FuzzFace2

Well I went with 2 FAN SHROUD REPRO F5TZ-8146-C for 95-96 4.9 truck with AC Thru NPD. The other for a 4.9 was for 90-96 std cooling and said something about 24"? I could not find a 24" radiator for a 4.9. Yes 2 at $15.50 ea, for $31 it was a no brainer as all the others were $31 on up for 1. Dave ----

Gary, I don't care what they say about you .... you da man! I was in there looking at the clutch part and see it starts in think 82. I then hit refresh for S&G and the fan size shows up. Other than the F100 pony opt. with a 15" fan they all look to be 18" to 18.5" size. Also as I thought the v8's are larger. That helps me a lot and if I can get the opening measurement for the later years I will know if I can try and use them as I think they are the ones I can get. Thanks again, Dave ----

Just the 300's between the years of 80 on up in to the 90's as that is what I may end up with to make fit my truck. I would think any V8 trucks would have a larger fan so a bigger opening. I went back to your part numbers page to see if I could tell fan size but did not see any for fans. I see them for the clutch & spacer but no fans, and I don't know if it will give the size? Dave ----

I have another request. I need the measurement of the fan opening as it is not posted in the part number area like how wide x tall and the bolt hole spacing. I ask because between AC and non-AC trucks I believe they use different type of fans. AC = clutch fan, non-AC = non-clutch fan and they may be different sizes. My motor was a non-AC so it has a non-clutch fan. I don't see a problem using it but if it is too small for the opening I would like to know that up front before I buy a shroud that I will mod to work. Thanks Dave ----

I will try and do the same of mine as it looks like different years used different types. Dave ----

Here is a link to a NOS one on eBay with multiple photos from different angles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Motorcraft-DA-1925-Distributor-1983-4-9L-300-I6-ONLY-Ford-E3UZ-12127-G/182341717137?hash=item2a7469cc91:g:24cAAOSw4GVYG14G:rk:3:pf:0 To add to this thread on blocking the EGR port I did it in the intake using a freeze plug and left the EGR plate & valve in place. This way if anyone wants to look if in place it is (less vacuum hose). I am running EFI exh manifolds and used a pipe plug screwed into the hole left when I removed the tube. Mine is an 81 F100 w/300 six so non-feed back system to start with. Dave ----

On line said they were on the truck at 4:30am. I was doing yard work all day, kept the dogs in most of that time and never saw a truck. So they never came Saturday and today would have been a great day to do that work as we got up snow on the ground with ice on top and rain after it. With no parts and to cold (read lazy as I have a heater I could use) to do body work I stayed in the warm house. Boss said to call in to work but I am thinking the trucks will stay parked for another day. Besides its too wet for cement work so I hope the parts come tomorrow. Dave ---- I got the AC condenser & Radiator today what a little snow will do to packages! I don't know when I will mount the new radiator as I have to come up with a fan shroud and will use the old one for fitting so I don't hurt the new one. I will mount the condenser as that needs "adjustment" to fit and will take a little work to do. Dave ----

Long story, but the shortest answer that will make some sense is: I put a '95 F150's 4.9L into my '83 Bronco. But after rummaging around my junkpile, it looks like I might have the '83 shroud on the ~'95-ish radiator now. It's too cold to crawl around under the truck tonight to look for mold numbers on that shroud. Maybe if it warms up a little tomorrow... Steve, when ever you can and if you cat that ok also. Bill the number guy also gave me the ford part number and gave a search and none for my truck are to be had. My plan now is to see what others have used like you and also look over other ford shrouds close to the same size for the 300 six and make it work. I can get the sizes from Gary's part number page, then have to cross it over to the years and then the big one if I can get it. The other thing is I don't want to spend too much for a shroud I may need to cut & glue and not have it work. I will post what I come up with. Thanks Dave ----

I don't think mine looked like the ones pictured. IIRC they were flat like with the line indent on the side that went to the frame and the arrow on that same side. The lines went to the inside of the rail then the clamps went and held lines in place with the arrow thru the hole in the frame. I also think mine came in 2 & 3 line holders. I take it you checked with LMC, NPD, and Jeff's grave yard? Maybe Dorman products has something? I don't know if any of the older cars use the same type of holders so may want to check that route also. Dave ----

John, Thanks for the offer. I had another member on the other forum that gave me links to his pictures of 85 truck. He had to replace the radiator and the old one was a 1 row and the new a 2 row and his shroud did not fit too good but found a good fitting one at the junk yard. It helped a lot as I got to see how the 2 fit the radiators. I would like to see how a 80-84 radiator / shroud fit together so I know how mine should be. Thanks again Dave ----

Steve that would be great and hope you can find & compare as I would like to know. So what did you have to do to use the 95 shroud on what year truck / radiator? I have so many notes now I am getting lost Dave ----

I should have known to look there first Dave ----

Would any one know what the Ford part number would be for the stock part? 81 F100 with 300 / 4.9 six and factory AC. The radiator is the 27" wide one. Thanks Dave ----

Man do I know what you guys are saying! $800 truck to haul trash to the dump once a week turned into a big frame off rebuild project, that was not thinking big time! Not much more is needed to lay paint to mine, I just cant get myself out there to do it. Then I get thinking after paint I have the task of putting it all back together like the 2 gutted doors. I think if I could have done a little at a time like Rembrant, it would have been a lot better. Oh well to late now LOL Dave ----

What ever you get the carb from you can get the dist. from also. If lucky it will be a DSII system. Even if it has points you can do a Pertronix kit to it and then you don't need to deal with the DSII box & wiring harness that is hard to find. The only thing if it is a points dist. check for shaft play side to side up top. With points pushing on the shaft they can get some wear and end up with side ways play. Dave ----

That looks nice. Mine looked that good till the body filler dust started flying! On the Ospho mine also turned white when it dried. A few days later when I was going to work on it it was raining so I pulled the water hose out and rinsed off along with rain water what would come off. The next day was nice so I use shop air to blow it dry and then painted, no sanding of the Ospho. For frame/rear axle/front beams & suspension I used TSC brand black oil base paint with hardner So far it is all good but guess it would if it never leaves the garage LOL. Dave ----

Hi everyone, I am looking for some information on fan shrouds for my 81 F100 with a 300 six and factory AC. This would be a full shroud, non-AC only has a shield on the top to protect you from the fan. The information I can get so far from LMC truck based off radiator part numbers is 80-84 is one type of radiator, 85-86 (V belt?) & 87-96 (Serp belt?) different type of radiator. I know the types are 80-84 bottom & top mount like I have, the 85-97 is a side mount. Now the question on the shroud(s) I need one for the 80-84 radiator and no one sells them that I can find. LMC has them for the 87-96 and they list 2 different ones, AT ($30) & MT ($50) and thinking they are for the serp belt setup? Would anyone have pictures of the 2 different shrouds (top/bottom 80-84 & side 85-86 radiators) and how they mount to the radiator? Also if someone would have a picture of the 87-96 shroud either type, I know wrong area to ask, that would help. Depending how different they are I might be able to use one of the later (87-96) side mount radiator shrouds with a little work? If no pictures but you know how they mount and what is different between them would help. Thanks Dave ----

It only takes 2 points to determine a line (or alignment), so generally just 1 clamp. The pack bolt & U-bolts are the 2nd point holding all the leaves in-line. The only reason for any clamp is so the leaves don't pick up things you drive over. This caption explains some about the clamp: https://supermotors.net/getfile/576475/thumbnail/leafspringclip.jpg Nice job on the frame I remember doing the same to mine not long ago. I did use the acid but not the primer before painting. How did you do the painting brush or spray? I used a spray gun on mine. I will have to check the springs on my truck and the ones from the parts truck to see on them clamps as I dont remember. I would say only on the front as they would also act as a poor mans traction bar if clamped tight. Dave ---- edit: I just did a quick look thru my pictures and it looks like just the front. I did not have 1 good picture showing this but a few different ones to see this.

On line said they were on the truck at 4:30am. I was doing yard work all day, kept the dogs in most of that time and never saw a truck. So they never came Saturday and today would have been a great day to do that work as we got up snow on the ground with ice on top and rain after it. With no parts and to cold (read lazy as I have a heater I could use) to do body work I stayed in the warm house. Boss said to call in to work but I am thinking the trucks will stay parked for another day. Besides its too wet for cement work so I hope the parts come tomorrow. Dave ----

The actual charger is essentially the same for all packs of the same voltage. But modern packs aren't simply batteries - the have their own internal electronics that protect & monitor them. And even older chargers often had diagnostics which used other terminals on the battery packs. So since the old PC charger doesn't have compatible diagnostics with the new packs, I don't trust it. And I'm not even sure the new packs will allow themselves to be charged by it since it can't connect to some of their terminals DIScharging only requires the 2 main terminals, so they'll run any tool they can physically connect to (which is why the case has to be changed). Got it nice to know when I run into the same issue. Thanks Dave ----

This may help you / others. On cables that are stiff and need lubing I take a baggie and poke the cable thru 1 corner and use a rubber band to hold it tight near the end of the outer part. I then put a little ATF in the baggie so it will flow into the cable. I then hang the cable so the ATF can flow down the whole cable and drip out the end. I will move the inner part as it the ATF works it way down and when done it moves like new. I have also done this with Ebrake cables that where stiff or I coil them and soak them in a pan with ATF. Dave ----

No. In a few VERY RARE cases, tools designed by the same company (like B&D-PC-DeWalt) will have the same battery shape & connector. But you'll probably never encounter that situation. Just expect that your batteries are specific to the brand name you see on them. That being said... A 20V battery is a 20V battery, and it WILL power anything that needs ~20VDC (including some 18V, 19.2V, & 24V devices). I can't buy modern Lithium batteries for my old 19.2V Porter Cable tools (NiCds are garbage), but I have a BUNCH of those tools. So I buy Craftsman 19.2V Lithiums, take the battery packs out of the cases, put them into my PC cases, and solder the wires back on. But I have to use an adapter to charge the Li packs inside PC cases on the Craftsman charger. Thanks for the reply. I was afraid of that and may just get the same make of the 4.5" grinder / cut off wheel tools I have the same batteries. On your batteries if you did the case swap why cant you charge it in the PC charger? Is the amp different and will cook them? I would think 19.2v chargers are the same other than the "slots" to fit the battery. Dave ----

Steve thanks for the link but ..... when I first moved in in 2015 I had the service to the garage upgraded so I could run my air compressor and lights installed because the 2 - 8' lights were not enough to do any work in there. I added 5 more 8' lights and if I ever want to I can wire in the 2 old lights but I don't need them yet. On the project I did order the radiator & the AC condenser. It would be nice if they came in for this weekend as they are talking a snow / ice storm late Saturday into Sunday and if so I may not have work Monday and could work on the truck. I got them thru Rock Auto, I was able to get both less S&H for the same price of just the radiator thru Auto Zone. Dave ----

So your plan is to run the exhaust fairly tight below the fuel tank(s) on both sides? Remind us again why you don't want to go with a factory dual tank set-up?...lol. And he want to put the HOT muffler between the frame rail & transfer case. There is a reason why the factory put things where they did. You DO NOT want to run the HOT exh under fuel tanks as it will heat the fuel and this is not good for vapor lock. Then you want to put that big hot muffler next to the transfer case what do you think that will do to the oil and bearings? Have you looked into an AUX tank to fit in the bed if you don't want to put one out back in the stock location. Dave ----

I had to replace a Ryobi cordless drill that someone liked more than me along with a hand full of corded power tools like 3 or 4 3/8" drills and Porter cable recp. saw and some other things. Being I had a home repair and needed a drill and did not want to drag out drill & cord etc. I wanted a battery drill. Being cheap I did not want to spend big bucks for 1 so I checked out Harbor Freight Tools & Northern Tool. Ended up at HFT and was going for an 18v drill w/batt & charger. Then was going to get a kit of 3 tools and batt & charger. Then got looking at the 20v tools and went with a Bauer 1/2" v.s. & reverse keyless chuck that came with 1.5ma batt & charger. I picked up a 3ma battery as a back up. Down the road I will get a 1/2" impac & 4.5" grinder & recerp. saw. https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-hypermax-lithium-12-in-drilldriver-kit-63531.html Now my question and could not find an answer: Bauer does not make a saw at all and wanting to stay with 20v I would have to go with some other manfg. Do all 20v batteries work with other tools? Say Bauer battery in a B&D tool of the same 20v? With that said would the same be true with the 18v tools & battery? BTW the Bauer 20v drill worked great on the repair I had to make. Undoing lag bolts, drilled a lot of 1/4" holes in wood and tighten nuts down on carriage bolts so a lot of swapping 1/4" drill for a 7/16" deep well socket and forward & reverse. Dave ----