85lebaront2

I assume you have the stamped axles as they are the ones that take ball joints. If the ball joints themselves are not damaged, I would highly suspect he bent the axles. First check the ride height as the caster and camber on these trucks varies with height. I would first find a shop that is very familiar with the Twin I-beam suspension. Due to the close proximity of the ball joints, it does not take much of a buckle in the top of the I-beam to make a big difference in the camber. Look for cracked paint between the upper ball joint and the main portion of each I-beam. If your truck is a 4WD, then the bearing tube for the hubs could be bent, if so replace them.

Jim, I had a few people tell me that (a) it won't be driveable (b) they will never open all the way and © it will drink gas. (a) very driveable, nice throttle modulation (b) 3500 rpm, you could hear and feel the secondaries come in © 22 mpg at 70 mph, only 18 at the national 55 mph speed limit Those are two 465 cfm Holley 4160 carbs turned with the primary barrels to the rear. Front carb is primary and has the choke.

Pin 12 is a digital speedometer output though, not input. It's for connecting to a speedometer with a digital/VSS input. I plan on using this myself. You can input a tach signal though...it is not required, but it is optional. I'm not sure if it's beneficial or not. I don' t think there's any speed signal inputs required for the controller...not that I'm aware of at least. I don't know anything about the E4OD, so all I have been reading about is the 4R70W that I have. E4OD does use a speed signal in addition to RPM and TPS to decide when to shift up or down and whether to apply or release the converter clutch. Here is the transmission speed sensor (now removed) on Darth. Speed sense is now from the rear axle 120 tooth tone ring.

Ether egg is what we called the ones we used on the USMC stuff.

1977 on DS-II, that was what my 1977 F150 had with the 300 six, I converted a 1976 390 camper special distributor to DS-II by adding the cap, rotor and cap adapter. I believe I have seen a similar boot used on trucks and cars where water splashing was an issue.

Looking at the picture, I see the rpm sensor wiring is tapped and I see a TPS sitting on the side of the injection pump. On 1987-1991 trucks, if there was an EEC it would have been located at the left kick panel area. 1985-86 EFI trucks had it located to the right of the steering column inside the cab. See if you have a bunch of wiring going through an oval rubber plug near the left valve cover, if so, the TCM is probably where the EEC would go (same size and shape). I have a friend in Dover DE who is running an E4od on a carbureted 302.

Here is an E4OD left side in a 1986 F350 crew cab. On the right side, top of the lower portion pf the case, there will be a large plug. If it is a C6, there will be a vacuum modulator out the back of the case. The cross member will be moved back roughly 6" from where it would be for a C6 and the holes would have to have been drilled as there were no E4ODs prior to 1989.

The distributor issue is not about sealing the wires, it is about keeping water out of the internals. A couple of thoughts, GM on the new LT1 engines, moved the distributor to a location between the water pump and block. These have a pretty well sealed inside area (until the water pump seal goes) and are connected with one or two hoses to the air inlet area. These are to purge anything that leaks into the distributor. If you take a 460 distributor (I will look at one of my spares later) and put a small hole with a nipple on the low side (should be the side near the water neck) and have that go through a small line to the area behind the throttle body and a second one on the distributor to the intake ahead of the throttle body, then seal cap to adapter to distributor, any leakage into the distributor would be promptly scavenged by manifold vacuum, even at a good throttle opening. Fan, 1996 T-Bird has one that will cover 3/4 of the truck radiator and is a two speed unit.

I am going to toss another monkey wrench or two in the box (along with the snakes, worms etc.), First, fan, once it starts thrashing water, it drags horribly and throws it everywhere. This includes the distributor. Water, especially dirty water, conducts electricity, DS-II and TFI systems are, like a GM HEI very high voltage, so crossfire becomes an issue. After leaving your deep water crossing, as everything warms back up. this "pool" in the distributor bowl will evaporate and re-condense in the cooler cap making things quite exciting. Military tactical vehicles have sealed ignition systems, even the plug cables are sealed, like airplanes. Both are designed to remain functioning in either driving rain or actually under water. COP or Coil near plug systems could probably do well as the bulk of the wiring is 12V rather than 25-50KV.

I will have to look later, i have the 1995 manual set in PDF format.

The Powerstrokes in 1994.5-1997 get their air from a duct over top of the left battery.

Rene, enjoy your Christmas! The truck can wait. The Hall Effect Pickup (commonly called an HEP) is a pretty common item, the issue is the replacement, it requires the distributor be disassembled to get it out. I would do more diagnostic testing first as I suspect a wiring issue as that was very common on these.

1971 429 2V, 1.33 venturii. I had one on my 1971 Colony Park. Once I found that the only difference in the engine from the 4V was the intake and carb, I went to my local junkyard and got a 4V intake for a 429/460.

When I still had a carburetor on Darth, I had him in water up to the headlights after Floyd came through.

This is the diagram from the diagnostic manual for the 1986 trucks, main difference is the color markings, 1985 used dots or hash marks, 1986 went to stripes. No colors are on it though. One problem area I have run into on these is the ground for the entire system is a 1/4" wide male/female pair attached to the battery negative cable clamp bolt. It is a chronic bad connection or is one waiting to happen. The diagram shows a heated O2 sensor, I have never seen one pre-1987 on a truck, they have always been one wire O2 sensors in the rear of the right exhaust manifold. Try what I suggested by adding an LED to monitor the coil trigger (it will be on when the module opens the circuit to fire the coil). Coil and injectors should be close to the same time, but injector banks have to alternate.

Good point Gary. Rene, the firewall penetration is a large rubber oval that, with the two underhood harnesses unplugged, should be able to be removed for inspection. I was trying to find the pictures I had of a harness set I sold that was from a 1986, still the same setup, just different markings.

If the flashes are the same then the wiring is ok. But if the flashes are different then you have a wiring problem. Then we can move on to the next step. Gary, other than disconnecting the injector harness, that was my last suggestion except I was adding in the coil pulse to see if he is getting a double injector pulse. I believe (can't find all my old documentation) that is the way the bank fired systems work, maybe mat can confirm as I haven't had a bank fired Ford system since 2012.

Question still comes on the TFI module, is it the correct one? Pictures of the 4 different styles and which pin is which: TFI_5.bmp

Rene, the V8 shutters are all the same as far as I know. Here is one from a late 460: The reason I was asking, there is a system a lot of people like (I do not) called MSD, for Multiple Spark Discharge. These fire the coil multiple times which could cause multiple pulses to the computer. Try this as a test: Remove the distributor cap, leave the rotor on and mark where #1 is on the distributor cap adapter Take the coil high tension wire off it and place it near a good ground Connect an LED from the coil - to ground with the positive side to the coil Use two other LEDs on the injector harness plug (injectors disconnected so as not to flood things) Crank the engine with the plugs installed so it doesn't spin too fast Watch the LEDS for flashes. When rotor passes #1 location, coil and injector bank #1 should flash When rotor passes #6 location, coil and injector bank #2 should flash This is an assumption, I do not have a bank fired system to try this on so it may not be correct, it may go coil + bank #1, coil + bank #2, then repeat, but the injector banks should alternate.

From my experience with the 1985/86 EFI systems, the engine harness is a common problem. I have no idea what Ford used for insulation on these, but it is frequently crumbling and will short across and to ground. Unfortunately, in order to really inspect the injector harness it needs to be completely accessible, meaning the plenum (upper manifold) needs to be removed. Once that is done, disconnect the injectors and using a meter, check that the red, tan/orange and tan/red are all showing open circuit between them. While the meter is connected, try flexing the plug end (C160 on the diagram) of the harness to see if the readings change. Hopefully this will find your problem. My other questions, (a) are you still using the original distributor and it's ignition module? (b) if original, is it a Motorcraft or aftermarket unit. © have you verified the wiring from the distributor. The reasons for these, the distributor has a shutter and a Hall effect pickup, one of the shutter vanes is narrower than the other 7 and this is what tells the computer where #1 cylinder is triggering the bank 1 injector pulse, bank 2 should trigger on the third wide vane following the narrow one. This gives two separate injector pulses per distributor revolution or, one per crank revolution. If the ignition system is giving improper signals to the computer, it will not work correctly (old computer term - GIGO Garbage in = Garbage Out).

From my point of view, I would not trust a welded case to be 100% true as far as alignment of the centerline of the shafts to the crank. It would need to be stripped and runout measured along with actual alignment to the extended centerline of the crank.

I can vouch for what a bit of tuning and a bigger turbo can do. 1985 Chrysler Lebaron convertible, 2.2L turbo II engine with boost level raised to 14 psi, car would just drive away from an 80s/90s Mustang GT. Son found that the Tokyo by night dash didn't blank at 85 mph (switch set to "export"), but lacked a 100s digit in mph. He had it to indicating 21 and still accelerating up near DC. As a result, T2K-CAR MkII has 3 wheel disc brakes, but will start at 15 psi, with a bigger exhaust system. Later plans are partially documented in my projects thread, a PT Cruiser turbo DOHC head on a 2.5L turbo short block. The existing 8 valve engine can tolerate 30 psi boost levels and the hybrid engine will also, crank will be it's weak spot as the current engine has a forged crank and the hybrid has a cast crank.

Replacing the tie rod ends is a bit interesting, the outers are pretty straight forward, inners are essentially the bulk of the tie rod. They are not impossible to do by yourself with a separation tool and if you carefully measure the length and count the number of turns to remove the ends it will be close. Alignment, if you have a ball joint front end there are offset bushings for setting caster and camber within a moderate range, if you have the kingpin front end as I do, the only way to set caster and camber is by bending the beams. Most shops will not touch these as a result, however, if you have a shop that will and they do it right, the alignment will hold up extremely well. Darth last had a full alignment in 1994, my front tires wear completely evenly across.

I generally corrected run out by having them turned and if too bad, then replaced.

That is exactly what I said, I even specified the cylinder numbers.