85lebaront2

Damn, that's neat, and it is a 1986 and turbocharged (hood louvers).

I did, but when I installed that one in 1995, I didn't know what the EFI 460s had, just knew that the pre-1972 set was straight up and could be bought with a steel cam gear. Someone mentioned a "Tin Indian" earlier, Pontiac V8s had no provision for lubing the timing chain. I had a guy I worked with had a 1972 LeMans with a 350 Pontiac engine, about every 3 years I put a nice steel gear set in it, the last time, when I opened it up, the chain looked very dry, so I took a page from Oldsmobile's book, drilled a 1/16" hole in the lifter gallery plug on the right bank so it would spray oil at the slack side of the chain. Never put another one in it, 6 years later when the TH350 quit for the 4th time, engine still ran great. BTW, loved their timing cover to oil pan joint, cut at a 45° angle so it was easy to seal. For you guys who mentioned the 460 water pump plate, see what happens on a Pontiac if you leave the two plates and the inlet tubes out.

Steve, here is my roughly 16 year old steel cam gear set on my 460. This was a pre-1972 straight up set (which no one seems to carry any more).

Yes, I should have said for the same body shape & tank position. I can't remember if dually filler necks are interchangeable with stepsides, but it's worth checking. Steve, the dually filler necks are actually very stubby so you may be correct, the bulk of my filler system is molded rubber hoses.

My friend, the one I am doing the rear disc conversion for, bought me this for the 16 9/16-18 studs that have to come out then go back in.

Yes, and one I thought was a go,(he wouldn't ship) was in Englishtown NJ about 4 hours each way. No good, it was gone.

I have attached them with M6X1.0 bolts and what they call "prevailing torque" nuts (the ones that look like they were stepped on). I have had no problems with mounting them that way Be sure you get the wiring and switches too. Driver's side:

I know it's not for a Bullnose, not even a Ford, but, if anyone knows where there is a windshield for my 1986 Chrysler convertible, I would appreciate it. The body style is a K-27 and the windshield is unique to that body. Chrysler PN is: 4337 489 (may also be shown with no space in the numbers). Used if no other option, because shipping will be a pain. Thanks!

I retired 1 November 2011, actually was 65 in May, and original plan was 1 June. There was a calibration conference near DC that my supervisor wanted to take all of us to in October, so I stayed to go to it. BTW, I still haven't figured out how I had time to go to work.

I'll give you an interesting one, my son has a 2002 Excursion, 4WD with the V10 and 3.73 rear. We did a comparison of effective gearing (he has the 4R100) and the larger tires on the Excursion vs Darth's tires, he has a slight edge in effective gearing. Excursion grosses 7600 lbs vs Darth at 6400 lbs, he is running 4 wheels on the road, and has the auto-locking front hubs so normally he is not turning the 4WD components. He towed his old F150 down to Chesapeake VA from Falling Waters WV, on the route he takes, he has to cross the Blue Ridge Mountains on US 17 East of Winchester VA. He had to be in 2nd to get over that, and several more climbs same issue. Darth towing a similar load (heavy, probably 2K trailer loaded with my garage doors and other items, plus a fully loaded bed) on the uphill portions on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, went down to 3rd and walked the load right on up at 54 mph in 3rd lockup. Difference is simple, torque peaks, 460 peak is around 2200 rpm (Darth in 3rd lockup), V10 peak is 3250 rpm, which is why he was in 2nd, he couldn't reach his peak in 3rd, so the EEC dropped him to 2nd. This is why many of the big luxury cars could deliver pretty decent gas mileage on the highway (Mercury Turnpike Cruiser) but were terrible in town. On the trucks, Ford's new 7.3L gas V8 has a pretty flat torque curve from around 2000 rpm to about 4500 rpm. The newer multi-gear transmissions (Ford/GM shared 10 speed) are to allow more gear choices to keep the engine at it's "sweet spot" for both power and economy.

No, I do not have Hydroboost on Darth, just the booster from the 1990 parts donor with a new (at the time) MC. I do still have the rear load compensator. Jim, on the tractor-trailers, the air brakes are a lot simpler to make and service as a drum system. The emergency system is a second spring applied, air released, actuator on the back of the service actuator. That way if the air system is damaged or in any way not working correctly, the brakes (usually rear on the tractor and all on the trailer) are engaged. Loads of fun to manually release too.

John Gleason's truck has never had decent brakes, I think the decision maker for him was while we were working on the house in NN, and rather than get his Corvette out after backing his truck and trailer in since the restaurant we were going to closed fairly soon, I suggested he just drive Darth as I was there on the street. First corner he damn near put us both through the windshield. I told him, that's what the brakes are supposed to feel like. He's had his back to the same shop in Poquoson 4 or 5 times over brakes.

The kit is made by a company named EGR Performance Brakes located in Statesville NC. It seems to be a very comprehensive kit, but there have been a few issues. Here is the left side drum brake and hub, axle is upside down on my pneumatic frame lift as it sits on the pads by adding a scrap piece of 2X4 to get the pumpkin off the center and is fairly stable and at a convenient working height.

Yes, and it is called "bolt circle change" the 1998 up super duty trucks use a metric bolt circle that is not compatible with the older trucks. Believe me I almost bought a complete 2000 SD rear till I found I would need two different rims, two front plus one spare and 4 rear plus one spare.

I am in the process of doing a rear disc brake conversion for a good friend, actually you could say best friend as we have known each other since 1972, raised kids together, both pursued the same woman, and as he put it "you asked first". We also both campaigned my 1966 GT350 in autocross competition, he bought the tires and I provided the car. He has a 1995 F350, crew cab DRW truck similar to Darth, but with a Powerstroke Diesel. The kit he purchased from Circle Track Supply is pretty comprehensive and is offered in both Dana and Sterling versions, his is the Sterling which also encompasses the 1985-86 models. He purchased a used 4.10 traction-loc from Pete's Used Parts that came from the same truck a lot of Darth's interior and the Alcoa rims came from. I will be adding pictures as it goes along, but the gist of it, it uses Cadillac Eldorado calipers with parking brake provision and rear rotors from a later E series with rear disc brakes and the internal drum style parking brake. These still take the same bolt circle as the pre-1998 F series. In order to clear the inner dual rim, the rotor is mounted on an adapter installed on the inside of the hub and retained by the original wheel studs. In order to fit on the pilot on this aluminum adapter, the original hole in the rotor has to be enlarged to fit as the rotor hole is 4.9" ID and the pilot on the adapter is 5.4"+.

Damn, Jim did that bolt snap in shear, or when you were tightening it? I learned in dealing with fastener tests that the higher strength bolts did not do as well in shear as the lower strength stuff. If it had loosened some then that can also contribute to a shear failure and fatigue failure. One item to be aware of, counterfeit stuff from 3rd world countries and China. For somewhat better usage, but harder to find, ASTM A193? Gr B7, or B16 (these also do better in high heat environments like exhaust manifold bolts).

Well, let's see, I never had a truck until our scoutmaster tried to cut down a phone pole with his 1958 F100, grille was destroyed, but minimal frame damage (those trucks are tanks!). I had driven and worked on a 59 F100 that had a 1956 T-Bird carburetor and possibly the engine as it even had the correct Holley Load-a-matic distributor. I rebuilt the Holley 4000 on it. Because you had to be 21 to carry the boys, I would drive one of our wagons (both Mopars, a 62 Belvidere and a 59 DeSoto) and switch vehicles with Bob Addison, then scoutmaster and drive his truck with the equipment. When Hansel Price, scoutmaster at the time, wrecked his truck, I told him I would see if I could fix it. Friend who owned a junk yard had an old Army Corps of Engineers 1957 with no title, since the numbers are on removable components (doors), I straightened out the grille as best I could, swapped doors (the 58 ones were in better shape). It was a 223 6 with a 3 speed. Neighbor had a 1957 Ranchero he was going to fix, until he found the metal eating termites had carried off half the frame. It had a 312 with a Borg-Warner T85 and overdrive. I refreshed the engine, stuck a Carter AFB from a Buick 300 V8 on it and Thunderbird exhaust manifolds. Truck had a 3.73 9" rear and it would lug down to around 45 mph in OD with that 312. Friend with 1957 T-bird needed an intake with a good choke stove and for some reason the right exhaust manifold had a choke stove in it, so for the price of two sets of intake gaskets we swapped intakes. Then I got playing with a non-feedback Motorcraft 2700 VV carb, 25 mpg with that 312 in a pickup truck. We were given a 1972 Wolverine 11 1/2 foot slide-in camper, since the 58 was a 6' styleside, and the camper needed an 8' bed, it was see about stretching the truck or find a different one. I had planned out an upgrade for the 58, use a 390 I had and a custom made adapter for a dual coupling Hydramatic, change the rear to a 3.25, use a Saginaw power steering setup like the pre-1980 4WDs did, as that would put the box up front and still use the drag-link to the beam axle, brakes were a "what can I fit there" deal. Co-worker at NNS had a nice 1977 F150, with the 300 and C4 (not one of Ford's "better ideas", 300 has enough torque to burn up a C4 easily). I gave the 58 to my son-in-law. Used the 1977 until 1994 when we bought a 30 ft 5th wheel trailer, I had installed a Camper Special 390 and C6 in with a custom dual exhaust system I designed and had a local shop build. The 77 pulled the 5th wheel, just wasn't happy stopping it. Late wife was camped next to a fellow who had a 1986 F350 crew cab dually for sale, at first I wasn't real keen on it, but for $4500 it was a steal. For you youngsters, this past April was 25 years I have owned Darth. I really have no plans on replacing him, don't really like the newer stuff, Darth has still got the original king pins and muffler, no ABS, no air bags, no catalytic converter and no taxes!

As promised, unfortunately I lost a number of the mounting pictures in a hard drive failure. Right side cab board only

What year?

Ok, I will go through them, resize and post them. It may be Sunday before I get them done.

Very possible. Ford got most parts from subcontractors, and some were designed & built by those mfr.s before Ford began buying them as factory or dealer options. If it might be helpful, I do have a bunch of pictures from rebuilding mine. When I ordered the replacement hardware kit from DeeZee, I used the bolts, nuts and washers for sizing, then went to my Fastenal store (2 miles away at the time) and bought stainless fasteners so I would not have the rust problems. I also built a very sturdy rear support for the dually bed side boards (no longer made) as they were somewhat flimsy as originally built. The resulting front of the wheel structure is strong enough that when I grenaded an outside dual at 70 mph on the US 13 bypass around Salisbury MD, the only visible sign left of it is some black scuff marks on the large aluminum panel that is the support for the rear of the left side board.

I don't think they were specific to EBs - just optional on high-trim trucks (Broncos & all Fs), and part of the '94-97 EB package. But they're hard to find & expensive. The support tubes alone are $500/pr new, because all the originals rust out. I make non-tubular direct-replacement supports: https://supermotors.net/getfile/885753/thumbnail/01stepinstalla.jpg They WERE made for Broncos, std.cabs, and X-cabs. I've never seen them on a 4-door. I have DeeZee boards on Darth, they were on the truck when I got him in 1994. I had to replace all of the supports as they had rusted pretty badly and the bed side sections were originally supported by a long brace to the inside on the wheel well. I was able to get new hardware from DeeZee. Steve, your first picture of the factory optional running boards, that looks exactly like mine were, so maybe Ford got them made by DeeZee, mine actually have DeeZee on them so that was how I knew where to find parts.

Just looking down the road at needing to replace them at some point. Rear doors are power, came off a loaded 1996 F350 Centaurus conversion.

How about them? Is there some reason you can't use the same boots & locations as the fronts? I'll have to look, I don't believe the bullnose ever had rear power doors. I used a pair of 1996 rear doors on Darth. My owner's manual and EVTM do not show anything except manual rear doors in 1986.

Now how about rear ones for those of us with the country stretch limousine models?