FuzzFace2

I will have to take a picture but I pulled the radiator and to keep it safe laid it flat in the bed of the truck. It took just under a gallon of vinegar to fill it up to the just below the top of the 2 hose outlets. So far it is not looking like it will do much after being in for 2 hours. I will most likely keep it in for a week or more till I get back out to check & drain it. I am also going to have wife order the Oxalic Acid thru Amazon and give that a try if the vinegar don't cut it. Dave ----

Will do. As a start I picked up 2 gallons. I have also been tossing around using a small pump and back flow it from the bottom outlet up and out the top outlet. Stay tune Dave ----

I Google Oxalic Acid and it looks like I can get it thru Amazon. Will see if the wife can order some. The other thing that came up was TSP? I have used it to wash cement floors before painting but I cant see it doing any cleaning of the crust inside the radiator. Will let everyone know how it goes. Dave ----

Its not that the shop will not do it I don't have one or know of a shop around here as I am some what new to the area and never needed to look for one. The other thing is most shops are only open M-F 9-5 and when you are out the door 4am and not out of work till they are long closed. Truck driver so cant take an hour to run out either. Up north the radiator shop I used was like you said, cost more to rod then for new and why I replace a radiator in a car 2 times because of low flow. I got nothing to lose but a few $ trying the vinegar. Thanks, Dave ----

Radiator is brass / copper. It has the typical "white crust" on the upper tubes. I have not seen any flow out of the tubes, but do feel the lower ones have flow (hot) and why the question. We know the flush products you can get, either 1 part or the 2 part ones, don't do crap on cleaning the crust. What I am thinking of doing is pull the radiator laying flat with the cap on and filling it vinegar and letting it sit for a few days. Being a mild acid I think it would work on the white crust and break it down and then I could flush it out. If it did not work after a few days I could do it longer and try flushing again. Or do you have something else you would use and if so what is it? and no I don't want to take it to a radiator shop, or know of one, to have them tell me it's no good and try and sell me one. So what you say? Thanks a head of time. Dave ----

I might have gone too far on cleaning the HVAC box what you think? That was after I washed it to make sure it was clean. The other day when I had the truck running I tried the vent doors and they did not move from what I could tell. Think the fan worked on all speeds so I need to check deeper on the doors. Dave ----

The old 1 step forward 2 back happened today. Being it was going to be upper 90's, I was just going to tinker. The battery was not charging and thought I messed up the wiring because the trucks wiring has a plug for the field & stator at the ALT but the ALT I have should have each wire going to studs. My fix was to make a short jumper with spades to push into the plug. With a mirror I was able what wire went to the field on the ALT but the trucks wires are all heat bleached to white! So pull out the ohm meter and check from regulator to plug and sure enough jumper wired wrong. A little wire switch, plug regulator back in hook battery up and fire up the motor and I got to tighten the belt up! Put meter across the battery, inside gauge might as well not be there, and we have power! I also had 6.5 volts at the choke stator wire So 1 forward I let it run a bit to charge the battery wile I put tools away and pulled others out for the next job. 1 of 2 steps back - motor run long enough the temp gauge should have moved, yes it has worked in the past, it did not move this time? So will need to look into that at some point. 2 of 2 back - Ebrake would not hold and the new LMC adjustment part is taken up all the way so I picked up 1 of them cable shorting things. Installed it taking up all the adjustment on it also. Press pedal down to a point I thought it would hold ..... nope does not hold. Pressed pedal down more (to the floor) and it holds a little but no way it will hold the truck on a hill or pass safety so need to look into that too. I hope it is not the cables at the wheels. When I installed them the springs were too long but may not have cut them short enough and could have coil bind? Got to say once gas got to the carb, not much cranking, she fired right up and it has not run in weeks. Being hot & sweat soaked I called it quits at that point. oh it was 98*f in the garage when I closed it up. Dave ----

That Mal Wood extension looks like to be the ticket as the shifter is in the same place as the Chevy S10 but the speedo is where it needs to be for the Ford T5. Wonder why no one state side has done this? I know the shifter placement has been an issue with some of T5 swaps. Thing was you could not use the chevy T5 housing because the speedo was cast in a different place and the speedo drive gear could not be moved on the Ford out put shaft so the out put shaft would need to be swapped read trany rebuild. I was lucky my Ford T5 swap into a 70 AMC the shifter was only a few inches back & center from the factory 4sp shifter. Even the stock speedo cable would of worked but I went with a GPS speedo gauge. Dave ----

According to the listings in my LMC catalog, they're the same units. I'm no DSII expert, so there are guys on here that will know much more about them than me. Thought there was a post on the other forum on the T5 and the shifter. The stick ends up at the edge of the bench seat with it all the way back. IIRC the person made an off set for the shift handle / stick so it would be farther forward and used a curved handle / stick. The part the handle / stick bolts to is low enough to clear the seat it is the handle / stick that hits the seat. The person then switch the T5 for a T56 and that trany you can mount the shifter forward on the housing so it is not an issue. I tried a search but could not find it sorry. As for the cable for the clutch measure the 2 bell housings and if the same front to rear I think you should be able to swap them and use your clutch linkage. Other wise you may need to see about mounting a slave cly and master. Dave ----

Gary, what are the tires pumped up to? Max PSI is for Max load I say lower the PSI for a good ride / handling and keep the springs. Dave ----

Yes left door jamb. If there is paint on the sticker try a little lacquer thinner on a rag and be very very careful not to hurt the sticker. That is how I got mine clean. If going to paint a panel or 2 it is best to paint them all so it all matches. Dave ----

You know I have never played with a 2 stage PV I just know they open a little at 1 setting and then the rest at the other setting. To tell the truth I would just go with the 1 stage PV and tune for it. Cant help on how to run the hose / gauge that's up to you LOL But you said something about "stumbling at certain speeds, especially when accelerating up a hill or trying to accel to highway speed". Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up to your dist.? As a test remove and plug the hose and take for a test drive to see if it happens. Also try with the gas cap removed. Dave ----

I have also used SEM products. First black on another car project but has not been out of the garage yet. I also used SEM on my truck project dash and will on the rest of the panels when the time comes. Same as the car has not been out of the garage yet. I also have to say prep is everything. Dave ----

Nice, so who makes it and it works good? I posted this in the TDYDTYT I got a great fathers day gift also little late but still great! It was a Tee shirt but not just any Tee saying something like "greatest dad" oh no! It was one with a picture of what my truck will look like when done ... duel tanks and all! He got it thru https://www.customcararts.com/ Dave ----

That is one thing you have to worry about but if you fold over the edge of the paper about 2 inches then put the tape on holds off bleed thru. That is the way dad told me to do it and never had any bleed thru. The other thing they say is fiber lint getting into the paint job from news paper. If that ever happened I never seen it but back in the day with single stage it had orange peel so it would be hard to see. I could get away with news paper as "I" (not a pro) will be painting the truck in my garage so dirt / dust & bugs is a bigger worry. I also don't has access to news paper. Besides not being a pro might as well look /act like one when masking for paint! Gary, good to hear BB got an award with out even trying LOL. Everyone else I see have been busy working on their trucks, well done guys. Me have not touched mine .... been to damn hot! Dave ---- I got a great fathers day gift from my son, a little late but still great! It was a Tee shirt but not just any Tee saying something like "greatest dad" oh no! It was one with a picture of what my truck will look like when done ... duel tanks and all! He got it thru https://www.customcararts.com/ Dave ----

That is one thing you have to worry about but if you fold over the edge of the paper about 2 inches then put the tape on holds off bleed thru. That is the way dad told me to do it and never had any bleed thru. The other thing they say is fiber lint getting into the paint job from news paper. If that ever happened I never seen it but back in the day with single stage it had orange peel so it would be hard to see. I could get away with news paper as "I" (not a pro) will be painting the truck in my garage so dirt / dust & bugs is a bigger worry. I also don't has access to news paper. Besides not being a pro might as well look /act like one when masking for paint! Gary, good to hear BB got an award with out even trying LOL. Everyone else I see have been busy working on their trucks, well done guys. Me have not touched mine .... been to damn hot! Dave ----

Do you know if your stock power valve (PV) is a single or 2 stage unit? I had seen it posted (other forum) that someone had a 2 stage in the carb but the rebuild kit came with a single stage. PV's come in different sizes of HG they work. To see what size you need you will need to hook up a vacuum gauge to the motor in a way you can see it when driving. When driving you take the average of vacuum when driving under steady speed. Once you have this reading cut it in half and that is the size PV you want as a good starting place. Say you are pulling 13 HG half of that is 6.5 and this just happens to be what comes in rebuild kits. You can go up or down to see what works best for you. I know on older Holley's if the carb sneezed (back fired thru carb) it would blow out the diaphragm of the PV. New Holley's have a check valve to prevent this. I am thinking the Motorcraft 2100 & 2150 carbs would also blow out the PV if it sneezed but not 100% sure. Dave ----

If nothing out of the switch I would say its low on PSI and to test that jump the switch out and see if the compressor runs but don't run it long. As for R-12 check with different shops as they may have some stored away. It's not like they got rid of it when new stuff went 134a. Dave ----

How did I miss this? That is a score, half what I paid for mine and 1000 time better shape! I got to ask is the year you posted of 81 right? The hood, grille (letters on hood & no oval on grille), AOD (don't think was an option?) and the EEC-III (DS-II) system are not 81 items. But the F100 and 5x4.5 wheels (power brakes?) are 81 so why the question. Still nice and I would be happy to have it. Keep us posted on the work being done. Dave ----

Thanks Gary, As little as we both are making in the progress dept. it is progress! I want to get out to the garage today but it is already nasty outside and I have a few things I need to do first so who knows. At 9 mpg if you keep driving BB you will be going thru your retirement money in no time LOL Dave ----

Yesterday: what do you do when home from work by 10:30am and its not too hot? Work on the truck of course. Started the truck and moved it out so not to get covered in body work dust. I love how smooth this 300 runs. Brake pedal still goes to the floor but does stop so will need to look into that some day. I used a grinder with 36 grit disc to take the hood down to metal and prep it for a skim coat of filler. The skim coat of filler is needed because when I took the skin off the frame I put little bend marks in the skin. It also had an area that I straighten that needed a little more filler & shaping so I did that first then the skim coat. Then I removed the tail gate and started stripping it or paint & rust using a Eastwood disc made for this. I still have more to do with a smaller disc then will treat the gate with the acid I have for this. If not too hot over the weekend I hope to get the hood & gate in primer. I also have been looking at masking machines in 12" & 18" wide paper. I have been using news paper but we don't get the paper here and what I have is small sheets so felt its time to move up to one. Dave ----

I should of had my truck ready for paint as I have had half days when I worked, 1 day so far, but because of the HHH weather, high 80's and raining, I just could not bring my self to work in the garage. They say better weather is coming and I needed primer, thinner and DA disc glue so took a drive to the next town over. Funny I had to explain to them the glue I needed as the youngins had no clue. Disc with glue that I have but the glue is not sticky from age or hook-n-loop. They are looking for the glue. Then the primer, all I wanted was a gal. of lacquer primer & thinner, know how hard it is to come be that now days. They want to sell me expoxy 2 part stuff, I did not want that as I started with lacquer and wanted to stay with it. Thing was they only sell it in light gray so may need to re-prime the whole truck to get no color difference because of the base (primer) colors. Any way $130 dollars latter and I have primer. Oh it was over 90* in the garage & raining when I put the supplies in it. That's what I did for my truck today. Dave ----

I was thinking about 2 weeks ago I cleaned up the scrap metal pile and got rid of the style side bed side panel by mistake that had the 2 gas doors openings before I cut the openings from it. So all I have are the 2 doors and the black plastic boxes the neck pokes thru. With that said I don't know what pictures other than what I posted above I can get or who is needed. Gary, what is it you would like me to get pictures of between the doors? The 2 flare side doors are bolted to the fender as mock up so would et the pictures when I take it all apart for painting. Dave ----

My name is David, I turned 58 back in April. My wife, Mary and I have been married for 19 years now. I do have a grown son from another marriage. Wife and I also foster dogs and we are a foster failure x2 as we have 2 dogs we did not give up. We also have 3 cats, 2 we brought down with us when we moved from CT to NC and the other that found us as it turned up on our door step. My dad was a body and fender man and taught my brother & I the trade before high school. I went to a state tech school to learn the mechanical side of working on cars & trucks. I did a little go kart racing before high school. Had a shop with dad a few years out of school. During that time I built a Datsun 510 for road racing & auto cross, only took it auto crossing. Also built a Toyota LC for racing off road, no not just running thru the woods RACING with other trucks on the track at same time. A little later in life built an AMC Javelin for ¼ mile drag racing and restored a AMC Gremlin that I drag raced till the Javelin was done. I am also restoring a 2nd Javelin for the street, my other project that is on hold till the truck is done. I have also pulled a lot of different trailers from pop up campers to travel trailer to different size car trailers for racing. One of them a 35 foot 2 car trailer used to haul cars to auctions and 4x4's to off road races. After the shop with dad I did 15 years at a hospital doing HVAC work, the last 10 as the foreman. Then I did 15 years in I.T. as help desk and desk side / break fix support person. This time in my life I drive trailer trucks, LP gas in the winter to bulk plants and bulk cement to mixing plants in the summer. Plan is to do this till something better comes by or I retire. Just call me jack of all trades, master of none LOL I try and help when and where I can, that is how I am. Dave G.

Yes I have heard of the cam being bent or more so hard to turn and want to say they were also Comp cams. This was a few years ago and with blanks for AMC motors. Dave ----