FuzzFace2

I did not get that far yesterday to look into the 2 parts in question. It is looking like next weekend till I would be able to check. I did look over the shields that I know will work, the little bit of rot is not bad so I will hit them with a wire brush and paint them when I paint the other rebuilt parts so I have them ready just in case. Thanks Dave G.

I never even thought that I do know the calipers & pads are the same between the 2 trucks. I also know the offset of the 2 rotor/hubs are different as are the spindles to work with the offset. I will clean up & paint the shields that I know will work, the rot is not that bad, so if the good ones will not fit I don't have to stop the job. Will keep you posted. Thanks Dave G.

Gary, that's a good question, why didn't I use your site Great 1 little letter and they may not fit. I will look closer at the 2 parts with out pulling the good ones off to see if I can tell where the difference might be. I am thinking it might be the "off set" as that's why the rotor/hub assy. would not swap over to the other spindles. Thanks for your help Dave G.

First I want to thank everyone for any help you can give. Trucks: 81 F100, 2WD, 4700 GVW,1 has power brakes the other non-power brakes. Disc brake dust shields between the 2 the same? What I tried to look up on my parts CD for the last hour and got lost! I don't know how you guys do it? I think I cam up with main part numbers but not sure. 2K004-RH 2K005-LH Also found man. brakes 80/83 - parts list 15 or 16 power brakes 80/83 - parts list 6 (4600 - 4700 GVW) I don't need to full part numbers just if they are both use the same shields. I don't want to pull the good ones if they will not fit, waste of time I can use doing something else. Thanks again Dave G.

I have also heard the same thing of harsh ride with poly & the noise if not greased on install. Well 4 for poly bushings guess what I will be ordering LOL When you did the bushings just axle or just radius arm or both? My rubber radius arm bushings are like new but being I have it apart again I might just go poly too. Thanks again guys you are the best! Dave ----

During the week I received my brake bleeding tool from my son. It runs off compressed air to create vacuum on the jar and a hose from jar to the bleeder and let her rip. Pedal felt good but would not really know till I have the motor running, power brakes, and can move it to test. Not wanting to do bodywork I working on getting king pin bushing measurements between the 2 sizes I have to see if there is a way to use the DJM small king pin drop beams on a large king pin truck. From what I found you would have to have a custom bushings made to fit the OD large pin spindles but have the small pin ID and turn down the dia. of the large pin to small pin spec as the small pin is 1/4" too short. Might be easier to ask DJM to make a large pin drop beam? That pushed me to work on the front suspension that came from the truck as I needed the axle beams as they have the large king pins needed for the spindles that are needed for the large wheel bolt pattern for my wheels. The only way to get the spring plate nuts off the old parts was using MAP gas and then my impact gun. The other nut holding the radius arm on I used a 20" adjustable wrench to break it loose then the impact gun. I am only using the axle beams and spindles with new king pins, not the springs or radius arms. Will replace the bushings on the beams, clean and paint them before I install back in the truck. With that pulled apart it was time to pull the truck apart. All that cleaning and painting for nothing, well on the beams as I will reuse the springs & radius arms. Spring plate nuts came off easy, the radius arm was another story! Took a 20" adjustable and a 4' pipe to break them loose! Truck pulled apart. The unpainted beams & large pin spindles that I have to make the large king pin spindles work. Have to order bushings and clean, paint before I can install them. Dave ----

The truck is a 1981 F100 4x2 flare side, 300 six & T18, king pin front suspension. The front suspension I had planed on using and was installed had the wrong wheel bolt pattern and because of the king pin size you can not swap spindles with out changing the beams. So the beams I have to use, the axle pivot bushings need to be replaced. So what are peoples thoughts on using stock rubber bushings or polyurethane bushings? If you were going with polyurethane axle pivot bushings do you also go with polyurethane radius arm bushing also or keep them rubber? Or the other way around rubber axle pivot and polyurethane radius arm bushings? Can you mix the rubber & polyurethane radius arm bushings, poly at the front so it will not push back & rubber at the rear so it pivots easier? Thanks for any advice given Dave G.

Bronze not brass what was I thinking My large pin kit I don't remember seeing a steel shell all bronze. Then again I opened the box gave a quick look over and then a few days later handed everything off to the machine shop. It also around the holidays so who knows? Dave ----

They look to be some type of brass mix I am guessing from the color, gold. When the bushings are pressed into the spindles the ID will close up and why they need to be reamed even if you have the right size parts for the beams & spindles. Now turning down of the pin might be tuff as it maybe harden but would not know till a machine shop got a hold of it. Might be easier to ask DJM to make large pin drop beams! Thanks for the help Dave ----

Ok time to pick it up again First I have to say the measurements are vary ruff as my caliper batt was dead and dog foster watching so could not run out and pick one up. First thing I did was pull 1 of the small pin caps that has the grease fitting in it off the truck and tried it on the large pin spindles ........ it was too small and fell right in to the opening. That was not a good sign for what I was thinking. Cleaned some grease from the small pin and took measurement the best I could of the OD of the bushing and came up with 9/16", pin size is 0.862 (rare parts king pin set auto zone) On the large pin bushing OD I came up with 1-3/16", pin size is 1.053 (rare parts king pin set auto zone) That last thing would be Kingpin Length (in): Small pin 6.6875 large pin 6.9375 (rare parts king pin set auto zone) and at .25 difference I think that may be an issue? So the way I see it if you want to use the DJM small pin drop beams on a large king pin truck you would need to find a bushing with and OD of 1-3/16" or little larger and turned down to fit the large pin spindles and an ID of 0.862 or smaller and reamed to fit the small pins. How hard do you think that would be? Oh and turn down a large pin to the small pin size because of the length and hope the pin lock bolt lines up right. Dave G.

I use http://www.plastex.net/ to repair the dash bezel on my 70 AMC Javelin. The lip that screws go thru to hold it to the main frame was missing. I built a mold to make a new lip. The mold Fixed Dave ----

My hand winch is a 2 speed so when something is stuck put it in low and start cranking. I had to hand crank on a full size Chry fury, Blues Brothers car with speaker on roof and all, now that was a heavy car. Dave ----

I think I know what you are talking about even with out a picture. Standard makes crimp on connectors of male & females type. https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Snap-Plugs-Receptacles/Terminals-Wire-Connectors/Electrical/EL600550.lpc If me and did not worry if stock or not I would look into weather pack connectors and replace both sides. https://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-Packs-&-Accessories/p_797633.r_IS1028?&mkwid=sHwH5FKfm&crid=78412949309&mp_kw=delphi%20weather%20pack%20connectors&mp_mt=b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6sv79bD02QIVi0oNCh0ofQ9AEAAYASAAEgL83PD_BwE Dave ----

Put me down for 1 also I was going to send it out to be re-wired for a volt gauge (rocket man) but he will not use it from what I seen on his site. I thought the IVR was held to the body of the cluster with a screw? Is the replacement you got not bolt that way? If so then hot glue works for me. Dave ----

I don't think that Big Blue's 460 will be all that bad on fuel if you keep the speed down and it will have no issues pulling anything. I used a 460/C6 in a 76 E350 to pull a 35'+ 2 car trailer most of the time, once in a wile a 1 car. Yes the 460 liked fuel, duel tanks, but when looking at the weight of the 2 cars & the trailer I don't think it was all that bad. Now for batt. power for the winch, I don't see an issue with the 2 batt. & 1G ALT. Keep the motor running when winching and the amount of driving you will be doing in between winching will re-charge them. Even if you had 1 batt I still don't think it would be an issue just little more work for the ALT sooner than with 2 batt. It might be nice to have the comfort of blue for the drive but you need a real truck like big blue for field work. Oh that C10 will be heavy, I towed one on my trailer with a utility body on it. Dave ---- ps I don't have to worry of power to my trailer mounted winch.......it's a hand winch! Mine is mounted on something like your trailer jack. If you mounted yours there the spare would be in the way.

The thing is I don't have the proper device to muasure with and with the new bushing in the 1 set I don't know if I would be able to measure them right. I will look over the large pin spindles to see if I can get a measurement. Don't want to take the small pin set apart if I don't have to. I have seen I think the small pins used on older trucks when checking auto zone. I will let you know what I find when I get to this part of the project. Thanks Dave - - - -

Both trucks are 1981 F100 Forged axle beam 1 is power brakes the other is not. I would like to mount the non-power brake large pin spindles on the power brake small pin beams using the small pins if the bushing will press into the large spindles. If someone had both pin kit and could measure the OD of the bushings I think that would let us know if it would work. Dave - - - -

They are forged and sorry for not saying that. And thank you for looking this up for me but no rush just something I am thinking of. Dave ----

X2 what he said. So did he say what brush to use? Would a testers model paint brush be good enough? If not then what one and where to get it? Dave ----

I have a few questions on kingpins, spindles & beams. I may know the answer but want to make sure. Has to deal with 80-82 F100/F150 4x2 trucks with king pins. (Mine is an 81 F100) I know there are 2 different size king pins and they seam to be based on power & non-power brakes. Non-power brakes have the larger dia. pins I know between power & non-power brakes the wheel bolt patterns are different. power = 5x4.5, non-power = 5x5 I know between power & non-power brakes rotors / hubs are different. I know between power & non-power brakes the spindles are different because I tried to swap rotors / hubs and find this out. Now what I am not sure on: Are there 2 different beams because of the king pin size based on power / non-power brakes? Any one know the OD of the king pin bushings for the 2 different pin sizes? Or know the ID of the 2 different spindles where the bushing get pressed into? What I am looking to do is use the small king pin kit, small king pin beams and the large king pin spindles so I can run the 5x5 wheels. That is if the small pin bushings will fit / work in the large spindles so they can be mounted on the small pin beams. Anyone know? Dave ----

I caused more work on the hood because I removed the skin from the frame to hammer / dolly it and with the glue and prying it apart caused the more work. I also have the 2 rear fenders to do body work to. Thing is I hate doing it so when I get into doing it it is an all day thing to get it done. Last 2 days have been too cold, snow yesterday, to do Bondo work. After my post on the doors I thought I should of taken pictures of what I found. It has to come apart again and will get pictures for documentation. I am also waiting for another door my brother is sending me from a flare side so can get pictures from it to. Dave ----

First thank you for the time put in to find this. You say Ford 3G but the can shown has Ford 1G so what one is it and what year is that code found? Dave ----

Don't over look https://www.mcmaster.com/# Thing is you may have to buy in "lots of". I bought my bed carriage bolts (50), nuts (50) and nutserts (10) in the lots noted. Dave ----

You are really lucky you came up with AC brackets, I hope I have some coming with other parts my brother is sending from CA. If you replace the condenser just know the part you get now do not fit with out some modifying. Replace the AC drier, pull vacuum for 30 min as said and see if it will hold it for and hour. If so then you should be good to charge. Once I find/get the compressor brackets, condenser, drier and make up hoses I will be doing the same thing. I will be following Good luck Dave ----

Here ya go, FuzzFace! 1 & 2 - Before and after trimming the styleside bracket. 3 - Finished bracket installed (Sorry for the shameless advertising for my boss, but the truck doesn't have plates yet... 4 - Worm's eye view of the light. Thanks for the reply. My parts truck did not have the plate bracket. It had a step bumper and the plate bolted to it. I am still waiting for the parts to show up. I hate to keep bugging my brother to get me the parts as he is sending them free of charge. Dave ---- I spent some time on the fuel filler necks yesterday. I had the 1 that came with the flare side (FS) truck but it looked like someone cut it up and replaced it with something else, hose & metal (exh.?) filler pipe to get the stock FS one to work and still using the door & plastic part behind the fender. I also had the 2 from my parts truck, doors, plastic behind the body, necks & rubber hoses. I was going to use the parts truck doors & plastic as they looked in better shape and ran into the first "road block" when trying to bolt the door/plastic to the stock mounting on the fender. The door bolt spacing is farther apart on the FS than the style side (SS) door & plastic so I had to pull apart and clean up the FS door & plastic. Once they were mounted I could then see what rubber hoses & necks would work for the front door/side tank. It turned out I had to use the FS door/plastic with 1 of the SS necks and 1 of the metal flange rings, FS was missing it, and think 1 of the SS hoses and it should hook up with just a little trimming of the rubber hose. I did have to drill new holes in the plastic as the neck and ring had to be turned to line up with the hose on the tank. I did a trial fit of the rear filler neck and I think the other SS neck & hose will work but will not know till I get the door mounted and I cant do that till I get the fuel door assy. from my brother in CA that is also sending me a tail gate. I also brought the hood in from out side so that will be the next to have body work done to it along with the 2 rear fenders. It is getting closer to paint! Dave ----