85lebaront2

Ok, first item, the injectors on the bank fired trucks are grouped 1 - end 4 (1458) 2 - center 4 (2367). Second item, if there is a dead short on either of the injector control circuits, then the injectors on that bank (1 or 2) will open immediately when the key is turned on flooding those 4 cylinders. If you pull some plugs and see either the end or center ones are extremely rich, I would suspect an ECM issue.

One of my fellow "lab rats" (what we called ourselves in the NNS laboratory) had two Ford pickups, both of which he pretty well inherited. One was a 1986 F150, 300 six and 4 speed, the other a 1994 F150, 302 and 4R70. He asked me which I thought would be better to use running from Newport News VA to his retirement home he was building in Charlotte County West of Richmond. I said the 1994 as it had an OD trans and the 1986, even running perfectly still was a feedback carb system. First couple trips he wasn't real happy, 10 mpg o the 1994. I suggested he pull a couple of plugs and see what they looked like, to his surprise they were AC platinum plugs. Having gone through platinum plugs on older Fords, I suggested he get a set of Motorcraft plugs. He wasn't sure but agreed to use them. He called me somewhere beyond Richmond and started singing "I'm a believer". Truck hadn't even burned 1/2 tank running loaded on the interstate. Point is, 300 is an workhorse, like a Clydesdale, 302 is more of a race horse and is happy cruising. Now if both had been 1994 or 1986, the difference would not have been as great.

Welcome to our family!

Mat, my point exactly! "close enough" will work sometimes, but not always. 1987 up systems are not as sensitive as they take the voltage at startup and use that for closed throttle, the EGR controls also changed from two solenoid valves to a single pulse width valve. The other item I have found is the EVP sensor (EGR Valve Position), I have had a number of them where the plunger was too long, not by much, maybe 1/16-3/32" too long so the computer thought it was open when it wasn't. A little work with a grinder and problem solved.

The erratic idle may be the same thing my son had on his 1986 F150. His problem was an aftermarket TPS. The idle stop screw on these trucks is adjusted based on a voltage reading. If the voltage is a little high the EGR vacuum and vent solenoids will chatter as the system tries to adjust things.

I had a similar problem on Darth, water would show up on the right side under the carpet. I finally gutted the interior as far as the carpet went and waited for our next deluge. When I saw a fellow with a long white beard loading animals on a big boat, I felt it was good enough for a test. When I opened the driver's door and got in, I could see a trail of water running from the corner where the inside of the cowl, back of the firewall and floor pan front kickup all join. After the rain stopped, I removed the inlet duct from the HVAC system and looking inside the cavity, found that there was no sealant of any kind inside the air duct and cowl drain area. Cleaned it, dried the area and spray undercoated the whole thing inside. After it dried, it was garden hose time and no more leak!

Unfortunately, I think Ford's numbers were on plastic tape wrapped around the spring coil. On the door tag (certification label), bottom right will be springs, from there, you can go to "Documentation" and drill down to "suspension" and finally "springs". Year and model then the code letter. For Darth front is J, rear is K. 1986 F150-350, J is E3TZ-5310-T. A spring shop may be able to give you the specs in lbs/inch deflection If you have any race car shops, they can probably test springs for you.

Actually there is an EEC-IV analyzer and a tester out there that I sent one and had the second one shipped directly to Gary.

Sorry, He sent that to me on FB, he had a 15-16 Hz frequency at idle which extrapolates to well over 30 in of vacuum. Even in space I don't think that is even possible. On most of the EFI Fords I have worked on, 10° BTDC is static setting with the SPOUT disconnected. 9-10° is close enough to run reasonably.

mat, go back and look at his frequency on the MAP sensor and see what that tells you against the table I posted.

Jim, 1990 and up, a high pressure pump unit (called a Fuel Delivery Module) is installed in each tank. Each has two valves, one closes the high pressure line until the pump is running, the other does the same for the return line.

To add to that, I made a piston stop from an old spark plug. (1) knock the porcelain out of the shell and break off the side terminal (2) find a suitable size bolt or screw (3/8-16 works well in 14mm plugs) and tap the plug shell (3) install a nut on the bolt or screw and then screw it into the plug shell and snug the nut (4) use a grinder to round off the end of the bolt or screw (5) with the piston down a bit, insert and tighten the tool in #1 or #6 plug hole unless you are on an in-line 4 or V6 (6) carefully rotate the crank until the piston stops against the bolt or screw and mark the balancer, reverse the crank until it stops again and mark the balancer. 1/2 way between the marks is actual TDC, if it matches your 0 TDC mark then you have verified that the balancer hasn't slipped and can now be certain of your timing.

I am going to go back to my son Matt's experience when he was at LKQ. He ordered in a set of their top line taillights for 1987-96 and installed them on his 1986, they do not fit exactly right, from a distance they are ok, but up close the lines of the bed sides to taillights aren't correct. He ordered a correct 1986 set for his truck, and since I already had a later bed on Darth, sent the others to me. BTW, try to find a good 1985-86 Dually bed, they are a two year only item.

tc, mine is the later F-series PDC and fit nicely on the inner fender. Biggest issue, to get the full benefit, the inside harness and ignition switch need changing also.

I will hit on the PDC issue, I went and got a later model PDC and mounted it where it sits on the later (1993-97) trucks. I also rewired the entire truck to the later system including the trailer tow wiring, which I made one change on to match what I had done on my 1977 F150. The PDC contains maxi fuses for all the power circuits, I still have the dual fusible links on the main power wire from the starter relay to the PDC as the wire passes in front of the radiator and can be cut and shorted in a collision. The PDC also contains most of the power relays (EEC power, fuel pump, horn, trailer running lamps) along with several smaller fuses, including one for each side trailer stop and turn. Here are three with the various items called out, the green maxi fuse goes in the empty spot in the upper left area.

I only found one place that could/would do the alignment on my 1977 F150 and Darth. It was an older shop in the man's back yard, came recommended by two other Ford truck owners, both of whom were very particular as to who worked on their vehicles. He did my 1977 and when my son had it, he finally needed front tires, shop started with the "we will need to do and alignment in order to warranty the tires", then backpedaled when they realized it was a Twin-I-beam truck. Once they looked at the virtually dead even wear on the old tires they asked who had aligned it (truck was in San Antonio by then) son told them it was some shop in Ark Virginia. After I bought Darth, same issues with needing a proper alignment, same shop, but he had a young apprentice he was training and asked if I had a problem with the apprentice doing the work under his supervision. My reply was that if he felt he was good enough to train, then let him do it. That was in 1994, no other full alignment has been done since, just tie rods and toe-in. Tires wear dead even, local tire place insisted on checking it, and were amazed that the front was dead center of the ranges.

I agree with you Gary, definitely sounds like it is quite a bit retarded. Have you tried a vacuum gauge to see what you have for manifold vacuum with it running?

I believe I used something like the first set on my friend's rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350. Let me look at my notes, pictures etc. Here is where I used them, to pull the parking brake lever on the GM calipers. This was done to use the original Ford drum brake cables to operate the parking brake system on the GM rear calipers.

Right, I now notice it! I use to see things much more "evidently" under Big Brother's hood. I was mystified by this flex hose, which I identified as an "air" one, was completely lost because of it! Thanks Bill! I never realized that in line 6 took so much front-back space and comes so close from the radiator. You think that's tight, how about this? There is about 3" from the fan to the radiator, and yes that is a Bullnose engine compartment, 1986 F350.

I see a distributor, middle of the driver's side of the engine. Flex covering is over the upper radiator hose to protect it. Coil could be in the cap if he has an HEI, if not the E-core coil is fairly compact. Engine is a 300 (4.9L) in-line 6.

Gary, that I can't help you with too much, I can do measurements on Darth's back seat as the position with respect to the back of the cab is the same as a standard cab. As far as angle, my seats are 10 way power with lumbar support and the current center is a folding one with a drink holder on the seat back top when folded. What will be going in place of it will be the Flex mid row center console with refrigerator/freezer.

I will be following this one, my 2000 Lincoln Continental seats are on the base the set I pulled out at Pete's were on and since they were floor mounted in the Lincoln, they sit a bit high. I need to drop them down and fit the extra Flex console in between them (the one with the refrigerator).

Here is the internal torsion spring in the AOD, it moves the TV shaft in the counterclockwise direction. In order to get a positive complete return to the minimum pressure, the rod needs to be pulled up and forward or the cable needs to have the lower end pulled out to find the internal stop for the TV lever.

Is the outer TV lever going all the way to the closed throttle position? The AOD has an internal "fail safe" spring in case the rod or cable come off. I assume the Lokar cable pulls on the TV lever as it usually hooks on the tail of the carburetor throttle lever. The EFI cable would have been the same way, pulling the TV lever as the throttle was opened.

My stash is from years of saving every decent fastener from anything I take apart, then sorting, cleaning and putting them in containers with labels. the bulk of my smaller ones are in salsa jars. Many are sorted by size (5/16-18 or maybe M8X1.5 and then length in inches or mm as appropriate.