85lebaront2

Couldn't you use the factory 460 perches and stock mounts with the adapters? The mounts sit low enough they have to come off in order to remove the pan.

That was the point I was making, that loading one backwards, unless it is rear engined (we always load Corvairs that way) can make it very hard to control.

The gentleman who built my engine told me the real reason the 460s weren't popular in stern drives was the torque, they could blow the upper gear box right off the drive, they had to put gear boxes for deisels on them, one for a 454 would explode with a 460.

Let's see, 1978 F250, 6 cyl, 4 speed 4WD on a friend's trailer using his E150 6 cyl C6 to tow it. Truck had to go on backwards due to width difference between front and rear. Best we could do was 35 mph before the tail started wagging the dog. We were taking the boy scout camp's truck to rebuild the front end and replace the doors with old ones from my 77 F150.

Gary, that trailer may have had either no suspension, or like a friend's trailer, torsion bars or rubber springs which do not have the equalizer between the axles. On the dovetail, I never really cared for them, because if you are hauling something long (like a crew cab long bed truck) the rear wheels either end up on the slope or very close and it limits the adjustment range if the vehicle is nose heavy (like truck with a 460 or Diesel). Winch, maybe a high and low mount point so you can still load something with low ground clearance. FWIW, my 5th wheel had a maximum gross weight of 10,000 lbs, which meant the axles were at least 5000 lb capacity, it used 6 lug 15" wheels and used LR E, I believe, trailer tires. It also had brakes on both axles. One thing you will want, a way to either cut off the brakes or sharply reduce the power to them empty otherwise you will flat spot the tires in a hard stop.

Jim, the hole I highlighted, is not tapped larger on EFI heads, but is on carbureted heads. I highlighted that for reference as to which one was different. When I first installed the EFI mounting brackets I had to enlarge the hole in the A/C and PS side so I could use a 1/2-13 bolt there. The brackets in the picture are an extra set I purchased off a blown up 460 so I could have them cleaned, clear coated and pre-mounted to the new engine.

Ok, for the edification of all, here are some pictures, I used my new engine on the stand, but also have some pictures of the EFI accessories and brackets on the carbureted engine.Lower front of engine Front, no brackets Front with brackets EFI AC bracket on carbureted head

Gary, every 300 I have worked on had 3 bolts holding the intake and exhaust together. The HD 300 in the 1970 F-600 dump truck we had at scout camp had the 3 bolt exhaust pipe flange. I am pretty sure it had 3 bolts, and I believe two were one direction and one the other.

Damn, I used to get that towing with Darth at 65-70 mph.

If he's lucky that dog won't drop it's transmission before he gets there.

All I can say is "buyer beware", you better take a good look at the box, even NAPA, who used to have good quality now sells Chinese relays for Fords. I would rather take a chance on a decent junkyard Ford part than a new Chinese one.

Gee are you telling me that I can't put EFI accessory brackets on a carbureted 460? I'm glad you told me, because I guess maybe I'm like a bumblebee, NASA proved that there is no way a bumblebee can fly, the wings are too small for the body weight, but the bumblebee doesn't know that so just bumbles along oblivious to that fact. When I started the process of converting my 1986 F350 from carbureted with a C6 transmission to MAF/SEFI and an E4OD transmission, I decided to do the A/C system and other accessories first so things would be fitted in place. I ran the truck for a couple of months with the FS-10 compressor, the high mount alternator and non-adjustable power steering pump mount. I had to enlarge the bottom inside hole in the A/C and power steering bracket casting so I could use a 1/2" bolt there. I also found a slight interference with the lower air pump and alternator bracket and the timing pointer. Since my truck had the hot fuel handling package there was no mechanical pump, just a block off plate on the timing cover, I went ahead and just put the EFI timing cover on at that time. I used a Y in the line from the EFI air pump to connect where my two original pumps had been. Eventually, I installed the whole top of the EFI engine on my short block, unfortunately it only has about 8:1 compression due to having the deep dished pistons and large combustion chambers (that is to be remedied shortly I hope).

Considering that Darth can light all 4 rear tires with a very low compression (right now) 460 and 3:55 gears, I would say you shouldn't have too much problem with power. As for header clearance, ask Gary about long tube headers on a 4WD 460.

Externally, the differences will be fuel pump, EFI timing cover has no provision for a mechanical pump, pad is there, but is unfinished and no opening to the inside. Water pump, 85 and 89 are the same PN, accessory brackets, front of driver's side head on carbureted engine has 1 1/2" bolt hole, EFI has a 7/16" bolt hole in the same location. Timing pointer (and possibly cover) on EFI engine is curved to clear the lower mounting point on the alternator/air pump bracket. Belts, as long as you use all of the pulleys and belts as a set (crank, water pump, power steering, A/C and alternator) you won't have any problem with stuff fitting, alternators are the same, just different positions and the back may need to be rotated. Power steering pumps, if the EFI engine has the Saginaw pump then the Ford pump will not fit the bracket, A lot of it depends on how the EFI engine was originally set up when it was installed in the F150.

First, I don't know where your mechanic got the compression figures, the 85 engine unless it has been redone is 8.5:1 compression, the 89 is maybe 8.7:1 compression. I assume you converted the 89 engine to carbureted, or you had the entire EFI system installed. If the 89 engine was already converted to carbureted the biggest issue you will run into is the exhaust, the manifold outlets on the EFI engine are angled differently than the carbureted engine ones (ask me how I know this) meaning you would either need part of the exhaust system you have in the F150 or would need a new front section made (exhaust on the crew cab is in 3 sections).

Engine *out* is about the only way I'd want to change them. There is close to 800 lbs less weighing down on them (if you count the radiator/coolant, and the Zf being up on a jack) ... and I'll have access to both sides. Jim, last time I looked, the 460 weight was given at 865 lbs, assuming that is the carbureted version with iron intake, even the EFI wouldn't be much less. As for Darth, I had ordered what NPD listed as a complete lock set for a 1996 F-series since that is what the column and door locks came from. When I received it, the ignition lock was fine, door locks?? Maybe an E-series, anyway I sent them back. The reason for wanting to change them, I only had one key (not original) when I got them and the local ACE hardware's key machine cuts roughly 1/32" short so a key they make needs to be pulled back a little to work. After sending them back I called Kool Ford with the code on the ignition lock, they could not find that listed anywhere. I took the key and Darth up there and had him make me one new Ford key from the best side of the copy I had, worked perfectly! I told him go do one more, paid for them and now have two nice Ford keys.

Just reinforces my feeling that Ford's entire engineering department must have either walked out when Lee Iaccoca left or was smoking some dynomite sheet then, especially the electrical group.

Gary, on Darth, the NSS was on the side of the C6, between the shift lever and the downshift lever. Older models with the FMX had it on the column as there was no place on an FMX, Castr Iron Cruise-O-Matic or Ford-O-Matic for one, C4s used essentially the same switch, the AOD has a plunger switch in the case. Yes, the key mechanism is mechanically interlocked, but the NSS also controls the back up lights, and shifters can get out of adjustment. FWIW, I had a good friend that was killed by his wife's Explorer he was working on for his granddaughter. He thought the NSS was bad and was underneath jumping the starter, switch was good, Explorer was in reverse and backed of the ramps crushing his chest when he tried to roll out from under it as it started moving.

Same thing on my Chrysler LeBaron convertible, it has a burgundy or maroon interior color, burgundy is what the code comes up as.

Makes me so damn glad I don't have to deal with that crap!

FWIW, Our government decreed starting in 1968 that any non-mechanical system (vacuum or electric control) is supposed to default to defrost if the controls, in this case vacuum, aren't working, most likely place to look is the fresh air/recirc vacuum actuator in the right rear corner of the engine compartment, the two lines there, one black and one white, get brittle and crack.

Did you take it straight to the local pound, isn't that where abandoned dogs go ? Or maybe the junkyard?

Things like hauling a loaded Chevy G30 and trailer behind Darth on a tow dolly? Or the big flat bed trailer with the doors and operators plus a load in the bed? Darth did come out of OD going up the CBBT tunnels, but still maintained 54 mph @ 2200 rpm in 3rd lockup, probably could have gone faster but didn't want to force the downshift to 2nd.

Sounds good, I was trying to see exactly where the torque peak came in, looks like is still down low where you want it for a truck engine. Today, I took Darth to the exhaust shop up the road, seems the pipes that were put on replacing the original 3 piece system 20 years ago had some pinholes in them. Muffler is still the original from 1986, guy said it's fine, I wouldn't mess with it.

Post had gone into the black hole. If you can see it, it shows "85lebaront2" in the upper right, but says I need to login??? Is Joe Lucas in any way connected with Nabble?