85lebaront2

Sounds like Gary, you are slowly peeling the onion layer by layer. My 86 came with the aluminum plates, extruded with ribs on the back, all 4 doors.

Probably will be, from either truck, upper plenum and throttle body for the 408 EFI along with distributor, and TFI module. If it is an early production 1990 it will have the oil cooler setup I have which will be great for Big Blue. Too bad it's still halfway across the country, front sheet metal looks to be in decent shape. Maybe just yank the 460 and stick it somewhere for parts (some will fit on Darth, some for your 408 EFI). Computer, probably no good for you, but if you pull the front doghouse complete to facilitate the powertrain removal, everything plugs in. Save the wiring you can, it will help later. You will need to find a 1996/7 OBS truck with an EEC-V system for the front harness (which gives you the nice PDC I have) in order to get the OBD-II port and 104 pin EEC connector. You can get the stuff from a car or E series, but all that will do is give you the 104 pin connector and OBD-II port and the wiring is different on the cars. 1987-91 trucks used a round connector on the driver's side, again, if he still has them, the factory tanks should go right on Dad's and have the proper fuel lines to get to the top of the engine (I can't believe you aren't going to use a Carterbrock )

1990 E4OD is what I have, harnesses on the pre-1992 trucks use a bunch of various color round 8 pin connectors for the engine, transmission and rear chassis harness. Engine differences, heads are the biggest difference, EFI 460s used E7TZ heads from 1988-1992, after that they went to F3TZ heads which flow better. Transfer case, don't know, shifter, you can probably use the column as is, just change the switch wiring, 1990 has a dash mounted OD switch. The 1990 is a linkage shifter setup and should drop in. Crossmember, probably fit. Is 1990 still a TTB setup? might be good parts for Big Blue. I have the mating front harness for plugs if needed.

From what I have seen, propane fueled engines run very clean and last quite well. Years ago I drove a GMC pickup, V6, 4 speed Hydra-Matic and running on propane, it was loaned to us for use taking our scout troop to a campout.

Not the engine, his electronics, he is using a Mustang EEC-IV MAF system and the infamous "salt and pepper shaker" connectors, two connectors, one white and one black that tie the engine harness to the body harness and are famous for bad connections. The EEC-V processor you need will have a hardware code of ML1-441, this is V8 w/E4OD, easily found in 1996-7 trucks with 351 and E4OD, including E series, I can give you a list of catch codes, but the ML1-441 hardware code is all you really need. The truck Chad Meador has is a 460 SD system but does have the E4OD and 4WD system.

Yes, the speedo cable sensor combo was what the 90 F250 used.

Gary, I have several spares, and if I am going on a long run with my 21 year old Ford PCM, I can carry a pre-flashed spare. I am using the EEC-V units which are OBD-II compliant and can be flashed through the OBD-II port, as for Dan Lee, I know him, he and I had a long back and forth about using a diesel TCM to control the E4OD in his 1983 F150 5.0L truck. We have also had some discussion about problems with his 434 Tim Meyer engine. He just lives in Dover DE. If you want to get into EFI on Dad's truck, and use the EEC-V system, we will need to get some outside assistance as far as some tokens to do the initial "crack" of the Ford programming, once that is done, I can reflash until the nether regions freeze over, oh wait, that has already happened twice, when Chevy and Toyota formed NUMMI and again when NNS and Electric Boat started the Virginia class subs. The group is called Core Tuning, Adam Marrer, Ben Head and Clint Garrity are the individuals, Ben is in Oklahoma City, Adam in Rochester NY and Clint in Dixon CA. The software is Binary Editor and it runs in Windows.

On the controller you will be using, I assume your speedometer cable comes off the transfer case output, a speed sensor like the one on the side of my extension housing will provide the needed signal, but, on the 4WD trucks, there is a wire to tell the computer you are in Low range, on the ones with the rear axle speed sensor, it simply tells the transmission to start an upshift sooner so you do not over rev the engine, on an output shaft sensor, it should do the same to anticipate rapider "wind up" in Low range.

I emailed you some pictures and measurements this morning, the transfer case shifter attaches to the side of the E4OD. You can probably find some PNs in the parts CD as the E4OD came out in 88 or 89.

I used a 4lb ball peen to knock it loose, same to reinstall it. You have to look at the way the frame slants, it has to go forward if I remember (it's been 18 years since I last saw that truck when my son and I changed the heads on the 390 in Texas).

Been there, done that, I had a 1977 I put a 390 in (didn't want a damn 400) and C6. I never took the radius arm brackets completely off, just the attachment to the crossmember, you smack it with a hammer and it pops out, then same to get it back in. This was from my transmission shop buddy in Newport News.

Pete, I had the issue on my "Fiat", a 1986 LeBaron konvertible, I wanted a short 8" or so, positive cable to go from the battery to the 1996 Stratus Power Distribution Center, shortest anyone had in red was 18" so I had to get a black one. As for "real parts stores" here, maybe NAPA, but they rarely have anything I am looking for and are a good hour round trip. The one nearest me went to Parts Master about 2 years ago and I am exceedingly careful what I buy there. That is where I got the cable for the "Fiat", but since it goes to a nice red capped post marked as the positive jump start point, I don't think it will be a problem. Funny story, when my daughter was in college, she had a 1975 Pinto Pony MPG, with the recall shield already installed. She left the dome light on when she got a speeding ticket on the way back to Radford University. When she found the car was dead, she asked an engineering student from VA Tech which is almost next door to help her jump it. Pinto battery was right front, starter relay on the right rear on the firewall. PO had replaced the original ground cable with a Carol one, bright red of course. Tech student started to hook the positive to the red cable and when Donna questioned him, his reaction was "what do you know, you're a girl". She waited till we came up two weeks later, she had enough knowledge from all the Fords we had that the wire to the relay was positive.

Pete, one item to consider, the cowl vent grille on the 1980 - 86 models has some fairly large holes in it, leaves will fall in there along with other small items. In 1987 through the 1991 models, the shape is the same but the holes are a bunch of probably 3/16-1/4" holes and the crap build up in the bottom of the air boxes is much lower and seems to self clear (I have a 1990 front end on Darth and during a hard rain, or if I hose the cowl area down, water pours out of the area behind the fenders). I took some plastic screen material on a Chevy van I was fixing as it had the same kind of crap in the air boxes, I laid it under the cowl cover and leaves can still fall on it, but blow off with no problem.

They are behind the kick panels. If you have no A/C the vents occupy that location.

Gary, the donor was a 1990 F250. I would look for a Bronco or F150 with a 351 or even the 300 could have the E4OD (300s low end torque was too much for the AOD and it's electronic clones). Some 302 Broncos had E4ODs in them. I have a friend in one of the FB Ford truck groups who said remind him Monday and he will get pictures and measurements off his truck. FWIW, the C6 flex plate is what fits an E4OD converter.

The stock E4OD crossmembers are offset to one side, just like the engines are. Mine has a dip and a special gusset on the right side to clear the double exhaust pipes. Left side is the standard angled gusset.

I think whoever was supposed to be sealing the right side area was permanently out to lunch during the 80s, Darth had a completely unsealed area in the right airbox causing a leak from the seam that ran down under the carpet and rusted the floor though.

The reason I asked was the output shaft comes with either an 8 or 9 tooth drive gear machined into it. The E4OD is only 3" longer than a C6, but the mount pad is 7" further back from the front than a C6, something you will need to allow for in your frame preparation.

Here we go again.

Couple of questions, which truck is it going in and what gears are in it?

Ok, you do not have a 460 pattern E4OD of any kind, do you want me to see If I can locate one near me? I know where one is, and tried to talk to the guy about a price, I don't think it's a 4WD version, but during a full rebuild the output shaft can be changed. If you are looking it will need provision for the speedometer drive, even if it is plugged right now, as for price, some of it will be based on what year we start with and what updates are needed. Labor, figure @ $75/hr $800.00 Looking at parts prices, it will be cheaper if you can find a 4WD one.

I could, do you have one already or do you need to locate one? I assume it will be for 4WD and it will need a speedometer drive gear and place for a driven one since it will be going in Dad's truck. E4OD needs a speed signal either from a sensor on the speedometer cable (usually at the transmission end) or through the PSOM on the 1992-97 models.

Gary, too bad you are clear out there, I build my own transmissions, and did an E4OD for a local shop that took it in and then found they had no one who could build it. This was a shop in Hampton VA. Biggest thing, is whoever does it needs to install all the updates and be sure the solenoid pack is compatible with the controller you are going to use. Early packs have the surge diodes in them, 1995 and newer they were moved to the PCM. Early works with later PCMs, but late will not work with early PCMs. As long as the controller has the surge diodes, then there is no problem.

It will still try to draw from the truck battery or batteries. Cutoff relay allows only the battery on the trailer to be used, but will resume charging if the truck is running as soon as the winch is off.

Try this again, On the battery charge/winch system, the winch will draw probably 50-60 amps possibly more. The charging circuit will either trip the breakers or blow the fuse. I told a friend to use a cutoff relay so when the winch is activated, the charging circuit is shut off.