85lebaront2

No, but it would be on the left side down behind the bumper area and will have a oval plug into a blanking socket. It will come off the cross radiator harness.

Two things, your huck might have one, the 1990 parts truck I bought did. On the computer, I just bought a new HP 17" laptop to replace my 11 year old one that was getting cranky and I don't want to deal with a dual boot on my new MacBook Pro. My Innovate has a serial cable and I use a serial to USB cable to connect to the laptop. Then in my hardware license I have the Innovate in it so it goes directly into the data log.

Jim, I think mine is the LM-1, I will have to look at it tomorrow.

Yes it does, I have a 4 into 1 USB adapter, the only problem I ever had was with my datalogging, the Inovate had to be on it's own USB port.

You might want to hang on to the DRL module, they are NLA from Ford and unless Gary wants that feature, I have a couple of US market jumper plugs to replace it. I suspected the 4WD stuff would be there, every later harness I have seen does.

Simpler and cheaper yet, there are boxes that plug into a USB port and give you three ports. That's what I use when datalogging, I have a 4 USB port external adapter, MacBooks only used to have 2 USB ports.

Not LS, older LT1, the one with the distributor behind the water pump and driven by the camshaft. I didn't say it wasn't but it was what Pete Medlin wanted and helping him 6 or 7 years ago when he was building it was fun and beneficial. He made it look like a GT350 cosmetically.

Gary, I may have some extras, I will have to check my EEC-V spares. No, the 104 pin connectors are smaller and as yet I haven't found a good aftermarket source. Depending on what Ray sends you might have something. I would look for a junkyard 1996 F250 as the front harness will probably have those wires at least as far as the transmission plugs. I believe it is only one wire and it is the same one that lights the LO indicator light. Ford may have put them in the front harness as the cost of one or two extra wires is cheaper than having to build 5 or 6 different ones. Biggest issue I found, is under 8500 GVW truck harnesses have the air bag wiring in them which is 6 or more wires with no use other than that. Other thing, it will have the rear ABS wiring and no brake failure switch wiring, instead it will have fluid level sensor circuits.

Rick, I understand your view and respect it. I did the modifications on Darth because I had to replace the front sheet metal to start, the PO parked by feel. Second item was the bed, one dually fender was damn near obliterated and the metal eating termites had been quite busy over the fenders. 1985-86 dually beds are made from unubtanium and finding a good one, well, honest politicians and hens teeth are more common (Ford introduced the Sterling 10.25 in 1985 and increased the track width on the rear) due to this, an earlier bed will fit, but the outboard duals will stick out of the fenders. Fortunately, the frame and bolt locations didn't change and I found a good 1996 bed. I had gotten tired of either having to manually prime the carburetor by jumping the crank wire on the fuel pump circuit to run the selected pump, or crank until the carb filled. I did not then nor do I now drive Darth every day, parking, fuel consumption etc. are the reasons. I really didn't want the taxes, and some of the stuff the newer trucks have, like ABS. During hurricane Floyd, I had to drive through some flooded areas a couple were deep enough the tailpipe was imitation a motorboat, one was damn near to the headlights as there is a creek and a bunch of drainage ditches in Newport News and Hampton that during this storm, pretty well cut the peninsula in half. The end result was a year later my son was on his way to Norfolk, and the left rear wheel inner bearing locked up and spun on the axle tube. I was able to repair the tube well enough to get a new bearing and $40 seal on, but had to usually replace it every year and clean out the drum. Again, later axles 198 up fit, but have the rear ABS sensor. The end result, I bought a 1990 parts truck, giving me an EFI system, E4OD transmission and decent front sheet metal. I was contacted by a friend who at the time worked for a local junkyard about helping another man who worked there with an electrical problem on his show truck. One thing led to another and the 1996 interior, the Alcoa rims, a later rear axle and numerous other things have come from this relationship. I am currently repairing some things (started as fix what shorted) on his late father's Chevstang (1967 Mustang convertible originally a 6 cyl. now an LT1 and 4L60E). Friends like that you will do things for. I added the remote keyless entry system and one touch down power driver's window system for convenience also the auto dimming day/night mirror with compass. The 1986 crew cabs only had power front windows and locks as an option, Darth lacked these. HVAC is updated to a 1996 system, even though the old system was successfully converted to R134a. The end result I am happy with, I have a number of not available options that make him nicer to drive, improved my fuel economy by over 20% and still have plenty of power for hauling, towing or a combination of both. The Lincoln Continental power buckets are extremely comfortable.

Welcome to the group. Nice looking truck sir! If you need one I think I still have an extra left over from my son's 86 F150 5.0L, I have no use for it. He used to bring it to Carlisle for the Ford events and last few years has driven his Excursion.

I have to go put my hands on it first, then I will pack it, an EEC-V box and the shims/washers I have here.

Gary, he will need the 85 information, I believe the 85 has one more relay and I think that was supplying 12V to the tank selector valve. You might even want to set up a section just on the hot fuel handling package since there were 3 or 4 different circuits used over the years.

Later style all together, my system came out of a 1996 model. Main reason was larger evaporator and factory insulated case.

Ok, let me see what I have that I didn't split to get the wiring out of it.

Try taking your carbureted engine up to about 5000 feet elevation and see how much different it runs, granted, you have one of the best carburetors made for a Ford engine, the annular boosters provide the best distribution possible. Take a vehicle jetted for sea level and take it up to Denver say, it will be rich, take a vehicle set up for Denver and bring it to sea level, it will be lean enough to probably misfire. Fuel injection systems read the Manifold Absolute Pressure, or Mass Air Flow and adjust the mixture and spark advance as needed. Detroit was late to the party, many European cars had it for years before, at least Ford didn't piddle with the TBI systems much, pretty well went right to port injection, cars were sequential and some were Mass Air as early as 1989, trucks used a bank fired system as the emission requirements were less strict for them.

The ones you will not have for certain will be for injectors 3-8, but if Ray sends what he has then if it is an SEFI harness you will have most of it. Do I need to find my 1996 EVTM and scan it for you?

Going back through and catching some of the missed posts (this is taking on a mind of it's own) I will send you one to start with and drop the core support stuff I have in with it. Color, whatever looks like the original is fine, of coater's choice even.

Gary, Adam is a great guy, he spent quite a bit of time with me teaching me how to use BE and flash the EEC after the tune has been written and saved. If you snag an extra 104 pin connector and OBD-II port (it can be off anything with an EEC-V system) I will send you the diagram for my bench flashing setup. Works great and allows me to pre-load a spare EEC box so if one fails on me all I have to do is swap it. Using the 1992-97 PDC, there is a maxi fuse that feeds the EEC keep alive memory circuit so it can be pulled in order to change an EEC without damaging it or erasing all the radio memory and having to reset the clock.

Can't help on the defroster duct, mine was changed to the later system several years ago. On the electrical, I have been slowly getting up a list of Ford PNs for connector parts and if available the aftermarket PNs that coincide with the Ford numbers. Anytime I disassemble a parts vehicle, be it Ford, GM or Chrysler I save the harnesses and if I do not need them, strip them of connectors and pull out the longer wires and roll them up so I have the needed colors to extend or repair sections.

Ok, I will send them, I believe I can email you through here, if not I will let you know.

Right now the 15th, 23rd and 29th of November. 15th is dog grooming, 23rd is Thanksgiving Day, 29th I have a Drs appointment at 10:00 AM in Onley VA.

Ok, that checks with my list as being ML1-441 which should be E4OD. Simple comparison, I know which code is E4OD for the 460, it is ML1-441. I have several lists I have scrounged, if you like I can send them to you, they are in Excel format and several of them were provided by Adam Marrer to aid in locating compatible EEC-V boxes.

I have been a member of EECtuning.org for quite a while, since I first started to plan the EFI conversion on Darth. Lots of good information there. Moates makes excellent hardware and supports it very well from what I have found. There is also a TwEECer group on Yahoo, for use and help with the TwEECer piggy back tuner for the EEC-IV (it is supposed to work on the EEC-V, but I never got mine to work and traded it to a gentleman on the West coast for a complete intake system for the MAF 460).

Jim, we have already discussed delivery of my parts, and I will gladly pay for your fuel cost down to Dover DE and probably buy you lunch or dinner depending on time of day. At least Dover seems to be a reasonable location once your sister is ready for you to do her repairs.

Ahh, understood, probably an EEC-III system, real nightmare to work on, no real diagnostic connector and on a V8 the strangest distributor cap and rotor you have ever seen, used a special 3 plug DS module and a crank trigger. What diameter is the hole in the floor?