FuzzFace2

Jim, watch them yellow-n-black home depot bins. They like to crack. I used them when I moved and packed them full of parts then into a PODS for shipping. When I pulled them out some were cracked then and a few more have done so over time. Dave ----

Gary, The flare side panels will be bolted to the floor just like if it was wood. I am only going to use a few bolts for test fitting to the truck. I want to use carriage bolts just like stock and think I have a way to make the square holes in the lips. Besides bolting it if I ever want to go back to wood, when I hit the lotto, I can. I also can not weld the sides to the floor as the style side bed sides & floor had been lineXed and getting that stuff off is a PITA! When heated/burned (plasma cutter) it melts and stays sticky so all trimming after the first plasma trimming was with a sawzall and cut off wheels on my hand grinder. I forgot to use weld thru primer before I tack welded the front brace and realized this when I pulled the floor back off and up on end for welding. The floor has to come off again as I want to clean the under side and paint it so will try and get some extra paint in there. Dave ----

I wish I could find someone for the 10 bolt, disc brake, dually, superduty rear. Those are rare as hens teeth, and worth some $ But as heavy as it is there's no sending It anywhere. Yesterday got more done on the bed floor. After cleaning the brace & floor for welding I put the floor back on the truck and found did not clean enough and had to lift it up to do more cleaning. Tacked the brace to the floor and pulled floor off so I could weld the brace to the floor. Setup for welding. I then was able to trim the front of the floor as it was real close to the cab. Did I tell you I have been doing this by my self? This is how you get the bed on & off truck. It was time to put the old flare side bed panels together so I can see how much of the floor had to be "trimmed". More trimming to get the panels to side on the mounting lips. The style side floor seams to be just a little longer than the flare side as the front/rear lips show but can be dealt with easily. front lip about 1.5 inches rear about 2.5 inches Still have some final centering, squaring & trimming then will drill a few holes and put bolts thru to bolt the sides to the floor and fit it to the truck to see how it all fits. Then take it all apart to clean & paint the floor and fix the rusted panel lips. How I left it last night. Dave ----

I wish I could find someone for the 10 bolt, disc brake, dually, superduty rear. Those are rare as hens teeth, and worth some $ But as heavy as it is there's no sending It anywhere. Yesterday got more done on the bed floor. After cleaning the brace & floor for welding I put the floor back on the truck and found did not clean enough and had to lift it up to do more cleaning. Tacked the brace to the floor and pulled floor off so I could weld the brace to the floor. Setup for welding. I then was able to truck the front of the floor as it was real close to the cab. Did I tell you I have been doing this by my self? This is how you get the bed on & off truck. It was time to put the old flare side bed panels together so see how much of the floor had to be "trimmed". More trimming to get the panels to side on the mounting lips. The style side floor seams to be just a little longer than the flare side as the front/rear lips show but can be dealt with easily. front lip about 1.5 inches rear about 2.5 inches Still have some final centering, squaring & trimming then will drill a few holes and put bolts thru to bolt the sides to the floor and fit it to the truck to see how it all fits. Then take it all apart to clean & paint the floor and fix the rusted panel lips. How I left it last night. Dave ----

Thing is most style sides had step bumpers and the plate mounted in the center of the bumper that had a little light on each side. That is what my parts truck had, step bumper. Dave ----

I had a late start for work today so hit the project for a few hours. I drilled out about 25 spot welds on a brace that had to be removed so I could install the right front brace with the bolt holes. You can see where the old one was just under the right one clamped in place. Dave ----

The Gremlin is a 75 factory V8/auto car. I have had it about 20+ years. The motor always ran hot, think mud in the cooling passages that flushing will not get out. The front pump seal leaks or converter ears are cracked, known cause, to leak like seal so trany would also need to be pulled. Small body so not a lot of room or fun to pull motor or trany. Then add rust mites, inner & outer rockers, floors 1 fender that I know of and a door. I have a fender (don't know if right side or not) & door. No one makes floors and if you can get rockers it is for a Javelin and trim to fit. If I come across a better small car body I will swap all the V8 parts over to it. Before I do anything with the Gremlin I have two 70 Javelins, 1 is my a street car I have been restoring and moding for years now. AMC 360 v8, pulled the T10 4sp and installed a WC T5, custom gauges to look stock, silver carbon fiber dash over lay also made to look stock. Front & doors body work is done. In the middle of flush mounting the front & rear glass then finish the rest of the body work & paint. The other is my 1/4mile drag car I built from the ground up, not raced it in 10 years. I would have to go thru it all before hitting the track again. The AMC stuff was put on hold because of the 81 F100 flare side project truck. Dave ---- ps that gremlin has 2.89 rear gear so a dog off the line drag racing it (before drag car was done) but would go thru the lights at 90 mph 2nd or 3rd gear at about 16 sec. all stock amc 304 motor.

He want about 3 inches in from the gutter. I was going to go 6" but as you said bigger is better and trim for shipping. Only reason I told Darin to ask you is mine is from the roll over parts truck and is bent up pretty good and I think not worth shipping to OZ. Pete the whole roof would be nice but shipping to OZ would be killer! Dave ----

I cant remember if anyone sells the right bracket & light now as it was some time ago I kind of asked the same question. Yes the 2 holes are for the plate bracket. I think for now I am going to go with a cheap set of trailer lights because I have them, and the plate bracket that fits the light. I will use LED bulbs in the lights, same with the front park/turn and side markers. What I would like to do is get the older p/u tail lights in a crest shape and small backup light on each side either under or next to it on the inside. Then again I may find something else I like better? Dave ----

I have to backup a little as what I did today was because of what I did last weekend. I "trimmed" the style side long bed bed so the floor was left as I am going to use it in place of the wood floor on my flare side. The reason for this is just in all the cross braces is $1000.Add the front panel, tail gate, wood, metal strips & hardware and we are over 2K. That kind of money is not in the bank for this over budget project, so we use what we have. After a LOT of trimming! Placed it on the truck to check how it fit. Have to remove one of the front cross braces (2nd one back from front) and fit the front one that +has the bolts thru it. That brings us up to today. Before work I moved thing around in the garage, lifted the bed floor off the truck, pushed the truck out from under it and got the bed standing up on end. (no picture at 6am when I had to leave for work) I can now drill out the spot welds on the brace that has to come out, trim 2 lips on the bottom side of floor so the front brace will sit flat. Then I can fit the floor back on the truck, line up the front brace and tack weld it in place and remove the floor for better welding. Once the floor is fitted I can trim a little more and fit the side & front panels, hang fenders to make sure everything lines up.........I HOPE! Dave ----

Not on our trucks but I have heard of guys using mechanics wire like staples. Poked thru the front and twist on the back side to hold it in place. Dave ----

I am using the full main & AC harness from the parts truck that had AC, just moved it from 1 truck to the other. I am even using the rear harness that runs along the frame (duel tanks) and the tail light harness. There is some thing with this AC harness I just cant get my head around. I think the next step is to pull the AC harness out of the truck, lay it on the floor and take a picture or 2 and where it plugs into the extra main harness so everyone (me) can see this better and maybe under stand what I am seeing. Peteponies, being your dash is open can you see what color the wires are going to the fan switch. Thanks Dave ----

It does and does not. The testing of the switch gives wire color and where they go on the switch but none of the colors are what is in my AC harness and cut wires. In this link http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ac--heater.html 2nd picture down has a note to look on page 151 for the switch pin out. I wonder if the colors are different in that one? It is strange that most of the cut wires are brown/white and that 1 green/purple (PSI switch wire) but I don't see how that ties into the fan switch to turn on the AC compressor? Now that I have the pin out for both AC and non-AC switch I can see what my truck has. The hunt goes on! Thanks Dave ----

Ok I "think" I may have found the answer I need on the cut wires of all places LMC site. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=141 It looks like the fan switch is the same for AC and non-AC systems as does the plug/pig tail. My thinking has been and still is you un-plug the BR/OR looped wires and plug this AC harness in to the 2 looped wires. The AC harness has a fan switch plug that after unplugging the non-AC plug from the fan switch you now plug this AC plug into the fan switch. If this is so, still need someone to confirm the 2 plugs, I can buy a new pig tail and splice it onto the wires but brings up another question. What is the pin out of the wires to the switch? Anyone have that other page (page 151?) in the link for the switch pin out and does it include the AC harness? Thanks Dave ----

Thanks for the radio information when I get to that point it will be needed. That green wire is in the AC harness with all the brown/white wires and does not go to the radio. That green wire goes to the psi switch on the system then turns to black going out to the compressor. I am going to dig out all my HVAC control panels and check the fan switches. I got a feeling that there maybe a different switch for the AC system and there should be a plug on all the cut wires to pull in the compressor when the AC is turned on. Thanks for your help and the hunt goes on! Dave ----

I got my R/R & L/R wheel cables from Auto Zone. The only thing I found wrong with the cables were the springs that push the shoe park arms back were too long. The springs would bow out and rub the drums and you could not step on the ebrake pedal as the spring would not compress. I cut them shorter and may still need to make shorter. My front cable was good. Dave ----

It is hard to see where it is from my picture but it would be behind where the radio would be. You can just make it out in the upper opening. Don't mind the cut wires on the right outside the dash as they are for speakers. Also if in that area would you know what wires feed the radio? When I add a radio I would like to use the factory wires if I can. No rush, I have a lot of other things to keep me busy. Thanks, Dave ----

Pete if you could that would really help....I hope. Some one posted a link to "A/C & Heater - ???Gary's Garagemahal" page 142. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ac--heater.html Looking it over and if I am reading it right the non-AC harness has that loop (see picture above) with the plug. I think that is C606 & C606A br/o wires. When you plug in this AC harness between that loop, it has S603 that taps into the br/o with a br/w and think gr/p having all 3 color wires coming out. Now what throws me is the "AC/Heater function selector switch? Do you unplug the non-AC fan switch and this AC harness has it's own fan switch plug that ties in this harness or what? I ask because I still have all the br/w cut wires and I don't know what/where they go? I should also pull out the 2 AC control panels I have and see if the fan switch has the same plug as what I have in the truck and if not that would explain all the br/w wires. Also I would need to see page 151 for the switch pin out I guess. Thanks guys Dave ----

darn I was trying to quote you and it sent an email sorry. I am still learning how this all works with pictures & quoting. I did post pictures in a thread on "AC harness" or the like. Thing is the way the pictures are listed on my PC it is long numbers. So when I go to add a picture I have to open them on my PC to see if it is the right picture, remember the number so I pick the right one to add to the post. Not that easy and I am one of the people that don't like change but I am getting it just takes me a little longer is all. Dave ----

I have a 81 F100 300 six/T18 non-AC. I am using a wiring harness from the same year/motor truck that has AC as I added all the AC parts to this truck. The parts truck had some of the wires cut when they removed the radio and thought they were for it. When I asked on the other forum https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1509049-questions-on-cut-wires.html no one could find the wires for the colors given. 6 heavy wires: radio wires?? 2 have ends = 1 brown/white stripe plugged in to main harness, other brown/orange stripe plugged in to main harness 2 brown/white stripe = cut? 1 brown/orange stripe = cut? 1 green/purple dash = cut? A little more digging and looking over my non-AC harness to see if I could find them and came across this when I traced out the cut wires I then found it was for the AC as the harness passes thru the firewall with 2 wires (compressor & fast idle sol). It looks like they unplug the 2 wires and plug in this AC harness thing is I do not know what the cut wires go to?? I checked the HVAC panels and there is nothing the cut wires would go to. I do have the plugs for blower motor & duel tanks. Could this be for a radio as it was removed from the parts truck and it looks like the project truck was a radio delete as I did not find factory speaker wires, I did find them (cut also) on the parts truck harness. Thanks Dave ----

I ended up buying black 2 gauge cables. They come with the cheap rubber colored caps that go over the post. I had to mod 2 of the cables, 1 had the wrong end (needed eye/eye) and the other was too long. I crimped and soldered the ends on. I dropped some chips of solder in the terminal, added a thin piece of solder in the middle of strands of cable, then crimped before soldering. I also added the tab in the middle of the ground cable like stock. http://cars.grantskingdom.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100/20171015_114608 http://cars.grantskingdom.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100/20171015_123448 http://cars.grantskingdom.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100/20171015_123612 Dave ----

Pete, I have given up for now on the red cables. I think I saw I could order them on line (auto zone?) but at the time I did not know the size needed and also don't know if I could get them in 2ga as they also listed 4ga cables. Gary, I little looking on the net did not turn up anything for any cable other than for a v8 F or U truck and that was at 56". So I am going with what I have and route it away from danger. Thanks guys for the help. Dave ----

Thanks I will give that a try Dave ----

My parts CD only goes to 1986 also or I would "try" and look the cables up. Auto Zone is showing a 1988 F150 2wd w/ 4.9L MFI 6cyl so I would go with that being it is closer in year to my 81. I also think that was the year the Y pipe I got was for. Again I am just wondering if the battery to frame/motor/trany ground and solenoid to starter cables are the same between 81 (carb) & 88 (EFI). Going to try and get out to the garage tonight or early tomorrow morning to look the cables over and I have to dig out the old trucks harness from a storage bin to check on some missing plugs mine has now. Thanks Dave ----

Just thought of something I am running EFI exh manifolds. When I pulled the ground and starter cables off to measure I saw they were close to the pipe. I wonder if the EFI 300 six had different length cables and how they may have been run? My Y pipe is from 1988 but the cable link years only go to 86 so it has me thinking.....yea I know dangerous are they the same or not? Guess I will "lay" out the cables before I cut them to see how it all fits. And we wonder why so little get done because we over think the job. Dave ----