85lebaront2

Heh, that would be cool. :) Where do you live? Ocala, FLorida still? That's over 1700 miles one way, at least 26 hours just driving. Make it a 2-week road trip-kind of thing and stay here a while and you're on! :) I decided to finish installing the replacement tank before I go take something more (the carburetor) apart. Got the tank physically installed but am having troubles with the filler tube, I wish it were about an inch longer. Maybe I'll try again this weekend, depending on weather. Chris, are you sure the hose is on the right way? Mine have the bend at the tank and cross over the frame, then get weird due to being a dually.

Actually, the fancy powder coated hardware has been on for a while. Today I got the windshield outside trim on with nice CRES #8 X 3/4" sheet metal screws. The side pieces are primarily retained by the weatherstrip channels for the front windows. I put the 2001 Sebring convertible rear view mirror on and plugged it in, so I now have a higher level courtesy light than under dash and doors. Then, since the tachometer in the analog dash works when it feels like it, I put one of the $10 digital ones in.

When I bled the ones on my convertible, which has the dual diagonal system, LF & RR then RF & LR paired, I opened the bleeder screws on all 4 corners until I started seeing fluid drip. As each caliper started dripping I closed that bleeder screw. The right rear, which has the longest line took close to 1 1/2 hrs before any fluid appeared. When I had an available helper, I bled them the rest of the way, very few bubbles and only on the rear calipers.

No problem, I got extremely well acquainted with this system as mine was originally carbureted with the in-tank low pressure pumps.

It was to get a profile of the windshield curvature at the dashboard area, they are based on 1" spacing at the bottom and are roughly 0.85" apart. The 1989 dash bolts in, but the windshield on the 1986 is not raked back as much as the 1989 one. I was measuring how much of a filler I will need so the bolts holding the top of the dash in are hidden.

Chris, dumb question, did you perchance run it through a deep puddle with it hot? I have seen collapsed exhaust pipes from this.

Haven't updated this in a while, but major milestone today, windshield is installed, I had it shipped to a local company and since he had a job just up the road, he was able to do it for their minimum charge of 1 hr labor, $95. I had all the old glass out, trim off and everything pretty well cleaned. From the front: From inside: Top left corner, they use a polyurethane adhesive:

You sure you didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express?

E-series is narrower than an F-series. The later RV/box truck E350 rear disc setup could, in theory, be used on an F350 dually. Unfortunately my favorite junkyard doesn't have any yet. Back to our regularly scheduled report. Wednesday I picked up a big bearing splitter at Harbor Freight in Salisbury. I found it wouldn't quite get the bearings completely off the differential. When I went to Virginia Beach Friday, I picked up a pair of 5/8-18 X 2" Gr 8 bolts to use to push the bearings off. Worked perfectly. Next phase, pressed a new inner pinion bearing and a .015" shim (original had .025", new pinion has -10 on it). Assembled the pinion, less crush sleeve for a trial fit. Pressed new side bearings on the differential, and installed the new tone ring and 3.73 ring gear (same 41 tooth count as the 4.10, pinion is 11 vs 10 tooth). Put the differential in and with the starting shim size on the left, and all slack taken up on the right, I had 0 backlash. Removed .020 from the left side, added .020 to the right side, .009" backlash, tolerance is .008-.015, desired is .012-.015. Time to roll a pattern and see where everything is. Drive side: Coast side: Looks pretty good to me.

At worst case, the seal washer is common to a lot of GM carbs with the sintered bronze filter.

Unfortunately, the only one I have is the one from Darth. According to the list it should be E4TZ-2B257-C which is not the one you need, that would be E4TZ-2B257-A

The screen, aftermarket Holleys, particularly the dual feed "cathedral" bowls used the GM sintered brass filters.

Yes they have (a) a screen in each tank and (b) a vapor separator in the fuel line coming up to the carburetor and © a filter at the carburetor inlet. Here is the one on mine (circled in red) when I removed it. Purolator F23146, WIX 33098, Duralast (AutoZone) FF1205DL

I fully agree, that is why Accomack GoGlass will be installing the one in my Chrysler convertible Monday. I removed all the trim (big job on a K-car convertible) and scraped as much of the old sealer out as I could get since I wanted to make sure there were no rusted areas.

Thanks, man, the garage was a summer project between jobs 2 years ago by now. I haven't pursued the winch mountings more than getting a good friend who's good at fabricating stuff to come over and look at everything and think about it. And I've got a new job that sometimes has me working weird hours, so.... As for what I did to my truck recently, I'm in the midst of replacing the side tank; I got one of those painted ones off of Rock Auto because I've had bad luck with Spectra products and don't feel like repeating that any more. But I'm running it off of the rear tank, and I changed the fuel filter at the carburetor (again). Then, figured out the rear secondaries aren't opening... no wonder it won't rev real high... my father says to convert them to mechanical because vacuum-operated secondaries have never been reliable (he says). I think I'll begin with investigating the vacuum actuator. Holley Truck Avenger 670 cfm. Vacuum secondaries are very reliable, and very repeatable on opening points. A torn or dry rotted diaphragm is what kills them.

Great! Worth the aggravation?

I am pretty sure I know who you are referring to. I have butted heads with a few on here and definitely with a number on FTE. One on FTE was great, he told me that I didn't know anything about a particular carburetor, so I posted I was fine with his opinion and he could do what he wanted. I think three other members told him he had just made a huge mistake as I was probably the only person who really understood all types of carburetors. I monitored the thread for about a week before he begged me to please help. Gary may even remember the incident. I am not perfect, I will freely admit it, I try to share my knowledge as fairly as possible and if I don't really have an opinion I will not comment, in the interest of not creating confusion. FWIW, I am one of what Gary called "founding fathers" when he started the site, and have tried to keep the idea of a friendly group where questions asked are answered without trying to belittle anyone's lack of specific knowledge. In my opinion, the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask.

It is designed to pop out when hit from inside, however, as the Butyl tape ages it gets harder. I can ask Monday when the local windshield installer comes to put the one in my convertible. One warning on windshields, every company I have dealt with is convinced that ALL 1980-1996/7 pickup trucks and Broncos use the same windshield. Wrong! The VIN location on the 1980-86 models is approximately 2" further inboard than the 1987-96/7 location and the black section on the bottom of the later windshield covers the VIN plate making it unreadable.

Gary, I really hadn't had a chance to play with it, but works great and makes perfect sense. If you know where a missing fastener is supposed to go, bingo, there's the PN and possible source.

I have a Craftsman upright one I bought used on a local sales site. It had a simple fitting, so I added the setup I had on my old 220V one I had in NN. The compressor puts out 125psi at it's cutoff, I usually regulate it down to 100 psi for most use. We had a new front window installed earlier this year, and when the people came to install it, they had one of the little pancake style ones. I ran him a nice line over as the small line I use for tyre inflation is the size most people have. I had to drop the pressure down to 60psi for his nailers. He did almost the whole job before the compressor cycled. I have since added a brace to the tank handle to keep the dryer/regulator/oiler from shifting.

Thousands! And I'm powder coating every one of them. And a few other things along the way.

Sounds good to me, and you have contributed another piece of knowledge into the forum database.

I stopped at the HF store in Salisbury yesterday because I found I needed a larger bearing splitter for the Sterling 10.25". $29.97 + the government's cut. It looks pretty hefty and if it gets 3 bearings off (pinion inner to get the shim thickness and the two on the differential case) I will be very satisfied.

Nice sir, the lack of sources for a lot of these is why I have lots of jars full of screws, maybe now I can put numbers on them. A suggestion, AuVeCo carries a lot of these, and you will probably not be too surprised to find that Chrysler Ford and GM frequently use the same hardware, just different PNs.

I have a psychological aversion to paying THAT MUCH for anything that CAN work, but is intentionally programmed NOT to work because its maker wants to extort extra $$$ from me each time I use what I've already paid for. That, and the fact that I like being able to grab junkyard parts whenever I need them (without going thru all that hassle), will keep my vehicles running the way Ford programmed them to for a LONG time to come. What a nightmare! That's another reason I won't be investing in that system. I don't want to spend that much time learning how to use the tool. I've been helping a local shop recently that specializes in Land Rover repairs, and there were 2 problem-children (both 2016 RRSports) that required that kind of assistance from both an out-of-state, and an overseas diagnostician. Fortunately, the equipment supplier also supplies that assistance free (with the yearly subscription - no extra for each instance). Because this shop had an older scanner that doesn't support pass-through programming (the overseas guy had to write code into several ECMs for about 10 hours over a few days for ONE of these abominations), they overnighted us the newer scanner as a loaner. Turns out, we identified an error in the factory (Land Rover) software, so it's going back through the chain before more vehicles are affected. (Or is it "INfected"?) The point being - I don't want to spend that kind of time & effort on a 30-year-old $2K truck. I really didn't want to on those 3-year-old $50K vehicles, either. Well, since (a) my truck is 33 years old and (b) I pay no personal property taxes on it and © I have no catalytic converter, air bags or ABS and (d) it was paid for when I bought it cash in 1994, If I want to spend $750 to be able to do what I want and not be at the mercy of some tuning shop, then that is my choice. I have no real use for a 4WD, lots of people do, for the once in a blue moon I might actually need 4WD, the added weight, complication and increased height aren't worth it to me.