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I was taught how to splice wires by a man with a Masters degree in electrical engineering from MIT. I have rewired a number of vehicles over the years and never had any major problems.

I use the waterproof heat-shrinkable connectors everywhere, even inside the cabin. Expensive, but I never had corrosion problem with these. I prefer this method more than the heat shrink sleeves. Maybe just a matter of taste? In all cases, no place for electric tape on my wiring! Good advice Gary, I'll remember that! I generally solder and heat shrink, and if I am splicing a harness with a number of wires, I will stagger the splices.

Not to Darth yet, but as a down the road addition between the 2000 Lincoln Continental seats. It is a middle row console from a 2009 Flex, the one that has a refrigerator/freezer in it. Unit runs on 12v through a 15 amp fuse when the ignition is on, and may be limited if the battery is low. Here is a picture with measurements: Front view, side flanges are 2" wide on each side and have two hold down M6X1.0 bolts with large flat washers. Rear has two from the side into a bracket on the floor: Front panel removed, you can see the control board and power/ground wiring: Cool/Freeze switch: Storage compartment lid (under the armrest pad): Inside the storage compartment: The section in front of the side mounting points is just to follow the floor pan step under the middle row of seats. There is nothing structural there, so anything in the way can be trimmed off.

Alright then, that settles that tuit de suite! Thanks Gary. I guess I'll wire in the ballast resistor. I also bought the Painless Wiring 21 circuit full chassis wiring harness kit, so everything will be new. If you want it to be less obvious, check out some of the Mustang restoration suppliers. The Mustangs used a resistance wire in the dash harness, but it plugged in at both ends. This was to facilitate a tachometer installation as Fords factory one used the positive side for the signal.

Many aftermarket manuals are very poor on wiring diagrams, and not just on Fords. Once you get things where you want them, do a proper splice on the wires, those crimp on connectors will get wet and the wires will corrode.

If you go to Rock Auto, you may be able to find something LKQ makes a lot of replacement tanks and they should be on there.

I had some fun with Jiffy lube several times. First was our 1955 Packard Patrician, thing had a load of grease fittings 6 + the king pins on each side of the front suspension, 2 on each tie rod and 2 on the idler arm, 1 on the pitman arm. Then there were 2 front torsion bar pivots and 2 rear, 2 levelizer bar pivots and 4 on the levelizer rods. 2 U-joints, the transmission shifter cross shaft had 1, so that is 28 that I can remember. Next was the 1981 Omni, they broke the vacuum line tee connecting to the air filter, then claimed they had never touched it. When asked how they checked the air filter, the tech said "we took it off and opened it" Bingo, that's how you broke the tee. Then "we greased your upper and lower ball joints" on a Macpherson strut suspension, give me a break! Final one was on Darth, full service including transmission (C6). They told me they couldn't drain the converter as a 1986 didn't have a drain plug. I told them if it didn't I would pay double for the service, if it did the service should be free. They didn't take that deal (I think someone figured out I knew better than they did).

I will, but it will be a while, I have to figure out whether I have a head, head gasket or intake leak and then decide on what to do about the issue.

Two things, first, no EFI 460 I have seen had a knock sensor. 302s until 1996 did. I have some information on knock sensors I will send you later. Sent, hopefully it will be of use. Second, the link to Decipha's transmission information is great! I now know where to go to keep the TCC engaged at closed throttle when coasting.

So I took that to mean it works with Tuner Pro RT. Obviously I misunderstood. In any event, I think I can work my way through Decipha's instructions well enough to figure out the problem with my idle. Gary, I didn't even realize he had a website, after I moved on and started using BE on the EEC-V systems, I really hadn't thought about him until you mentioned him.

So that answers the question - I'll stay with what I have. And now today's MPG test: 12.6 MPG. Why? Probably because we had winds in the 30 - 40 MPH range. While we did travel with the wind for maybe 50 of the 200+ miles, we were going directly across it for 100 miles and directly into it for the other 50 miles. And going across the wind certainly does impact drag. I looked around a bit for documentation on the effect of wind, and found this at the Freightliner site: "For every 10 mph of headwind or crosswind, fuel efficiency is reduced by as much as 13%." I'm sure that is meant for semis, but it does indicate that both a head wind as well as a cross wind significantly hurts fuel economy. And to put it into perspective, 12.6 is 10% off of 14.0 MPG. I was waiting for that. Moates Quarterhorse and TwEECer were devices used on EEC-IV systems. I knew of Decipha from back when I was on EEC Tuner.org and the old Yahoo group. I actually had a TwEECer I bought used, it goes on the J2 port on the inner end of the EEC case. Here's a screen shot of one of the programs you can use (or could use 7 years ago). The system I was helping the gentleman who built my engine was using for his Chevy system I found would also work on the EEC-V Fords.

If it is like Darth, there was a support for the exhaust system near the transmission cross member which I replaced with a newer design from Riff Raff Diesel as they were the only one showing it. In your picture the triangular mount where it attaches to the frame is visible. Darth had that near the front of the 35" long extension pipes for the exhaust. That is how Ford handled the 133" to 155" to 168" wheelbase changes and since Big Brother is a 168" wheelbase, there was probably a joint there and another 35" further back.

Gary, you're making me feel bad, here on Virginia's appendix, I have Fiber to the home from Eastern Shore of Virginia Broadband Authority. Since they are a government agency, there are no taxes and speeds are phenomenal, of course I am probably less than a mile from their headquarters on US 13 in Exmore. AT&T, we are looking to change our TV service to one Mary wants for a couple of women who were on Hallmark Channel and changed to one that Spectrum doesn't carry. This means either paying a lot more for phone or switching to another for landline as cell service is marginal here. AT&T looked to have the best package for landline service as Verizon is planning on ditching wired phone service.

My truck has a very similar one at the muffler and never had a catalytic converter.

It took me a minute, but I remember removing it on my '84 a couple years ago. You beat me to it, I was going to tell him it was a muffler bearing.

Bingo, 3 cherries! Exactly the picture needed!

That side is a bit of a pain due to the battery tray. There are a few very small hex head (7/32") screws along the wheel opening lip, two 10mm head ones up front under the battery tray that have to be taken out from the top, two more that may have 8mm heads diagonally from underneath in line with the inside panel on the fender and one at the back through a firewall tab under the HVAC case. One, maybe two vertically behind the wheel opening into the rocker panel area. If you can find the illustrations Gary Lewis put on the site it will help with fastener locations. On them, penetrating oil is your friend.

Since I added something on my signature, I guess an explanation is in order. LOBO is what a Canadian friend tagged me, Lord Of the Blue Oval as I have had mostly Fords with the exception of a few GM products and Chryslers, one independent (Packard) and some imports.

Insulating will help sitting with low air flow. One of my datalogs actually shows what happens once the truck is moving, the ACT pretty quickly comes down to ambient. This was before I installed the baffles around the radiator which separates the incoming air to the air filter from the radiator heat. Only time I ever had a problem was creeping on the approach to the Downtown Tunnel from Portsmouth into Norfolk, Darth got hot enough that the computer shut off the AC compressor and raised the idle. As a result I was putting him in Park every time traffic stopped. Ambient was over 100° with Rh around 90%.

If you have some dimensions on them, there is a fellow on the West coast who manufactures Poly Urethane bushings primarily for Chrysler FWD stuff. https://polybushings.com/ Johnny Spiva is the owner and tell him I referred you. He may have something that will work.

Should work, just keep your ears tuned for signs of detonation. Are you running regular or higher octane gas in BB? One of my goals is to be able to weigh the option of mid grade vs regular in Darth. Essentially see if I have to back off on total advance using regular, and if so what effect on fuel consumption will it have. With the current prices, the percentage difference is a lot smaller than it used to be so it may end up being a non-issue. Goal is to try to get Darth up around 14 highway which is what Matt gets with his V10 Excursion. Overall ratio between his 3.73 vs Darth's 3.55 and his larger OD tires is fairly close. Biggest difference is V10 is 413 ci vs Darth's will be 466 ci. V10 also does not have the low end "grunt" a 460 does, Matt was in 2nd towing a trailer with his 1986 F150 on it going over the Blue Ridge peak on US 17. Darth walked a similar load up the slopes of the CBBT in 3rd lockup at 54 mph.

Gary, you might want to look at what the timing is doing at the same points. If the computer is retarding the timing to prevent spark knock as you come up on the throttle your end result may be that the actual torque/HP stays the same. On Darth's new engine, there are a number of parameters that will need changing, higher displacement, bigger injectors, more cam etc. and I will be doing a lot of what you are right now. Fine tuning for the end result. Do keep in mind that when using my tune, that at moderate throttle I essentially have a manual transmission as long as my converter clutch is engaged, rpm will jump up roughly 500 rpm when it unlocks.

The reason for 4400 rpm, is that is my WOT upshift rpm on the E4OD. If you go back and look at that part of the tune you will see that. New engine may be set to 5000 or even 5500.

Looking good sir! Lag may be the time it takes for the exhaust stream to reach the O2 sensor and the older portion has cleared out. On Darth's WB I can definitely see the delay from "open throttle" to sensing the desired 12.5:1 for max power. Keep in mind Darth's WB is about where the middle of BB's transfer case sits as it is behind the E4OD mount crossmember.

Don't know, looks interesting though. My question is "how does the app receive it's data?". If through Bluetooth, then it obviously would require a transmitter or transceiver plugged into the OBD-II port. It is also probably configured to read and display the commonly needed parameters, not everything we read with BE.