FuzzFace2

Gary, I thank you for posting that up. I just don't see where the seal should go. If I knew what they call some of the parts it might help. Gary if you have something better to post when you get back I can wait. I guess it would not hurt to post it up. If nothing else if someone id looking for 350 kingpin info it will be here. Thanks Dave ----

As said I need information for my 81 F100 kingpins. I need to know how they go back together like the order of shims, bearings, seals go. When I pulled the old ones apart there was no way to see how it went and did not know of the seals till I got the new kingpin kit. None of my books show this. An exploded picture would be great as I like pictures. Thanks ahead of time for the help. Dave ----

nor me an expert, but I did stay in a.....sorry My take on this, if the oil & coolant levels are staying the same, getting no codes, and as you pointed out the so called issue could be on the side with out the O2 it may not be picked up by the computer and show codes. I would put a can or 2 of Sea Foam thru it again then 2 or more tanks of straight fuel and then pull the plugs to see what they have to tell you. If all the plugs look good and everything else stays as it is I would just drive it. A little puff of oil smoke at start up I would call normal and condensate smoke till up to temp normal also. Now if motor is up to temp, gone down the road 5 to 10 miles and you stop and it smokes, unless it is cold out I would say it is not normal. But that is going by what I have seen in person and it is hard to say what this is over the internet like now. Dave ----

Thanks guys Yes it was a good feeling even for the short time it ran off the fuel down the carb. When this was all happening I forgot to look at the gauges to see if the oil and tach worked. The key does not return like it should so need to look into that. Hope to do that today if I can get away from family and cooking for a little bit. Dave ----

It looks longer than what is posted and I don't do metric I was thinking with the flat you could grind it down a little and then slide the knob on it just would not be up/down but side to side or left the way it is. Well I tried and will keep looking to see if there is something else comes up. Dave----

Would this switch work better to fit the knob on? Dave ----

SHE LIVES! After hooking up the rag joint for the steering column I installed the batt. and with everything turned off hooked it up and no smoke. Got brave so turned the key on and had 1 dash light on, turned out it was the seat belt light. Got brave II and the motor turned over so the next step was to add a little fuel (lacquer thinner) to the carb and cranked it over and it fired up. I was beyond happy that it fired up. Next step will be to have it run off a jug of fuel as I don't want fuel sitting in the tank(s) till I get it on the road. Dave ----

Any one look over this site for the switch https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250 Dave ----

I would be happy with that MPG on mine. Even the lowest MPG is still better than my DD 02 Durango with 5.9 auto/3.92 gear. BTW what trany, rear gear and tire size you running in that truck and is there any work done to the motor & systems to get that MPG? Dave ----

My father would have said "If that's a complement then I thank you." Seriously though, I have a spreadsheet I'm working on to tell me what sensors and wiring I'll need on a EEC-V system. So, I do see the need for off-line work and documentation. Not really to the truck but for the truck. At 4am I loaded up the 2 spindles & kingpin kit figuring if I got out of work early I could stop by a speed shop, never been in the place, that does race engines to see if they could press out/in the bushings and ream to size. Well I did get out early, I did stop by the speed shop but he told me they do just engine work and did not have to tools to do the job. I was happy he was up front not being able to do the job. I did get a name for another shop that is a machine shop so going to try them first chance I get. Oh at 4am I also checked both dash frames I have, to see if they have the "D" shape hole & slot for the fog light switch and they do. Dave ----

I was looking all over for that as I knew I had seen it some place. I will recheck my work just to make sure. Someone else also said something about the moisture. I did not have that (this time) on metal parts or the cement floor. As for the carbon monoxide reviews from others said they had meters and not once did they sound off and some were in tight buildings. My garage with no insulation, ridge & soffit vents has enough ventilation I was not worried. I hope to hear it run next weekend. That would be the first time since I backed it in the garage back in early Dec 2015. Should be fun to see if we got the wiring right and not to let out the magic smoke Dave ----

Got more done on the truck but not till after getting the heater and a 40# tank setup as it was 30*f in the garage at 6am. Got to say the heater works great! Under a half hour the temp was 40* and going up, oh the OAT was 30*f. I got the garage up to 50*f and cut it off. I did have to turn it back as it did drop back down to 40* and what I was doing was hard with a coat on. Oh the wife came in and asked what it was, I did not tell her I bought it, not too upset. As for the truck it was behind the dash work. First was to figure out the vacuum lines for the factory AC/HVAC system as I had nothing to go by, it was removed before I got the truck. Some hunting and hope I got it right, if not I can get to it thru the radio opening. White goes to the engine bay motor Blue to the single motor in the cab Red to the side of the 2 port motor Yellow to the top of the 2 port motor After getting the vacuum lines and the temp cable hooked to the HVAC control it was fun time to get it up in place. I can see why they cut/broke the dash to get the HVAC panel out. I had to remove the floor duct work to get the panel up into place. When the duct work went back in some of the wiring was in the was so unplug and reroute. I also mounted the gauge cluster then had to pull it later to hook up the speedo cable. With all that done I washed the steering column & wheel and installed it but not with out issues. That is when I found the speedo cable when I hooked up the turn & IGN wires. Then found the turn & IGN wires had to be run a different way so unplug and move them. I had to dig thru my parts bins for parts needed to do all the above and pulled out other part for the next phase. Money shot I laid the dash cover over the dash pad I am working on just to see what it looks like. The cover looks great just a little darker than the dash I painted. Dave ----

OK I got it now So 3 holes in the dash: 1 D shape for the switch 2 for the light bezel that will use speed nuts to hold it to the dash. Now looking at the Ford bezel is the slot wide enough for the switch holding nut so it is not held out away from the main dash front? I say this because it looks like the bezel has a rubber sweeper to hide the switch nut and did not know if the bezel would be held out some by the nut. Or the nut fits from the front side like the wiper/light switch does? It must now that I think of it because from the factory the bezel does not come off the dash as the studs are melted over. Then why the sweep? I know I am over thinking this lol Thanks Dave ----

So this "D" shape hole where is this, on the dash I take it or ? I just can not picture it Now I can see this "D" shape hole as a bracket type thing the switch screws to then it fits up to the back side of the dash. The bezel fits on from the front side, this switch bracket then fits over the 2 studs and all of it gets held to the dash with the 2 speed nuts. Dave ----

I say drive it like you stole it! If all you are doing is letting it idle then the system is not getting up to temp to "boil out" the water in the exh system. I bet all is ok once you get the system hot. Drive it for a week and see how it does. Just keep an eye on the radiator level and oil level. Dave ----

So if I under stand it right there would be 3 holes in the dash. 1 for the switch held on with the ring and 2 for the bezel. Learning all the time. Dave ----

That would be good, that way everything is in 1 place when someone is looking for it like me when the time comes. edit I:It looks like the fog bezel is a little longer than the light/wiper one? edit II: Looking at the back side picture and taking about studs to hold the bezel what holds the switch? Any way someone has a picture of the back side with switch and all? Dave ----

Where on the instrument bezel does it go? Is the bezel made just for the fog lights or can the holes be drilled to fit the fog light switch bezel? Anyone have a picture of one installed? Dave ----

Not to hi jack but anyone know what size the door speakers would be? Would like to get some for my project and want to keep an eye open for them. The seat bottom looks good Thanks Dave ----

There was not much to mine to dig thru. My parts truck only has 1 little rip so I went with it. Dave ----

And you went with the blue ones also? With the ones you went with do you have to watch how they are installed +/- so they will work? When I did LED's on my AMC Javelin they could only go in 1 way to work so I bench tested the cluster and good thing as I had a few that did not work and had to be turned 180*. Did you go with Super Bright's LED's? Have a part number? May get them to have on hand if/when I change them out. Dave ----

Stand up guy is an under statement. Again thank you Jonathan. Just have to figure how the lines get run to what vacuum motors when I get to that point. Gary, Thanks on the gauge looks. At this time I am going with the stock 194 bulbs. As said the filters were in great shape, no frosting at all on them and why I left them. Unlike the ones that came out of my trucks cluster. They were dried out, turning white and some just fell apart as I was removing them from the cluster. If the ones I left in look like the truck was kept in a garage & out of heat and if they were even a little bad they would of been pulled. Now if I feel I don't get the light needed to see the gauges I will pull them and replace the bulbs with 194B (B=blue) as I seen posted. I think going with LEDs they will be too bright and with out work (resistor that you do) or special LED bulbs I would not be able to dim them, time will tell. Dave ---- ps: just got thinking of the HVAC panel lighting. I think 1 of the panels has the light need to see what that is like.

First I must thank member Ford F834 for making time to go to a junk yard for parts I needed for my project. I did not get as much done today as I wanted. Cold, rain/snow, made an old racing injury (shoulder) hurt so bad it was hard to work with 1 arm. Not to say it was 40*f in the garage. It was time to work on the gauge cluster. Of the 2 I had one was not worth the time to fix. It was pulled apart and painted by a PO and not vary good I may say. Paint was all over the clear lens & the light panels above besides me breaking the AMP gauge & film. The picture of the good cluster did not come out but was just dirty and needles needed painting. I pulled it apart for cleaning & painting. I also painted the needles of the bad cluster so I would have extra gauges ready to go if needed. I have to say I was upset with Testors paint I picked up from a local hobby store, could not find them in Walmarts. They did not have a big selection and the ones I brought home were acrylic, did not know till opened, not enamel and not even the right color orange but think they came out good. Part of the "care package" was a tach & film to make it work. I used 1500 grit sand paper to clean all the contacts before putting it back together. Got the cluster all back together and it looks pretty good. I want to replace the bulbs before I install it. I left the colored covers in place as they were is great shape. Some pictures of the bezels I have to work with. First is the painted and I don't know if I can clean it up to use if needed. The XL is wood grain but the radio area is cut up pretty good and think it had the clock? at the top as it is cut out for something. Dave ----

Let's see if this will work. Dave - - - - No it did not, still had to log in to post a reply when on my phone. Was using Googles internet on the phone. I will look for other browsers. Dave ----

Don't be sorry on the reply time there are more important things than this. Ok lets see if I can get this and don't laugh. Phone - Samsung 4G it works (see browser info) OS - Android v5.0.1 Browser - Chrome v62.0.3202.84 Change browser? I don't like change LOL........I will get it a try and report back. Dave ----