FuzzFace2

That works .... but I think the flare side / duel wheel should have a "B" at the end of the part number you have in the text. Or am I reading it wrong? So in short flare side & duel wheel use the same door & plastic box. Thanks Gary Dave ----

The 90* fits on the outside of the air filter housing. This 90* has a flange that the clip holds this 90* and the breather to the main housing. Wish I had a picture and I am sure when see it it will click and that light bulb will go on LOL If you can find one would be nice but don't knock yourself out doing so what I got now is working. Thanks Dave G

I would say little over an hour more work on the 2 fenders, edges & 1 small bondo spot, and I can get primer on them. I will not prim them till the tail gate and/or hood are ready for primer. No need to dirty the spray gun for 2 fenders that will not rust before primed. Dave ----

I asked in another thread if the doors were the same between the styleside and the flareside. The one thing missing from the flareside bed I just bought is the fuel door, so I need to go scrounging for one of those now, and I was curious if they were all the same or not. Looks like not. Thanks Dave. Sorry to say if you need one to fit the flare side opening it has to be a flare side door & plastic box (for a better name) because the screw hole spacing as posted above are different between them. Now I was just thinking I wonder what the DRW trucks use for filler doors? I would guess being fiber glass fenders it would be the flare side doors but then again the fender are bolted to a style side bed so who knows? If I could figure out how to look up parts on the CD I might be able to tell. If you measure the bolts or yours before hitting the JY and find a DRW truck and measure it might be the way to go? Dave ----

Stan has it under control or fakes it real good My brother sent me a flare side part of the fender & filler assy. when he sent the tail gate. A little fiber Glass and it is installed. I have not seen what pipe assy. will work yet but I am sure I can come up with something between the parts I have, style side pipe & hose are the same dia. just different shapes from the flare side parts, and if not a boat shop should have something......I hope. Dave ----

Thanks guys I don't know yet on the hose / pipe from the style side (SS) or using the flare side (FS) stuff. The FS truck came with a hacked up filler pipe & hose. For the front I don't remember what I have used as I had the front & rear from the SS. My brother also sent me the hard pipe and a short part of the rubber hose & inner plastic tube from a FS so I am sure I can come up with something. Now I do know you can not use the SS plastic box that fits on the back side of the fender / bed side or door as the bolt spacing that holds it and the door is different, so I found out, but the hard tube does un-screw from the plastic box. Yes On the door hinge opening from the rear and not the front like it is. If you pull up to the pump for the front tank the nozzle will fit in now on the new door try and fill the rear you have to come in from the back side as the door opens in the way. Look at the fender flat side going farther back now. I did not think of this till it was too late. Besides I think others that have done this had the hinge on the front and never said anything about the nozzle so we will see. I also think the DRW trucks have the hinge on the front so I maybe over thinking this??? Dave ---- Got more done today Pulled the clamps off and glassed the areas I could not with the clamps in place. Wile that set up I spaced out the tail gate hinges, 1 washer between body & hinge worked but I don't like it so going to find flat stock and make a spacer the full size of the hinge base. Back on the fender with the 2nd fuel door, I found another crack so mixed up more rosin when I put a 2nd coat on the door glass. When that set up I mounted fender to the body so it would not move when working on it. I mixed up filler that has fine fiber lass in it for the first coat on the out side of the fender and finished off with normal filler. Also did the cracks on the outside and sanded both fenders down. Have 1 more crack that needs filler and more sanding on the fenders along the edges. As you can see the truck is outside under it's own power. When out I cleaned up the mess and blew the truck off. Dave ----

Dave, I probably have an extra 90* piece. I bought a different breather cap that I like better and it may have one on it. If so, I can send it your way. The ‘78 actually braces to a valve cover bolt. One had a stud u stead of a bolt and the bracket bolted to that with a nut. I think I also bought one of the ones that attaches by the coil just to cover my bases. If your home made bracket does not work I might be able to help. Your canister sure cleaned up nice. I’ve said it before... you do nice work! Thanks on the nice job done and the offer of the parts. The 90* I need is the one that fits on to the breather filter that is inside the filter housing. You stick the breather filter thru the housing slip on this 90* and then slid the clip on as it holds the breather filter & the 90* in place. You then slip the hose on the other end of the 90* and the hose goes to a 90* into a rubber grommet on the valve cover, my cap is just a cap. Valve cover end is good it is the air filter end I need. Dave ----

Check this out http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Flare-side-amp-Style-side-fuel-filler-door-assy-td10571.html Dave ----

I was installing a rear tank filler door assy. to my Flare Side (FS) and was going to use 1 of the door assy. from my Style Side (SS) parts truck and ran into a little issue. This was the first issue I found when mixing parts to hook up the front filler pipe and put a stop on the door install. As you can see the mounting screws between the 2 are different along with the plastic box (see last picture). FS 5-1/8" SS 3-15/16" Found the rest out today, the doors are also different sizes FS 6-1/2"x6-1/4" SS 6-3/16"x6-3/8 And the shape of the doors are also different FS flat SS curved The whole door, plastic box & filler tube assy. I did not keep track of what filler tubes went where on the SS and what I had from the FS was a hacked mess. Dave ----

Here is the door the plastic box and filler pipe. I know the door & box are from a style side I don't remember about the filler but pretty sure it is also from a style side. You can just make out the 4 screws in the box. The box is on the inside of the fender or the inside of outside body panel of a style side. 2 of the 4 screws, other side from the door hinge, hold the box to the body, fender or body panel. You then snake the door hinge in to the box from the outside and the other 2 screws go into the door hinge pulling the box up to the body panel or fender. The filler pipe comes in to the box from the bottom and 3 screws & a ring hold the pipe to the box. As I posted the style side & flare side assy. are different and I will make a post soon of how. Dave ----

Nice score! And a air inlet heat shroud. I got mine thru a member as my truck came with one of them cheap 3" filters on top of the carb. Mine has the 2 valves as it should and I tried to hook it up as per the sticker but will not know if any of it works till I get the truck on the road. I see you also have the bracket that runs down to I think the coil bolt. Mine did not come with it so had to make one out of flat stock that I still need to paint. I also did not get the breather filter or clip & 90* that the hose fits on at the filter end. The filter & clip was easy but could not find the 90* that is held by the clip the hose fits on. Dave ----

Thanks guys I don't know yet on the hose / pipe from the style side (SS) or using the flare side (FS) stuff. The FS truck came with a hacked up filler pipe & hose. For the front I don't remember what I have used as I had the front & rear from the SS. My brother also sent me the hard pipe and a short part of the rubber hose & inner plastic tube from a FS so I am sure I can come up with something. Now I do know you can not use the SS plastic box that fits on the back side of the fender / bed side or door as the bolt spacing that holds it and the door is different, so I found out, but the hard tube does un-screw from the plastic box. Yes On the door hinge opening from the rear and not the front like it is. If you pull up to the pump for the front tank the nozzle will fit in now on the new door try and fill the rear you have to come in from the back side as the door opens in the way. Look at the fender flat side going farther back now. I did not think of this till it was too late. Besides I think others that have done this had the hinge on the front and never said anything about the nozzle so we will see. I also think the DRW trucks have the hinge on the front so I maybe over thinking this??? Dave ----

I learned something new on the letters. Guess it figures as the style side gate is bigger so larger letters. Before I got the tail gate I have I was looking to buy (when I had the money) a replacement that was flat across the back and have the old school FORD scrip decal made to put on it but that all changed now. Dave ----

Thanks guys just want to make sure I did not need new glasses and kept missing where it was located. Email is fine for me too. Thanks again. Dave ----

I think I got my spoon thru Eastwood but thinking a local welding store may have them also. The other thing if you don't have them is pick up a few of them angle magnets (sorry no picture) to hold the metal in place to tack weld. I also have a bunch of different types of welding clamps and long span pipe type clamps. You can just see 2 long reach vice grip C clamps on the left and 1 of the pipe clamps (shorter 1 I have) Dave ----

During the week I checked to see if the rear brake needed adjusting because of the low pedal. Well they were tight and I found 1 wheel had fluid leaking from it. Cleaned it up turn the wheel so the wet part was in a different place and see what will happen. Well today I checked and it was wet again but not as bad so I cleaned it again and sprayed with brake clean. I checked the bleeder & line and both were tight. I will keep an eye on it and if still leaking will have to pull the wheel. Everything is new so I hope the shoes are not wet! I then started on the rear fuel door install in the fender. Now after I got it trimmed and fitted I wondered if the door should open from the front and not the rear? With it opening from the rear like the front does, it may be hard to get the nozzle in to fill. But I could not turn it around because of the way I trimmed the door part so from the rear it is. I went looking for the glass rosin and was out of it but did cut the glass mat and would get the rosin later. So I moved on to the tail gate and did a trial fit. Bed sides were out so had to use a ratchet strap to pull them in some. I also need to shim the hinges out a little and maybe push the rear sill pan in a little to clear the gate & pan at the bottom but other wise looks good. And yes I know the latch is wrong. I then looked in to why the motor had a miss so pulled the plugs and cleaned them as they were black from when the carb was bad before rebuild. I also installed the new cap, rotor and plug wires. She is now hitting on all 6 holes! I even adjusted the carb some, hooked the dist. up to the right port on the carb and put the air filter back on. You know the carb rebuild kit did not come with the gasket for carb to filter! I let it run for a bit and the water temp gauge runs low and not seeing a lot of flow thru the radiator but the hoses are hot. I will replace the stat when I drain the water for the 50/50 mix. Hit the hardware store for washers shims for the tail gate, rosin & cheap brushes, no rosin but AZ had it next door. Back in the garage we mixed up some rosin and started to glass in the door part. I will remove the clamps when it sets up and glass the other areas. The under side This fender also had a few cracks so I glassed them too on the back side. Dave ----

I think the 3 middle cross members are the cheaper ones, it is the front & rear sills that hurt the money pocket. My bed also had drill holes in it. Copper spoon and MIG welder made short order of them. Finish off with a flap wheel and you could never tell there was a hole there. I take it the fenders have the metal lip at the front & rear the fender to bed bolts go thru as I think it was you that asked about them. Did you get the step braces and the fender wheel opening to bed braces? Dave ----

I have not looked for them either and I would never thought the style & flare sides used different type letters Dave ----

Watch out for "NOS" letters. IF they are real NOS from the 80's then pretty good they will not be any good. Over the years with heat and all the glue goes thru the paper so when you try and peel the paper will not come off or it pulls the glue with the paper. Now if they are new and fit like NOS then you should be good to go. Or you could get the NOS and use them as a pattern for the local shop to use to make a set for you. I will be painting my truck shortly and would also like white letters. I have to paint white down the sides and thinking of painting the letters then taping off and painting the red the rest of the truck will be Or get peel n stick letters? Dave ----

You know what is funny, my buddy is getting married Saturday, and he met this girl through an online dating thing. She's Russian, of Mongolian descent, so she is an Asian Russian...of all things... Not a suggestion but a question. Does this site have PM (privet message)? I ask because I was bouncing between 2 sites and had a PM window pop up saying I had a new message but could not find any place on here for them and no new PM on the other site. I think I found where the PM came from, a site I had open on the browser, have like 4 open tabs, but do not go to much. Thanks Dave G.

I take it the spoiler bolts to the bumpers then? Or is it to the bottom of the radiator support? All the spoiler has to do is cut down the air going under the truck or smooth it out. All that turbulence under there hurts MPG. Put a full belly pan under there and see what happens. Dave - - - -

Oh almost forgot I got the tail gate and fuel door from a flare side. I have not forgotten to do a write up on the fuel doors between flare sides & style sides. Chains & latch assy. needs a little cleaning Fuel door that I will graft on to my fender for the rear tank as I have duel tanks now. Dave ----

Picked up another new pump, the 1st was bad out of the box. Got it installed, filled up the small gas jug and a hose from jug to pump. Little juice down the carb and it fired up and ran pretty good for not adjusting the carb yet. Did a quick adjust but think I have a vacuum leak some place as I am not 100% happy on the way the adjustments went. The oil psi gauge now works, was a bad sender and the temp gauge did come up some but did not run motor long. Tach was reading about 1000 but think the motor was lower by sound. Motor also has a little miss and think a plug fouled when the carb was dumping fuel down intake. I know the compression was good before I pulled the truck apart I also have new cap/rotor & wires to install yet. I also put my volt meter on the batt. and as guessed the ALT is not charging. I could have it wired wrong as the truck has a different plug for ALT than the ALT so I made up a short harness. Then again the ALT and/or REG could be bad as I never checked if charging before I pulled the truck apart. BUT IT RUNS! Dave ----

You will need to do some testing. What is the temperature of the coolant? Do you know the stat setting? With out knowing them it is hard to say if the gauge is right or not. Dave - - - -

Well after a day of yard work I got to the hardware store for the screws for the carb. The heads were larger but they just fit and the threads from the sheet metal screws did not get hurt to bad. Carb is back on the motor. Wanted to change to fuel pump before firing the motor backup. It went thru 2 gal of gas the last time and I don't think it should have so thinking pump is letting fuel into the oil. Old pump off motor, gasket cleaned pulled new pump out and see the arm is different. I think no big deal but tried to move the arm by hand to see if it would pump. Good thing as it would not move much, looking inside I see the spring is not seated right and moving the arm it moves around. I also saw the arm was not connected to the diaphragm shaft! New pump is ordered. Got the oil sender changed and was looking over the temp sender when dinner called. Dave ----