85lebaront2

I spoke with the tech today (he still has hair so it hasn't gotten to him too badly yet) The issue is the downloaded update or data is corrupt and it is giving him a server error. The engineer feels it is an issue on their end and right now we are in a holding pattern on the solution.

I'm not sure whether it was what they wrote into mine or their software was corrupt. Service manager called me this afternoon just after I returned from Salisbury MD. The engineer at Ford was tied up most of the day in meetings, and their one tech who does these also had other work so she wanted to know if I needed the Flex back or was ok keeping the Escape. I told it it was fine as I understood the desire to have my vehicle there in case the Ford Engineer wants to try linking to it. I'm just glad I decided to use mine as the Guinea Pig in case there was an issue. BTW, it is basically a satellite dealership for them, the larger ones are up in Maryland on their part of the Eastern Shore. On a side note, while I was getting my stuff out of the Flex, There was a Godzilla 7.3L on a stand, probably warranty as it had obviously been in use. I told her she could have one of the kits dropped in my garage (Engine, 10R100 transmission, computer and wiring harness) for Darth.

Reno, booster bolt pattern is the same, I converted Darth to a 1990 Booster and 1993-97 MC, but went with the Aeronose dash. I have some pretty good pictures of the changes needed, I also wanted to update the wiring which was part of the reason for the Aeronose dash. I upgraded my rear brakes from the original 12 X 2.5 to 12 X 3.5 and did away with the old proportioning valve/failure warning switch. I do not have the RWAL system so just spliced the lines together.

Looks great sir! I didn't do anything to Darth, but I drove the white Flex up to the local Ford dealer to have the Sync system updated. After about 2 hours (supposed to be about 1 to 1 1/2) the service manager came and got me and said the data was corrupted (don't know if it was mine or theirs) and the engineer at Ford was working on a solution and they were giving me a loaner So basically I drove up there in a 2009 Flex and came home in a loaded 2022 Escape SEL.

One item peculiar to the 1985 and 1986 EFI trucks, the reservoir, switching valve (canister on the frame behind the pump) has a filter in it that should be now have been replaced. The actual switching valve system can fail also.

My LKQ taillights on Darth:

Gary, the spring is the "check" and was replaced on later models with a different style hinge altogether. The usual reason these fail, other than fatigue, is the little "star" rollers freeze from lack of lubrication, and instead of rolling over the end of the spring, they end up sliding over it and wearing through the spring.

LKQ did have them, Matt bought a pair of later ones for his 86 F150, liked the light output but not the appearance. When I put the 96 Bed on Darth, he gave them the me after ordering a pair of earlier ones for his.

The other issue with an AOD on a 300 is the same as the C4 on a 300, neither transmission is really good in that application due to the 300s torque at low rpm. There is a reason Ford moved up to C6s and E4ODs behind the 300. If you can find an AOD from a 351W (1980 or around there cars) these have beefier internals and will hold up better. If you stay with the C4, try to find the 300 specific parts (front band, input and direct clutch drums) these are the choice when building a performance C4. I had one I built in my 1964 Falcon (with a slight case of snakebite), it would chirp the tires on a WOT 1-2 shift and 2-3 was BAM, right now!

That is amazing! I will definitely want to see the finished project.

Just here for repairs. I have trolled one friend over here. I sent him the last picture from my phone and he swallowed it, he thought I had bought a wrecker.

That is how I differentiate the two, I may not be totally correct. It is more a way of understanding what I am working on than a "politically correct" name. I currently have a 1993 GMC 3500 HD 6.5L turbodiesel sitting here I need to figure out what it needs and get the needed parts ordered for it. It belongs to a wrecker company in Hampton, he brought it over on his low deck roll back. It has the Roosamaster injection pump and it is leaking probably from the input shaft seals. Since it has been sitting for 10 years (basically since I moved from Newport News) I haven't gotten it started yet and Being nearly 30 years old, I suspect the turbo may need replacing also.

Gary, quit overthinking and look at the rotation directions, On the Taurus, V8 & V10 mod motors other than the Lincoln Continental, the water pump rotates backwards from the crank. This involves using the back (flat) side of the belt to achieve it. On the Continental and the 7.5L (460) all drive/driven pulleys turn the same direction, clockwise and are driven by the ribbed side of the belt. I have always referred to a single drive belt running multiple accessories as a serpentine and flat ribbed belt as a polygroove especially if it is only running one or two accessories. Arrows note direction of belt travel.

Let me try to explain what the difference is (a) polygroove is a description of the belt design, they are better suited for tight turns than a V belt (b) serpentine is a description of the belt routing, ie, like a serpent's path. Most true serpentine belts systems use flat polygroove belts for there flexibility, greater grip and ability to drive from either side. I will give some examples: 1994 Taurus 3.8L V6. Crank turns clockwise along with everything except the water pump. 1995 Lincoln Continental 4.6L DOHC V8 sideways as it is a Taurus based chassis. Everything turns clockwise. 2003 E series with V8 or V10 everything except the water pump turns clockwise. Hope these help in understanding. FWIW, I have two 48" mower decks, one a 1991 Ford (deck is actually a 1989) and a 2001 New Holland where the deck V belt follows a serpentine path. Note that the tensioner is normally the last item before the drive pulley.

Ok, let's try this then. In the bottom picture, the crank pulley (no harmonic balancer) bolts to the right side of that gear with 5 M8X1.25 bolts, the small protrusion barely visible where the cut away section is on the right is what the pulley centers on. It's position in relation to the block (in or out distance) is what lines up with the accessory drives AC, PS, ALT and WP, the last two are driven by a polygroove belt, the other two by V belts. On the 2.4L engines the alternator has a polygroove belt, the water pump is driven by the timing belt. AC and PS by a serpentine belt. Chrysler did have a 4 cyl engine that used a single serpentine belt, it was the Turbo III a DOHC 2.2L. I have contemplated a similar setup but I believe it used a Tecumseh HR980 like some of the Ford 4 cyl engines did.

I finally decided to rough cut the 2.5L crank gear down to see what diameter I could get down to and still keep the strength at the keyway. I did this with an abrasive cutoff disc on my pneumatic angle grinder. I just cut the solid areas between the oval openings on the back side and then doing the same at the ovals. I cut in on the OD at the outer end of the teeth for the belt. I ended up with a 36.25 mm "snout" I will have to (a) cut the snout so I have the proper distance to the end of the hole on the old gear and (b) open up the bore in the 2.4L gear so the 36.25 mm snout can be pressed into it. The other issue is the outer face of the old gear is where the crank pulley attaches and has to remain out from the block face in order to line up with the accessories, in particular the water pump and alternator. On this, I may end up cutting the flange off of the 2.4L gear and using the back side of the adapter (made from the 2.5L gear) as the flange for the belt. The final piece of this puzzle will be the intermediate shaft gear, the original 2.5L gear is wide enough for the 28 mm belt width, but the position it needs to be in places the hub so far out it doesn't engage the key. I think I have an extra one of these, but if not I do have two extra older square tooth gears I can use. Plan is to face the short side of the hub off to the disc portion of the gear, then take another gear and cut the hub out leaving enough of the disc so that with it's short side removed it, with a portion of it's disc, can be turned into a hub putting the gear in alignment with the cam and crank gears by attaching it with short screws and nuts. I will most likely remove the protruding hub inside the front of the gear so I have enough length on the securing bolt. The actual belt, careful measuring using the NAPA belt that came with the original head, gave me the following tooth counts: Tensioner all the way extended, 150 teeth, tensioner all the way retracted, 155 teeth. In perusing my comprehensive list of Dayco timing belts by length, I found a 152 tooth belt, 28 mm wide, T number T270. This fits a 1995-1997 Volvo V6 so is not difficult to find and one is on it's way.

4 mpg? What gear is in yours? Darth always got a solid 10 mpg empty or loaded, 7 - 8 towing a 30 ft 5th wheel. This was still running the carbureted 460 and C6 and at the time still had all of the original factory exhaust system. I agree with Jim, extending the pump mount down so the pickup is in the low point of the tank and hopefully a gauge sender that reflects the actual fuel level. I think I still have the original rear 19 gal pump and sender from Darth, but don't know if the pump is any good. FWIW, after converting to EFI and E4OD, even with quite low compression (early large dish pistons and early EFI large chamber heads) Darth delivered 12.5 mpg on a long high speed (70 mph) run after the updates.

I had seen it before, like most Ford engines in stock form durable as all getout, and can make serious power with some work.

I'm still in the process, I have thought about pins. Right now I am working on cutting down the 2.5L crank gear. That powdered metal tears up the cutting tools. What I am trying to get is an extended hub where the teeth are now, the idea being an interference fit between the hub and gear. so once the correct timing location for the crank gear is determined, they outer one can be heated to hopefully allow the center to be quickly inserted and clamped while it cools. Then possibly one or more roll pins coated with red Loctite so they can't come out at high rpm.

Very impressive! The wing vents (triangular windows) pivot on the lower axis and an upper pivot that is hidden. They do tilt slightly when opened due to the inward slant of the door top. I would get you some pictures, but I updated my interior to a 1996 interior and had to go to the squared off front on the wing vents to clear the driver's end of the dash where the instruments are. The translation you were trying to find for the piece behind the transmission, is probably "transfer case" where the drive for the front axle and the 4WD shift and Hi-Lo range shift takes place.

Welcome to the forum! I have never spent any time overseas (glad in a way as it would most likely have been SE Asia). I worked at a Mercedes-Benz dealership and have worked on many German autos from low to high end (Opel through M-B and BMW). For many years as a teenager I built model cars in 1:25th and 1:24th scale mostly AMT and Revell.

Thanks! I still have to figure two things out, how to get a key that will positively locate it and how to get the 5 bolt crank pulley attached. I am going to see how hard it will be to enlarge the hole in the 2.4L gear, then if I can arrive at a decent size hole and have enough space in front of that gear, cut down the OD of the 2.5L gear so it's key way can be used. Then figure out how to fit 3 M6X1.0 bolts in between the 5 M8X1.25 holes for the crank pulley. That may have to wait until I can do a good fit up of the head onto the block and sacrificing the Stratus head gasket I can't use anyway to get a final length on the timing belt. Once I have that I can secure the crank at TDC, line up the cam gears and clamp them so they can't move and get the crank gear so the belt is tight. The 5 pulley bolts are fairly short, maybe 10mm thread length and pretty strong as per the markings so at worst case, I may end up using cut off M6 bolts as pins and making the gear to pulley hub a mild interference fit and use red Loctite on assembly of gear to adapter and rear hub to gear bolts so it becomes essentially a single piece.

Gary, it looks like you may be off the hook. Here is what I did the last two days. I took a leftover piece of a cast iron wheel hub I modified so I could use bolt on wheels on my 1991 Ford YT16H tractor. It was just a tiny bit larger OD than the 2.4L crank gear and the hole was a snug fit on the 2.5L crank snout. I started by chucking it in the lathe by the inboard end so I could true up the hacksaw cut face. Once that was square, I turned it around, took a quick depth measurement and cut it there using the lathe and hacksaw to get a nice square cut (I learned that trick at the NNS lab). Once cut I proceeded to face that side off until it was smooth all the way across but still thick enough to put the crank gear far enough out. I than cut the gear facing portion down and chamfered it to fit in the back side of the 2.4L crank gear. The 2.4L crank gear has three holes tapped M6X1.0 part way so a special puller can remove it. I lined up the key ways and center punched the piece I had made. Drilled holes for 3 M6X1.0 bolts to check position and tapped the through holes in the gear all the way. Stuck some bolts in it to do a position check for depth, permanent bolts will be socket head and countersunk for clearance on the seal housing. It appears to be near perfect as far as alignment with the tensioner. I will see what I need for the front of it to attach the 2.5L crank pulley on to. I bought an extra crank gear in case I mess this one up.

Welcome, I am the 76 year old on the forum. If you need some help with the EEC-IV feedback carburetor system feel free to ask. It was not the best system, but as many vehicles in that era, the system was a step towards the complete control systems we have on newer vehicles. Most parts store "code readers" are for the OBD-II systems, but the EEC-IV can be read with a test light and jumper, or if you have a "check engine" light or possibly "emission" light it can give you the codes.

Well, when it comes to the 302, I don't know if anything is ever 100% verified, but an '83 built in '83 should have a 1pc rear main seal. I'd hate to be the guy to steer you wrong, but that's what it should have if the engine is original. I've done several transmission swaps in my little home garage with no lift, and is usually not fun lol. Maybe I worded that wrong, but I don't have as much enthusiasm as I used to, and I'm definitely not as strong as I used to be lol. I have one of these transmission jacks: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/transmission-jacks/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html It works great...except once the transmission is on it, it's then too tall to roll in or out from under the truck while on stands (mine was a 2wd, so with a 4x4 you may have enough room). The bellhousing you can roll under the body through a wheel opening if it happens to not be removeable like with an automatic. If you don't need to take the trans out from under the truck, you can just leave it on the jack and roll it backwards out of the way. You can use a regular trolley jack in place of a transmission jack, but it's hard to balance the transmission on there. If money is tight, buy the transmission jack, and then sell it on Craigslist when you're done and you'll get at least 50% of your money back. One time I built a little wood frame inside the cab of the truck and then lifted the transmission with a pair of ratchet straps through the opening in the floor. I then used the jack to roll it forward and attach it to the engine. I don't know if that's any help or not, but that's what I've done. I guess you could always pull the engine...sometimes that's the lesser of the two evils. That jack looks like a fair (for Chinese) copy of my Walker one.