85lebaront2

Amen to that, brother. I try to explain things as best I can, and avoid a lot of technical jargon as I know not everyone (a) owned a carburetor shop (b) worked at a dealership and © spent 30 years in materials testing. I can dig up technical information for those so inclined, and post it, in fact I have in a discussion of best fasteners for exhaust manifolds. How many people know that there are two very different strengths of the common CRES bolts? Condition A is pretty soft, Condition B is pretty damn strong.

Good to know; thanks. Do you remember how much the cable was, where it came from, and how much the software was? ...wow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XGN1DNH http://www.coretuning.net/index.php/shop Steve, my package, purchased in April or May 2013, was $750 including a TIN3 EEC, several tokens (used on the initial "crack" of an EEC), the cable, software and roughly a year of free support. I actually got a little more because the 460/E4OD/F350 combination was new to them as most of their work had been Mustangs prior to that. I built a bench flash setup, using an extra 104 pin EEC plug, an extra OBD-II plug and a toggle switch for ignition on-off during the flash procedure. Adam Marrer and I spent a couple of hours on the phone and on-line with him in a remote log-in on my laptop while he walked me through the steps. I am pretty comfortable playing with it. I have dual O2 sensors one in each downpipe, and where the factory single would mount on the EEC-IV systems, an Inovate wideband O2 sensor. Some of the OBD-II items are turned off, misfire detector, catalyst overheat, 3rd O2 (post cat). We had some issues with the canister purge, in that the OBD-II is looking for a fuel tank pressure sensor. By changing it to a VMV that eliminated that code, but because the software (Binary Editor 2012) did not have a place to enter the duty cycle, it set a new code. The latest version does have that capability. The other item was the EGR, the back pressure sensor is used on the CA spec 460s, the EGR tube with the nipples and orifice is NLA from Ford and no aftermarket source exists, so we had to use the "sonic" system with the duty cycle solenoid and EGR position sensor. One thing I did, after talking with my friendly transmission shop, I have my converter clutch unlock set at 80% throttle, or just about where it will cause a downshift, this seems to completely eliminate the overheating problems with the E4OD, basically I let the 460's torque do the work, like it is a manual transmission. Example, pulling a contractor's equipment trailer loaded with two big roll up doors, three operators and the tracks for them, plus the bed loaded, coming through the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, going up the slope in the tunnels, the transmission downshifted from 4 to 3, with the converter unlocked engine was at 2700 rpm, or where it used to run towing with the C6, converter clutch re-locked, 2200 rpm at 54 mph. Nothing like having torque.

Steve, I call it a yoke, but Ford's manuals for some reason known only to Henry I call it a companion flange. I was using their terminology. Jim, it is internally threaded 1-18 so it screws over the end of the pinion and seats against the end of the splined area, there is also an installer that screws on the end, then has an outer section that presses the flange/yoke down against the bearing and slinger.

At the risk of being sarcastic, I'm sure you will find a place to "fasten" them.

That's what I was referring to as a "steering-wheel-style" or "4-slot" puller. Ok, because I have a steering wheel puller, and no way would that have gotten it apart. Remember this is a 10.25" full floating from an F350 DRW pickup and everything is bigger and heavier.

I always forget about the heavy trucks that kept the older F-series parts into the '00s. The '95-97 diesels were originally EEC-IV (no ignition, obviously) with the underhood DLC and the underdash OBD-II-compliant DLC, and most have been flashed to to be OBD-II exclusively now. That's what I mean about the early EEC-Vs not really being the same as the later ones, including the '96 1/2-tons that came off the line as EEC-V, and meeting the early requirements, but not being true EEC-V/OBD-II as they're commonly known today. Obviously the diesels can be flashed, but I don't think the '96 gas engines https://supermotors.net/getfile/892730/thumbnail/eecconnectors.jpg In any case: BigDav782 needs to follow the Haynes diagnostic procedure I mentioned earlier. Steve, I re-flash mine very easily, I use this cable: Here is screenshot of the meters screen on the software, Binary Editor form Core Tuning LLC: Sorry about the glare on the screen.

It has threaded holes that will work with a common bolt-grip (steering-wheel-style) puller. I spent up for a used (ebay) SnapOn bar puller set, and a new OTC slide hammer set (which can also be used with its included standard-size pressure-screw; IOW same screw as the SnapOn). https://supermotors.net/getfile/940441/thumbnail/42pullerspress.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/940423/thumbnail/11hammers.jpg On some older Honda front wheel hubs, I found it MUCH quicker to use the 4-slot frame on the lugs, but the slide hammer (hitting in BOTH directions) instead of the pressure screw. For whatever reason, that seemed to break them loose much faster than the pressure screw alone, or only hitting outward with the slide. That might be necessary for a stuck companion flange. The guy who regeared my disk swap axle said he & his son had a helluva time breaking mine loose from the pinion splines. Fortunately, I already had another flange cleaned & painted for him to use, so it didn't matter what he did to that one. Steve, I actually used my Snap-On balancer puller with a pair of 5/16-24 X 1 1/2" Gr 8 bolts and some thick washers. I thought about the steering wheel puller, but didn't think it would be strong enough. Here is the pinion being driven out using Ford tool T85T-4209-AH Here is the 10 tooth pinion after removal, note the rusty area on the shaft, that is where the outer bearing was.

Jim, I am using my balancer puller with a couple of Gr 8 5/16-24 bolts.

He is! A gentleman and a scholar, in fact. I just hope my grandmother can climb down from DEFCON 1 when I visit her this weekend. Matthew, you should know that electronics need cooling. Old, inefficient, electronics need even more cooling. Stuffed under the seat, or in the kick, there's almost no airflow. Compared to a 70 mph breeze on the inner fender. I do know that. But...I also know that the source of the heat plays an important role when it comes to cooling - does the majority of the heat come internally from the power consumption of the module (anyone know what the draw is for these things?), or does it come externally from that lump of iron and fire sitting just a couple of feet away? Then you have the problem of sitting in traffic, and the only breeze is coming from the engine fan, which is pulling air through a hot radiator. A better solution would be a better heatsink or a radiator as part of the case. Milling the top flat and adding some fins with paste between would help way more than isolating it from airflow. Possibly...but I suspect Ford determined otherwise, and that's why when ECUs replaced ignition modules, they were put under the seat. Only the EEC-III was under the seat, EEC-IV and EEC-V are in the cab, the 1985.5 and 1986 ones were in the dash, right side of the column, 1987-1996/7 they were outboard of the parking brake pedal with the connector on the engine side of the firewall, box inside.

I already did, years before you asked. It's in that caption. If you want to know, read it. EEC-V is very different from EEC-IV. Most EEC-V doesn't even use an ICM; they're mostly COP. Some of the VERY-early ones were EDIS, and I think only the '96 F/Bronco was EEC-V (compliant, though not really) TFI-IV. I'm not sure about E-series. If the 1996 Bronco was under 8500 GVWR it would have been OBD-II compliant. There are a lot of the early EEC-V systems out there that still used a distributor. Any F or E series under 8500 GVWR that still used any of the older engines (4.9L, 5.0L or 5.8L) built for the 1996 up MY would be EEC-V. The over 8500 GVWR trucks could (and many were) be OBD-I and still using the EEC-IV system, however, California set the break point at 14000 GVWR which gives those of us with the 7.5L (460) a source of parts (scarce) and wiring + an MAF size to do what I did. I was told by a fellow on FTE that they were a "unicorn" to which I replied "I have your unicorn" and posted this picture: That is an actual California F250/350 7.5L/E4OD EEC-V for MAF/SEFI.

The E-series still used the Dana rear axles, the one you have to pull the axle to get the hub off. Baddog8it, your truck may have the Sterling, 1985 was the change year. The water could have come from the truck it was pulled from, or sitting around first in John's yard then on my trailer. The vent hose was broken, but the nipple was plugged with crud. So far, one of the differential side bearings is pitted (new ones in installation kit) and the pinion bearings feel rough when turning it. Today, I will see if I can coax the companion flange (Ford's term) off the pinion.

No, it appeared in 5.0L trucks mid-year of '93, as that diagram shows. That's not how Ford says it works. That does NOT apply to all aftermarket ICMs. Some makers just molded them all in gray. I will put it this way, (a) you are correct as far as I can tell on the introduction on the 5.0L. (b) I am quoting what I was told by Core Tuning as regards to my EEC-V system. © I was only referring to Motorcraft as I personally have had some bad experiences with aftermarket ICMs. So tell me how does an ignition PIP generated at 10° BTDC get moved to 35° BTDC? Time machine maybe?

Ok, update on this, left side is now done, had some issues getting the runout the rotor in tolerance. But both sides are done, and for my next trick, ring and pinion along with tone ring and bearings. Drain plug in bottom where the low area of the casting is, 3/8" NPT and a nice hex socket plug. And the fun begins, differential is out, if the bolts I bought will do it I will be able to persuade the companion flange to let go of the pinion splines.

How about dual Holleys and side exhausts? Main difference, Shelby could and did get 18-20 mpg at 70 mph, when the national 55 mph speed limits came out, it cost me from 2-4 mpg on the Shelby and even more on the Jetfire (it would get 22-24 at 70). As far as sound, you could hear the Shelby at WOT roughly 3 miles away.

I haven't worked on many '90-91 trucks, so I'm not sure about that. I've always known WHY it moved, but I thought it moved in '92. Haynes seems to agree with you, though. ICM. Every time, in all ignition systems that have a separate ICM of any kind. And you're confusing the functionality of the early TFI-IV push-start SPOUT with that of the later TFI-IV CCD SPOUT. This caption explains both systems, and why the change occurred: https://supermotors.net/getfile/833750/thumbnail/distributor9296.jpg I've never studied the firing of bank-fired injectors in detail, but I always assumed each bank was fired each time ONE of its cylinders was on the intake stroke (intake valve open). Next time I have a noid light handy, I'll try to remember to check how many times it flashes if I spin the distributor once. I know there's an index vane on the PIP wheel, but I've never read anything that says the ICM does anything with it, including sending that index on the SPOUT to tell an EEC-IV when it's on cyl. 1. But that might be another reason for the switch to CCD, which DOES send the falling edge to the EEC - so it can fire sequential injectors. I'm just not sure about push-start. I do know that I can't detect any difference from behind the wheel running a CCD truck on a push-start ICM; nor on a push-start truck running a CCD ICM. Steve, I am very familiar with the different varieties of Ford ICMs, if you look at the diagrams, yes, EEC-IV systems through 1994 used the "push start" ICM, starting in 1995 the CCD system was introduced. On all the Ford EFI systems on trucks the PIP signal goes to the ICM, but, the EEC also receives the signal so the spark advance can be established. Essentially the EEC takes the previous pulse and delays it to the proper advance for the next cylinder. The EEC is using the RPM to determine the number of milliseconds the pulse through the SPOUT wire needs to be delayed. Example, cyl #1 pulse is received, next cylinder in order is #5, so desired advance is 35° #1 is 90° ahead of #5, SPOUT signal needs to go out 55° after the #1 PIP signal. The "push start" uses a signal from circuit 32 (R/LB) to tell the ICM to use the maximum dwell for a hot cranking spark. In 1995 this terminal on the ICM (pin 4 on all) became IDM out from Start Signal In. These are easily identified by color, gray ICMs are "push start" and black ICMs are CCD and both distributor and remote mount styles were made. TFI_5.bmp

Gary, neither did my Shelby, if it wasn't on the highway, we usually had an autocross on a Sunday afternoon, so it got run pretty hard, many time right up to the redline at 7000.

Sea Foam is going to suggest their product whether it works better or not, they are in business to make money. Steve, when I was doing this, there really weren't too many catalytic converters, most of what I was doing this to were big block Chrysler products that originally had Holley 4160s built to Chrysler specs and after either doing the TSB modification during a rebuild or replacing them with Carter AFB or AVS carbs, they were so carboned up they would hardly run. The alternative was to tell the owner to take it out on I-64 and go up to Williamsburg and back, not hard running but just a good highway run. These engines would glaze the plugs if you ran them hard after repairing them.

That is how I did the harnesses on Darth, the worst was the rear chassis harness. The bricknose donor was a standard cab long bed so in order to use the rear harness I had to add 35" to the portion forward of the front tank and behind the transmission. If you or anyone else needs it I have a fairly complete rear chassis harness from a 1986 crew cab with electric pumps.

The issue is, the older engines, even EFI ones were not calibrated for the 10% ethanol the government mandated. I am fortunate in the fact that I have a station at the North end of town that sells ethanol free premium (lots of boats here). I use it in all my small engines and have only put that in my project car (1986 Chrysler Lebaron convertible with the turbo II intercooled 2.2L engine.

ICM on the base of the distributor - not to the EEC. The best diagnostic procedure for TFI-IV '85-93 is Haynes Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or 7, depending on edition). https://supermotors.net/getfile/449785/thumbnail/hayneses.jpg Steve, ICM was moved from the base of the distributor to the inside rear of the left front fender starting in 1990 due to engine heat causing failures. On the EEC-IV the PIP (profile Ignition Pickup) goes from the distributor to the EEC, then is returned to the ICM via the SPOUT wire. With the SPOUT disconnected the system reverts to triggering of the leading edge of the shutter in the distributor. For further information, there are actually two signals that come from the PIP, one is a leading edge trigger which is a crank pulse since it occurs X times per distributor revolution, where X = number of cylinders. The second is vane width pulse, which is a cam position pulse. The narrow vane on the TFI/EFI distributors is for number 1 cylinder. On most truck systems this isn't super critical as it fires the bank one injectors, bank two being fired 180° later I believe. On a sequential injection system, such as the later Windsor and 300 engines use, it starts the firing order sequence for the injectors. This is why "clocking" the plug wires to correct an improper distributor installation is not a good idea.

Yes, and years ago Goerlich exhaust said the 1 7/8" tailpipe was "compatible" with my 1971 Colony Park 429 engines's exhaust. Funny the original was 2 1/4". Oh, you have to use a reducer to fit it to the muffler. Tell me how a pipe with an ID of 1 3/4" will flow as much as one with an ID of 2 1/8"? That is a cross sectional area of 5.5 square inches vs 6.68 square inches or only 82% of the area. Yes, it is compatible, it will physically fit, flow enough at WOT, not! It was shortly after that I had a pair of dual exhausts installed.

Old Mercedes-Benz technician's trick, take the caliper closest to the clutch slave, find a piece of rubber vacuum line that fits snugly over the end of the bleeder screw and will reach to the clutch slave. Put it over the slave bleeder screw and the caliper bleeder screw. Loosen the slave bleeder about 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have your helper depress the brake pedal, not super hard and open the caliper bleed screw till you here fluid flowing. When the pedal bottoms, close the bleeder and have her release the pedal, repeat a few times until the clutch MC reservoir is ready to overflow, that proves no air is left. Close the slave bleeder and try the clutch for feel. Mercedes-Benz clutch master cylinders sit on an angle and are impossible to bleed other than this or with a pressure bleeder from below.

His should be a DS-II, if nothing else you can demo the DS-II tester I traded you for the extra scope. I believe that the DS-II pickups were the same, but it requires disassembling the distributor for replacement. I would be inclined to suspect the DS-II module more than the pickup coil, I had one go out on Darth pulling our 5th wheel trailer up 7 mountains grade on Rt. 322 in central PA. Just suddenly lost power, not like running out of gas, just like the key was turned off, big clue was the tach dropped like the key was off. Grabbed the spare DS-II box from behind the seat, swapped the plugs and wedged it where it couldn't move and finished the climb into the fairgrounds for the PA state Good Sam Samboree.

Some sites I go to use WordPress, I can ask my IT guy (you know who Gary) and see what he says, or I can send you his email privately. We were using a hosting company he uses for his private site so it was different, and we used PHPNuke for it.

Gary, not working using Chrome on desktop, just blank then pictures, using Micro$oft edge I get this: