85lebaront2

Assuming using the standard 26/27mm venturi and 270 CFM @ 3", the primaries would be rated at probably something like 125 CFM. So two of them would give you a total of 250 CFM, and that's a reasonable bump up from the 196 of the YF. Then, when you are "on it" you'd have a total of 540 CFM available, which is more than adequate. So, to your cons, the mechanical secondaries would just be something the driver would learn to live with. But the chokes could have the heater hose, or a branch thereof, looped through them. Yes? Yes, that was what Ford did on the Pintos and they are, as I mentioned very tuneable as even the emulsion tubes can be switched. Suggestion would be prowl junkyards for some, pick up several, just try to get at least two that are the same. Others will be for spare jets etc.

Nice pictures! The LX is a late 60s early 70s LTD, I had a 1970 with the 429 4V engine. It had belonged to my dept. manager's father. He caught me coming in one day and said "buy pop's car, please", dad was 90 and vision was questionable, early signs of Alzheimer's were showing up and he had a lead foot.

You would need another pair of adapters, but, the Pinto 2.0 and 2.3L engines came with Holley/Weber progressive two barrels as did the first round of Mustang II V6 engines. On the Ford versions, they are mechanical secondaries with no cold lockout provision. Chrysler used a vacuum secondary style on the 2.2L engines. Pros and cons: Ford pro, all jets are removable and easily changed for tuning. Ford cons, water heated choke, mechanical secondaries. Chrysler pros, electric choke, vacuum secondary Chrysler con, idle (low speed) jets are not removable and plug easily. Rochester built a progressive 2 barrel used on the last of their in-line sixes (250/292) and the 2.5L 4 cyl engines in the 80s, it is an odd bolt pattern and not as easily tuned as the Holley/Weber carbs. It has a Quadrajet style air valve on the secondary. Two of the smaller 2100 carbs from the 2.8L and 3.8L V6 engines could be a good choice. One item for consideration, this manifold probably does not include a heat provision and may be very cold natured.

It could be just that a 1965 or so carburetor was never designed for evaporative emission control and the internal components of the metering systems are designed with the understanding that the bowls are always open to atmosphere with no restrictions. You could have to deal with this:

It may be for when you are removing it so it can't be blown out by pressure. My front tank would actually dribble fuel in hot weather unless I used it first, the exhaust heat, even with the extra 35" between the exhaust and tank would expand the fuel enough to force it out the cap. The original evaporative system plumbing was a 3/16" line, the 1990 system used a 3/8" line to the dual canisters.

Ok, the older Ford carburetors, 2100, 4100 had always open bowl vents. Normally this type system can lead to a mixture that gets progressively richer as the air filter element gets dirty. I never recall seeing this problem on these carburetors, in fact had one in the shop that the carburetor was mostly a dirty lump, but once the ignition tune-up was done, moving the mixture screws in either direction caused the rpm to drop. Apparently Ford had these really well set up as built. One item, if you look at the later 2100s and 2150s, the bowl vents into the air filter are much bigger than the 1/4" tubes on the 2100/4100 air horn. If you could put a very sensitive manometer on the bowl vent hose you ran and run the engine with it plumbed up as an evaporative system would be, and see if there is a slight vacuum on the hoses, then when it does not want to start, just pull the hoses off the evaporative canisters for test purposes and see if it starts. You might have to come up with a way to open the bowl vent system starting with a cold engine or make sure the system isn't trying to pressurize the bowls on a cold start.

At least he is (a) accessible and (b) willing to work with you for a solution and getting the end result. Current status, enroute, address successfully changed. Means probably Monday or Tuesday due to shipping delays in Kentucky. Why the latter affects this I have no idea since they are in Statesville NC.

I figured I would give an update. While the end result may be nice, I am not sure I would recommend EGR Performance Brakes as far as customer service. Timeline currently Thursday 8/15 new rotors were in the shop being machined to be hopefully shipped that day Friday 8/16, I called to see where they were shipped, Glen was gone, would be back Tuesday. Tuesday 8/20, called, Glen was out, would be back and they would have him call, never happened. Wednesday 8/21 we were gone most of the day. Thursday 8/22 (today) finally got ahold of Glen, rotors were shipped UPS to John's address in York County, approximately 75 miles from me by road. John received notice that they are "out for delivery". Problems seem to be, (a) Glen does not delegate anything (b) does not let anyone know what he has done and © does not seem to be able to get organized.

Gary, I have definitely found a BFH is a very useful tool on the heavy frame trucks. That, and as you have found anything you can use to pull things into place.

If you say they're cast Iron, then you must agree that bolting cast Iron manifolds to them won't cause any bolt or ear problems, right? I have no idea what alloy Ford specified for blocks & heads, but I bet it was below 3.5% Carbon, which makes it steel in my mind. Can you get one tested & tell us for sure? Yep - those modifications are as much symptoms as causes. But the result is the same: junkyard, in a hurry. Not any more, I am retired, the metallurgist I worked with for years is retired, the man who ran the spectographic analyzer retired and is now deceased from Alzheimers complications, even the head Chemist has retired. When I was still working in the lab is was at a major defense contractor and we did metals, paints, plastics, trace elements, just about anything you needed. One of our outside customers through our marketing division was Ford Motor Company, I have a pair of partially finished 460 EFI valve covers that we tested the for a gasket leak issue, this resulted in the deep groove HD valve cover design. There are some high chrome, nickel, moly cast iron alloys that have very good wear resistance but can be a royal bitch to bore (Mercedes-Benz blocks) Chrysler used to use a hard iron block, which is why many of the old 318s will have loads of miles on them and still run well.

I think you CAN get direct-replacement exhaust components for bullnoses. That's pretty vague & subjective. Ford designed the engine, and the manifolds. Who can say better than Ford what qualifies as "restrictive"? I know the original exhaust manifold on my I6 was not particularly breezy, but it had another function (preheating the charge air for cold weather). But the ones on the 4.9L are widely considered to be at least as good as (if not better than) any headers. So is he claiming that every header available is made of the same material as Ford heads? Of course not, which means that statement is irrelevant. But let's examine it... The heads aren't actually "cast Iron" - they're steel. The coefficient of thermal expansion for every common type of steel (except stainless) is 6.5 E-6/°F. For the cast Iron manifolds, it's 6.7. Assuming they're assembled at 80°F, the head temperature will rise ~140°F as it reaches normal operating temperature, and the manifold might rise 1,000. So if the head & manifold are 20" long (on a V8 with four ~4" cylinders plus some extra between them & at each end), the head will grow (20x140x0.0000065)=0.0182", and the manifold will grow 0.134". So they'll move a total of 0.1158" relative to each other. Given that Ford puts a small bolt hole in an ear near the center of the manifold, and all others are oversized (meaning the manifold stays roughly centered on the head); that means that the manifold will creep ~0.0579" along the head at each end, when they're at operating temps. That's not quite 1/16" (0.0625"), which (big surprise) is about the difference in the manifold bolt diameter to the hole diameter. https://supermotors.net/getfile/770511/thumbnail/12greaseman.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1143092/thumbnail/20181210_174534.jpg You'd almost think Ford designed it to tolerate that temperature change! Steve, please explain to someone who worked in a metallurgical laboratory what alloy steel cylinder heads are made from? All of them I have seen were cast iron, most gray iron (brittle) some might be nodular iron like some Ford 9" hogsheads, and some might be malleable iron. Maybe some Flatheads were steel.

That's great as long as you can get something that fits and works. I had a 1971 Colony Park, originally a 429 2 barrel, after a little research I found the only difference in 2 and 4 barrel engines was the intake and carburetor so I installed a used intake and a Holley service replacement carb. Car had a single exhaust, with a pretty good size pipe and muffler. I believe the tailpipe was 2 1/4", the aftermarket decided in a nice example of MBA think that since the exhaust was shared in common with the Ford wagons that a nice 1 7/8" tailpipe was the best seller and all other sizes were dropped. Try to make a 429 4 barrel breathe through a tailpipe designed for a 302 2 barrel, pretty good until you either go to pull out on the interstate or pass someone and you get all the effect of a plugged converter.

That is why I always liked Weber carbs, they size things by the cylinder displacement and run 1 barrel per cylinder. Wikipedia is wrong, I have seen .98 on a 2100 before. 1.01 was the standard 302 version, if you want a real monster find a 1966 410 Mercury carb, 1.33 on it, 429 1971 2 barrel 1.21.

Thought for you, bolt a hunk of angle to the radiator support mounts on each side, even if you end up doing one side at a time you will have the leverage to twist the top in and may be able to do both sides at once with a single come along.

If you could find a couple of the 2150 carbs used on the 2.8L engines, I believe they had a less than 1" venturii, .98 or maybe even smaller would be good. The thing to remember is if the carb flows 230 CFM for example, then two of them flow 460 CFM. The old formula for best guess on carburetion is Displacement in cubic inches X max RPM X Volumetric efficiency / 3456 = CFM needed using that, 4500 RPM and 75% VE I get 293 CFM. That being said, my Shelby using the 292 ci displacement, 7500 max RPM and 85% VE should have had 539 cfm. Shelby put a 715 CFM carb on, I had 930 CFM with dual Holleys. Multiple carbs will do better than one big carb for throttle response.

Darth had none, but like BB is the HD frame.

Unless the plan is to use two non-feedback VV carbs (which setup correctly would probably run very well) I don't think it would be a problem, unless the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 has a bunch of reliefs underneath also. Holleys shouldn't be a problem, nor would any of the large base Carter, Stromberg or Rochester ones. The VV works like a 2 barrel downdraught (to use the Queen's English) Zenith-Stromberg CD carburettor, or if you prefer a Skinner Union.

The owner said it will be okay! Not only will the VV fit, but probably large base Carter BBD, Stromberg WWC and Rochester 2G series from looking at the inner set of threaded holes.

So who has a 6cyl truck? Obviously won't fit your antique Stovebolt. Looks like that adapters are for 2 barrel carbs.

The cowl is the area between the windshield and hood. The metal will come off after removing the wiper arms and removing the screws. I believe there are 5, but it's been a while. Two face forward under the hood, the others are in the slots and you almost have to feel for them.

LOL, that's ridiculous! Install a set of headers and duals on a truck, and it works so poorly it ends up in the junkyard soon after???...lol. C'mon Steve83, you can come up with something better than that! Ok, I am now on my third Ford truck. First was a 1958 F100 originally had the 223 ci six with a 3 speed column shift. After my neighbor found that the 1957 Ranchero he acquired had a terminal case of frame rot, he traded me the 312 with Borg-Warner T85 and overdrive. When I installed it in the F100 I used an FE swap mount kit as the car motor mounts are the same style on the Y-block and FE. The original truck mounts these had were a single pad at the front and a pair on the sides of the clutch housing. The gist of this is, I didn't want the elbow roaster cross over pipe nor the skinny restrictive manifolds. I manged to find a pair of T-bird manifolds and with some creative grinding and fitting was able to get a nice set of dual exhausts using Corvair Turbo mufflers (the real ones, not the ones a lot of places sell. No H pipe, just plain duals that exited under the front part of the bed, just like the factory singles did. Gas tank was behind the seat so no interference. Second truck was a 1977 F150, originally 300 six and a C4. Once I acquired a pickup camper and started using it, the 300 was ok, C4 questionable. I had been given a bunch of FE parts including a disassembled 390 camper special engine and a C6 for an FE block. This one was planned carefully, first the right side exhaust manifold is truck specific due to the outlet design to clear both the frame and starter, second, due to the front fuel tank location, the system had to go down the right side. I could not see the point in bringing one back across to the left side as it would just create more potential for rust out. What I designed and had my local shop build was right side back straight, left side crossed under the transmission extension housing (non of mine have been or are 4WD) at the point they came together, I had them install an H pipe, then left side Corvair Turbo muffler on edge (oval standing up) followed by the right side allowing the pipes to be fairly close together. Tailpipes ran in the same route the original single took and exited on a 45° angle under the right rear part of the bed. This way they were clear of the camper when it was installed. I wasn't trying to look cool or anything except have a nice free flowing exhaust. It did sound real good especially when you got on it. Current truck still has the factory muffler after 33 years, it has 2 1/2" dual pipes from the engine, down the right side into the muffler, then out with a 3" tailpipe, over the axle and straight out behind the right side dual wheels. It is pretty low restriction, the only "improvement" I made was at the recommendation of my exhaust shop, I removed the double screen in the end of the tailpipe. Since the truck is a non-catalyst vehicle the screens were flame arrestors in case of a backfire. Wife was following me on a campout while I was towing our 30 foot 5th wheel, cold engine, top of the on ramp and leveling off, I let off the gas, and she said there was a 3 foot flame from the tailpipe when the air pumps didn't divert fast enough resulting in a nice "boom" from it. Due to experience on cars, no headers for me on a truck, I don't want or need the aggravation of the leaks, rattles and just general PITA from them.

It looks like it is mostly on the passenger side. First question, does your truck have air conditioning? If not, look at the passenger side air vent, you may even want to remove it and check inside. The cowl drains on these trucks clog easily making water stand in the drain area, which is where the vents are. The other issue, my truck had no sealer inside the passenger side and the water was actually coming in at the corner seam, where the firewall, cowl and floor all join. From there it ran down to the pad under the driver's side carpet and rusted part of the lip the door weatherstrip goes over. Windshield leaks are also not uncommon on 30+ year old vehicles. If you have someone who can help you, with the carpet and pad still out, get in the truck and have it sprayed with a hose while you watch for the "trickles" and know where it is coming from. If it is coming from the corner weld area, spray undercoating inside that air box will fix the problem. On the cowl vent, if you are removing it (as Gary puts it "peeling the layers of the onion") I would suggest a piece of the good plastic screen under the panel to keep small leaves out, Ford knew there was an issue and changed the design in 1987.

If there is a tag on the carburetor, assuming it is a Ford carb, the number will tell the year of the carb. If it is a Ford carb, they partial number is stamped on the side of the flange by the front driver's side hold down stud.

Very nice looking! Someone may have either changed the intake or even the entire engine as the 351W is not a super uncommon engine in those years both as a truck and earlier car engine.