85lebaront2

Question: Are you are saying that the ICM is wired the same way but uses different wire colors? Plans & Observations: Tomorrow I'm going to do my best to figure out where the other four wires from the ICM go/come from. It is really bugging me! One wire is ground and it wasn't cut. The one wire I figured out today was cut as it came off of the PDB, and the other wires are cut in roughly the same spots. So that implies I cut them yesterday. But so far nothing even close to the same wire colors and gauge is showing up. The ICM wires may have varied in color between the Ranger and the F series. I do know that the cars (Crown Vic Grand Marquis) have different colors at the EEC-V than the trucks. On the truck one, the difference would be Y/BK in place of R/LB with Y/BY going to pin #48 on the EEC. I do have what appears to be the full harness for the '96 5.0L, but I may not have the O2 harness. I'm not sure of that and need to confirm it - tomorrow. I used a 5.0L harness but used the 7.5L O2 sensor wiring as it runs through the front harness rather than the engine harness, Since I do not have headers, my O2 sensors are in the down pipes from the manifolds and plug in to the front harness on each side. The 5.0L engine harness has plastic supports or stays wrapped in it, and if I use it I think I'd want to remove those so the harness could be attached to the fuel rails. But I could lay the harness over the engine and see what would fit and what wouldn't. I did that if I remember correctly, I may have untaped and moved them to get in the correct location on the supports. It might not be bad to have the O2 sensors coming off of the engine harness. That would get down close to the sensors while staying away from the headers as far as possible. And it would get the wires out to the engine via the bit I'm going to put heat protection on. I seem to recall that due to the width of the 460 and where they end up it would be messy. Maybe if you run them over the back of the heads so they won't have to go through the snakes nest of header tubes that might work and give you a place to anchor the wires and connectors, left side could be secured to the fuel lines.

Gary, first item, I used a 5.0L engine harness on Darth to build his engine harness. It worked quite well as the 5.0 & 5.8L engine harnesses run along the inside of the valve covers and the 7.5L harness runs inside the injectors so roughly 90% is a drop on. Just be sure your 8 injector control wires stay with the correct injectors. TPS, IAC and EGR position (which you aren't using) will fit, IAC & EGR are probably too long, TPS may or may not fit exactly. If you start with Huck's engine harness as a pattern, then switch the injector control wires in from the 5.0L one it should work. On the ICM, the different wire is on pin #4 of the TFI module (wiring diagram shows it as #3) instead of the R/LB wire it is a Y/BK and it goes to pin #48 of the 104 pin EEC connector. Here is a plug for a distributor mounted 2.9L Ranger: Here is one for a remote mounted gray module from a 1990 F250 (big ugly): Here are the other ends, big terminals are both on the R/LG wire probably Power relay and Fuel pump relay, other six are to one or more of the four engine to front harness eight pin connectors:

I have some wires, plugs and even the shielding for the modules. I will grab them and bring them in.

There is thermal paste between the module and the heat sink. One minor issue, there are two styles of modules as far as the way they function. That one is called a "push start" as it uses a signal from the starting circuit to "push" the dwell. The other is called a"CCD" for Computer Controlled Dwell and is black. That is the one the EEC-V uses. Here are the 4 different variations (2 are distributor mounted and 2 are remote mounted): As far as location, since your EEC box will be where the 1985/86 ones were mounted, the TFI can go where ever it is convenient. The inner fender location was probably chosen as there is enough air exhausting from the engine compartment to keep it from overheating. The only thing I would do is come up with a heat shield between the module/heat sink and the headers to block the radiant heat at highway speeds. FWIW, when I blew a heater core in my Shelby, I had to drive it a couple of times with the heater casing out. Those Hooker headers were orange at the heads, going down to red and finally fading at 60 mph. A lot of heat!

Speaking of the ignition module, where does it mount? Inner rear of the left front fender on a heat sink. Ford moved all of them there starting in 1990. It is almost under the Speed Control. There should be a picture in the 1996 EVTM.

2002 Chrysler T&C 3.3L. It is called an IPM Fuse & Relay Center. It is pivoted so it can be unplugged then removed.

Gary, since you seem to like over engineered and overbuilt systems, maybe you need this PDC: It might barely have enough fuses and relays for you.

I was just pointing out how Ford did it along with all the other strange wiring on these trucks. R/LG under hood is one item, what else does it or the W/LB-H power? The later ignition switches I believe have a start and run combined feed. Looking at 1990 it does, at the ignition switch plug wiring. Just splice the two wires together in the harness under the dash, that's what Ford did as the 1990 ignition switch appears very similar to the 1985/86 one. The resistance wire might be plugged in the way it was on my Shelby and Falcon, in which case it ends where it plugs in will plug together to bypass it.

Gary, use the 5.0L EFI wiring for the R/LG power. Because of the way your ignition switch is wired the resistance wire is in the R/LG circuit in run. On the EFI system the R/LG and W LB-H are spliced together in the TFI system feed. Use the plugs or cut and splice them together.

Exactly what I suspected "Made in China". Can I get you to try some tests, first do you have a multimeter or maybe a test light? If so, then first, starter disconnected from the battery feed, wrap the starter end in a shop rag or similar so it can't short if you took it loose there. Key on, jump the S to battery, relay should make a solid "clunk" and I terminal and starter terminal should be live with battery voltage. Remove the jumper, if the starter and I terminals do not immediately loose power, go get a new relay as you have found the problem. If this test passes, you now need either a powered test light or multimeter. Using the light or meter, measure the resistance from I to the starter stud on the relay, it should be an open circuit as they are two separate contacts internally. The next one is more fun, take the positive cable off the battery, measure resistance across the relay main studs and to I. Using a jumper, activate the relay without the battery positive connected to it and again measure the resistance across and to I, it should be near 0 ohms. Leaving the meter connected, remove power from the S terminal and see again, if the relay "hangs" engaged. This is your homework assignment for tonight.

Ok, first things first, picture shows the old style Ford starter relay, Darth had and still does have the newer flat style relay. On the relay on your truck, the two small terminals, are they labeled? They should have S and I on them. The reason I ask, AMC used a similar relay, but the two small terminals were 1 & 2 in I remember correctly. They are the two ends of the coil as AMC was using Chrysler Torqueflite transmissions that have a single contact for the starter relay as a center pin. This grounds the relay allowing the starter to operate. The other item, I am using a Precision Certi-Pro starter on Darth (second one first finally died about a year ago), I have no idea where the DB is made, but 3226 is the correct number for the automatic transmission one (3225 is for manual transmissions). I would start with a correct starter relay as I feel it is probably the wrong one or is shorted internally. Here is the way Darth's looks (battery cables have been changed to the actual later style since that picture was taken). The small copper colored stud behind the molded cable connection is the I terminal and isn't used with EFI.

Sensitive enough that if I set it down on the table, it will read below 0.

Do you still have the dual yellow wire portion that came through the passenger side firewall under the HVAC casing? It went to a plastic plug (C144) near the starter relay. That is the inertia switch wiring.

Here is one of the Magnehelic Gauges, it needs the plastic replaced. Note the range on it, 0 - 2" H2O.

So Wiley, when will we know, and does the Road Runner know?

And, as reported elsewhere, the $18 XL3F MAF sensor came in today, so now I have two of those. And it seems like that would be a good way to go since I have a spare and they appear to be plentiful. But, they fit the plastic housing, not the aluminum one that I powder coated, so I decided I needed to insulate that housing to keep up the theme. Here 'tis: Question: Why do I need any more connectors, like one through the firewall to the ECU? When I extend the wires to the ECU I'll pass them through the grommet that goes in the firewall. Then the ECU connector can be fed through the firewall, the grommet put in place, and all of the connections under the hood made. So if that harness needs to come out you just reverse the procedure. Yes, that was how Ford did the EFI 302s in 1985/86. The EEC-V ECU is the same size physically as the EEC-IV one. Biggest difference for you is the relays are in the PDC not one next the the ECU and one on the left side firewall. In that rat's nest, do you have an inertia switch, or is the original hot fuel package one still on the heater duct? If you do not have one I have at least one later model spare, on Darth it mounts behind the left kick panel.

Yes, and the conduit and PVC pipe pieces.

Possibly, fun would be switching them without disturbing the settings, I am not sure they would work well in series. It would also be interesting to compare the two different air filter setups, factory vs my original home made one.

If you want the integral ACT sensor you need a YC2F-12B579-BA or similar. That is the one from the 2003 E250 5.4L. I just did some playing with it, Fluke 75 connected to E & F, gives me a resistance reading, apply a little warm air and the value decreases. 2nd trial, power to A, ground to B, Fluke - to C, + to D. Applied 14 VDC to C & D, Fluke read around 0.03 VDC, blow some air through the sensor inlet and output went up to around 2.3/2.4 VDC. I think I can come up with a way to flow these, but you would still need some sort of standard to establish actual flow. I have an old Craftsman shop vac that was my dad's. It has a 3" hose and will pick up anything you get it near including water. Some PVC or similar plumbing, one of which would be a 3" ball valve as a throttle, a could more 3/4" valves (more standard ones) to serve as trimmers on either side of the ball valve. I have two nice Magnehelic vacuum/pressure gauges that I have for adjusting the VV carburetors, one is a very low one which teed to the MAF side of the apparatus would provide an indication of approaching/reaching max airflow capability.

Those may go into the exhaust ports and would be for the smoke grinder (Thermactor system) if they are threaded. If not threaded do as Gary recommends. If your truck does not have that, they can be plugged. They should be a 7/16-20 thread, but could be 3/8-24. Which ever they are get six headless Allen screws (set screws are good due to the point) and put them in tightly.

Interesting to see that the MEL used the FE valve arrangement while the W-blocks used the porcupine arrangement that was made famous by the 396. My 348 didn't have as much torque as that 430, but it did have a lot. I could lay the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft over at any time with a full-throttle run. And taking off from idle required no gas whatsoever - ease the clutch out in first, shift to second, and you'd idle down the street at 17 MPH. And with the 3.08 gears it cruised at 100 easily. Now, if I can just get this EFI system going properly I suspect Big Blue's 460 will become my new favorite engine. In carb'd form it ran well, but seeing what was happening to the AFR I know there was a lot of performance and efficiency (note that I didn't use the word "economy") left on the table. So I'm really looking forward to seeing the EEC-V computer doing its thing. Remind me, please, how to do data logging with Binary Editor. Or, does it not do it? Biggest difference, the MEL had no paired ports, they were just like the Windsors, 335 and 385 engines alternated E and I placement. The one I had, having been a race engine, had polished intake ports and an Algon injection system with it. You could almost reach in an intake port and grab the valve. Three thermostats to help with warmup, two in the front of each cylinder bank (140°) and one at the front of the intake manifold (180°).

Thanks! That looks like what I need for it. Ordered a sheet this morning.

The air valve was still in there, it would just open further once the secondaries opened. The Lincoln AFB was about the same size as the ones the 409 single 4 barrel and the Pontiac 421s used, probably around 700-750 cfm. The 1958 MEL engine (Google it, especially the 1958 Super Marauder) was a monster, 375 hp at 4600 rpm, 490 ft-lbs torque at 3100 rpm, Super Marauder was the first factory 400 hp engine. I found out quickly why a lot of those engines were fitted with a torque link. They could and did wring axles, drive shafts etc. from the torque. 4.3" bore, 3.7" stroke so smaller bore and longer stroke than a 429 Deck angle was 10° where the Chevy was 16°. I had an issue even though the car was never finished, get on it, and it would pull the crankcase breather cap off against the battery. I used stock 1958 Ford/Edsel/Mercury mounts, but since the cars these engines were installed in had longer front frames than the Ford, I modified the frame perches by welding a 1/4" thick plate underneath the perch on the tubular cross member to move the mounts forward about 3" and down 3/16". This put the big racing oil pan sump ahead of the crossmember and it's bottom was flush with it. The MEL sat at a more pronounced angle in the frame, since I had an EDJ (part prefix for the MEL) intake I set it in place and adjusted the back of the engine so the carburetor flange was level. Due to the radiator location between the hood springs (front hinged) there was no reaching a cap, I used an expansion tank from a 61-64 FE engine and it fit perfectly, right next to the fuel pump.

I'm willing to pay for it, even at Amazon's prices, I hate to buy a big roll and not use but a small amount.

Ford and GM are both very good with that, I found in doing some work on a 1958 Country Squire (I was building it to run the Cannonball Baker) that installing a later steering column, all the turn signal colors were the same. That was an interesting project, engine was a ex NASCAR 430 MEL, .030 over, big popup pistons (Slant deck block like a Chevy W block), solid lifter cam of unknown specs, seemed best at .018" cold clearance. 4 speed single coupling Hydramatic on a B&M adapter. 2.69:1 gear and using 235/75R15 Michelin radials. 1973 Galaxy front disc brakes, a big copper brass cross flow radiator mounted in front of the normal location due to the size of the MEL block. Crank mounted PS pump, hydraulic wipers. I had a local shop in NN build me an exhaust system using 2.5" mandrel bends with an H pipe as the MEL has no exhaust crossover. I built the throttle linkage to correctly operate the TV lever on the Hydramatic, with a 1961-65 Lincoln throttle relay bracket and bell crank. WOT, the TV lever was at the detent, push further and the bracket would drop down 1/2" against a spring, pulling the Hydramatic TV lever through the detent. Engine idled at 650, below that it would idle, but stumble, 1963-65 Lincoln AFB with the air valve stops removed so it would open against the secondary throttle plates. From a standing start, one car length and then start spinning the rear wheels. Unfortunately when my father sold Preston out from under me, the car was stored at a friend's shop. I went to check the antifreeze and he and his business along with the car were gone.