FuzzFace2

Yes YFA nothing fancy on this motor. I like KISS! I don't think it has any kind of plating. I know some of the older v4 carbs have a gold type plating when new. Besides this carb was butchered! I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top on. Also found pipe sealer on a few of the right screws for the top cover. Found 1 other type screw for 1 of 3 on the choke housing. There is also a petcock, closed, in place of the hot air tube fitting for the choke. Don't know what I will do with it yet as I have EFI exh manifolds. Inside I found the needle for the float not installed right. It has the needle then a spring and metal pin. I found needle, pin and spring and some junk in it. A washer under the bowl vent seal that should not have been there, think to stop fuel from coming out because of the float needle. Also did not find any step washer on top of the accel pump assy. The kit said to replace it with a flat one from the kit but I could not find it .......... it is white and the box is white, till I had everything back together. I have to hit the hardware store of the right screws for the top & choke and will install the carb. Also have the fuel pump I want to change along with oil & temp senders before I try and run the motor again. Still plugging away at it. Dave ----

Well hit the garage at 5am, had someplace to be around 6am so why not pull the carb for rebuild? Well after pulling the carb apart I don't know if a rebuild will work,I hope so as I don't have the $$ for a new/re-built one. Why I say this is someone was into this carb before. I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top 1/3 of the carb onto the main body. I think I can find the right screws and they will tighten up ...... I hope. I did find the accel pump had cracks and was hard and not move so it had to be changed. Also found dry mud, not rust, MUD in the bowl hope that will come out. I have the main body & bottom soaking in a gal. of carb / parts cleaner so when done with my honey do list, part of that 6am Lowes hardware store run, I can get back on it. Dave ----

I like interstate Batt. and never had any issues with them. Even in my Toyota L/C I raced off road and rolled a few times. When I had a shop with dad we sold them. As for warranty it was no questions asked replace it with a prorate on how old it was, date code was stamped on the side. Got to say the last few batt. I have picked up have been Auto Zone ones as they were close and open. The interstates you had to get thru a garage and most are closed after 5pm and weekends. Dave ----

Nice let us know when they are ready to ship. Dave G.

Your original looked just like this. Original piece from my 1984 302 pictured. No sizing on the hose, just says Motorcraft. I had to make one for my truck with a 300 six. The hose I got from Auto Zone, off a bulk roll, is made for just that, vacuum & oil. If you were to use say normal fuel line or heater hose the oil will break the rubber down and you get what you have now. Dave ----

I wasn't to concerned with the fiberglass fenders...they seem to be relatively easy to come by. However, if I did decide to copy them, there are lots of fiberglass shops around here with all the boat building. My curiosity was with the Flareside steel bed sides. That is what I was wondering if they could be reproduced, even without the inner fender "hump". You have to think out of the box! No No in the box! About the box? Any way what if the bed side were made out of fiber glass? You know like they do kit car/truck bodies. Heck they could also do the front panel & tail gate in glass and sell it as a kit to replace the rotten metal parts. If the maker wanted to get real crazy could make the bed side panels to fit a long bed wheel base. Use the stock FS glass fenders and cross members (may need to add 1), get longer wood and metal strips (think the older Ford PU had a 9' FS bed maybe that metal strips?) and you would have a custom long bed FS. If the maker reached out to LMC & Carpenter I would think they would take some. Dave ----

The truck hates me for not spending more time with it. So the plan was to tighten up the suspension bolts so the suspension needed to be settled and I did not want to push it by hand. Not wanting to add fuel to the tanks,. don't know when I would be using it so a 2 gal can under the hood should do. Took over an hour to get the pump to pump fuel to the carb. First I thought the 3/8 line on a 5/16 fitting was sucking air and it was leaking some fuel. Well even the 5/16 line had issues or the pump but we got fuel to the carb. The truck went thru 2 gal of fuel hope nota sign it will be drinking fuel. I will replace the fuel pump just to be safe. Next issue the carb! It is running rich, speed screw is in all the way and only have 1000 RPM and that is with a vacuum leak, plug it off and it will not run. I hope a rebuild will fix it so will pick up a kit by the weekend. Got it to run long enough to move it in & out a few times but did not see the oil gauge working. Up to this point did not have water in it so added some wile I looked into the carb more. Think I saw the temp gauge go up a little but never to normal. I shorted the wires to ground and the gauges moved so going to replace the senders. Oh the tach works great! So when moving the truck in & out the clutch, that is new, was grabbing right off the floor. So I adjusted it some tested it and better but still not like I wanted. So getting back under I found an issue with the Z bar block side pivot. Hard to see in the picture but it was half broken. As you can see the threads cam out of the block easily. Now this part is N/A as I had to build up the bushing end with weld, grind & file back into shape. Trip to the hardware store and picked up 2 - 9/16x12 grade 8 bolts. Cut the head off, V the end and the block part so could weld it up and ended up with this. It works, still need to adjust it a little more for my liking. I also replaced the E brake adjuster. The old one was all rusted up, still don't know if it works or not. Before the replacement the pedal went to the floor and would not hold the truck so I need to check again. I also need to check the rear drum brake adjustment and look a little deeper into the low brake pedal. Other than the master & booster and other parts are new, maybe more bleeding? Also talked to my brother in CA and he said he would send the tail gate & other parts out on Monday. Dave ---- ps:yes I did get the suspension bolts tight.

Yes it was. With no glass, hood, grill & bumper and using black primer it looks worst than the day I brought it home. I know a lot was done to it that you can't see. My dad always said he like body work as you can see what was done. Mechanical work when done you never saw. I would say with out mechanical work his body work would not be on the road LOL. Dave - - - -

She sits on all 4 matching wheels .......... and all before 6AM! My normal get up time is 3am but did not need to be to work till 7am so I hit the garage at 4am till 6am. I mounted the new calipers & new pads, moved the new hoses from the calipers that did not fit to the new ones and even bleed them. Had to look thru the parts bins for lug nuts and came up a few short. I don't remember being short some but it has been over2 years. And wouldn't you know 1 of the tires was flat! I still need to move it forward & back to settle the suspension and tighten bolts front and rear yet. Getting closer to ...... who are we kidding it will never be done LOL Dave ----

That grille and front bumper do look in good shape. Some of the inside cab parts may be good, you don't have the heat like we do down here. You know if that six has AC the AC compressor brackets are worth a mint! On the flare side beds as you said the rear fenders, tail lights & brackets and the lic. plate bracket & light if there. Any tail gates on them? I take it the bed sides are rusted out? How are the front header panel and the bed cross braces? Just thinking is all LOL Dave ----

The foster thing is more my wife's thing that we do for the Johnson county animal protection league. We are also what they call foster failure as the 2 dogs we have we fostered and failed to give up. First foster we (I) never gave up, the 2nd was returned in less than 24 hr so we kept her as she got on vary good with the first and both ran each other tired, that is good for us. Puppies are hard as they are not house trained yet. What is good is our 2 dogs teach them if they want to go out to sit at the door and paw on it. They also teach them at feeding time to go in their crates and sit and wait till they are told it is ok to eat. It is rewarding knowing you have helped the animals. Dave ----

I was testing you ..... yea that's it, my story and I am sticking to it LOL I was wrong and I changed my post it should be 5000 - 5150. I was able to get the right calipers in the next town over but I am foster puppy, 2 of them, sitting and hate to crate them when I am out in the garage. The garage is not safe for them, the wife had had them out there when walking them. You watch them more than working. Dave ----

I hate all this walking ..... 1 step forward 3 steps back! During the week I got the rest of the poly bushings and the grease needed for them so today it was get the suspension, brakes and back on all 4 tires. Took a little bit to figure out how the radius bushings went but once that was done it was on to pressing the beam bushing in, that went well. I was also able to get the beams, radius arms and springs installed and torqued down with out issues. got the rotors cleaned up of rust from sitting, repacked the bearings, installed new seals and installed on the spindles, again with out issues. Then the issues! I bought new Power disc pads and when trying to install I found 1 half fit the caliper but the other half did not fit the caliper mount (spindle), too large. Checking the old parts from both trucks I found the pads to be different. The fix buy non-power pads also and use half of the pad that would fit from it and the pads from the first set that fit to make a good set. Well on the way home I got thinking maybe the power caliper I have on the truck will not fit the non-power spindle mount ...... yep 3 steps back. The spindles are non-power, the calipers power and they don't bolt up! I don't want to use the non-power calipers as they had mud dripping out of them and the outer seals had holes. I found a set in stock for $40 and hope to get them tomorrow so it may be on all 4 wheel before the weekend is over yet. I also learned non-power calipers for 4600-4700 lb trucks (mine) are the same as the power 5000-5150 lb trucks. Dave ----

I will go back over this thread and put together something the best I can before I put the truck back together. In short the 5x5 wheel pattern, non-power brake uses a deeper dish but dont know by how much. Dave ----

Good to here the trip was uneventful but it does not give a good story when the time comes Like the Hollywood wheel I had or should say lost on a trailer when going to CA. It was dusk just passing a big rig when I was checking the mirrors when I saw sparks coming from 1 of the 4 wheels. I got it all pulled over safely and sure enough 1 wheel is gone, lug gone and studs chewed up........... Yep 1 of the many stories from that trip out to CA and back to CT, oh it was the first week of Dec too! Dave ----

The thing that bothers me about that is all of the water you get in compressed air. I don't like the idea of rusting my roll cage (or bumper) from the inside out. I wouldn't do that unless you like putting gasoline in a rubber tire. Neither having an explosive vapor in it or filling it with a solvent that softens rubber appeals to me. There were (are?) products that screwed into a spark plug hole and used the engine compression to pump fresh air into the tire. You could probably figure out how to make that too, but it's more complicated than just fittings and check valves. I really wouldn't bother with the cigarette lighter compressors. But there are reasonably priced compressors that have clamps to hook directly to the battery which work fast enough that you can't get a hand of cards finished while waiting for it. I think I paid about $50 for the one I have. It takes under 5 minutes to bring one of my 33/10.50x15 tires from 15 to 35 psi after I've been 'wheeling. And it's even capable of getting my truck tires to 80 psi (but that does get boring). Nothing to get excited about, but I sure wouldn't get one of the really cheap ones when something like this is available. And to Gary's later post, there are 12V compressors even much better than mine available too, but they get to be a lot of money ($200 - $500?). A good engine-driven compressor is definitely the high-performance way to go. But not all electrics are as bad as the one you are remembering. Maybe not the roll bar as an air tank but the bumper is not that big a deal for rust. If it ever rust out when you have that truck I would be shocked! I did think of the spark plug deal and fuel in the tires but thinking he is trying to blow up crap tires just to get it to roll and on the trailer, so what will it hurt? On the 12 volt compressor, I had a set of air horns on my 86 K5 Blazer with a diesel. The gas horns use a vacuum pump run off the vacuum of the motor to work the compressor. That would not work on the diesel so it comes with a 12v one. It would build up to 125psi in short order. Even came with a hose you hooked to the air tank to blow up tires with and did a good job. Dave ----

I have also heard the off road guys do the same and some times the roll cage. They also use and old AC compressor, York piston type, as an air compressor run off the motor. They say there is enough oil in them not to worry for a bit. Could also make up a fitting to fit in a spark plug hole, hook a hose to it and the other end to the flat tire. Start the motor and blow the tire up. Gary, if the air tanks leak down I would stop at a station closer to the pickup site and fill the air tanks, the gas cans unless you need them for big blue, and fill up big blue. I know the 12v lighter compressors are not great but are better than nothing. When you are messing with other stuff it could be running and filling 1 of the air tanks. Dave ----

I am so jealous I need to find all the brackets & compressor for my 300, but first I should get it painted and on the road. Dave ----

Only $100 more than I paid for my project, 81 flare side that needed everything replaced.......that reads body off frame rebuild! I will be following your project to see how it progress. Dave ----

"Getting the truck down on all fours is a major milestone in my book." Yes it is, I had it on all fours then the old 3 steps back deal happened. All just to have matching wheels front & back, well also so I don't need 2 different spares LOL. Dave ----

That dent did hurt when I found it but as you said best now and not when I was putting the paint on. I too was worried about the pin & bushing fitment but I had a hard time trying to turn the spindle. So much so I was thinking if I left it and got the truck on the road the wheels would not come back to center if you were in a turn and let go of the wheel. When I road tested the truck before I bought it I did not know the pins were frozen. I let go of the wheel and it did not re-center and almost ended up in a ditch! Other than honing of the bushings like I did I would have had to buy a new set and find another machine shop, few of them around here, or tell them how to do their job and at $100 for pin kit and $75 for the machine work that was not going to happen. I guess you can say I think I took the lesser of the 2 evils? Once on the road I will keep an eye on them and if they get too bad either replace them or find a newer front suspension that uses ball joints. Then I could also go with DJM drop beams. Dave ---- Todays update: Light day work wise, I had 1 axle / spindle that I did not like the way it turned, not easy so I pulled it all apart did a little more bushing honing to loosen it up some. With that taken care of it was time to prep for paint along with the dust shields. Little back story on the shields I wanted to use the parts truck ones as the ones that went with the axles/spindles 1 had a little rot. Well they were different, mounting dish is deeper on the ones I need, so parts truck ones could not be used. Axle beams with spindles hanging, dust shields on hood drying after painting. During the week I will pick up new brake pads & wheel seals so next weekend I hope to get them installed and back down on all 4 wheels. Dave ----

That dent did hurt when I found it but as you said best now and not when I was putting the paint on. I too was worried about the pin & bushing fitment but I had a hard time trying to turn the spindle. So much so I was thinking if I left it and got the truck on the road the wheels would not come back to center if you were in a turn and let go of the wheel. When I road tested the truck before I bought it I did not know the pins were frozen. I let go of the wheel and it did not re-center and almost ended up in a ditch! Other than honing of the bushings like I did I would have had to buy a new set and find another machine shop, few of them around here, or tell them how to do their job and at $100 for pin kit and $75 for the machine work that was not going to happen. I guess you can say I think I took the lesser of the 2 evils? Once on the road I will keep an eye on them and if they get too bad either replace them or find a newer front suspension that uses ball joints. Then I could also go with DJM drop beams. Dave ----

Had to go to the back up plan I looked a little closer between the 2 different shields just before I was going to pull the good set off and as I kind of thought it is the off set of the mounts/dish. The one I need, non-power 5x5 wheel bolt pattern, has a deeper dish than the other, power 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern. There was no way I could take pictures with out pulling apart the good set and I did not want to do that. Maybe I can get a measurement and will check next time out in the garage. Dave ----

3/26: Last night I ordered poly bushings for the front suspension and KYB shocks for all 4 corners. Today the axle beams I now need to use I left outside after I used a torch to get the old king pins out as I did not know I would need to use them. You know what happens when heated metal sits outside for months? Yep it rusts up so the pin bores & lock pin holes had to be cleaned so the pins would fit again. So what do you use to clean rust from a 1" hole and keep it round and a tight fit to the pin? A wheel cly hone and a little PB Blaster of course. Took little time to clean the bores so the king pins fit again. For the locking pins I had a round wire brush that fit in my drill and a hand reamer. Both made short work so the lock pins fit. Also took a flat file to the ends where the pins fit as they also rusted up. I still need to clean them and knock what is left of the bushings out, paint and when I get the poly bushing I can then install. Hope this weekend if I get the parts. 3/31: Well did not get done what I wanted to. I got the bushings Friday other than radius arm as they are back ordered. The directions say to burn the rubber out keeping the outer shell so I soaked the old bushings in gas over night. Put spark to them and up in flames they went. Little screw driver to poke & push and the rubber was gone. Did some cleaning of the beams before I installed the spindles and new king pins...........this is where it turned to crap! First the new bushings that were pressed into the spindles where pushed too far to the beam side so you could not get the bearing or shims on. So using hand files I fixed that part, had to do both bushings on both spindles. Then crap #2 showed up. Looked like the machine shop reamed each bushing to fit the pin but never reamed both to be parallel so the pin would fit 1 bushing or the other but not fit thru the spindles! The way I fixed that was to take a brake cly hone that I used to clean the rust out of the beam bores to the bushings. At this time is when I also found I can not install the seals because the bushings are in too far. There should have been a pocket for the seals to fit in at the top of the beam & spindles. It took a long time to get the first one done and I fell it is still too tight and going to pull it apart and hone it some more. The 2nd assy. went faster and I was able to push the pin almost all the way thru. It will turn with just the weight of the spindle unlike the other one. I hoped to have the spindles on the beams and the beams / spindles painted today so tomorrow I could install the bushings, did not get more grease, and in the truck. And with all that I found a dent in 1 of the fenders close to a painted edge I thought was ready for paint. Dave ----

Gary, on another forum I am on they have "can you help" area, bigger forum so why it's own area. Anyway you can ask other members that might be close to the car/truck if they can look it over, take pictures and give back the information gathered. Cant always trust the seller and think it works pretty good. On here I guess you could just post up help needed and the state / city and see if you get any bites? Dave G.