85lebaront2

That's what is on Darth, one of Ryan's 160 amp 3Gs. In the years I have had it, I had to replace the bearings after about 2 years, they were cheap Chinesium ones and a set of brushes this year (started acting strange, light would come on but voltage stayed reasonable) I drove it back from Newport News to Exmore like that and lights stayed bright and had no real issues.

Yes, but the adapter on Huck's block is the "grenade" one with the oil to water cooler. Huck and Big Blue should have a male/female bushing in the block that the hollow bolt from the adapter screws into.

Only if I kept the 1993 pinion, the difference is the pinion and yoke, housing didn't change. Since I used the 1990 innards I ended up selling the yoke to an FTE member who needed it.

AOD is not anywhere near as strong as a C6. On limited slip, I have the Ford Traction Loc in the rear of Darth, he will lay 4 nice stripes from the duals if I stomp him from a standing start. Once the new engine with more compression is in, He will probably do even better. Stock 460 torque peak is around 2200, which if I drop the E4OD to D (third) that is 55 mph in lockup, 2700 in unlocked (500 rpm slippage). I redid my Sterling 10.25 with my granddaughter's help. I took a differential, ring and pinion from the 1990 parts truck and installed in a 1993+ housing that had a water damaged open 4.10 in it. This gave me the same 3.55 gear I had but limited slip and the later dually 3 1/2" wide brakes. Unfortunately, it wasn't new enough for the updated rear hubs.

I had belt slippage on Darth even with the polygroove belt and no Thermactor pump (more pulley wrap), I installed a slightly larger pulley, and no more problem.

No, I just no longer really had a use for it since Darth and the Taurus are TFI systems, Flex is COP, and It does me no good on a Chrysler system as theirs is in the engine electronics, either the power module (1981-87, SMEC power board (1988-89) or the SBEC/SBEC2 (1990-?) the last varies depending on vehicle and powertrain options.

Aerostars were front engine RWD, I believe on a Ranger based chassis, Windstars were sidewinders based on a Taurus derived chassis.

In any case...I had custom duals made up locally anyway, and they're awesome! My point was, all of the shorty headers are listed as fitting 1987-up trucks, but they will also fit the Bullnose trucks just fine...but you may need some custom exhaust pipe work....which you would have needed with longtubes anyway. Rembrant, I'm planning on custom duals anyway, it's the accessibility that I'm trying to weed-out the worst ones, and i agree, long-tube have been a PITA for me as well. I've since bee swayed to look at Magnaflow mufflers and stock type ball collectors to start the system. One thing to keep in mind, if you have the mid chassis (left side) fuel tank, duals down that side are not possible unless they are outside the frame. Look at a Walker or other exhaust catalog and the 1984.5 - 1987 460 system, it is nice big duals to the muffler and is quite free flowing (sounds nice too).

I don't had a DS tester, I gave it to you in trade for the MAC scope.

I don't know if he does any more, he is IT manager for Olympus Foreign Parts, a division of Guaranteed Parts. I know on the poly groove (not serpentine) 460s, a Taurus 3.8L alternator is a drop in and when Matt's 86 alternator went FUBAR I seen to recall that the one from the parts truck, a 1990 F250 with 460 fit just fine. On some applications the body halves may need "clocking" to get the hot stud where it won't touch anything. Wiring will need to be examined whatever you do, the crackhead system on the 2G alternator models defies belief as everything except the starter goes through the alternator harness. The fusible links are what usually fail and let the smoke out.

No FI Tech experience, have a 460 converted from carbureted to MAF/SEFI using all Ford parts. I can tune my EEC-V box with a Mongoose Pro Pass-through cable and Binary Editor. Since you have the early Ford EFI any improvement would help I am sure. I don't know on the FI tech units, but the Ford systems from 1987 up do use a speed sensor input and the trucks got MAF/SEFI systems on the 302 in 1994 so a junkyard could be a excellent source of parts. The EEC-IV system requires a piggyback tuner such as Moates or TwEECer to "adjust" the tune. The EEC-V can be direct flashed, but would require a bit more harness modifications starting with the EEC connector as it went from 60 pins to 104 pins.

So, headers listed for '87-'95 trucks will fit if you get an '87/ Y-pipe? Like these Speed Daddy 304SS ones on eBay? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382931848091 That's pretty inexpensive for stainless headers, delivered. ETA: I wouldn't consider using regular steel headers here in CT. Very hot light gauge tubes will disappear in a season thanks to the chlorides used in winter You all have pretty well described why I will not put headers on Darth. I had two cars with headers, one was a 1964 Falcon with a late production 260 (had 289 heads from the factory) it was a total PITA due to the cramped engine compartment, factory AC and still using a dynamo (generator). The other was my 1966 GT350, came from the factory with the Shelby tri-wye headers, I replaced them with a set of Headman large tube (1 5/8" primary, 3" collector) that were specified for 289 HP and 351W engines 1964 1/2 - 1970. They were a tad low due to the allowance for the higher location of the heads on the 351W, but fit perfectly, I got super proficient at replacing the exhaust gaskets, even kept a stack of Mr. Gasket asbestos ones on hand. Easy to change plugs, and on the Mustang chassis, the right side would come out from the top once the collector flange was unbolted. left side the clutch linkage got in the way. I do not want to be dealing with header gaskets on a 460 in a truck with factory AC, the right side is hard enough when changing plugs, left side, the EGR pipe would be a PITA, more so than it already is.

Gary, Matthew, I have Adblock Plus and have it disabled for this site due to problems viewing some things. Since this site is pretty well tightly controlled I do not get ads anyway. Try disabling your ad blocker on this site and see how it does. I use Google Chrome as my browser, have used Edge and Safari on my MacBook Pro. Edge worked well when there were some initial problems.

From what I remember, blue grommet was standard. If it only has two plugs, then it is the non-computer model, if 3 plugs and one is to a sensor, then you have a high altitude system, 3 plugs and one goes back into the harness and under the cab, look under the driver's seat for an EEC box. That will be a EEC-III and distributor is locked in place with no provision for adjustment and cap will be very strange looking.

The Taurus 3G alternator that is a nice match for the 460s has the pivot for the same size bolt the trucks use and the other end is tapped M8X1.25. The 160 amp I bought from someone on FTE who needed the money was already set up with a 3/8-16 thread on the adjustment end.

One of the more interesting things I discovered years ago, and was really PO'd when they put the national 55 mph speed limit in was that some engines do better at higher rpm. Two specific examples, first my 1966 Shelby GT350, at that point 289 with dual Holley 465 cfm 4 barrel carbs. at 55 mph car got 18 mpg average, at 70 mph it climbed to 22 mpg. Engine basically "came on the cam" and most of the mechanical only ignition advance was in at 3500 rpm in 4th for 70 mph at 55 it was turning 2750 rpm. Second was my 1963 Jetfire, the turbocharged F85, 215 ci, 215 HP (according to Oldsmobile) it had the Roto-Hydramatic model 5 and 3.31 gears with 15" tyres. I removed the spring from under the power enrichment piston in the Rochester RC one barrel side draft carburetor. At 55 mph it got 18-19 mpg, a friend borrowed it to drive to and from Richmond VA from Newport News for medical appointments, he came back and told me he was getting 23 mpg running 80 with it. At 70+ mph the boost gauge would be just under 0, maybe 1/2" of manifold vacuum, Garret turbo was doing most of the pumping and with the spring removed it stayed in the cruise mixture condition, but probably no vacuum advance, just mechanical.

You should have seen the tank on the 1967 Chevstang (67 Mustang base convertible with an LT1 swap) It had sat full from the time the owner finished it until October 2017, about 6 years. It was almost unusable. His son had me deliver it to a shop he thought could clean it, ended up having to go over to another shop. When I returned it running to him I had put 10 gals of ethanol free premium in it.

Holley used to sell some that were dead ringers for the Ford filters used on among others, the 427 FE. It was in 5/16" and 3/8" inverted flare styles. They may still be available.

FWIW, very good friend has a 1995 F350 2WD crew cab dually with the Powerstroke 7.3L, E4OD and 4.10 gear, he gets 14 mpg normally and it doesn't seem to vary much with weight, air drag yes. Darth is a 1986 similar truck but 460 converted to EFI (but still has the deep dish pistons) and E4OD with a 3.55 gear. Right now I get an average of around 11 mpg, but have been as high as 12.5 on a nice high speed (70 mph) drive to W VA to my son's. New engine going in is 9.3:1 compression and mild cam. I am hoping to get up around his fuel economy, as far as towing, I hauled a 10K 5th wheel trailer, original owner was a horse breeder and hauled some big trailers. Even with the very low compression, I can stomp the throttle from a standing start and spin all 4 rear wheels.

Yes, probably should on the accelerator pump diaphragm section: Early model 2100 carbs (pre-1964) had a long plunger on the pump diaphragm, and used a inlet check ball accessible through a special screw with a gasket under it. These also had a plastic filler block behind the diaphragm. On these carburetors the cone shaped spring goes small end in. All others go small end out. When the 2150 was introduced, Ford went back to a plunger, most kits for these contain the diaphragm without the extended "stem" and have a short piece of round bar stock to extend the plunger. On all 2100/2150 models the larger side center on the diaphragm goes out, small rivet head goes inside. Other note, this carburetor was in production for a long time with very few changes to the basic design, in my shop we stocked 3 different brands of kits and all of them covered from 1958 (1957 was different enough to have a unique kit) till we sold it in 1978. As long as you know what year it came off, then you can get the settings. A partial number is stamped on the outside of the front left mounting ear. If you can't find a number, pick a vehicle with a similar engine and tell the parts store that, trust me it will work. For those into performance, the left side of the bowl has a number cast into it, like 1.08, 1.14, or 1.33, these number represent the venturii size in inches, 1.33 was the biggest, and was used on 1970-71 429 engines, may have been on the 410 Mercury engines also.

Might be an idea, those of us who have been around for a while all know each others names in addition to our screen names.

If the Ford 9" is so weak as far as "grenading" why does every NASCAR team use one? A NASCAR "stock" car chassis is a real interesting collection of the best for their usage designs, front suspension is derived from the 1957-64 Ford, rear suspension is derived from the 60s Chevrolet pickup truck coil spring system with the long trailing arms and track bar. Rear axles are a full floating Ford 9" using (by now) an aftermarket nodular iron or even steel "pumpkin". Many drag racers use the Ford 9" center section as the straddle mount pinion design is very strong. Yes, wheel bearings and seals can be a PITA to do, I usually cut the old bearing down with my angle grinder along with the bearing retainer to get a bad bearing off. I never in all my years of having Ford cars and trucks had to replace an actual axle in a Ford 8" or 9" or even the late big car 9 3/8". The 8.8" style, great design, no inner wheel bearing race, just let the rollers ride on the axle surface, fairly easy to replace, and probably will need an axle at the same time. I personally hate the "no inner race" style axles whoever made them, I have seen to damn many with the "inner race" area so bad that only a new or nearly virgin used axle is needed. "Your mileage may vary :nabble_smiley_happy:"

Ray, unfortunately the Bullnose is the last Ford that had completely different firewall for heater only vs AC. If you have the dashboard fresh air vent system then you might have the proper opening. 1987 up, the basic system heater vs AC is the same, just the heater only box is smaller underhood.

Gee, yet another reason I am not a big fan of 4WD unless I really need it.

What really got me is the reversal of the terminals. Completely unnecessary in my opinion, but Ford felt differently I guess. People mention the differences between stuff like doors and dash mounting when using a Bricknose cab, but those things are only the tip of the iceberg. I love to challenge myself and this Bricknose to Bullnose swap is just the kind of challenge I like. But it takes a special kind of person to be willing to do this kind of work and it is definitely not for everybody. I don't know about yours, but the reversal of the terminals works fine for me, also I am able to use a group 65 battery in all my Fords. The Flex and Taurus came with them.