85lebaront2

Darth's EFI is a factory setup from a 1990 F250, but upgraded to MAF and sequential running a 1996 EEC-V computer. I would start by checking all the vacuum lines, particularly where they go over the exhaust crossover in the center of the right head side of the intake. Is your vacuum diagram on the radiator cover plate still legible? If not I can post my old diagram. There are two vacuum lines to each air control valve, a red and a black one. The red line should have vacuum whenever the engine is running, black I believe has vacuum with a warm engine, but it could be cold and no vacuum warm.

Backfire on deceleration can also be a bad or not connected correctly air bypass or diverter valve. Its function is to shut off the air into the exhaust to prevent backfires. Before I converted Darth to EFI, on a cold engine, pulling our 10K 5th wheel, going up onto the interstate near our house, when I topped the ramp and slight incline on the interstate and started down towards the Monitor-Merrimac memorial tunnel section, letting off the gas got a huge "boom" and my wife, following in the car said there was a large flame out of the tailpipe.

Good point Mat! That spring can be a pain to figure out if you didn't pay attention to it's location/orientation during disassembly.

Jim. I was able to order a replacement vacuum sticker for Darth from the dealer.

I've got more info on that now, too. The cluster/tach was likely associated with a 5.9 cummins. Unlike in a dodge, the F-trucks used a sensor to count teeth on the flywheel (180 teeth). Similar in concept to counting teeth on the IP gear. I would need to figure a way to turn 180 pulses into 106. Maybe that is what the dial-looking deal is on the back of the tach. Edit to add: One obscure post from another forum: "I set one up in my F700 using an F-series tachometer and the bell housing sending unit. 3 prongs on the tach, ground, signal, +. There was an adjustment on the back of the tach for the RPMs. The two wires off the bell housing are ground and signal I believe." So, perhaps, you can just hook it up to a signal and adjust. Two questions, how many teeth are on your flywheel or flex plate and could you mount a rear wheel anti-lock brake sensor where it would "count" teeth? If that would work the setup might be simple. One more item. the 105 tooth count or 106 is for cam and injection pump revolutions. To match the Cummins flywheel count, it will be either 210 or 212 pulses. Error would be .17 or .18 so your tach would read 85 to 86% of actual engine rpm and the adjustment might get you real close.

Current is limited by the diode capabilities, voltage output is controlled by the regulator. I do not know if the voltage regulator has any temperature compensation, it may though. Current regulation died with the dynamos. Ok, it may be a Chinese unit, the sticker is still on it and it says "World Power Systems"

The alternator I bought was from a member on FTE who had bought it from RJM to use. He ran into a situation of needing the money. I bought the alternator, a good sized chunk of wire and end lugs from him for what he paid for it plus shipping. It does not appear to be Chinese as the quality of everything is very good. I am pretty sure that RJM did exactly what Jim says, replaced the rectifier bridges with higher current ones. These appear to be a 3.8L Taurus/Sable/Mustang etc 130 amp unit right down to the M8X1.25 thread hole in the tensioning lug. The only issues I have had with it are: Belt slip on startup, one set of brushes/regulator and a front bearing failure. This has been on Darth since probably 2010 or earlier.

Well I guess I will do some measuring this weekend and see what I can get away with, because I know one thing for sure, I don't want to have to change this after the fact. I'm just not sure if I can move the engine over the full 2" or not. Still, if the trans output and rear diff input are offset, but still parallel, it should be fine? A couple of items (I finally got a chance to read through this). First, beautiful work on the whole project. I also know how these things take on a life of their own. Your steering solution is pretty neat. I had a 1958 F100 (my first truck) and I wanted to do some updates and had looked at the 1978 F250 4WD our BSA camp had. It had the steering box up front with the drag link going back to the left "spindle". These used a Saginaw (GM) steering box with the pitman shaft vertical and the arm extending under the frame to connect with the drag link. The steering shaft had a U-joint at the "turn" from horizontal to the steering column and I was playing with what I would need. My engine change was from a 223 six to a 1957 Thunderbird Special 312 with a Borg-Warner T85 and electric OD unit. Biggest difference from your truck to mine, front and rear axles changed design in 1957 to different king pins and a 9" Ford in the rear. On these, an E-series axle fits nicely. Power brakes were an option and it was a Kelsey-Hayes in-line unit underhood that was shared with among other vehicles with the early T-birds. Truck was 12 volt with the battery on the right side of the firewall (right in the way of the Y-block distributor). Only reason it went away, neighbor gave us a slide-in camper that needed an 8' bed, truck was a 6' bed. That was when I bought the 1977 F150. I will be eagerly awaiting the final results on yours.

My 160 amp on Darth has been there for around 10 years. Only issue was a set of brushes in the regulator. I did switch to a soft start regulator and a larger alternator pulley as the initial load was hard on the polygroove belt (black dust all over the alternator). If it does quit due to diode failure, I have an extra 130 amp 3G left over from my Taurus.

The idi Diesel tachometer used a pickup on the injection pump driven gear, which if I remember correctly is 105 teeth, it is driven by a mating 105 tooth gear on the camshaft. This means that 105 pulses = two crank revolutions. The only reason I know this, was helping a friend in Dover DE, set up a Diesel TCM to control an E4OD on a carbureted engine. He had to come up with something to make 8 pulses into 105 pulses.

Ok, since I was tagged on this one, and just pretty well read most of the 13 pages. Awesome amount of detail (still doesn't approach Gary's 76 page micro analysis). Are you still running the 1.08 venturii carb? if so that should be a good match as that was a pre-catalyst 302 size. Holley and Ford power valves are rated by manifold vacuum in inches of mercury, 10.5 is a fairly early tip in, 8.5 is the normal size, basically the lower the number, the later it opens. With an AFR meter and an accurate vacuum gauge you can decide if it needs to be changed. Float level, the 2150 carb is pretty forgiving on fuel level, but too low will cause a sudden opening stumble. 7/16" from the toe of the float to the bowl rim is a good setting if in doubt. One thing a lot of people don't understand is the relationship between fuel and spark, they both need to be optimized for best power and efficiency. On the electric choke, since you have a pull-off diaphragm, you can safely seal the inlet fitting, with the piston style break, it needs to have some flow to work.

On the frame, at the suspension crossmember are the engine mount perches that the mounts on the side of the engine go onto. They are engine family specific, but since the same basic configuration was used from the 60s through 1979, it becomes a case of (a) what engine did it have and (b) is it compatible with what you want to use. I took a 1977 F150 from a 300 six to a 390 camper special engine. Frame perches from a junkyard and a bigger radiator (the core support had a removable piece of panel for the larger radiator).

Welcome to the group, 65 is a bit early compared to our Bullnoses, basic chassis design was pretty similar up through 1979. You have the twin I-beams but the steering is behind the axles instead of in front. As far as engine swaps, a rear sump pan may be an issue as these trucks typically used a front sump configuration with the drain plug on the back side of the sump. Engines through 1979 ranged from a 240 six through the 460, but I don't recall any diesels. Truck doesn't look too bad for a nearly 60 year old vehicle.

Matt is my son, currently IT manager for Olympus Foreign Parts, a division of Guaranteed Parts Corporation. He lives in WV, not TN. I looked yesterday and no longer have any of the 1985/86 5.0L EFI computers. I do have a nice set of vacuum valves and a 1986 MAP sensor.

Fellow here on the Eastern Shore had a Subaru with the adaptive cruise control, (a) it wandered a bit and (b), if we were running along and someone switched lanes in front of us and was "too close" it would apply the brakes and I have no idea if it activated the brake lights. Kicking off the cruise and then if needed applying the brakes might be good. All this "nanny state" crap makes never want to buy a newer vehicle than what I currently own.

I guess I need to go up on my storage area in the garage and bring down the remaining spares I had for Matt's 1986 F150.

My name (the printable versions) William Alan, family calls me Alan, as dad was William Fowler and was called Bill, friends mostly know me as Bill. Screen name was arrived at when I needed one for eBay and was bidding on a Garret turbocharger for a 1989 2.2L Chrysler, it stands for the car 1985 LeBaron, and the turbo II engine. Avatar is the VA license plate for it, means Turbo 2 K Car as the 1982-86 LeBaron convertibles are K-cars. First two trucks I had weren't named, first was a 1958 F100, originally a 223 6cyl, but after my neighbor found that the 1957 Ranchero he had acquired had terminal frame rot, he offered me the 312 and 3 speed OD Borg-Warner transmission in return for getting his 1965 F100 straightened out. Second was a 1977 F150, originally a 300 6cyl and C4, I had a pickup camper I had been given that needed an 8' bed, 58 was a 6' styleside. I had looked into extending the frame and finding an 8' bed, but the 77 was reasonably priced. 300 hauled the camper, but wasn't happy and I didn't trust the C4. Fellow at work needed some work on his 1978 F100, a heater core replaced on an AC model and offered me some 390s in pieces, one of which was a Camper Special engine. That and a C6 went into the 77 along with an AC system. Third truck is the 1986 F350, named Darth Vader by my son and a group of his friends. As purchased, between the grille guard and Lund visor, he looks like Darth Vader.

EEC-V was introduced with the 1996 model year on all vehicles under 8500 GVWR, over 8500 it wasn't required (like air bags). E, F series and Broncos. I agree with Gary on using a manual trans EEC for a non-computer transmission like an AOD, the EEC-V can be adjusted to compensate for it. Once I am back to traveling more in Darth, I will carry a pre-flashed EEC-V box with the current tune and a spare TFI module, pretty well everything else can be had in a day or so, like a Fuel Delivery Module and normal tune up parts.

I will throw my $0.02 in on this. You have a good solid bottom end, the factory EFI intake is an excellent tuned runner design probably arrived at for peak torque, it just isn't very much of a show piece. First item, the original control system (MAP sensor) is called a speed density system and does not play well with too much cam duration, I seem to recall that anything over 110° lobe separation doesn't run well. The engine computers on these are not at all forgiving as far as non-stock engines. Ford made a number of improvements starting in 1987, with the 1994 up engines and controls being much more refined. 1994 up systems are mass airflow controlled and are not as sensitive to cam profile changes. Starting in 1996 (last year for the F series 5.0L) the system was changed to an EEC-V from the EEC-IV. From the standpoint of tuning, this was a big step, to conform to EPA requirements, the computer has to be capable of being updated via reflashing through the OBD-II port, this means that with the proper hardware and software the EEC can be "tuned" for changes (even the increased engine displacement is a factor). I would look for an EEC-V computer for an automatic transmission truck with a 5.0L engine, if you can find one for a C6 it would be very close to what you need since the AOD is a non-electronic transmission. A EEC-V computer is physically the same size as the existing EEC-IV one, it just has 104 pins rather than 60. I also highly recommend relocating the TFI module from the distributor to the left inner fender near the firewall as Ford did starting in 1990. If you decide to go aftermarket (Fi-tech, Holley) you need to keep in mind that the AOD uses a TV cable or rod depending on fuel system to control the shift points and internal pressure. This is a critical item, as wrong adjustments can burn up a transmission very quickly. Be sure that if you do use one of these, the TV cable provision is there. Both Gary Lewis and I have 460 EFI engines converted to the rare CA spec Mass Air systems, his engine is non-stock as will be my new one. Both of our trucks are non-catalyst from the factory and originally had 4 barrel Holley emission carburetors.

Sounds like you have a good project there. You have eliminated the worst part of the 1985/86 5.0L engines, the cylinder heads were the worst ones Ford ever used on the Windsor series engines.

Ok, on yours, the cable is up on top of the throttle body, originally under a plastic cover. A hard downshift, and probably a late, hard upshift is caused by the cable being too short. Since there is no cable adjustment, you have to move the cable casing. To effect the lengthening of the cable involves moving the outer casing toward the pin that the cable snaps on to. There is a large spring loaded section near where the TV cable attaches to the throttle body bracket. There is a large pressed in detent latch on the part that attaches the cable to the bracket. Holding the cable so it can't move back, release this latch by prying it up until you feel the cable casing want to push away from the bracket, push the casing in until you can re-latch it one notch in. This has now "lengthened" the cable one notch. Drive the truck and evaluate the shift feel, if it is good, reinstall the cover. Basically cable casing toward pin = earlier, softer shift, away from pin = later harder shift, just opposite of the carburated rod.

I have Monroe Gas Magnums on Darth, originally bought when Advance Auto ran a special on them, however they did not have the rears so I went to Sears and bought a set of their Loadhandler LTs that were made by Monroe. Fast forward probably 12 years, both ends were worn out, lifetime warranty so, to Advance for the fronts, but couldn't find the receipt. I contacted Monroe, and after some pictures and a an affidavit that I bought and installed them, they sent me two new ones and instructions on returning the old ones. Rear ones, I had the Sears warranty card, so should be no problem, right. Sears no longer has their own line, just sell Monroe now, nearly a week of back and forth between Sears and the Advance across the street and they were able to get me new ones, Dually now takes a different PN than a SRW model F350. Other reason for Monroe, part of my pension comes from Tenneco Automotive from when NNS was owned by them.

Not to mention he doesn't have a carburetor, so he has the wrong diagnostic chart.

Brush, blow or otherwise remove the crud so you can see the clips that hold the plug on.

If I remember correctly from Matt's F150, there was a retainer either as a clamping strap or a tab that attached to the bracket once the EEC was in place. The shiny square area bottom right in the picture may be the attachment. FWIW, I do not ever remember seeing any of the EEC-IV or EEC-V boxes that used any of the case screws to mount them. They have all been either slide in from the back or front side and held either with the weatherproof cover/seal on the engine side or a retainer on the back side, or are mounted inside the cab in a rack type mount with a strap or clamp so they can't move around. Maybe someone with a 1985/86 with any of the EEC systems can get a good picture of the installed ECU.