85lebaront2

Shame you didn't have a 1985/86 with either a feedback carb or EFI to snag the EEC mount from. The EEC-V case is the same size as the EEC-IV so it would be a simple slip it in and I think two screws that clamp it in place.

Dave, that is not real surprising as I had heard for years that the Land Cruiser 6 was a copy of the old Chevy 235 engine.

To go back a few days, remember the MEL 430 I told you about? Here is an article on the car that that driver followed on with, he was from Norfolk VA and the 430 was in a shop in Hampton VA. A friend got it after I bailed another friend out on a 430 he had sold that turned out needing a crank. He was never able to find another one, the 1958/59 430s had forged cranks. I mentioned needing one to a real great machinist (did a lot of work for local racers) and he dug up that ex NASCAR 430, cost, come get it out of the way. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2022/03/03/1963-mercury-marauder-bud-moore-racecar-feature-0322?fbclid=IwAR3yEuwHZKQvrpmiud1JbAo2mNvBADTimHqyMTi4E3R5Zsi6AV4ipSWcnIM

It goes fore and aft with the plug down, I believe there may have been a mounting bracket, but do not have any to reference.

Gary, Ford mounted the EEC-IV units to the right of the steering column roughly in line with the firewall oval plug. They are mounted vertically with the 60 pin plug down and the EEC power relay adjacent on the bracket. The EEC-V case is the same size as the EEC-IV case as it was mounted in place of the EEC-IV starting in 1996. I would see if someone is scrapping a 1985/86 truck with any of the computer systems, or converting one to DS-II and non-feedback carburetor and get the mounting bracket. I didn't do that on Darth as I was changing the dash and was able to put his EEC where the 1992 up one sits by making a plate for the firewall to fairly closely match the later design.

There is definitely a fine line on the AOD throttle settings between "jerk your back teeth loose and hunt between 3 and 4 at 55 mph and ooze into each gear like a worn out turbo Hydramatic". Those of us who are old enough to have dealt with TV adjustments on the old 4 speed Hydramatics, especially the single coupling ones learned that the book adjustment will get you close, but you still have to do some "drive it and tweak it" fine tuning. The Roto-hydramatics are even worse, the shift from coupling to all mechanical is compounded by going from a roughly 3:1 gear to a little more than 1.5:1 gear so it is like skipping a gear. as a result the clutch pack takes a beating on those.

The FMX-based AOD replaced the C4. Like the C4, the AOD is a light-duty transmission but with a fourth overdrive gear. The E4OD replaced the C6. The E4OD is a heavy-duty transmission based on the C6 but with electronic controls and a fourth overdrive gear. And to continue the AOD story, it became the AOD-E when the gearset was modified to use a hydraulically locked converter, then became the 4R70W and finally the 4R75W as Ford changed their transmission IDs to make the fit and number of gears part of the model designation, same as GM did. Part of this is due to Ford and GM sharing transmissions (4R100 for Ford 4L100 for GM, 6F50 for Ford, 6T50 for GM). One on the things to also keep in mind is the intended use and base weight of the vehicle the transmission was used in. I had a 1970 1/2 Falcon station wagon which was roughly the same size/weight as an 80s LTD wagon, probably around 4000 lbs empty Look at your empty weight on Lucille. The other wagon I had (replacing the Falcon after my oldest son ripped the right rear fender open) was a 1971 Mercury Colony Park, a bit over 5200 lbs empty. Falcon had a 302 and C4 until my late wife blew 2nd gear in it. After that it had a small block pattern C6. The Mercury had a 429 2 barrel, which quickly grew 2 more once I found that the only difference mechanically was intake and carb. To put the comparison the rest of the way, when I acquired Darth in 1994, I figured I (a) no longer needed the Mercury wagon for towing trailers and (b) could carry 5 passengers in Darth. I only really lost the roof rack and rear jump seat capability. Darth weighs 6400 lbs (certified) empty including near fumes in both tanks but a 100 lb aluminum camper shell. I think my 1970 LTD Brougham 2dr weighed around 4800 lbs. On trucks, look at the GVW, for Darth it's 10K, since the truck was titled in Maine and they do not record weights, the clerk at the DMV branch just looked up the weight for an F350 crew cab and came up with 5500 lbs. I use regular, not T series VA plates on him as a result, the plates are for up to 7500 lbs GVW so 5500 + 2000 = 7500, work for me.

You should have driven my Shelby with the Detroit Locker, Shelby's choice for the cars so it could be used on the R models (SCCA and FIA rules regarding allowed changes). It drove the slowest turning wheel in a corner and the outside one unlocked and turned freely. When you straightened out and applied power, the car would shift sideways a bit, make a loud "bang" in the 9" center section. and then got straight. When a friend and I ran the car in a series of high speed events, we learned that you needed to be sure the front of the car was pointed where you wanted to go, because particularly in 1st or 2nd, the car was going where the hood was pointed once the locker engaged. The fact that that little 289 engine could actually lift the front end enough to get the wheels off the ground in 1st was part of it. As far as a very stout and extremely reliable unit, it was great, for someone not used to it, it usually scared the devil out of them, particularly if they were driving it.

That is a myth that just won't die. The 5.0/302 V8 actually produces more torque than the 4.9/300 six. The AOD was used in the F-Series trucks from 1980 all the way up to 1993. More torque at what rpm? the 300 is a low end torque engine and yes, at higher rpm the 302 probably does make more torque. If you look at several items on the transmissions you will see that on a C4, the 2nd gear servo for the 300 is the largest one that fit in the case, band is wider and there are more clutch discs in the forward and reverse/high clutch than any V8 application. I don't have the parts breakdown on the AOD, but used the 300 stuff to build a killer C4 back in 1967 for my 1964 Falcon with a 260 V8, 10.5:1 compression, Lunati Hydraulic cam equivalent to the HyPo 289 cam. 1 - 2 shift at part throttle was essentially instantaneous and would chirp the tires. WOT was very solid as was 2 - 3. Also, if torque wasn't the issue, why did Ford change to using the C6 and E4OD in place of the C4 and AOD, it sure wasn't for fuel economy as the internal drag of both are more than the C4 or AOD.

He did. he is no longer with LKQ, he is IT manager for Olympus Foreign Parts.

I would simply try the throttle body from your original carburetor on the upper 2/3 of the Chineseum one. Or if you feel you can get the throttle plate screws out, swapping only the actual throttle shaft only into the Chineseum one.

No, he is now in Martinsburg with his 3 rescue pit bulls.

Unfortunately my good source for AC stuff no longer works there.

Get a good picture of the carburetor throttle lever if you can, preferably with a scale against it. With all the strange things I have done with carburetor linkages I may be able to give you some help in finding a solution. I would also be extremely leery of those Chinese knock off 2100s, read this thread: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Choke-adjustments-and-Cheap-Chinese-carburetor-WARNING-tp112181.html I just noticed you have a rare beast, 300 with an AOD. I would definitely be very careful as the AOD/300 combination is a bit fragile due to the torque of the 300. Ford only used the AOD in the trucks for a short time replacing it with the E4OD after EFI and the E4OD became available, same reason the C4 was short lived and switched to the C6. In cars the AOD was used behind the 351W for a few years.

Lokar makes an excellent product. However, I was under the impression that carbureted engines had a throttle rod to the AOD transmissions.

Right end in the picture of the bare top of Dad's truck cowl is a hole that shape. I knew I remembered seeing one that shape on Darth. On the nut spinning, it probably stripped the T bolt when the trained monkeys on the assembly line tried to tighten it. I have some removed from old HVAC cases. Where was your truck built?

To quote Jim "Progress is good." It does sound a bit convoluted to me though. The convolute is a nice item to have, it flexes nicely and is easy to add or subtract wires from.

I wasn't talking about physically moving the switch, just the wiring. It goes through the firewall under the HVAC casing. Pull it through to the inside so you can tap the DG/Y wire near the EEC connector (C1027) for the relay output and run it through the firewall with the rest of the EEC to engine wiring and to the PK/B-H wire going to the tank selector relay common (would be 30 on a Bosch relay). Primary reason for leaving it where it is, that's where the owner's manual shows it.

I have seen a 3rd pump on a 460, 1988-89 models had the same 3 pump system all the pre-1990 EFI engines had.

I don't thing you're missing anything. First, the inertia switch for the 1992-96/7 trucks is in the right side kick panel area and the wiring to it is part of the dash harness (note it goes through C202) from what I remember the circuit is FPR to inertia switch, to tank selector switch to selected tank. I would take the pair of yellow wires, pass them back through the firewall and put the inertia switch where it is in series between the FPR and the tank selector relay feed (both of which are on the left side of the truck now). You could probably delete the relay if you wanted to run the pump feed wires to the switch, but keeping the relay may be simpler.

You can see in that picture the fiberglass repairs a friend did for me. The bolt access covers were scored at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach VA.

Years ago my son was given a PA 1968 F100. I was told by the previous owner (my nephew) that it needed a steering box (manual steering) as it was binding. Both front cab mounts were rusted as yours are. I believe I got some from J.C.Whitney, but I imagine there are other sources now. After replacing the cab mounts, the steering was fine. Access to the bolts is through a pair of oval plates, one on each side in the sloped area of the floor pan. you can see the driver's side in this picture (this is a crew cab floor pan)

That is interesting, on Darth that connector was on the right fender apron near the starter relay in fact I posted this picture for the member trying to troubleshoot the system on his truck.

I guess it was based on the book I had on the E4OD, it was dated 1988 and I figured that was when it was first released. Here is the updated MAF mounting on the air filter top along with the short harness. The reason for making it the way I did, the other air filter has a different ACT sensor so if I have a 6 pin plug on either, the whole assembly can be swapped fairly quickly. There will be a rubber gasket between the MAF and air filter top so no dust can be pulled in.

Gary, I think that might be a good point as that is how I would look for them if I was referred to the site by a link.