85lebaront2

FWIW, I do not try to do anything like that on my phone, (a) damn screen is too small (b) iPhone lightning port requires an adapter to USB, then you would need the software installed to do anything. I used a dual boot MacBook Pro when I was setting mine up, I still have it but the battery is bad, I put the new one that Apple had installed in Mary's similar one (same year span) but it won't charge. I have a new (2018) HP wide screen laptop and a newer MacBook, the one with no optical drive and only 4 thunderbolt ports. I do have a Thunderbolt to USB adapter, but that gives me only 2 USB 3 ports. On updating a 1993 truck, 1994 is the year Ford went to MAF/SEFI on the 5.0L automatic trucks, they also went roller cam and changed the firing order. Essentially, the updated wiring can be gotten from a 1994-96 F150 as far as the sequential EFI goes, front harness, first, 1994 also brought air bags, so the front harness has a lot of extra wiring and may not match the cab harness in the 1993. I think I have a 1995 front harness and may have a 5.0/5.8L engine harness. This will still be OBD-I, but I have heard there is an EEC-IV to EEC-V jumper harness, haven't seen one though. Fiveology has an OBD-II kit for the trucks and actually did a 7.5L conversion for someone in the 429/460 group on Facebook.

The pro direct flash cable is only for the EEC-V/OBD-II systems and is the interface between your laptop and the vehicle, the other equipment listed are primarily for use with EEC-IV systems where the EEC cannot be reflashed and requires a piggyback tuner (Moates, TwEECer etc.) The software supports these, but, in order to use any of them the license has to reflect it.

Damn, I'll bet you came right through Exmore too.

Gary, I thought I sent a connector with the GIN3 box and EEC-V plug.

I have no idea what it uses and don't plan on taking it apart to find out.

Yes, all grounds to negative source, if you use a battery charger, put a lawn tractor or motorcycle battery as a wave damper for the power. VPWR needs to be switchable as you will need to turn the key on and back off as the flash sequence is executed. On the OBD-II connector, 2 is 914, 10 is 915, 4 and 5 are grounds, 13 is 107 and 16 is 12V power (not needed as far as I remember, I will have to look at mine tomorrow). 914 and 915 are the comm leads, the flash enable is 18V applied to 107, this puts the EEC in a receive state. Once this is done the PC will load the tune into the EEC and the software will instruct you to turn the key off. When flashing in situ (you should understand British) I found that you need to unpower the KAPWR, I do it on Darth by pulling the underhood maxi fuse #9 which saves disconnecting the battery. No instructions, Adam will walk you through and log in on your PC and show you what to do. I had my EEC set up with the bench flash rig so it could be worked with.

Good friend had a unicorn, 1980 E150, 300 and 4 speed OD manual. Interesting vehicle to drive.

570 and 875 are both grounds, they go to different ground locations, 570, all 5 go to G101, which is near the battery on the RH fender apron, 875 goes to G104 which is near the left hood hinge. That harness I sent you is from a Crown Victoria, colors are different, use the pin locations for correct function. My test harness is the same way, one of the places Ford was not consistent.

I can add my experience with this also as I have been running Darth on their stuff since June 2013.

I couldn't remember which I sent, am am not out where I can check my inventory. All except my unicorn (a real FEZ3 box) were either TIN3 or GIN3. FYI, those are 1996 E250/350 5.8L w/E4OD and also F series same applications. So when you are prowling junk yards look for some so we will both have spares.

Pretty much, the strategy is the template for the calibration, and it may be used for more than just one engine/transmission combination.

That's right, I sent it to you with the TIN3 box and some other items. You just need to finish the wiring including a switch for the key on power.

If later I decide I want to change parameters as I drive I can add the Quarterhorse cable for $250. But he doesn't think I'll need it. As for the wide-band AFR meter, he recommended the Innovate MTX-L, and since they don't sell it I ordered it from Summit. Plus I need a serial-to-USB converter, preferably one based on the Prolific chip, in order to interface the Innovate to my computer. So I ordered this one from Amazon. The next step is to get my head around the software, and Adam strongly encouraged me to call him and he would remote-in to my computer and walk me through it. And, he suggested that I send him pics of the ECU's I have so he can make sure I have what I need, which I'll do in a bit. Anyway, I'm getting the next project lined up. Sounds very good sir, Adam is excellent at walking you through. If you need it for "learning" I can ship you my bench flash setup, or send you the information you need to build your own. I am still in the "learning" mode on Chrysler SBECs, the first version, pre-air bag as Chrysler changed the steering columns in 1992 to use a completely different speed control interface.

Which makes the decision to go with Core Tuning easy. I hope they don't shut Core Tuning down, that will leave a lot of us just slightly screwed. I would not want to go back to an EEC-IV as there was no MAF/SEFI 460 built with an EEC-IV.

Gary, try a friendly junk yard, their Hollander interchange may show what crass members will work.

This lets me directly flash the ECU with the engine off, but if I decide later that I want to be able to do it while driving then I can add the Quarter Horse for another $250. However, Adam didn't think I'd need that. Anyway, I'll pick this up over on the Big Blue thread later today. But I'm glad you posted about the Stinger option as it got me to doing something. Sounds good to me. I don't think you want to flash it "on the fly" since I believe it only will flash KOEO (key on engine off). A Quarter Horse like TwEECer allows you to have multiple tunes stored and switch between them, having been unable to get my TwEECer to work, I traded it for the "unicorn" air inlet system.

So you are now hunting unicorns?

There is a very active batch of Ford groups on FB as you know, post a request in a few of them.

The wideband issue is interesting. I have an Innovate and Adam was quite happy I did have it. It integrates nicely into the tuning software. I know Adam has some personal issues, but I have dealt with both Ben and Clint (Clint for longer than either of the others) and all of them have been very helpful.

I have grab handles in Darth because a 2WD crew cab must sit higher, probably to keep from high centering the frame. I saw one a number of years ago with no running boards or steps and it looked like you would need short ladder to get in. I know I can be alongside a lot of stock height 4WD trucks of most makes and be level with them in Darth, roof height is roughly 7' from the ground which still lets me get the car/light truck fare on the Chesapeake Bay bridge tunnel, break point is 8' high or commercial truck.

The steering box end didn't change, when I needed one for Darth, we had a perfect 1996 box from a flipped F150, I installed it using my old hoses. When I was getting ready for the EFI conversion, I used the donor truck's (1990 F250) C2 pump, which takes the newer hose, I used the hose from the 1990 into my then still 1986 steering box. Get a hose for a 1986 with the same engine, 351 if I remember correctly.

Interesting, I have looked at their site before. Amazing how many more companies are now offering systems that work with Ford's EFI and transmissions. When I was trying to set up something for Darth there was virtually no support for a truck with an E4OD, manual trans, non-computer automatics or light duty computer controlled (AOD-E, 4R70W) yes, they were used in cars, especially Mustangs) so a Mustang EEC-IV could be used with a piggyback system (TwEECer, Moates or similar). My concern with a lot of those is what happens if it quits in BFE on a holiday weekend, where do you get parts or service if needed. I have lots of spare Ford EFI parts including a few spare EEC-V boxes. If I am going on a long run, say to my son's in WV, I can toss a spare TFI on a heat sink and a pre-flashed EEC-V box in with my normal road tools and if something quits I have what it takes to get rolling again. So far most of the problems I have run into are from other than EFI components (water pump, bypass hose, radiator) some of which is due to the truck being 33 years old.

Gary, deck height 1968-1970 were 10.3, 1971 went to 10.310 and 1972 up are 10.322, you can see from the piston information I posted where Ford raised the compression height from 1.760 to 1.770 to make up for part of it.

Conventional wisdom is that kingpins are stronger, but ball joint Dana 60s aren't exactly weak. Another difference (that Shaun also mentioned) is that the ball-joint axles also had different brakes. I think people feel that the newer brakes are easier to service. And some people seem to feel that the newer brakes are a bigger improvement that kingpins, and therefore prefer the later axle. Real kingpins, not tapered roller bearings are pretty well indestructible if you grease them regularly. Darth's are 33 years old and 142,000 miles and still have no side play, up and down yes, side to side no. If I were going to go to 4WD I would damn sure find a way to keep my front coil springs, granted it's no Lincoln, but still rides way better than a leaf spring front end.

Jim, Gary, the F3TE heads do have larger valves, but the 1968-87 pistons have a 0.230" deep pocket in addition to small valve reliefs, roughly 21 ccs compression height is 1.760" (pin to crown), 1988-93 pistons have a 0.072" pocket with small valve reliefs, roughly 7 ccs and a compression height of 1.760" (what is in Darth's new engine), 1993-97 have a 0.180" pocket with valve reliefs, roughly 16 ccs and a 1.770" compression height. The E7TE and F3TE heads have a roughly 100 cc combustion chamber volume. I did a number of calculations based on bore, heads, HG and piston to get what I wanted. I wanted the block decked but the gentleman building the engine didn't want to do it that way. FWIW, the deck height increased by 0.020" in 1972 along with a head change to drop the compression.