85lebaront2

Probably so. I used it because of the E4OD in Darth.

I am searching for some Vinyl "contact paper" in a walnut grain for my T2K-CAR project. I only need a piece about 18" X 8" as it will go on a pair of long narrow switch plates. Here is the post from my T2K-CAR thread: I am trying to find some walnut grain vinyl contact paper for the switch plates in the door armrests. They originally have aluminum with black letters for the window switches. I modified the driver's side to relocate the power seat switch and the passenger side will have a blank piece as the window switches are now in the console. The only walnut grain I have found is on Amazon and is a roughly 10' long roll.

You need 140 backup lamps, 298 power for backup lamps, 784 as it tells the EEC you are in low range (may not be needed as it possibly keeps from engine over rev with the E4OD), 210 if you have 4X4 and Low range indicators.

Well, the top hasn't happened yet, weather has been somewhat atrocious, rain, snow, temperatures in the teens, wind in the 20s. It will be done at some point. In the mean time, I am trying to find some walnut grain vinyl contact paper for the switch plates in the door armrests. They originally have aluminum with black letters for the window switches. I modified the driver's side to relocate the power seat switch and the passenger side will have a blank piece as the window switches are now in the console. The only walnut grain I have found is on Amazon and is a roughly 10' long roll.

I would use it the way the 1996 wiring is, because the engine harness all comes through C101 so if for any reason the intake has to come off, it's one simple disconnect for everything.

AC cycling pressure switch, the one in the picture is probably C106 and the wire should be long enough to go from C101 to the HVAC wiring on the other side of the truck. On the 85 it would have been the wire running along the suction hose to the compressor. It goes from a plug near the HVAC system and connects to the output side of the cycling pressure switch. Looks like it is BK/Y H on the 1985 and it went directly to the compressor clutch coil in 1985.

The inlet fitting, if it is the long one seen here in the red circle is a filter, not a paper one, but a fine mesh screen.

Welcome! We will endeavor to assist you as much as possible.

On the misfire detector, good luck, I have been trying to find the trigger for Darth, it is part of the counterweight at the front of the engine, then the timing cover is different to hold the sensor. Only used on OBD-II CA spec under 14000 gvwr trucks. Apparently about as common as hen's teeth.

I didn't remember you had done that, should be no issues then. Darth's is 1990, which is still pretty much the same.

I was thinking of something that may be a problem once everything is converted. Ford fuel supply system 1985-1989: One or two in-tank low pressure pumps. A frame mounted reservoir and switching valve combination (1985-86 containing a filter) A high pressure Bosch pump drawing from the reservoir feeding the fuel rail at the front left of the engine. These systems use the reservoir and switching valve to purge air from the fuel before the HP pump picks it up. Ford fuel supply system 1990-1996: One or two high pressure Fuel Pump Modules that contain a submerged high pressure pump and a siphon jet to keep the open top module full of fuel. These systems use the siphon jet to continuously overfill the pump module so the pump always has fuel. I do know from personal experience with Darth, that the hot fuel handling system and the later fuel pump module system, will starve for fuel on a long uphill run with a low fuel level in the front tank. Fuel slosh is generally not a problem as the early system allows air drawn in by the in-tank pump to purge and be returned to the tank and the later system, the siphon jet will quickly refill the module "bowl". BB does not have either the original three pump system nor the later fuel pump modules, I believe what did was put in the high pressure pumps that can be used to replace the ones in the fuel pump modules rather than the correct very low pressure pumps for the hot fuel handling package. Fuel slosh right now with the carburetor is not an issue as (a) you have a return line and (b) a small amount of air won't cause a huge issue, especially at a fair amount of throttle. With the EFI system, a slug of air becomes a royal PITA as the injectors don't handle it well and the pump will not maintain pressure until it is drawing liquid in again. FWIW, that is why I was recommending using the 1985-89 fuel system layout, partially because at that point no one knew what pumps were installed.

Gary, EFI fuel system NO RESISTANCE WIRE is used. Forget the 1985 hot fuel handling diagrams completely and use the 1985/86 EFI 5.0L without the frame mounted HP pump is the best way I can tell you. I did Darth using the 1990 F250 wiring, adding 35" to the front of the chassis harness and then getting a 24 pin chassis harness plug and as much of the harness as I could easily reach to complete the connections. Since you are staying with the earlier wiring, I would suggest maybe using what Ford did from 1988 - 1991, 4 8 pin round color coded male/female plugs where the front underhood harness connected the the chassis harness. I have an assortment and the pin/socket terminals to make up nice weatherproof connections.

A Holley power valve usually had it stamped on the side of the hex for the wrench. It will be a number like 65, 85, 105. Sick a decimal in front of the last digit (usually a 5) for the value in inches for vacuum.

What does the emission label say for spark plugs? For example, Darth's says ASF-42 gap .044-.046

Measure twice and cut once! Now do you understand why I salvage every piece of harness from anything I strip? For the most part my harnii have the correct colors throughout. After working on a 1970 Rover 3500 where the wires were all white, and colour tagged only at the ends (Joe Lucas was alive and well and resided in the harnii) I made it a point to do that as much as possible. Here was my first major harness rework job, converting my 1985 LeBaron from the 2.6L with a cracked head to a 2.2L TurboII engine that had been in a 1987 LeBaron 4 dr sedan (still a K car). This was 8 May 2004.

The problem I ran into was Holley has discontinued the two stage power valves that were originally fitted to these carburetors. The two stage had an orifice that opened around 10.5" manifold vacuum or essentially at part throttle, the main enrichment was at around 6" manifold vacuum basically WOT. The idea was to allow the carburetor to be jetted leaner for "economy" and emissions, but enrich the mixture a little during part throttle to prevent stumble and the need to open further. Carter used the same concept for Chrysler by using a few changed parts in the metering system to give a two stage enrichment. Both systems were stopgaps by the respective factories and suppliers to meet EPA standards until their EFI systems were on-line. What you will end up with is a compromise, either an earlier enrichment, or possibly a lean stumble until the valve opens.

Welcome to the group. That is definitely a good looking truck! We actually have a Florida Man emoji after Gary Lewis bought a 1985 F250 that Larry, Moe and Curly must have worked on. Poor guy that owned it had put a ton of money in it and couldn't even drive it. I have owned my Bullnose since April 1994, so they are habit forming, just be warned. They don't have all the amenities of newer trucks, don't always ride as nicely nor handle quite as well. The 300 six, only issues with them were the original emission systems used pre-EFI (1988 up). If everything is there it runs great and gets tolerable gas mileage, weak spot is the ignition module located on the side of the distributor, heat will kill it periodically. Your reference to no emission testing makes suspect your truck has it removed and if it was done right, essentially turns it into a late 70s style (I had a 1977 F150 with the 300). Gary and I have the opposite extreme on gas engines, 460s in both our trucks that are now far from the way they left the factories. Both have been converted to EFI, his has a ZF 5 speed and mine an E4OD automatic, neither of which were available in the Bullnose models.

Looks to me like he's describing that screen in our EEC-V systems, the one that looks like this: The factory 460 air filter has one, but it is essentially a screen. The 1995 Lincoln Continental MAF and the 2003 E250 5.4L both had/have a curved "horn" like a carburetor velocity stack. The 1996 Chevy 454 MAF has what appears to be a screen on it, both sides, but if could be the actual sensor. The modified Windsor MAF air filter I made has the horn from the inside of the Lincoln Continental air filter. On the original Lincoln Continental and the E250 the filter elements are round and butt against the disc the MAF is attached to inside the assembly so the air is pretty much straight going into the MAF, on the Windsor air filter, pretty much the same as the MAF sits above the lid face. The 460 one sits below the lid face and has a ledge across the inlet duct so the screen may be needed to smooth the flow even though the opening is asymmetric, with the bottom of the flange about 12mm above the bottom of the MAF housing. It would be interesting if I still had access to the air flow bench we had in the lab for calibrating anemometers so I could maybe do some comparisons of MAF styles (plastic vs metal) and inlet configurations.

It goes to the LG (circuit 511) from the brake light switch. It, on Darth, turns on the brake lights if I manually apply the trailer brakes with the controller. On the K-H it is the red wire on the brake controller, Blue is trailer brakes, Black is 12V 50 amp in, White is ground. I believe the same colors are used on my K-H Genesis on the Flex.

That is the trailer power option, go back to your exterior lights, the trailer stop and turn should be in there. Trailer/camper adapter pt 2 of 3 is the turn signal portion, the # 6 & 7 fuses are tapped of the rear stop/turn circuits inside the PDC.

Glad it all worked out. One of the reasons I am not a huge fan of "factory rebuilt" carburetors, I used to sell scrap carbs to a company out of New York who sold cores to rebuilders like Cardone. I know that the stuff we sold the core supplier was junk that wasn't easily repairable as we rebuilt a lot in-house for resale and a lot of it was stick something together from leftover parts to provide some resemblance to a rebuildable core. That is why the numbers get ground off during the rebuilding process, so the original application can't be determined. You apparently got a decent quality rebuild and unlike the Chinese clones have a better chance of warranty support.

Ok, in my case, (a) Darth is a DRW truck and as such has the clearance lights on the rear fenders and they are fed by the marker and trailer running lamps relay (b) trailer backup lamps, unless you actually have a trailer with them, probably not needed, but could be used for high power backup lamps so as not to overload the transmission switch. © trailer stop and turn are fused using fuses 6 & 7, this prevents loosing stop and turn on the truck, you have a set on the firewall (I had a similar setup on Darth before updating). I used the L & R truck signals to operate relays behind my PDC on it's mounting bracket, that take a battery feed and then run the trailer feed through fuses 6 & 7. Fog lights, good idea! (d) Trailer battery charge relay, on a travel trailer used to charge the house batteries, can be used to charge a trailer breakaway battery or an electric winch power battery.Hope this helps.

I have not had any issues with heat on the air inlet system, just the engine getting hot in creep and beep traffic in August while running the AC. Yes, IAT will go up to around 200° under those conditions, but as soon as the flow rate increases it will drop back to ambient (98° that day).

No problem, I completely redid the wiring on my truck, everything is pretty much 1996 now I learned how to get them apart, the ones that do come apart. Before you go looking for a fusible link, see if you can find the diode in the harness, Ford eliminated them in the newer trucks so it may have been a high failure item. If you can locate it, jumper it across and see if the priming function works then. If it does, you're good to go with it.

Yes, the diagram gives the size, just be sure to connect it to the "I" terminal.