85lebaront2

I answered that. It currently is connected by a hose to the nipple on the back of the plenum. Once I put the new engine in F3TZ-6C324-B will be connected to (a) the back of the plenum (b) the screw in PCV valve on the right valve cover and © to the VMV (vapor management valve) mounted on the HVAC casing with a hose.

Right now it is to the back of the upper plenum, which is where it is supposed to go. On the new engine it will use this: It has the connection on the front for the 1996 EVAP system VMV and the tee is for the PCV valve, elbow to back of the upper plenum.

That looks nice, did you powder coat them? Item on powder coating the MAF body, only do the outside, you do not want to do anything inside as it might very well change the calibration.

Gary, the TFI system without the computer (SPOUT unplugged) fires on the leading edge of the shutter vane entering the HEP slot. That is why if you measure them the leading edges of all 8 vanes are exactly 45° apart. For setting initial timing before starting, bring the engine to where you want it to fire, then key on, using a test spark plug or similar, turn the distributor body counter clockwise until the HEP is between the vanes, now just like we used to do with breaker points, slowly turn the distributor body clockwise until the coil fires. You may want to use a cap clip as a reference against the manifold if you want to make a few runs and split the difference if any. This should get you within 1 - 2° of your desired setting.

Gary, that should be ok, the critical part is having #1 on #1 tower so the shutter is correctly positioned. As long as the cap clips will still work with the temperature sensor bulb installed. I do see an issue, ECT is not yet installed and it normally goes where your gauge sender is (see my picture, front white shell is ECT, rear one is ACT for SD system) then the Gauge sender goes where your present mechanical gauge sender is screwed in. I assume that will be going into the new thermostat housing?

Ok, since there was only one question, there is a black plastic line that goes from the FPR to the front vacuum "tree".

I believe mine was for a 1993 up w/cruise, yours may be different as it matches the hydroboost or newer as the 1998 up I believe had the cancel switch underneath. Yes, it is the Kelsey-Hayes unit that you scanned the instructions from, yes scotch locks, that is the Ford pigtail for the 1996 harness (tow package wiring seems to either be standard or the donor had it) and it came with those and instructions for using them. The ground is added as the original installation on the controller didn't have one. I'm not sure it's even needed on that controller as it isn't in the instructions as far as I remember. That controller has been in Darth since not long after I bought him, he had an electronic one and I was going to keep it until I hit a rough area on US 17 in York County VA just before a red traffic signal. Trailer brakes pulsed so badly I thought I was going to break something. I went to Hitch Headquarters in Hampton VA and paid $60 for that one. A newer electronic one that is supposed to be as good is the Genesis that I installed on my 2009 Flex which has the factory tow package including the engine oil cooler.

Welcome to the group! I was a Motor Transport Chief USMCR and drove our M543A2C. I have owned my Bullnose since April 1994. Nice looking Bronco!

I got mine from AutoZone in Hampton VA. Before the question on the brake line gets asked, here's what it goes to:

Ok, first, the "fire starter" switch is the safety cancel switch that if the brake light switch doesn't work. It opens the feed to the electric clutch inside the cruise control servo that couples the cable pulley to the internal gear train. When the hydraulic switch opens it dumps the cable back to idle. If you are worried about it, first, there is a recall switch with an included adapter harness, second you can move the power source from direct battery to ignition switched. On your temperature gauge, yes that thermostat housing should work. Warmup, 720 lbs of cast iron and 20-22 qts of coolant takes a while to warm up at 15° F, believe me, then figure how long it takes to heat up a crew cab. Good side, it also stays warm for a long time. Trivia item, back in 1958, the MEL engines, at least the 430ci one used 3 thermostats to facilitate warm up. There were two 140° ones in the front of the block and a single 180° one in the intake. Coolant flowed through two large cups in the front of the block, up into the front of the heads first, while the block thermostats stayed closed. The coolant went through the heads, a very small amount was allowed into the intake manifold passages to allow air bleeding. The main flow entered the back of the intake and heated it (no exhaust crossover). This system allowed those huge lumps of iron to warm up fairly quickly by not circulating through the block until the coolant there reached 140°. 430s weighed 740 lbs dry, possibly without exhaust manifolds too.

He has a lot of good information and parts. The FoMoCo, later Autolite and later Motorcraft two barrels are extremely simple, good working carburetors. They have one of the best booster venturii designs of any carburetor. Some of the ones built from 1975 up have a pair of metering rods in the air bleeds that can be used to lean or enrich the main mixture. These are actuated by a small cam in the center of the throttle shaft.

Gary, speed control wiring uses the same circuits as the older ones, same resistors even. It does not connect to the ECM at all. Newer trucks with drive by wire use the throttle actuator for cruise. You need the plug for the later speed control servo and a mating piece for the old plug, or simply splice them. Servo mounts same place as the vacuum one and since the plug should be there it is just a matter of a short jumper harness to make it work You need the emergency cancel switch on the MC, it does the same thing the vacuum dump valves do on the current system. I would look at the clutch safety switch and see if it has a normally closed set of contacts that could be run in series with the hydraulic cancel switch. The way the electronic cruise control works, there is a magnetic clutch that is fed through the cancel switch which opens on brake pressure thus releasing the cable to let the throttle close. Resume re-activates it and reopens the throttle.

I thought having that link might be useful. The top of his chart is Accel injectors. The reason the fellow told my engine builder to use the Ford Racing 30#/hr injectors was they atomize the fuel better than most others. My personal feelings on Accel mirror yours on Mr. Gasket, ie, not NO but H**L NO on anything I have or work on. When I was changing to the EFI heads on Darth, I sat a board across the corner of the hood up front, fender end padded. Once I got the head on each side loose, I had another across the area behind the latch to sit on while I pulled the head, swung it around and set it on the board. Then I would get down and lift it off, stick it on end on my HF hand truck and roll it into the garage (I was still in Newport News then). Take one EFI head, load it on the hand truck and roll it out to Darth when it was time to install it. Fuel pump wiring (a) you do not have the original low pressure pumps that needed the resistance wire, it probably isn't there as it was run along the inner side of the left valve cover on Darth. (b) Run the wire (238 DG/Y) to the directly through the inertia switch where it becomes 37 Y and bypass the resistance wire altogether and go to the tank selector relay with it. The high pressure pumps do not like low voltage. At least you are in the correct position to pray to the Ford gods kneeling on the radiator support. I saw an idea, a table on something like an engine stand or crane base so you could lie on it and reach right down to the engine/wiring/plumbing. On the wiring through the grommet, take a piece of a bicycle inner tube that you can stuff the wires through to some sort of plug/socket combination underhood so they can be disconnected for service. Once that is done, cut a hole in the rubber plug and push the sleeve and wires through line everything up, glue the sleeve to the plug, fill the inside next to the wires with RTV and tape the sleeve to the wires (and maybe a short loom) so everything stays where you want it too. One more thing, I hope you kept the throttle cable from Huck, it fits perfectly and is needed to get around to the right side of the throttle body.

Screen and gasket, I didn't use one in my original home built air cleaner setup, I have one now as it came with the CA air filter. My original I made something to seal it, maybe a rubber gasket. The screen may have been a protection for the MAF so it wouldn't get crapped up if the air filter element came apart. FWIW, since my original MAF came from a Lincoln Continental, no screen, but there was a "funnel" on the inlet side inside the filter. The one I pulled out of the 2003 E250 filter assembly was just held in with two self threading bolts into the plastic disc dividing the filter assembly. Here is the link to the injector flow tables: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

Don't know as to what the difference is, Cardone seems to have gotten into manufacturing or sourcing new parts. My only concern would be if the new parts are Chinese. The sensor is the piece on top and is replaceable as a separate part, the casting from the F5OF one has JAPAN cast into it just below the sensor mounting flange on the side opposite the electrical connector.

I was looking at the replacement sensor, it takes a tamperproof T20 to remove/replace, didn't see a Motorcraft one listed though. RA has them. I used it for verifying the mixture on mine, Adam Marrer highly recommended using one and since I had the existing bung, it wasn't a problem. When I first put the EFI system together I used the 1990 harness and EEC-IV computer and ran it as a bank fired speed density system so just used the 1990 O2 sensor location. It stays installed and I have it connected where the ABS computer plug is for an ignition on source.

Ok, F5OF is the CA spec 460 truck, was also used on Some mod motors including the V10. F8LF is from a 1995 Lincoln Continental with a 4.6L DOHC V8. XL3F is from a 1999 F series or Excursion with a V10 and is plastic. FWIW, I found a few F5OF ones on eBay today, used though. As for the downstream, I'm not either, but the location at the back end of the head pipes is where my wideband is installed. The Windsor blocks run the dual O2 sensors through the engine harness but the 460s don't, probably due to heat issues.

Ok, Gary, first, you do not need the downstream, it is the catalytic converter efficiency monitor, second neither of mine go through C110, left side comes off near it, right side comes off the other side of the front end harness, Hucks would have been where Big Ugly's was, back alongside the E4OD mount where the dual head pipes enter the catalytic converter. O2 sensor numbering convention, 11 is bank 1 sensor 1 (bank one being the one #1 cyl is on), 21 is bank 2 sensor 1, 12 is bank 1 sensor 2, or if only 3, post cat sensor for the system. These locations are critical for mixture control, if they are mixed up the system will go crazy trying to adjust idle and cruise mixture. On Darth, C1025 ends up right inner fender apron near the AC wiring, C1028 is in the front harness near the engine connector. Front harness for Darth: Left side O2 sensor connector, C1028, black plug is transmission connector: Right side O2 sensor connector, C1025: Left side O2 sensor: Right side O2 sensor, C1025 is up top on inner fender:

I don't see a reason for an adjustable FPR, I am not using one on Darth and will not on the new engine either. On the Chrysler, it was given to me along with the rare 2 piece intake and matching fuel rail. Trivia item for you, you know that I owned a 1966 Shelby GT350, after Ford fired Lee Iaccoca, he was hired to save Chrysler. His first step was to bring Chrysler Corporation kicking and screaming into the small car market with the Omni and Horizon. His next move was the K-car, which was a design Ford had been working on under Lee, with his firing, Ford scrapped the program and it basically followed Lee to Chrysler becoming the K-car. The first L bodies (Omni/Horizon) used a VW built 1.7L in-line 4, which slants back in the chassis. Manual transaxles were also sources from VW, automatics were developed based on the small engine Torqueflite. This made Chrysler's FWD chassis more like a European design than Ford and GM did. Once Chrysler's own 4, the 2.2L was in production, It was fairly quickly stuck in the L bodies as an option. In 1983 the VW sourced engine was replaced by a European Chrysler engine from Simca. Iaccoca saw the potential in building a "hot hatch" like some Japanese and European vehicles and asked Carrol Shelby if he would help (payback time for selling him engines for his Cobras). Shelby's first step was the Omni GLH by raising the compression and having Huntsville build a different spark computer for the 2.2L, giving it 110 HP. In 1984, Chrysler had started turbocharging the 2.2L engines in the higher line K-cars as they did not have a V6 to compete with GM and Ford in that market. When Shelby got involved he improved the turbo system from a draw through throttle before the turbo, to a blow through design after the turbo, he added an intercooler and designed the two piece intake for better flow than the log design Chrysler was using. This manifold was only used in 1987 and early 1988, then replaced with an easier to service one piece (also cheaper to make). I have that Shelby designed manifold on my convertible. I went from have a car Shelby designed to an engine he designed.

A suggestion on the air cleaner that may sound like sacrilege, when I had my Shelby, I was trying to find an air cleaner that would allow me to use the hood scoop as the inlet source. I found a GM one, I believe it was from a Holley equipt 396 or 427 Chevy. The bottom dropped down below the carburetor top, but was sculpted so it had clearance for the cathedral bowls. It used a 14" element, had a lower bowl that was probably 16 - 18" OD so the ram air adapter to seal against the hood slipped over it. I made a new seal for it (it was just a foam strip high enough to reach) and ran it until I put the dual Holley system on.

Yes, as I mentioned earlier, if you want an answer on adjustable vs stock FPR, contact Core Tuning as they wrote the tuning software, BE.

Yes, C101 is the connector next to the PDC that the engine harness goes to.

If you look at the EEC information I sent you, the circuits and colors are in the spreadsheet. I have a 42 way male/female plug between the front harness and the engine harness so the harnesses can be easily separated during service, like removing and replacing the left valve cover. If you have the 1996 EVTM, the EEC pinouts and the 42 way (C101) are there, just be careful in reading them, pay attention to the asterisked notes where you find them. One other item, the ignition circuits are shielded, both from the distributor and the TFI module to the EEC. Those may be fun to locate. Any older truck with the remote TFI module, doesn't have to be a 460, will have it. 1990-96/7 are the years and you want a black module for EEC-V when you get one and bite the bullet and buy Motorcraft on that.

The Chrysler has one, Darth is going to stay with the fixed one. I would ask Core Tuning for their input, EFI tuning is what they do.

So my question is why would I want an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Scotty said I should adjust the pressure to between 42 and 46 psi, and the Aeromotive instructions say the factory setting is usually 43. And Scotty says I should tune that setting using a wideband AFR meter. Why? Won't the EFI system adjust the AFR to match whatever set point I program it to, regardless of fuel pressure? Why wouldn't I use a stock regulator ($30 - $55) and let the computer dial the AFR in? Factory specs are: KOEO 35 - 45 psi KOER 30 - 40 psi The system will adjust the injector pulse width as needed at idle and cruise conditions to achieve the proper AFR for the 14:1 desired. Under low manifold vacuum conditions, high throttle etc. where the O2 sensors are not effective and do not control the mixture. The Programming in the EEC is set to put the mixture at 12.5:1 based on injector size and expected fuel pressure. Raising the fuel pressure does two things, increases the atomization of the fuel and increases the volume delivered. The reason for the vacuum signal is so the differential pressure across the injector to manifold is constant. On my Chrysler, the static pressure is 53 - 57 psi, when the 15 psi boost comes on the resulting pressure is 68 - 72 psi (you wonder why the system wants to leak?).