85lebaront2

Gary, it was caused by a misalignment in the studs (I actually used some M6 X 1.0 bolts and had used the stand offs from the 80mm MAF) the studs and stand offs were angled up slightly. I had not wanted to pull the MAF against the inlet funnel (I guess that's a good term for it) as it is glued into the end of the lid and didn't want to push it out of place. The stand offs are too long as they put the MAF a bit off the end of the inlet funnel where it is through the end. What I started with was a 1994 5.0L air filter and a 90mm MAF from a 1995 Lincoln Continental with the DOHC 4.6L V8. It was an extra assembly from a T-boned one in a local junkyard. I ended up buying the entire car for parts and stripping everything I could off it before the yard closed (property was sold to a church next to it to be their parking lot.) I cut the funnel out of the internal wall of the air filter after first trying to see if I could use the entire filter in Darth, no way it would fit without removing everything behind the left headlamp assembly. It is a roughly 1 foot diameter by 2 feet long cylinder that splits in the middle to access the filter element. The idea was to duplicate the 5.0L system using the 90mm MAF. Plan worked, the execution as far as using it worked, the precision of the build was not great. Part of the issue was actually bonding the pieces from the Continental air filter to the top of the truck air filter, I (a) do not remember what we used and (b) even if I did, no longer have access to it. On that set of tests you posted, it was a 1988 which could have had an E4OD as that was the year of introduction. Gearing plays a part too, Darth has a 3.55:1 limited slip rear axle so I am only turning around 1500 rpm at 55-60 mph, the 12.5 mpg was on a run from Exmore VA to Falling Waters WV and once off US 50 in MD, a lot of the drive was at 70-75 mph on interstate highways. Back in the late 1950s Mercury built what were sold as "Turnpike Cruisers" using Lincoln engines and a 2.69:1 rear axle ratio. They probably had 14" wheels and bias ply tires and got pretty good economy cruising at the pretty standard 55 mph speeds in those days. One more item, neither Big Blue nor Darth have the exhaust restriction of a catalytic converter followed by a pair of fairly small pipes to the end, Darth's id dual 2.5" to the muffler just in front of the axle and a 3" tail pipe. BB's is pretty open and he has headers also.

Gold pins are used in places with low signal voltage levels so that may be the reason. I built a short extension harness for Darth when I get back to working on him, it will allow either type of MAF (with or without integral ACT sensor) to be used. With an integral one, the one in the filter housing will just be left unplugged. While I had the MK 1 MAF system in hand I decided to make a template for a gasket and discovered two things, first, the F5OF-12B579-AA MAF I had ordered off eBay which looked a little rough, plastic housing etc. turned out to be an 80mm MAF with the sensor labeled F5OF-12B579-AA attached to it. Since the aluminum one had the sensor that went super lean when hot, I just pulled the sensor out of the plastic one and put it on the aluminum one. Final item, in trying to make a gasket template, I discovered that I had a roughly 1/4" off location on any of the 90mm MAF housings with the air filter lid. It is now disassembled as far as the mounting went so I can fit it together better, I need to see if I can find a small cross section O-ring that will just fit over the end of the inlet cone from the Lincoln Continental air filter assembly.

Sounds like a good haul!

32nd of Juvember. Once this weather you keep sending settles down, I need to finish my friend's 2003 E250 so he can come remove it. Then go get the plumbing fixtures (ball valves etc.) to build the test assembly. Once that is put together, I will order a new filter for the big shop vac so there won't be any restriction on it. I am waiting on a couple more pigtails so I can build one for each style MAF, ACT connection. I did notice something yesterday working on the E250, the 6 pin harness plug that goes to the air filter assembly (internal MAF) appears to have gold plated pins. I may have to either find a source or get a unit and enough wiring from a junkyard to duplicate it.

That's an opinionated question. So I'll share my opinion. I'm personally a huge fan of "loom harness tape". It's only slightly more expensive than electrical tape - single rolls can be $5-6 but you can get 5-packs for $10-12 if you buy it that way (like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHM81PV). I've had the best luck with Tesa so far but tbh every brand I've tried has seemed pretty much the same. This stuff is MUCH more abrasion resistant than electrical tape. All tapes can dry out and crack, but this seems to last longer IMO (time will tell, I've never had it on something for decades). And it's much more compact and easier to get a nice appearance than plastic loom tubes. One suggestion if you're going to try it. Don't try it to apply it the same way as electrical tape or you'll get frustrated. With electrical tape you usually want to "stretch" the tape a bit as you apply it, so usually you pull out some length of it and pull it firmly as you wrap it. You sort of apply this the same way but it doesn't stretch, so don't pull out a length of it. Just keep the roll very close to your loom as you wrap it around. I have been going back to what my dad used years ago, cloth friction tape. It seems to be what a lot of the harnesses I have worked on used originally. If I use the vinyl electrical tape, I will put a couple of passes of the friction tape at the ends as it seems to help keep it in place when I finish the run. I have a bunch of the tie wraps with release tabs I use for working on a harness as, like the Velcro, I can loosen them to add a wire I missed. A few things I have learned in rewiring several vehicles. First, when laying out a harness run, it is highly advisable to have a pattern to lay it on, both corners and up and down portions because once taped up, it can be nearly impossible to get it to fit correctly. Second, any place it runs where it needs to be able to move, whether bend or twist (power wiring into doors) the factory wiring is usually just a loose bundle secured at one or both ends allowing the wires freedom of movement. Wiring to and from the engine, needs to allow for engine movement, you would be amazed how far a large torquey engine can move against what can seem like nearly ridged mounts.

Ford will show pieces of the PDB, on the 1996 the main distribution is several pages and the engine type (gas or Diesel) makes a difference also. You have to know which parts go through it, Horn, EEC power, Fuel Pump, power feed to the ignition switch, headlight switch etc. It's probably the one place I think Chrysler did a better job. Section 8 (appropriate for any military veterans) is electrical, 8W is wiring diagrams. 8W-10 is under hood PDC, 8W-12 is inside fuse box, 8W-15 is ground distribution.

Here is the other one I was looking for: I was able to get a new "glass" for the 0 - 2" H2O one, shipping was more than the part.

I believe it is SAE J70R9 I used on my LeBaron convertible. I will have to look and let you know.

OSS is for the 4R75W transmission, the E4OD has a Coast Clutch which the 4R75W does not. As far as I have been able to determine the "customer use" probably is a PTO feature for raising the RPM.

Gary, I have no idea where you got those pin numbers, but here is C1027 and it's circuit list from AllData:Circuit 511 is primarily to let the computer know the brakes are applied to unlock the converter clutch You don't need it on BB but will on Dad's Truck.

The PSOM simply converts the pulse count from the rear axle or 4WABS system to what the old speed sensor generated. Prior to 1992 there was no PSOM, at least Ford kept comparability on their systems unlike Chrysler.

This is the original fuse box from Darth along with the cover. There are no connectors in the fuse box, but there are no burned/melted areas. Cover has the puller and 3 spare fuses in it. Anyone needs it, just pay for shipping.

I did Darth's conversion to a PDC (Power Distribution Center) about 10 years ago. It was driven by the need to change the under hood wiring to allow EFI and an E4OD in place of the Holley 4180C and miles of vacuum line, dual air pumps etc. and add the overdrive and lock up converter in place of the C6. I had started with the front end harness from the 1990 F250 parts truck as I was changing the front sheet metal due to Darth's previous owner parking by feel. The 1990 truck still had a 2G alternator and a clump of fusible links which I wanted to get rid of as some had already been patched. I also wanted to change the dash as Darth's had the usual cracks and the top pad was crumbling where the single speaker went. I had done part of the work toward installing the 1990 dash and steering column as it is very similar. The area that gave me a problem was the left side kick panel area. Ford moved the EEC from just to the right of the steering column to the left air box area by indenting the side of the airbox so the EEC fit without requiring a bulge in the left kick panel. First issue, parking brake attachment to firewall and dash wouldn't match up no matter what, so back to the drawing board. I had already extended the chassis harness by the 35" difference between a std cab 8' bed and a crew cab 8' bed when I was looking at a 1995 truck and realized the differences. Dash and steering column presented the biggest issue, but the PDC and wiring could have been used without the inside changes. One item, on a Bullnose, the main electrical feed runs from the fusible link "nest" all the way across inside the cab and comes out on the left side to a power stud. It could easily be fed from the PDC on that side, or that could be used to feed a PDC. To get the full benefit, you would still need to remove the branches off the large yellow wire and bring them out to the PDC.

A couple of tidbits, they do make tow dollies with brakes, I have one, second in 1975-1979 the F150 was essentially a downrated F250 according to my towing specialist. The F150 an D150 were both 250s downrated with somewhat lighter running gear. The Chevy and GMC "heavy half" models simply had bigger springs and the optional brakes. This was from a guy who has a bow tie branded on him.

Most scan tools look for the battery power and will not communicate without it. I believe the Mongoose pro cable uses it to get the needed 18V to enable the reflash.

Funny you should mention security of the crimp. One of the tests I had to perform was a "pull out test" on crimped on cable ends for some pretty good size cables. It had a NAVSEA spec based on the size cable. The crimp was a hexagonal shape once made and the cables were copper "strands" with an overall OD from about 3/8" up to probably 3/4". It could interesting, first getting a grip on the cable, and second getting a good straight pull on the lug. I had a few were the actual lug would pull apart without coming off.

Plan of action looks good! I did a similar one on my konvertible, but as an Excel spread sheet where I could move things up or down the list if I found the sequence needed revising, and the column after the step had a Y or N for status, Y for done, N for not done.Gary, OBD-II connector also needs battery power and ground, on the 1996 trucks it is connected to the cigarette lighter at the ash tray area.

Tell me more about what to document? What I had given him for testing to zero in on the problem he was having with the hot fuel handling package. This is the one that started with the blue fusible link hooked to the battery side of the starter relay. Copy of what I gave him for tests to determine cause: "Exactly what I suspected "Made in China". Can I get you to try some tests, first do you have a multimeter or maybe a test light? If so, then first, starter disconnected from the battery feed, wrap the starter end in a shop rag or similar so it can't short if you took it loose there. Key on, jump the S to battery, relay should make a solid "clunk" and I terminal and starter terminal should be live with battery voltage. Remove the jumper, if the starter and I terminals do not immediately loose power, go get a new relay as you have found the problem. If this test passes, you now need either a powered test light or multimeter. Using the light or meter, measure the resistance from I to the starter stud on the relay, it should be an open circuit as they are two separate contacts internally. The next one is more fun, take the positive cable off the battery, measure resistance across the relay main studs and to I. Using a jumper, activate the relay without the battery positive connected to it and again measure the resistance across and to I, it should be near 0 ohms. Leaving the meter connected, remove power from the S terminal and see again, if the relay "hangs" engaged. This is your homework assignment for tonight."

Thank you sir! Maybe we need to add this, maybe with some decent pictures to the 460 fuel systems section.

You are welcome sir! I had this system on my truck until I converted to EFI, so got quite familiar with it.

Look like Generous Motors stuff. I usually just save the connectors from old harnesses and buy replacement male and female terminals. The most common are the round wedgelock connectors in size from 1 to 8 commonly, 16 and 42, plus the odd later ones. The small wedgelock terminals are 0.060" diameter and the large ones are 0.110" diameter. PNs are: 0.060 male - E7EB-14461-BA - AUVECO 20475 0.060 female - E7EB-14487-AA - Clips & Fasteners A18408 0.110 male - D1AB-14461-AA - Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887 0.110 female - D1AB-14488-CA - Dorman 85346, AUVECO 14888

But why not just plug into C321 and pick up that W/LB-H wire? I want to use the connectors that are already there. So if I'm picking it up in one connector it doesn't look like splicing the two wires together helps since I can only pick one of them. Or, if I want to join the two wires why not use both C321 & C325 and join them in my EFI harness instead of changing the '85 wiring? That would spread the load across two connections. And, Ford used fairly small wire on the downstream part of those connectors, so it would seem good to use both of them. Here's the '96 page that led me to believe that the R/LG wire only pulls in the PCM relay: And here's the one that disabused me of that understanding: I suggested using C321 and C325 as Ford did on the EEC systems in 1985/86. They built the left side of the wiring harness to be pretty well universal for gas engines. What was plugged in to C321 and C325 depended on type of system, EEC, EFI or DS-II. When I looked at the 1990 system, the ignition switch harness has the two power sources cranking and running connected at or near the ignition switch, almost like Ford had a supply of them that needed to be depleted. Motorcraft shows a different number for 1980-86 and 1987-91, they sure look the same though. O2 sensor numbering is two digits, first is bank number, bank one being the bank #1 cylinder is on, second digit is location in the exhaust line, #x1 being first sensor, always pre-cat as it is the mixture control for that bank or the whole engine on an in-line. Sensor #x2 is 2nd sensor for the bank or system and is usually post-cat and measures the cat efficiency. One other sensor of note on these, a temperature sensor to detect a cat overheat condition.

Looks like you've got your rats, err ducks in a row on that! Don't forget O2 sensor numbering convention, HO2S 11 is right side, HO2S 21 is left side, HO2S 12 is turned off.

Gary, a couple of items, first being the ignition wiring. On the 1990 truck one did you notice the shielding (foil wrap) on the signal wires from the engine and partially to the EEC location? On the Ranger stub, same thing except it is a braided shield like coax uses over the same three wires. On the 1990 F250, the three wires at the engine plug and of the shield are SPOUT, PIP and shield ground. I do not remember how the shielding went on the 1996 harness, other than the SPOUT, PIP and shield ground are in C101. Since Big Blue never had a TFI module, other than having enough air flow for the heat sink, the only other consideration is access to the SPOUT circuit connector. On the Taurus the TFI module head sink is inside the cowl attached from the back side. You could use this location as I have a Taurus module heat sink which would allow placement near the EEC box and wiring but in a location away from the header heat (on the Taurus it was over top of the HVAC system and removed from inside the car). The only piece of the puzzle still searching for a convenient location would be the SPOUT connector.

Here is mine, keeping in mind that I pretty much used the stock EEC location. This is looking forward, so left and right are as it goes into the truck.