current draw of the bulbs, or the newer headlights don't draw as much current as the older ones. On another note, your ICVR (I think that was it) thread on FTE, do you still have the information on building one? I am thinking of doing one for the Chevstang I am working on for my parts source, Donnie Medlin.

Gary, the PDC on the later trucks houses all the inside feeds and includes the horn relay, EEC power relay (feeds all the solenoids on the engine, injectors, IAC etc.) attached to it's mounting bracket is the 42 pin engine connector (C101). The fender relay is one of the later style flat relays, you could simply use the ring terminal on the dual fusible links to attach to a battery cable end like many Japanese cars use or remove them, add a good size terminal and use a nice big mega fuse. The infeed to the PDC is protected by fusible links due to it's location, running across the front end over the radiator area. This prevents it from shorting out in a collision. On the DRL bypass, if either the DRL module or the jumper is not installed, no low beams. It is not in any way tied to the EEC. Still haven't found where I put the 1996 EVTM.