85lebaront2

If the master is leaking fluid into the booster, the vacuum inside the booster can pull fluid into the intake of the truck, where it gets burned and goes out the exhaust. Diesel engines have a external vacuum pump, belt driven on Ford's that provides the vacuum for brakes, HVAC and transmission sinal on the C6. The two reservoirs are, small for rear brakes and large for the front brakes, the reason is the caliper pistons keep moving out until the pads are exhausted. I would look at the steel lines under the truck, in particular where the line turns from down the frame to go inward for the rear brakes, there is a low area that collects dirt and water and will cause the line to rust through (ask me how I know). Here is the best picture of the area I could find, red line is the brake line to the load compensating valve.

Damn Jim, the only time Darth got that low was towing a 30 ft 5th wheel into a 35 mph head wind at right around 70 mph (trying to keep up with a German driving a big motorhome). Basically trying to drive 105 mph, I am pretty sure the secondaries on the 4180 were at least partially open.

If you don't want to get things messy, use a propane torch valve on a low setting and not lit. Carefully aim it an any joint, manifold to head, carburetor mounting, vacuum trees. Unfortunately when everyone went to full numeric plug PNs for ease of computer use they do not mean as much as they used to, on the older numbers, Autolite would be higher numbers were hotter. My truck uses an ASF-42, colder would be ASF-32, resistor plug would be ARSF-42. The plugs do look lean to me, but depending on the actual heat range that could be misleading. Here is what I was referring to on the secondary metering bodies: https://www.holley.com/search/?q=Secondary%20metering%20bodies There used to be a real long list of these as both main and idle jets are in them.

No, the older Holleys have fixed secondary idle circuits, and if you look at the specs on the metering bodies (plate in the rear bowl) they have both main and idle jet sizes specified. Like I said, I miss not having the 3" thick Holley catalog I had at Preston.

Maybe and maybe not, I would need the Holley list number and even then without my big Holley book I had at Preston it would be a crap shoot. If there are feed holes and a transition slot in the back side of the throttle body, then it has secondary idle circuits. Holley used them on almost all 4150 and many 4160 series carbs.

Ok, two items, king pins are never as free moving as ball joints and front end alignment on a Twin I-beam front end with king pins is interesting to say the least. There is a rather involved set of measurement criteria, front and rear suspension height both need to be checked and the frame angle in relation to the ground or alignment rack. These have to be entered into the fancy computer alignment machines. This is because both caster and camber change as the I-beams "stroke" up and down. The last piece of the puzzle is correcting and errors, the only real certain way is to bend the beams. Properly done it will last very well, Darth's last full alignment was 25 years ago, not long after I got him. My front tyres wear perfectly even and will have been on him 5 years in December. That being said, even at best these trucks will wander a bit, Darth requires you to stay alert as he will drift away from the road crown.

Gary, Holleys do not have a secondary air valve, Carter AVS and Thermoquads , Rochester Quadrajets, Motorcraft 4300 and 4300D use them. You can look down the secondaries and see if it looks like there is fuel from the idle circuits showing at the rear of the throttle plates. Take the shaft on the driver's side and try to rotate in clockwise, if it moves and the idle drops that is your problem. You can also slide a piece of thin hose in and listen for a load hiss with the engine running.

I don't know about Shaun, but I (a) do not go on forums etc. on my phone unless I have to look for something (b) do not use gmail on my phone unless I am expecting something I need to see © when I am in my garage it is a steel building and well grounded so with the doors closed I have little or no reception (d) when working on something I generally ignore my phone as getting my hands on it, unlocking it and hoping I have a good enough signal to actually answer it results in 10-15 mins or more of nothing getting done and being totally PO'd at what was probably a spam call.

I will add to that, make sure the secondary throttle plates are closed and not sticking.

Where is your vacuum advance connected? Ford for years used a ported spark advance, which on most all Holley carbs was the port on the primary metering block. On your AFR sensor, what make is it? Sanity check, try closing the choke by hand until the engine starts to load up from being too rich, don't keep it there too long as you can foul your plugs. If the AFR doesn't peg rich, then something isn't working correctly. My unit is an Innovate LC-1 with their LM-1 meter, it takes it a little to warm up, then works quite well. There should be instructions on doing a free air calibration on the system. Here is the step on mine: 5.1. Free air calibration To achieve maximum precision, the LM-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently. When the measured lambda is greater than 6, the display will show the oxygen content in %. For free air it should show 20.9%. If the display value is different by more than 0.6%, recalibrate. You can test the oxygen sensor by breathing on it. The oxygen content of your breath will show. If you can pull a couple of plugs and get pictures and post them, there are several of us who are pretty good at "reading plugs".

Probably the V10, it has a very flat exhaust note like a 300. On the EFI, I am extremely familiar with positive pressure MAP sensors, considering I ran 14 psi boost on my 1985 Lebaron konvertible and will be running 15 on it's replacement. GM used a 3 bar MAP sensor on the turbocharged 3.8L V6s, in particular the Buick Regal GNX. The normal MAP sensor is a 1 BAR or 0 - 15 psi with 15 psi being atmospheric pressure at sea level (where I am) the 2 bar is a 0 - 30 psi, with 15 being mid scale and the 3 BAR, 15 is 1/3 scale. All these are 0 - 5V output, unlike Ford's which is a frequency output. On my Chrysler system, the computer is set up for 2.5V to be atmospheric pressure, 0V to be a perfect vacuum and 5V to be 15 psi boost. A 3 BAR is going to be 1.67V at atmospheric pressure, 0V at a perfect vacuum and 3.33V at 15 psi boost, 5V at 30 psi boost.

Gary is correct, starting setting on older Holley carbs is 1.5 turns out from seated, some of the emission ones need 2.5 turns out from seated. Only time you worry about idle AFR would be with a catalytic converter, and then there is a specific procedure either a lean drop or artificial enrichment. EFI systems control the mixture at idle, part throttle load and cruise, under WOT, they revert to preset tables. There are a few emission carbs where the idle mixture screws are actually air bleeds, these are ones where the richest idle mixture is still on the order of 14-16:1.

Try looking for updated seals in the TSB files for the D60, also look at some of the 4WD sites for suggestions and fixes for the worn spindle. Sorry I can't be of more help, but most of my 4WD work was on sealed axle ends. I think the last Fords with those were 1973 models.

That's not really surprising, I bought one that was supposed to be a specific manual for Ford trucks. It was about 1 1/2" thick and wasn't really that good. I ended up buying the factory manual set for Darth from Helm Inc. You can look on eBay for manuals, Blackhat Auctions (eBay store Lorie and Jeff) frequently will have manuals and tools.

Welcome to the forum! My son had a 1986 F150 4WD with the EFI 302, but his had the AOD transmission. It was a nice truck, but he bought a moderate size camper and it wasn't real happy towing it.

That's the easy one, the return fitting on the 1985 through probably 1987, and possibly going clear back to 1983 is a very strange piece. Apparently it is originally a swivel fitting where it goes into the water pump, but Darth's had been brazed together making a water pump replacement interesting.

I can measure it, but, if you go to some of the other seal listings you should be able to find it. As far as I know the rear full floating hubs on the Sterling 10.25" are the same physical size from 1985-1997 (the hubs on this 1996 axle had E5 casting numbers). The seal for my original axle comes up with these dimensions: Rear; 3.938 ID X 5.509 OD X 0.875 Thick from Rock Auto's listing (this is a Motorcraft BRS37) the thickness would be the only real difference as the OD and ID didn't change.

Ok, as promised here are the pictures of the Motorcraft BRS-83 seal. First, the oil side, this is the portion next to the slinger and bearing cone and rollers. The inner part is stationary and goes over the axle tube, there is a bit of float to the pieces. Second the air side, the two portions of the metal shell are visible in the picture, when you pull the hub, the seal will separate at the joint as the inner sleeve will be stuck to the tube. The installer tool has a recess for the protruding inner portion of the shell. And finally, the box label with the PNs on it, for some reason the F didn't print.

We had those at NNS and the USMC AMTRACS had a dial unit with a hand crank and one long reaction lever.

That is essentially how the Ford seal works, the inner is a rubber sleeve essentially that goes over the axle tube when the hub is installed. The outer is metal and is installed in the hub with a special driver, T93T-1175-AR that has a recess for the inner side of the seal. I will get some pictures later.

No, I was referring to the newer seal, the 1994 up one, TSB 94-19-24. I will not take one of my new ones apart, but may be able to show how it works.

I was just wondering the same thing. I don't know about the Scottseal, but the Ford replacement seal for the rear full floating hub Motorcraft BRS83 is a real nice piece, the actual seal is internal to the casing so no wear on the axle tube at all.

Sounds good to me! Welcome Ray!

That's the one, same as the one on Darth. Get a 1994-96/7 upper radiator hose, it does away with the "hump" to clear the smoke grinders (air pumps).

I think I have a number of Carter manuals I have downloaded and saved, unfortunately the AVS isn't one I had saved.