FuzzFace2

Yes just on my phone and every time I try to reply to a post on it. When on my PC like now no issues at all to reply to a post. Did not know if others ran into the same thing or not? Dave ----

I was trying to find the right place to post this and this looks as good as any place. When on my phone I am logged in as I see some posts marked as read and it has at the top "FuzzFace2". The issue is when I want to post a reply I type out the reply and when I hit send a log in screen pops up. Is that normal for this site or am I special and it's just me? Dave ----

Ok now I know why that screw is in the picture, it goes into the rear cross brace/sill. I need a picture of the left front bolts in front of the wheel hump. I am told there are 5 bolts 2 of witch hold a plate. If you still have that plate can you tell me what it does? Thanks Dave ----

It does help. I see 5 bolts & think 1 screw on the left side and 3 bolts on the right? Is there a screw in the corner on the right side I can see? I think the 2 of the 5 on the left hole a plate in place on the under side, do you know what this plate is for? Once I know what that plate is for I may just do 3 bolts on each side as I am not using wood for the floor. Thanks Dave ----

During the week I was able to pickup some vacuum fittings needed to hook up the air filter breather to the valve cover so got that done and the air filter back on the motor. I prepped the metal I will weld to the front panel lower edge. Went to hit it with weld thru primer and the new can would not spray :( going to have to see if I can pick some up during the week. A member needed pictures of the clips & screws that hold the trans cover to the floor and I had them sitting in a cup. After taking pictures I installed them on the truck and the cover after a little hammer & dolly work. It will have to come off again as I did not get weather strip to seal it yet. Cleaned off my work room table so I have room to work on the dash bezels and gauge clusters. In doing so got the parts out of the dinning room to make the wife happy. Dave ---- ps: pulled apart that AMP gauge the stud twisted on and sure enough the wire was broken. I am going to try and fix it and if it does not work oh well it was junk any way.

Thanks I know the lower plates also have a lip I will have to deal with too. As you can see I don't have much to go by in making the upper side lip that can be seen. Thanks again Dave ----

The rods do not need to get "rained on" or wet to be no good. It is the moister in the air that the rods pull the water from. That is why once the tin is opened they should go into a air tight container or be used fast before they pull the moister in. Some from the middle of the pack to the bottom "might" be ok to use as the moister may not have gotten to them other than the ends where the wire hooks to. Dave ----

I wonder if you could bake the rods to make them usable? I have not been around that type of welding in a l o n g time to remember if you can or not. If water made them junk I also wonder if you were to soak them in water if it would come off? Dave ----

On the side panels the lip the bolts go thru into the wood. This is 1 of the front lips I have to replace / make. The other front one I have to replace / make. The rear lips don't look too bad but need work too. It is mainly the front lips I need a picture of so I can see how many and where the holes are. And yes I still need this information. Dave ----

Thanks guys on the job done. As for the holes I do have a spoon but have not used it yet. I did use a copper sheet before and was not happy how it worked so I hope the thicker spoon will be better. I don't have welding gas so no brazing. Would also need a small tip torch to keep the heat local and not warp the metal. Bigger holes I have used solid rod and welded with my MIG. Used a cut off wheel to cut the rod and did the same on the next hole. I think the holes I can get to the back side I will try the spoon. Starting on the outer edge of the hole and working to the center to fill it. Will try the same on the others too. Dave ----

Yes, that is correct. The PCV valve is connected to manifold vacuum, and the top port will suck the fuel vapors trapped in the charcoal canister through the canister purge valve and into the intake manifold for burning. Yes, the thermostatic vacuum bowl vent valve (1984/1985) should be OPEN when the engine is off. (You should be able to blow through it.) The valve should close when manifold vacuum is present. This is the valve that whisler has. Now, if you have an earlier thermal vent valve (1980 - 1982), it will be CLOSED when the temperature is cooler and open when temperature is warmer. This valve is green and yellow or white and black and is independent - it will not have any sort of vacuum control or electric control at all. * 1980/1981: A thermal vent valve is inserted in the fuel bowl vapor hose that opens when the temperature is warm. This provides a clear, open path for excessive fuel vapors from the fuel bowl to be routed away from the air cleaner and into the charcoal canister. carb bowl vent> hose> thermal vent valve> hose to canister. * If you still have the stock valve that came on your truck, this is what you have. Unless it is warm, you should NOT be able to blow air through it. 1982 - 1983: Ford added an electric bowl vent solenoid in the fuel bowl vapor hose that is activated when the engine starts to block off the external bowl vent anytime the engine is running. carb bowl vent> hose> thermal vent valve> hose> bowl vent solenoid> hose to canister. 1984 - 1986: Ford combined the thermal vent valve and the bowl vent solenoid into one vacuum-operated device called a thermostatic vacuum bowl vent valve. carb bowl vent> hose> thermostatic vacuum bowl vent valve> hose to canister. The external bowl vent is there to release excess fuel vapors and route them away from the air cleaner and into the charcoal canister. Without it, or if it is blocked off, the excessive fuel vapors generated from a hot engine that has been shut off will collect inside the air cleaner. This will create an overly rich mixture, and hard hot starts can occur. Capiche? Well based on your post it may be the right TVV for the year truck as I could not blow thru it. I am going to play it by ear and if I have a hard start hot issue I will look at this as a cause. Thanks for the lesson Dave ----

No rush as I most likely will not be getting to the truck till next weekend. Besides I am sure I can find other thing to do on the truck. Thanks Dave ----

You can get a lot done when you cant sleep and hit the garage at 2am! Yesterday I picked up vacuum hose and fittings so today I got the vacuum lines run. I need to swap 2 lines for the air filter snorkel and will do that when I pull it to take it to the parts store to show them the breather they sold me there is no way the clip fits to hold it in place. I also need to pickup the little 90* fitting that fits on the breather the hose goes on and a grommet and fitting for the valve cover. Then on to the bed rear panel & floor. Welded them and ground down the welds. It is done so if I want to install the stock tail gate I can with out needing to redo the area if I left the floor over hang like I was thinking of doing. Then moved on to the front panel. The bottom was rusted away and because I am using the style side floor I sits higher so it had to be trimmed shorter anyway. I had to trim off a little more to get all the bad part gone but it worked out good for the part I was going to use to add the bottom lip back. You ask what am I going to use for the bottom lip? One of the style side floor cross beams I had to remove when I shorten the bed floor. It is heavy gauge like the front panel so welding it should not be bad. The holes in the lip to the floor will be welded up and new holes drilled as they do not line up to the ribs on the floor as you will see in the last picture. The front panel is bolted to the sides. The light color between the ribbed floor & dark front panel is the lip I made from the cross beam. I is just sitting there as it needs a little more fine tuning. Quitting time was 3pm made for a long day. Dave ----

I am getting close to fixing the lips on the bed side panels and the bed front panel. On the side panels I need to know on the lip in front of the wheel hump how long is this lip, does it go to the end of the bed side panel? A little piece I still have it looks like it did go to the end of the panel? How many bolts are in that lip thru the floor? I also need to know how far from the end is the first bolt? I don't think it is at the end, thru the side panel & the front panel, as it would be in the way for the lower bolt going thru the side On the front panel how many bolts are thru the lip at the floor? How far from either end (side panels) is the bolt(s)? Again I don't think at the end as it would be in the way for the lower bolt going thru the side? Thanks for any help you can give. Dave ----

That does help I think I have to switch the hoses on the Bi Metal switch but other wise I did it right. I just cant see it working if I could not blow thru the switches........then again I may not of had enough hot air I will have to check this when I get her running to see if it works as it should. Any ideal how to do this? Cell phone set to record and placed so it can see the valve? Dave ----

So it is busted and I cant even send it to Rocketman because it is broken Well at least it will still charge So this shunt thing looks best to mess with when the 3G is installed and go with a Rocketman meter at the same time. Something else to be added to the 3G swap I guess Dave ----

Got it! I plumbed this up this morning (2am could not sleep) and the way I did it was. carb bowl vent> hose> valve with "carb" pointing to carb> hose to canister. This hose stock had a "T" and based on the sticker on the radiator support went to the PCV upper nipple so that is how I ran it. Now this valve with "carb" on it, I could not blow air thru it from either side so I took it apart. It looked clean inside so I put it back together and installed it. So the way I see it with motor off no flow, you say it should? I am not too worried on the carb side as it has a bowl vent under the filter assy. so fumes should stay there. The tanks go to the canisters and when the motor is running should get pulled in and burned. Also because they are in a closed system I should not get any fumes from that when the motor is off either....I hope lol. If you could not tell I did not want to smell gas fumes and figured if I was going to do this might try and do it some what right I also found on the air filter snorkel door valve the nipple was large and the hose that fit that nippl was to loose on the Bi Metal valve on the filter floor. So I ran it to one of the valves (TVS) on the side as it has a large & small nipple. From the TVS to the Bi Metal switch then to the intake manifold. None of the valves I used let air pass thru when I tried to blow thru them so how will the door close off cool air and open the warm air as the door is N.O. to cold air/N.C.to warm air. The temp in the garage was high 40's so I would think the valves would let air pass thru no? Dave ----

That is a thought but I would like to wash the 36+ years of dirt off the back side of the cluster. That was 1 reason I started with the cluster that came out of the project truck as from what I remember none of the gauges worked, it had been pulled apart once before and it had black paint all over it so if I broke it no big loss. It looked like this one I pulled apart as the guinea pig the AMP gauge had a little heat to it. I think that is why the stud was spinning, it heated the white plastic that holds the stud and cracked letting the stud spin. I may take Gary's advice and paint the needles in the housing to be safe. Then again this time I will use a wrench, not a socket, so I can see if the stud starts to spin to stop and rethink the whole thing. So right now I think am good on the amp gauge & film. If that changes I will let you know. Thanks. I do have a question on the AMP gauge? If the stud does spin and it breaks the connection inside what will happen? Will it not charge, no power to the truck or ? I ask because from what I seen posted they hardly move to show anything and if I was to go with a 3G ALT it has to be by passed IIRC. I also remember a post of someone redoing the AMP gauge to show volts (with the AMP gauge face) but don't remember what else needed to be done to run that volt gauge? Just trying to think of all my options. Thanks guys Dave ----

Well it put her a little over the edge when I put the only part I did not wash yet on the dining room table and that was a gauge cluster. Hope to get it washed and needles painted and back together and everything back to my garage tomorrow. I have been getting up early each day but hard to get out to the garage after last weekends blast. Hit the auto parts store for vacuum hose and "T" fittings to run the vacuum lines. Pulled apart the gauge cluster from my truck for washing along with all the bezels and washed them. On the cluster I think the AMP gauge broke as 1 of the nuts kept spinning the stud so if it is connected to anything inside it is not now. Also doing that the connection film twisted off and was a little pissed till I put the cluster back together so parts were protected till I can paint the needles and found the cluster plug contacts are all pulled away from the film so I was not as pissed on the AMP gauge deal. Guess that is why the gauges did not work? Because of that I was a little shy to pull apart the good cluster but will pull it apart for cleaning & paint. Dave ----

Yep happy wife happy life! If I had water in my garage the dash parts would not have been in the house. We don't have any projects that don't take a lot of $$ we don't have at this time. She does volunteer work 1 day during the week (plant a row for the hungry) and Saturdays (pet adoption). It is when she is out is when I sneak things in to wash. This time I did not sneak the parts in. Wait till I set up a table in the living room, no furniture for 2 years now (we don't use the room), to do the dash parts restore......J/K 1 of the 3 cats would knock the parts to the floor lol. Yes it is a 1G. Down the road (far down) I will do a 3G swap but the 1G will have to do for now. If this was the 2G fire starter I would have to rethink the "down the road" part. Dave ----

Not much to show of what I did for getting out there at 5AM. Part of that was it was 30* out side and 34* in my garage. First was to dig out the electric oil radiator heater. It was good to stand over and rest your cold hands on to warm up when ever I walked by for tools. Dug out the batt. that came in the truck from under the work table. Showed about 11 volts so put the charger on it wile I worked on the truck. It is about 2 years old so guess it was put in just before I bought the truck? Finished hooking the ALT had to make 2 jumper wires as the plug on the harness did not match the ALT and I don't have the money for the 3G at this time. Finished running the heater hose so I can fill the cooling system now. Then looked into running vacuum lines and came to a screeching halt when the hose I had was the wrong size to fit what I knew how it went. Looked into how the rest of the vacuum lines should be run and to see what it would take to fix it. This took a lot of time. Looked at radio wire colors for a thread on here. Checked the batt. after it had time to "cool the surface charge" and my late 70's FoxValley meter went up slowly to about 11 then pegged and stayed there when removed from the batt so I freaked me out! I got it to come back to 0 then checked with a DVOM and had 12.54v. I think it was too cold for the FoxValley meter. When it got warmer in the garage I used it again and was fine and also showed 12.5v. Last thing I did was go thru my storage bins and pulled out the gauge clusters and bezels. I want to clean them and check them over to see what parts I will use. Wife was not happy when I came into the house with them. Dave ----

I don't think this had that system but again this was all from my parts truck and the radio/HVAC control panel was removed (partly ripped out) so I don't really know. Dave ----

Are you inside my head Just what I am going to do, I have already spent too much time on this. Yes they are the pictures I found on the CD and how I figured I would run the hose. You are right I don't have the calibration code. When I looked up that valve on ebay it does not fit my truck. Something like 83-91 7.5L v8 in a 250/350. Thanks for the offer. I am going with Pete's post and bypass this control and run it right to a vacuum supply. From the pictures in Gary's post it looks like it hooks to the top port of the PCV. If I find it causes a vacuum leak I can add a restriction as I don't think it needs a lot of "supply" to pull the fumes. Tomorrow I will get some vacuum hoses and "T's" to finish this and the air filter snorkel door. Thanks guy for all the help. Dave G.

Glad to help. I just spent 2 hours looking over the parts CD and my head hurts! I did find some of what I was looking for in section 96 & 96.1. Unless someone can add more to the canister purge I may wing it as I don't have the purge valve (9B963) and could not figure how to find the full PN. I did partly see how it gets plumbed and why the wing it part. I also under stand the meaning (mostly) of the parts/names like VCV and TVS. Would 1 be off the stat housing or could it be 1 of the things on the side of the filter housing?. What do they look like? The fun continues! Dave ----

Gary, Thank you. Air cleaner routing I can now do if I had the hose. Going to have to wait for someone that has played with the canister purge side of this to help out as I am still in left field. I could not find "VCV" in that link. It is in the lower left of my picture. I did see "VCKV" in 2 times (VCKV & V CK V) Thanks for the help Dave ----