85lebaront2

My wideband is an Innovate and has an serial ouput that goes through an adapter into a USB port on my old dual boot MacBook Pro. Open your Binary Editor and on the displays section, select hardware. First be sure you OBDII block is checked. See if your wideband is shown, if not you may need to get in touch with Core Tuning to see about using it. On your displays panel, datalog will bring up a list, 3rd panel down, 2nd line is EVP (EGR Valve Position) and has the note it can be used for wideband.

Gary, when you read it, be sure to save it, I usually use the date as an ID, but whatever will make it easy to retrieve it later. You can open that and what you think was the correct configuration and do a side by side comparison. Once you get the initial bugs out and go drive it, you can datalog the parameters you want to monitor. On Darth I have the ability to add my wideband as an input so I can see what was going on. On the noisy rocker, shimming under it will make it looser clearance, what you probably need to do is check the clearance with the lifter collapsed against Ford's specifications. If you can pin down which one it is, it might be a bad lifter. Allowable limits: 0.075 - 0.175 in Desirable limits: 0.100 - 0.150 in From AllData

Looks and sounds pretty good, I like the quicker starts and shutdown. Key off = no ignition or fuel, so it stops.

Ok, first on your BE, go to home tab, then all scalars in the left hand pane. This will bring up everything in the center. Scroll down until you come to "EGR System Type" this needs to be set to "2" for no EGR which will disable it. Crankshaft position sensor malfunction. Do you have the misfire sensor installed and connected and the proper trigger? If you do not, then go down to the misfire area and see if it looks like mine. On idle speed, disconnect and plug the IAC inlet and the hose that feeds it and set the base idle to a little below where you want it to run with no AC on. Since you have a larger than stock TB, it may take some experimentation.

Best suggestion is to carefully remove the throttle shaft from the old Carter YFA and then do the same to the Chinesium one. Install your old throttle shaft into the Chinese carburetor using the Carter screws to attach the Chinese throttle plate. Be sure the plate is properly centered before you tighten them all the way.

Gary, I need to go start getting dinner ready (and feed the wireless doorbell) and will look at it in depth and see what looks wonky. Idle speed may be the stop screw set to high on the BBK throttle body.

The main trailer I'll be using at first is a UHaul Auto Transport and they only have the 4 pin flat connector. I'm installing the 4 flat/7 blade combo so that I have the option of hauling other stuff later. The UHaul has automatic surge brakes so my controller wont even be needed. I just wanted to have it wired correctly since it was already plumbed into my system. Good luck with it, I despise surge brakes and I am not a huge fan of the all electronic controllers.

#5 alive! :nabble_anim_jump:Excellent! How does it sound with einspritz rather than a vergasser?

Jim, ADT dimension for dashpot clearnce is in mm. APE dashpot dimension is in inches. Any bets the ADT label was for Canadian sales and APE was US sales. I know the APE was US as that is the label from Darth.

If the carburetor (a) doesn't have a blown power valve and (b) doesn't have a warped secondary metering body and © isn't flooding due to either a sunk float or overly high fuel level. I would check the evaporative system and bowl vents.

Fire extinguisher at hand (just in case).

Gee, that looks pretty familiar, sort of like this one that went with the vacuum line collection.

Happy Easter to all of you.

Very limited, and we have an update/backdate rule on the books. Specifically, if I install a newer engine in an older vehicle, it only has to meet the requirements for the year of the vehicle. Specific example, Darth is a 1986 F350 and is converted to MAF/SEFI as per the 1996/7 CA spec trucks, but, since a 1986 over 8500 lb GVW truck was not required to have a catalytic converter, I do not need one and the items affiliated with it are also not needed. Parts of the state do have stricter rules, the area around Washington DC at present and Richmond and Tidewater (SE VA) keep getting threatened with actual emission testing. I live in a mostly rural area where the major industries are Chicken processing plants (Perdue and Tyson). We do have one of the 4 US Spaceports at Wallops Island.

None actually which is why I am still looking for some of the CA specific parts. Misfire detector trigger, timing cover and misfire detector mount, EGR tube with the DPFE restrictor, DPFE sensor and EGR valve for that system.

ECU does not pull the starter relay in, circuit 32 is the starter relay feed from the ignition switch. It goes through either the CPP on a manual transmission or the neutral safety/manual lever position switch to ensure either the clutch is disengaged or the transmission is in N or P. Circuit 511 is brake lights (goes to 3rd brake light and turn signal switch), it goes to the ECU to tell it to unlock the Torque Converter Clutch. It goes through the clutch switch so the cruise control is cancelled when the brakes are applied. How it works when the clutch is pushed in is another story all together. 480/199 go through the CPP and 511 goes to the cruise control and with the clutch pedal pushed in so does 306. Like I said, I would like to have one to experiment with as far as timing of the contact pairs related to pedal travel.

Go to your starting system diagram, it shows all 3 of the CPP switches in the assembly. There are definitely some questions in my mind as to what happens inside that switch. The cruise control is supposed to cancel upon seeing 12V on the brake light circuit, but it also needs to cancel if the clutch pedal is depressed, otherwise as the truck slowed it would attempt to compensate by opening the throttle so something has to apply 12V to circuit 306 when just the clutch pedal is depressed. I don't have a CPP switch to play with, or I would experiment with it.

First gut reaction says "tabbed" as that is the old school way we found things. Standalone is probably the way to go due to search engines being the modern way and many younger enthusiasts are used to that method.

Are you sure it is D.O.N.E.? I see a few places you could stuff something else into

Mine is behind the transmission crossmember, and is in the hole the factory used on the E4OD trucks. You are correct in the use of a wye pipe, on the E4OD equipt trucks it is quite a piece.

Gary, 361 is power, 359 is signal return and is common to a lot of sensors. My wideband O2 sensor is where the 1990 single O2 sensor went, just in front of the catalytic flange (when used). I will send you the picture tomorrow.

See if these help any. The VPWR is the red wire (circuit 361) HO2S heater is the control circuit to the EEC (circuit 387 on right bank, circuit 388 on left bank) HO2S signal is the output to the EEC (circuit 74 on right bank, circuit 94 on left bank) SIG RTN is the low side and goes to the gray with red wire (circuit 359).

In the documentation is a set of instructions for a Kelsey-Hayes hydraulic actuated controller (mine) the wire colors sound the same, and there were only 3 wires originally. Here is the link: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/KELSEY-ELECTRIC-BRAKE-CONTROLLER-INSTALLATION-INSTRUCTIONS.html

Looks good, and quite professional! Be careful with balls of snakes, mix that with a rat's nest and you will have problems. Hopefully it will pass the smoke test, as I understand Lucas PN 530433 is on world wide back order.