85lebaront2

Ok, if you are pulling the radiator support what is going to hold the front of the fenders in place? Why not pull the front clip, take the cowl vent off so the hood will stand straight up, tie it there and then the engine only has to clear the crossmember to get it in. That is my plan when I do Darth's.

Ok, a couple of items to look at, the distributor, it has two advance systems a mechanical (RPM operated) and a vacuum (ported or manifold source). Mechanical - with the cap off the distributor, take the rotor and turn it counterclockwise, if it doesn't move, take the rotor off and put some penetrating oil down the hole in the advance mechanism. let it soak and continue until it moves and snaps back. Vacuum - engine running, se if the line going to the distributor has vacuum, if not, increase the rpm until it does. If you cannot get a vacuum signal, find a source (on the manifold if necessary) and try connecting it, rpm should increase, if not, the vacuum advance may be bad. Those are the two most likely issues, third would be, does it have a catalytic converter? If so is it possibly clogged? Fuel economy, 1986 F350 6400lb crew cab dually, 3.55 gear and C6 got me a solid 10 mpg except towing a 35 ft 10K 5th wheel, then 8 was normal. Since converting to MAF/SEFI and E4OD, since I have very low compression using E7TE heads on a carbureted short block, max of 12.5 running 70-75 on interstates.

How much free play (travel before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate) is there? Too much free play will let the assist spring (the one under the dash) go over center. It is designed to do this to reduce the effort needed to disengage and hold the clutch disengaged. I also agree with the suggestion to fully check the linkage. I had two Fords with mechanical clutch linkages ( both cars) and both developed a crack in the cross shaft (piece from frame to engine) which first gave me a hanging pedal and finally no pedal (push it down and it went "thud" and stayed there).

Probably not too long for me. Here on Virginia's appendix I do have really good high speed broadband internet (and it's tax free as it is a government agency).

Never having owned nor been into an 8.8" rear I don't have any thing to go on. That being said, the MGB Spicer and a GM 10 bolt similar to the 8.8" had dished thrust washers on the spider gears. I seem to remember they had a bronze face in the "cup" that the back of the spider gears rode on. Maybe these (if used) need replacing? The side gears on non-limited slip units also have thrust washers and since the side and spider gears are bevel gears, a change in either washer thickness from wear will increase the amount of clearance and play.

The drier is for 81 to match the 81 evap coil. The factory 81 compressor is the big York unit. The compressor I am using and the suction hose is for 85 system IIRC. I could not use the 85 drier as it would not bolt up to the evap coil. The later hose should run along the cowl to the direr and the fitting would be to the engine side. Because I have to use the 81 drier the hose fitting is on the fender side so the hose kind of run across the air filter housing on my 300 six. Now 2 years ago I used a new different drier and this hose and it all fit. I dont remember who's drier the old one was but this new one is a Murray and it is just a little different. Besides the hose fitting the low psi switch is also not in the same place and now hits the heater cut off valve but got it to fit. I have been using the truck the last few days and at 4am (77*f) I have to turn the temp up as it gets a little cool in the cab. On the way home it was 94* and the humidity 88%+ and with the fan on high, temp cold and set to Normal AC it was nice and cool in the cab. If I put it to MAX AC the air flow changes from dash to defrost more then on normal. Dave ---- ps: just re-reading this I just thought I bet I could have used the 85 evap coil and the 85 drier I bought 2 years ago and think the hose would run across the cowl like it should Ok, guys keep in mind Darth is a crew cab so has a cab close to the interior volume of a Durango as the seats are set up for 3 abreast at equal sized locations. I, as does Gary have the biggest physical sized gas engine Ford built after the MEL engines were discontinued. When I was doing my updating, first, I used a bunch of thermal barrier under the carpet, with a double layer over where the exhaust runs underneath. The 1996 Door panels also have a layer of insulation in them and I replaced the 1986 firewall pad with the thicker 1996 pad. I also have the fabric covered 1996 headliner so even though his roof is black I do not get a load of heat in through there. All side windows are tinted as is the rear sliding window. Under the rear slider is also carpeted. On the actual system, FS10 compressor with the small clutch pulley since Darth has a 3.55 gear and the E4OD. A 1994-97 multipass condenser and the 1996 evaporator and casing. New 1994-97 accumulator with the pressure switch set for 34° F with R134 and the correct (red I think) orifice tube for a crew cab in a high humidity area. Yes, he gets warm inside in creep and beep traffic, but once rolling you can almost hang meat in there. I generally come off max AC and then still end up moving off full cold.

Can you get a parts store or shop to measure the current draw on the hot starter? That will prove if it is the starter. If it is, I would highly recommend looking into a later model (90s) starter for your engine/transmission combination. Ford changed to a PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) starter that cranks much better with less current. No need to buy an overpriced "performance" starter when the factory already has one. There is a small bit of rewiring needed at the relay on the inner fender.

If you open the picture on a computer, you can rotate it as needed before posting and also crop/reduce size etc. then post. I had to remove my nice Abode Photoshop 6 as Adobe decided that I no longer owned it, but now needed to lease it at $14.99/month. Just like Micro$oft, they all are getting greedier.

Gary, I can. I am admin on two Ford related groups, 429/460 and Ford Dually trucks.

Not only is it 37 years old, it was designed for R12, not R134. Darth's original system was great, the conversion was adequate but never quite as good as the original. Now you understand why I put an entire 1996 crew cab system in Darth, bigger, multipass condenser and bigger evaporator also.

Sounds at least reasonable. I need to extract the key from the crank to see what it looks like. I have a woodruff key assortment I bought at Fastenal years ago. I also need to figure out how far out the sprocket needs to sit on the crank snout to be in the same plane as the cam sprockets. It may end up as a stub shaft that goes over the crank snout with the sprocket being a press fit and the key for it being separate form the existing key. Wherever the key ends up will be what I have as not having all the identical pieces of the 2.4L timing system may (and probably will) vary the actual location of the cam gears +/- a half tooth. Crank pulleys, 2.2/2.5L are held onto the sprocket with 5 M8X1.25 bolts. The 2.4L is an actual balancer and presses on the crank with a large center bolt, probably a key to align it.

Should have been 2.2L, 2.5L Turbo and 2.4L. 2.5L turbo is for reference as it is what goes over the 2.5L crank snout. It is also referred to as a common block as 1989 up the 2.2 and 2.5L shared a block, prior to that they were different, 2.2L from 1981-1984/5 used 10mm head bolts 1985-88 11mm and all had a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. 1986-88 2.5L are called "tall block" as they are like the RB V8s, taller deck height. 1989-end of production there is one block design, just machined for different applications.

Ok, I will get you pictures and measurements, time isn't a huge issue as I will still have to (a) rebuild the head, (b) rebuild the short block and © make the block and head modifications for oil feed and return. The other option is modifying the 2.5L crank sprocket which appears to be powdered metal by extending the teeth all the way to the front side (or close) so that I can use my FWD Performance adjustable cam sprockets which are 40 tooth to match the 2.5L 20 tooth crank sprocket.

Keys do not need to be in the same place, the timing marks will not ever match unless they are made to. The only thing, the existing key way in the 2.4L sprocket is in-line with a "valley" between two teeth and is 5.26mm deep X 4.0mm wide. I can measure the existing key in the crank. Key is on the top of the crank in-line with the vertical center on the cylinder block at TDC #1 and 4. Timing marks are on the flywheel or torque converter depending on transaxle used so that doesn't need to be considered. I can send the 2.4L and 2.5L sprockets to you if that will help and I will see if I can measure the CL distance of the cam sprockets and idler from the block face as it is a machined surface and the face of the face of the front seal portion of the crank where the original sprocket bottoms.

Gary, in reply to your offer on 5 July, there is something if you have time or maybe McMaster-Carr or similar might have something. The 2.5L crank snout is a press fit in a 26mm hole and the bore in the 2.4L crank sprocket is 30mm or close thereto. I may also have to space it out just a bit as the 2.4L belt sits further out than the 2.5L. I do have some extra space as the 2.4L sprocket is only 32.69mm deep and the 2.5L original sprocket is 48.54mm deep. Crank snout is 25.18mm so it may be interesting. It obviously needs a key to keep it from slipping on the shaft. Sprockets appear to be powdered metal rather than machined, but are magnetic. There may also be a need for an adapter for the crank pulley as the 2.4L sprocket has 3 bolts for a damper and the 2.5L uses 5 for the pulley. That will have to wait on fitting up of accessories (PS, WP, Alt and AC). The 2.4L engines use a serpentine belt with the timing belt running the water pump so I may see if something like that will work.

Basically splits the grille into three sections, left is where the air cleaner inlet is, center is the radiator, AC condenser, auxiliary transmission cooler and engine oil cooler, right is nothing really, it is where the old air cleaner hose went and the 1990 radiator support still had it since it is the 1987 style. Between that and closing the bottom of the radiator support to the bumper it is a lot harder for the hot air from the radiator to come back around and up into it again.

These are taken through the grille as I didn't feel like taking it out today.

I do not have one of the side deflectors, but this is roughly where they go. I had to trim the width (front to back) so they fit behind the grille properly. Here is the bottom side, again some trimming was needed around the oil cooler lines. The part inside of the bumper has a flange (all molded rubber) that goes up against the back side of the bumper.

Gary, there were 3 pieces, a bottom rubber cover and two rubber deflectors for the sides of the radiator opening. Keep in mind Darth's front "doghouse" is a 1990 so some of it may not work. They came off an OBS truck, 1992 or 3 up and I think it was an F150. I can get you a picture of the bottom if I didn't already as my oil cooler lines run through it. The sides I had to cut to clear the grille, and they could be made from sheet metal and that might work better on the pre-1987 front.

Gary, if the wind was blowing from right to left it would push the heat across somewhat since the air inlet to the filter is left of the radiator.

Jim, you are exactly right. Darth came with 2 1/2" wide rear brakes, the 1993 rear axle I put in him to replace the one the inner bearing had spun on has 3 1/2" wide brakes. I have the later master cylinder and booster from the 1990 F250 (which had 3" rear brakes). I do still have the load compensating valve in the rear so haven't had issues with locking the rears under hard braking.

Ford's part numbering is quite good if you understand it. I found when working at a Dodge, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar and small imports dealership that the concept Ford used and M-B used are similar. Ford's middle section identifies the type of part, block, head, crank, manifold, gasket etc. First portion, the decade (C = 60s, D = 70s, E = 80s, F = 90s) then the actual year in the decade from 1 - 9, then the vehicle family it originated on The last part is revisions, and can get long, initial is A and it goes up from there, sometimes with numbers. MB, PNs are xxx xxx xxx xx First group is chassis or engine 110 can be an M110 engine part or a body/chassis part for an old 4 cyl car Second group is a class identifier, transmissions are 260 Third is specific part, like a countershaft Last is updates 01-99 Again, once you have the code, you can look at a part number and know what it is.

I have loads of salvaged fasteners and also use Clips and Fasteners.

Just about anything that you can find that will mount where you want and not look too awkward will work. Neat though for small mirrors! I did the same on my convertible, I adapted LeBaron sedan mirrors as the convertibles had slightly smaller manual cable remotes (on the respective door panels) I now have power remote mirrors with a power switch for L, R or Off.

Here on Virginia's appendix and the cities around the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, the temperature and humidity have a contest to see which gets higher (temperature ends up winning). Right now at 10:09 AM it is: Temp 90° F, Rh 68% Heat index 103° F