FuzzFace2

First I should say a few things about this "project" so we know what we are working with. Project is an 81 F100 300 six/T18 with AC & duel tanks. Motor is not the one the truck came with. Think it is late 80's but not sure? Air filter assy. I also don't know if this truck came with this type or the more common bigger round one? 1- I don't need or want to hook up all the vacuum lines as posted it the diagram. 2- I do want to hook up the dist. vac. advance and right now it is run to the carb. I am ok with that but if it is run a different way from the factory please let me know. 3- I do want to hook up the carb bowl vent to keep the fumes at bay and the 2 canisters this hose runs too. This hose had a "T" and pulled vac. from some where? I need to know where as I cant figure this out. I do have the 2 tanks piped to the canisters. 4- Air filter, I would like the door on the snorkel to work as I do have the duct work to pull cooler fresh air from in front of the grille. I think this "switch" is on the floor of the filter assy and hoses get put on from the bottom side. Does this get manifold vac. or ? Also the supply hose get connected to the side with the open port on top or the other side? (see picture) 5- I am not too worried of the 2 vac. valves/switches on the side of the air filter assy. unless they need to be hooked up to get the filter door to work or the canisters. Picture of vacuum label Larger image link http://cars.grantskingdom.com/var/albums/1981-Ford-F100/20160606_165929.jpg Picture of air filter switches/valves - 1 of the switches on the side is marked "TVS" the other has fords numbers on it. Thank you for any help you can give me. Dave ----

On mine? I cant say for sure as it is from my parts truck (81 F100 Ranger) and the radio & HVAC control panel was "ripped" out taking part of the dash with it that I had to fix. The truck was also missing the doors but from what I can tell it had speakers in the doors as the speaker wires, cut at radio end (along with the HVAC wires), trace down to the kick panel areas and the colors match the decoding page. I don't know what that brown plug with the 2 black wires and the other color wire is to yet? I also think and maybe this was later years, there was a clock option that was above the radio and this plug/wires could be for that? Someday I would like to install a radio and have it feed off the stock factory wiring if I can. Dave ---- As cold as it was in the garage (34*, 30* oat) I did a little digging for other wires. I have no clue if any of them are for a radio or not. I found a 3 prong plug with 4 wires in it. 2 - Black / Blue stripe 1 - Brown 1 - Red / Pink stripe I also find 1 cut wire in the area. Blue / Red stripe {edit: in post above it said this was dash lights?} Dave ----

When this happened to others using a 1 wire, could be different in this case of looping it to the out put?, I do not know the condition of the rest of their system so they may of had a bad connection some place? Maybe it has to do with the higher output of the 3G ALT? What is nice is we can read about all the different ways people have done something, what has worked and what has not and then pick what we think will work for us. Oh yes the internet is grand! Dave ----

On mine? I cant say for sure as it is from my parts truck (81 F100 Ranger) and the radio & HVAC control panel was "ripped" out taking part of the dash with it that I had to fix. The truck was also missing the doors but from what I can tell it had speakers in the doors as the speaker wires, cut at radio end (along with the HVAC wires), trace down to the kick panel areas and the colors match the decoding page. I don't know what that brown plug with the 2 black wires and the other color wire is to yet? I also think and maybe this was later years, there was a clock option that was above the radio and this plug/wires could be for that? Someday I would like to install a radio and have it feed off the stock factory wiring if I can. Dave ----

Don't know how I did not see this. I have a little information from my 81 F100 that I posted when trying to figure out some wires in the dash radio area and posted some place else. 4 wire harness (I have found they are for speakers) 2 black/white dash - speaker grounds? 1 orange/green dash - left speaker? 1 white/green dash - right speaker? Brown plug connector 3 wires:? (I don't know if this is for radio or not?) 2 black to the same spade in connector 1 red/green stripe Next time I am in the dash or in the garage I will give a closer look now that I know what some of the wires go to. I can not put power to them yet. Dave ----

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT. Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed. I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging. What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT. Dave ----

You said it "A LOT OF WORK" if using the Ford parts "book". 1 section to look at a picture and get a part of the part number then another area to look up the right part number for year truck. Then Ford calls the part something else than what everyone else calls it so trying to find it in the first place is a job. I already have one of them Dave ----

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg Dave ----

Roger, Good to hear that DJM is looking in to making the beams again. As for the kingpin beams and the different sizes in the pins and I have not looked into this, the beams "may be" the same size hole for the pin and the spindles may be different as are the pins you need for the different brakes? One way I would look into this and maybe with what Gary posted (I have not looked) you could check if the part numbers for say, 81 or 82 with cast beams list the same numbers wither power/non-power brakes. I do know there is for the ball joint beams a cast or stamped beam and as I posted in Gary's post I think if you were to swap out as a whole from pivot on out it would work. Just me thinking and that can be a bad thing, look at the firewall swap to have AC and style side metal floor in place of flare side wood floor Dave ----

Gary / others, What I see using the parts books and that Bill aka numbers dummy does, it ONLY shows what years that part fits NOT what they INTERCHANGE with. Look at the 300six EFI exh manifolds. If you were to look up what they fit it will give you the years that EFI was installed on the 300 six engine. We now know the EFI exh manifolds will fit earlier 300 and think the other six motors with the intake/exh bolted together. So with that said any front suspension parts with the same dimensions "should" swap as a whole. So "should" be able to use stamped arms in place of cast if you swap all parts from the pivot on out. You might get away with reusing say spindles on out or brake parts but to be safe pivot on out is best. I would also check the pivot bolt size to see if the same bolt is used but I think they are. I think I seen it posted the radius arm bracket bushings were different but someone did this swap just don't remember what was involved to do so? Just my take on the parts interchange. Dave ----

Gary, little late to the party, what does the other end of that cable look like? I ask because that end pictured looks like the end that goes to the temp. door arm and the tab would get a screw thru it to the box. Dave ----

I thought the beams were the same other than pins/ball joints and cast or stamped, from 80 up to 90 or so and why it was posted to use the later year beams. As for 5x4.5 wheels and power brakes if I checked it right you pins would be the smaller ones. My parts truck had power brakes and my project non-power brakes. The project needed kingpins so I was going to swap front suspensions then found out about the wheel size and could not swap the hub so then found out about the pin size. Some links I have saved may not be just for 80-86 trucks but you can see how it is done. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1415868-84-f150-2wd-project-need-help.html https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1365547-crown-vic-ifs-swap-for-81-f150.html https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1493460-its-been-too-long-yet-another-truck-build-cv-ifs-fuel-injection-etc.html I don't think I have one on the drop beams so you will need to do a search for them. Dave ----

Dave - I'm not sure what post you are talking about, but I don't believe it will be easy to use the 85/86 controls and turn off the water in both Vent and Max. Yes, you can do it in Max because you can tee into the Recirc door's vacuum, but that won't turn off the water in Vent. Or, you can use a manual valve. Or, an electric valve. If that's adequate for you, then carry on. I'm just wanting to make sure you know the situation. Had a big thing typed out on my phone and lost it :( Yes I under stand about the controls and vslves. Dave - - - -

Yes, that's exactly right. Let me see what I can come up with. A 85/86 switch with a vacuum harness plus the plug that I already got would put you in business with your current controller. But would you prefer a 1980-1984 controller with harness and pigtail? I got that you need AC and dual tank switch which is how most of them are on Arizona trucks. I am probably going back to the junkyard on Wednesday. Jonathan, I will leave it up to you on what you can find. just a recap: 85/86 pigtail, guess a good vacuum valve switch but I think I can come up with something to hold the hose manifold in place, hose manifold, temp cable. 80-84 control panel for factory AC and duel tanks, pigtail, hose manifold, temp cable. One of the reasons it was brought up on using the earlier one is for adding a vacuum valve to the heater hose to help the AC work better. But it was also posted you can get a different valve to do the some with either system. Think that should cover it. Again what ever is easier to find and pull from the JY. PM me when you have everything to work out payment. Thanks Dave ----

I also have an 81 F100 flare side and looked into doing the same. Part of the issue with 80-81 with kingpins is the pins come in 2 different sizes based on power or non-power brakes. I think because of that is 1 reason they are not made. The other is alignment. With ball joints they make special parts to get it back in alignment. With kingpins you have to bend the beams and if you don't know what you are doing you can turn them to junk. So the $64 dollar question how to lower 80-81 trucks? Use later ball joint beams. Now they say to use a certain year(s) but I don't remember what years they were. I want to say 90 something and the other reason they say it, it has better disc brakes. So hit the junk yard get the beams on out. Remove the spindles on out and put them on the new drop beams. I am sure someone that knows more will post up. Dave ----

I did see that that but beggars can’t be choosers when it comes to parts for our trucks. Also till I know that vacuum switch can be swapped to the control I might be stuck with what I have as I also have duel tank panel with AC. I could also go with a manual valve if I was that worried. I also have the 300 using EFI manifolds and the heater water will also be used to heat the intake manifold. Dave ----

Bill, Do you have both control panels & vacuum switch parts? I can tell you the later switch does use 2 screws to hold it to the panel. I do have some pictures of the panel/switch but not one from the bottom showing the screws but do have 1 from the top. 1 screw is at the end of the black rectangle housing, to the center of the control. the other screw is to the right (back side) the other end of the rectangle housing. I just can not tell from your picture & drawing if they will swap panel years or not? I can get other pictures if you want. Dave ----

Jonathan, Would the 2 studs be the white things on either side of port "5"? Then both of my vac switches are broken that way and why I did not know. If you can come up with the colored hose harness & cable and now a good switch let me know how much and where/how to send money. I guess the switch & harness would match and may not have the ports in the same place, as long as it works. Gary, Lets see what Jonathan can come up with for the hose harness & cable and the electric plug that goes on the end but will keep you in mind & posted of the out come. Thank you guys, if you don't know it you are a lot of help and my wife tells my I need help! LOL Dave G.

Gary, I thank you that will help a lot. Take your time I am in no rush. It is one of them things I am thinking of this part and once I know what I am looking for I can keep an eye open for the parts. It is also hard to hit the junk yards around here because of the hours I work and the hours they are open. Then they may not even have any thing that old to pick parts from. I thank you again Dave ----

I should add I don't have any of the colored plastic lines so I am running all new black rubber line so would need to know port # to what vacuum motor. Dave ----

This HVAC control panel will be the death of me I have 2 questions 1- what is the vacuum hose pin out of the control? I see you have one listed in the post on "vacuum heater vavle" but they are in line guessing the early control as I was told I have a later one and they are not in line. Number on valve: Motorcraft E1AH-190961-BA All the ports are open and are listed L>R as below. top row right side: 8, 9 1 row down: 3, 1 1 row down: 5 bottom: 2, 7, 6 2- I don't have the temp cable. Is this just for the AC box or can a non-AC cable be used as I have 2 from the 81 non-AC box? How long is it if I have to make/find one? On top of all this I may need to remove the dash to do the vacuum lines and the cable. Thanks for any help you can give. Dave ----

Looking good and only in 3 months. I love the wood grain it really "up grades" the inside. Come Dec. I will have mine 2 years and not even close to being on the road. I hope spring time to get paint on it as it has gotten cold and no heat in the garage. Dave ----

Dave, PM me your address. I snipped off a pigtail with about 6" or so if wire attached to the plug. The yard didn't even end up charging me for it. If you want/need a complete cab harness I could possibly find one and pull it for you, but we should discuss years, equipment options, etc., the last time I pulled one it took me a couple of hours, and the resulting spaghetti ball completely filled a Rubbermaid tub. The junkyard price including the core charge (for copper wire) is currently $38 plus tax and environmental charge. It is a pretty heavy pile, so the shipping would be considerable. Still not a bad price considering the alternatives, but hopefully you can patch what you have. First I want to thank you for doing this. I think I did it right and sent you a PM, said something about email so?? If you did not get it let me know and I will find just what I need to do, still learning this site. I should not need any other wiring as the rest looked in good shape when pulled from my parts truck. Before I got the truck they sold the radio & HVAC panel and that is why the cut wires. Thank you again Dave G. ps: hope you did not get too wet in the rain.

If you knew a guy who was going to the junkyard in the morning after work I'm sure he could grab you one with enough wire attached to patch it in 😉 ...and I'll bet it wouldn't even cost much. I am up for that if that person could come up with the plug and some wire or the whole harness if not much to get it out. So far the plug/pig tail looks to be about $30+ s/h if it is the right one as they have 2 that look the same with just the last 3 letters being different. 3U2Z-14S411-MCA (WPT448) and 3U2Z-14S411-AVA (WPT344) Any one know what is different between them? Once I have this part of the wiring done and truck running I know someone that is looking for the main wiring harness, had an engine fire, that I would give him my old one if it will help him as I would not needed it. Dave ----

That will work. I also looked over the link Ford F834 posted and I think I can get it wired up and not let the smoke out ;) Thanks again guys Dave G