85lebaront2

Maybe. But that's a bridge I'll approach later. I'm not even sure the sway bars will help so I'm not sure I want to worry about a disconnect. Having said that, I was reading an article today where they were testing new full-sized trucks for overlanding and they said one of the trucks they tested badly needed the sway bar disconnect feature. I am not surprised the sway bar is not real great off road, you need all the unrestricted suspension motion possible.

Running obviously wasn't the problem, it was the starting priming circuit. If everything was working correctly, the way you had it wired, blue fusible link to battery, the pump would be running even with the key off. You were asking earlier about getting the wires out of the relay sockets, so here it is in pictures, I am using the brown socket which I believe would be your fuel pump cutoff relay (wire colors are wrong as this is from a 1990 F250, EFI 460) First, the relay socket top and bottom: Note the thin slot left side top, this is where I insert a metal nail file to push up on the retainer tabs: Once the retainer is lifted enough to put a small pick or screwdriver under it simple work it out. If you look carefully at the retainer, some of the tabs have small hooks, these are what keep it in the socket. With the retainer out, each terminal has a plastic latch that holds it in place, push the latch away from the metal terminal until the terminal can be moved away from the retainer area.

Yellow doesn't matter, it is not resistance. I wish I had known, I just disassembled a green and a brown Ford relay plug from an EFI truck, but they are the same. To remove the wires, first carefully remove the red locking cover, then at each wire, where the tabs on the cover inserted, there is a plastic latch, carefully push it away to the edge of the slot, the wire should pull out from the bottom. The Bosch relay is what is called a mini cube relay, they are used by just about everybody, they have 5 pins roughly 1/4" wide laid out with the two coil pins on the sides, the center contact on one end and the NC and NO contacts opposite. The Bosch numbers for the terminals are: 30 common; 85, 86 coil; 87 NO, 87a NC. Here is a not super picture, this is a Chrysler one with a skirt for underhood use and it takes a latching socket:

I wonder if the new Bronco sway bar disconnect could be adapted?

Not the ride, but the handling, front seems to stay planted better on corners, particularly sweeping curves. Fellow who inspects my vehicles is of the opinion they will outlast both of us (Kerry is probably in his 60s).

They ground off the bulk of the original stamping, it was probably a D2XX-X where the 9510 (carburetor group number) was understood. Accelerator pump, try it capped if it works that way leave it. I was trying to make sense of which way it worked, but not knowing the range of that vacuum control valve makes it hard. It appears that the vacuum will reduce the amount of gas the accelerator pump puts in. If you get a rich stumble, then try hooking it to vacuum. The way I determined that was the other pieces on that VCV, the intake heat control valve, it would be activated for warmup, then deactivated once the engine is warm.

Darth was sitting a little low in front, local shop wanted to put spacers in even though the camber was well within spec (FWIW, the alignment measuring procedure for these trucks is rather involved when done correctly). Caster was also good. I had a front and rear sway bar set from a 1990 HD F250 I wanted to install, but had not been able to get the brackets off before the truck was scrapped. I was able the get the correct brackets from Green Sales (NOS parts) and install them. I had some much better condition spring rubbers to put on also. After all that, I went back to the local shop and surprise, the camber and caster were dead in the middle on the tolerance, only thing needed was a toe in adjustment. Darth's last full alignment was not long after I bought him, probably summer of 1994. A shop in Gloucester County VA that actually has the equipment to bend the axle beams did the job, front tires still wear dead even. It helps that a 1986 F350 2WD has king pins rather than ball joints and they get greased regularly.

If you look at the driver's side fender wiring the needed plugs should already be there for the DS-II system.

From the picture that looks like the passenger's side as I see a vacuum tube. Where you need to look is the opposite side, the one where the throttle linkage is. It should be on the side of that "foot" in front of the return spring lug.

No adjustment is needed, where ever it reads on startup is set as closed throttle. This was a change on the trucks with the 1987 models I believe, cars were squirrely at least through the end of the 5.0L SD/SEFI systems. I had a bypass kit installed on our 1990 Town Car in order to get the idle speed and TPS in tolerance.

Junkyard.

Gary, the XL3F-BA I have does not have the IAT built in, the YC2F-BA from the 2003 E250 5.4L does.

Gary, you are close, here is Darth's before I got the proper cable:

Yes sir, that is correct. Are you comfortable following a wiring diagram? I posted them earlier, it is in two parts, one follows the gauge system wiring, the other the fuel pump power. If you unplug the yellow wires at C144 with the blue fusible link still on the hot side of the starter relay, there should be battery voltage there. If not then there is a problem with the fusible link. Look for a melted area and gently tug on the ends. If there is a melted area, that's the problem. If you have battery voltage there, try jumping the pins in the male side of C144 and see if you hear a pump run and a hiss from the vapor separator. If that works, then go under the passenger side of the dash, on the heater duct, you should see two yellow wires plugged into a switch with a push button on top, push down on the button and see if it clicks and stays down. If jumping the pins in C144 doesn't work, then move over to the relay under the shield on the driver's side firewall. Check first for battery voltage at the pink with black hash wire, this is the feed from the blue fusible link. If you have battery voltage there with the relay plugged in, then you will need to check for battery voltage at the yellow wire first, then the red and the brown with white wires, one should have power, if not the relay is bad. If you do not have power at the pink with black hash wire, then the diode may be open or the wire may be broken. If you find the tank selector relay is bad, a standard Bosch cube relay will functionally replace it with a socket. If it is exposed under hood, seal the back side of the socket with RTV.

Pumps are, but the carburetor may not be, fuel evaporates from heat when sitting, and Holley carbs were known to leak at the cork gaskets.

The diode is in the pink with black hash wire originally, it is beyond the fusible link and may be in a "bulge" in the actual wire. If it is open then the priming function won't work, the pump will not run until the oil pressure switch closes. Please, those of you who are not familiar with a 460 "hot fuel handling package" refrain from interjecting comments. The system is confusing enough, compounded by (a) Ford changing it almost yearly during it's run and (b) trying to figure out what has been done in 39 years of different owners and shops working on it. Here is the wiring I removed from Darth when I converted to EFI. This is from the starter relay around, down the left valve cover and over to the fuel pump cutoff relay. Mine did not use the tank selector relay as it is a 1986 system.

The fuel pump cutoff relay. What bothers me is the way things are hooked up now the pump should be running even with the key off. The fact that it isn't makes my suspect that there is an open circuit somewhere between the blue fusible link and the tank selector relay. Fuse link T is the blue fusible link, the way it is connected, the pink with a black hash wire should have battery voltage through the diode to the relay socket, you should also have power at the fuel pump cutoff relay 640, Red with Yellow Hash is powered by the oil pressure switch when closed; 57, black is ground; 37, Yellow is powered directly from the battery through the inertia switch (inside on the heater duct, passenger side); 787, Pink with Black Hash, is powered when the relay coil is powered by the oil pressure switch. If the power is on circuit 787, then the pump will run. You need to check these items and figure out how hosed up the wiring is (http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/florida-man-42_orig.jpg maybe) and then work on correcting it.

That should make the pump(s) run continuously as it feeds the center contact in the relay, the fact that it isn't running continuously makes me suspect the relay. Here are the diagrams from my AllData Pro:

Thanks Bill - I'll have to check that tomorrow morning. The ignition switch itself was replaced about 1.5 years ago by the same shop that did the carb and my headlight switch. Always worth a check! I was doing some searching trying to see if I could an NOS or OEM dashpot solenoid as mine looks a bit tired. No joy so far. (e2ae-9s520-ab) That's the first time I've ever really had the truck just die like that too. If I feather the gas a little bit it eventually catches idle again and holds. So, embarassing question time - where is the warm idle set screw on the right side of the carb? Is it the little slotted set screw behind the plate that meets the plunger from the solenoid? Or is it the threaded bolt that adjusts the position of the dashpot solenoid? It's been so long since I monkeyed with the carburetor that I can't remember! It is the threaded bolt that slides the whole assembly, but there should be a screw through the base of the carburetor behind the throttle shaft, that is used to set the minimum idle, primarily so the throttle plates don't stick. The small slotted screw in the lever is a "don't mess with it" it is for the TV rod to your AOD transmission.

Looking good sir! Now a word regarding this statement "As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel." The light at the end of the tunnel might just be a train coming at you.

Throttle going forward is indicative of loss of ignition system power, which by itself might not kill the engine as it is most likely an anti-dieseling solenoid.

Ok, first issue is Ford changed the "hot fuel handling package" which is what you have every year from 1983-1987 so the first thing is to find a good (don't trust Haynes or Chiltons) wiring diagram. Basics of the system are found here: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/460-fuel-systems.html however the wiring diagrams are not there for all years. The fact that it will prime indicates the pumps and wiring are there, priming is via the small blue fusible link on the starter relay (connected to the "I" terminal). On the back of the engine, there is a small switch teed into the oil pressure sender pipe: Pay no attention to the automatic/standard transmission note, it should be with Hot Fuel and Without Hot Fuel. From it a harness runs along the inside of the driver's side valve cover and over to the wiring on the inner fender. On the firewall is a fuel pump relay that this switch powers causing it to change from the priming wire to a battery power source. If the relay is clicking when the oil pressure comes up, then it is probably bad, if not then the oil pressure switch may be bad. If you unplug and jumper the plug terminals, the pump should come on and run, if you get a relay "click" and no pump, then it probably is the relay.

You said it was running quite rich, have you pulled any of the plugs to see what they look like? Part of what you describe sounds electrical related "shut off and the throttle went forward" that would indicate a loss of electrical power to the idle solenoid on the side of the carburetor. Since it is fed by the same source as the ignition system, that may be your problem. With it running, try slightly turning the key slightly back and forth, if the engine shuts off with very little motion towards "off" I would suspect the ignition switch, particularly if is the original or even just plain old.

I believe that is part of the accelerator pump circuit and I do not remember if they were connected to a thermal vacuum switch or direct manifold vacuum. Are there any letters/numbers stamped on the side of the base area near the front bolt on the driver's side? If there are, that will help me determine at least the year it was made for.

And, as I think about it, Bills spreadsheet shows spec's in lb/min, so that takes into account density. And other places talk about grams/second - again taking into account the density of the air. Bill - That then begs the question of how you got the CFM #'s. I ask because what I've found says that to get standard cubic feet/minute the air has to be at 0C and 1 atmosphere of pressure. And in that case you divide the lb/min by 0.0805321 and get SCFM. Using that calc on the F8LF MAF sensor at 5.00 volts your #'s show 598.398 CFM and mine show 556.548 SCFM. Said another way, your #'s are 8% higher than mine. It was a conversion I found on Google. If you seriously want to play with things, go put it at Standard Temperature and Pressure (Gas laws). I haven't messed with them since 1963 or 64 when I took physics in High School (in between building a cyclotron).