85lebaront2

You will need to clean it and I'm sure powder coat to match the plate.

Gary, on it's way. USPS tracking: 9505 5143 8162 9109 0743 53

Ok, a couple of items, first, does your truck have a mechanical fuel pump or the electric in-tank pumps? In either case, if the "socks" (fuel strainers) in the tanks are dirty they will restrict the flow of fuel. Do you know what gear you have in it? How heavy is the 5th wheel? I towed a 10K one with Darth and I will say acceleration in 3rd wasn't anything to brag about, never had a problem losing power even towing up 7 mountains grade in PA, was down in 2nd at 37 mph (FWIW, guy with a Chevy pulling an identical 5th wheel was down in 1st at 22 mph on the same grade). Do you still have the stock exhaust on, or has it been changed, the original was dual 2.5" pipes to the muffler, then what looks like 3" out and opens up to around 4" with two screens in the end. I would start with a fuel volume test, it should be a pretty good stream, I can't find the exact spec for it, pressure is 5-7 psi though.

Yes, it matches the one on Darth, which was for a C6 originally, and it matches the plate on the new engine, I looked at both. Cost, you can have it for the cost of shipping, a small flat rate box.

Wouldst this perchance be the droid, er part thou art seeking sire?

I wouldn't trust either shaft as far as I could throw them. Any strength it had is probably gone. Would find a good lawyer and make that shop replace everything with new, not used parts. Sounds like our favorite group of monkeys have relocated North from Florida to New York.

Gary, let me dig in my extra parts buckets tomorrow and see if I still have a loose cover like that.

Insert the proper die and extrude one. Dan Lee is trying to find the one he had with an extra block plate.

Yeah, so were 5.8Ls. That's why I said EFIs only. And the heat shields are only on the body - they're along (near) the R frame rail, but not on it. The only frame heat shields I'm aware of are on the Right radius arm bushing, and the '87-89 (gas) fuel reservoir. Yes, Darth has the underfloor, riveted on heat shields, real PITA with the aftermarket seats that were in there when I bought the truck. The original bed did not have any heat shields, but the forward tank had the "ambulance" chassis shield on the tank causing it to rust out where dirt collected. Since the exhaust cross pipe is 35" further away on a crew cab it got ditched when I replaced the tank. When I re-did the interior, I added extra heat insulation in the front footwells, rear footwell and a section over the underside heat shields. The front seat passenger no longer has the "hot foot" issue the truck always had. When I did my EFI conversion, the intermediate pipes had been replaced with a welded in section years before, I had the shop use a salvaged flange from a catalytic converter and connect the existing dual pipes to it, allowing a removable front down pipe set (still requires temporarily removing the transmission crossmember to get it off) which will be done when the new engine goes in.

I would imagine that some of us can use any documentation on the last 460s. E4OD/4R100, AOD/AODE/4R7xW, C6 could also be useful.

That's how all '87-96 EFI exhausts are built; other than the dual tailpipes on the bigger V8s (& the unique Lightning exhaust). https://supermotors.net/getfile/933303/thumbnail/exhaustefi.jpg Mine still haven't. So I don't doubt that a lot of mufflers in your area rust out, but it's not due to the heat shield (which keeps the muffler hotter, and therefore drier). All these trucks that I've seen have body heat shields along nearly the entire Right frame rail. Certainly all '82-96 Broncos are fully-shielded from the firewall-to-floorpan seam (11398), under the passenger seat (114A46), back to the gas tank (112B26): https://supermotors.net/getfile/1047800/thumbnail/bodysheetmetal.jpg First, 1987 460s were still carbureted as were the 351 HO engines in the F250/350 over 8500 GVWR. Here are the diagrams from Walker's catalog, they do not show the 168" wheelbase, bit the difference would be in the intermediate pipes (different lengths, used for wheel bases over 133") the 1990 is the parts truck I used, bed on Darth is a 1996 as 1985-86 dually beds are unique to those years and virtually impossible to find in any condition. Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the bottom side of the bed from when it was being prepped. The 1990 had a heat shield next to the mid-frame tank, that after fighting with trying to make it fit the 1986 frame I just left it off, I did retain the E4OD right side heat shield as even though I do not have a cat, the pipes still run right by that area. There were no other frame rail heat shields on either truck. 1985-7 exhaust system:

Steve and Gary, Darth's exhaust system is still essentially stock (original muffler and tailpipe) it is dual from the engine to the muffler with a cross pipe where the single O2 sensor on the 1990 parts truck was mounted (it now has my wideband there). This system (which originally had no cross pipe) was a mid 1984 through 1987 system. The 1990 was dual to the catalytic converter inlet (O2 sensor just forward) then a large single from the converter to the muffler and dual tailpipes. The only change I made before the EFI/E4OD change was to remove the screens from the end of the tailpipe at the recommendation of my local exhaust shop, I had asked about a lower restriction muffler and was told I would gain more from that then what he could sell me. the only issue I ever had was pulling the 5th wheel up the on ramp to the interstate before everything was fully warmed up, when I let off the throttle when the road leveled off, my wife reported she saw a rather large flame from the tailpipe which I heard as a loud boom from inside, the Thermactor system ignited the remaining mixture in the exhaust manifolds. He also told me when I drove down to him after doing the EFI conversion and E4OD, to remove the muffler heat shield as it would eventually rust the muffler from the outside. The 1996 bed has heat shields on the bottom as far back as the rear axle location.

The connector to the switch. Grumpin. I think I sent Gary the connector for the switch. Another way to do it though, use a choke heater switch from an 80s FWD Chrysler with the 2.2L engine, of GM used an oil pressure switch on their EFI engines. Either of these use 1/4" flat terminals and they are normally open, closed with pressure. Tunnel covers, I know all the crew cabs used a tall cover, even with an automatic transmission Darth's is the tall cover.

I haven't had a problem, but, I have never even tried this site on my phone. First it is a iPhone 5S which means a small screen (don't want a big wonky one as it won't fit in a breast pocket). I also don't generally use my iPad to browse.

Gary, I think you have the lever for the cable shifter on that transmission. The one that came out of Big Ugly (parts truck) had a lever that pointed down and had a grommet for the rod to snap into. Here is a top view and you can see the lever on the side pointing down.

Here is how I did mine, I cut a piece from an old Sears washing machine rear access panel. I then cut the firewall vertically up the inside of the left airbox so I could put the EEC as far to the left as possible. I laid out the EEC opening with it's cover and the two firewall side connectors (76 pin and 24 pin) so I had enough room between them. I then made a cardboard mockup and used it to mark the inside of the firewall. Before I started cutting I attached the 1992 up column, dash and parking brake support to locate the center of the intermediate steering shaft path. Once I had everything laid out, I took my Dewalt sawzall and cut out the old section. I used the cardboard mockup to transfer the hole locations to the larger replacement section, drilled a couple of starter holes to locate the piece, caulked the entire perimeter and used self drilling and tapping sheet metal screws.

I used the stock inlet duct from a 1995 or so I grabbed at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. I do not want a "hot air package" so will not use an underhood intake, mine goes through to behind the outer part of the grille and with the baffles Jim brought me, even in traffic I am fairly sure I do not get hot air pulled in.

The '87-96/7 F-series/Bronco EEC isn't in an area with lots of airflow, but it's not wrapped in plastic, either. It's almost touching the painted steel lower A-pillar, which conducts heat at least as fast as flowing air. A plastic box is a good thermal insulator, which I think would make the EEC substantially hotter than normal. The '94-96 MAF air filter box is significantly different from the '87-95 MAP filter box, even though they take the same filter and their mounting trays are very similar. But you can't mix the trays, lower boxes, or upper boxes. The MAP lower box mounts to its tray with 2 grommetted screws, and to the upper box with 4 more screws. The MAF lower box has 3 screws for the tray, and slots plus spring clips for the lid. https://supermotors.net/getfile/825935/thumbnail/airfilters.jpg At a glance, the lowers are almost indistinguishable. But if you notice the details, they're entirely incompatible. Steve, valid point with one exception, the rare CA only MAF 460 air filter mounts exactly the same as the MAP sensor version.

Gee, that sounds about right, I still haven't figured out how I had time to go to work.

Better upper and lower plenums, have you ever seen the 1996 454 Chevy intake manifolds, the runners circle about 1 1/2 turns to get the length to help the low end torque. The 460 lower plenum is really nothing more than an aluminum 180° 4 barrel manifold with injector bungs. It is quite obvious Ford was not planning on putting any money into the 460, instead everything was dumped into the mod motors. The new 7.3L engine is going back to a nice pushrod V8.

Sounds good sir, I mentioned the ballooning because it is a known issue with the E4OD converters. Looks real good in there, seems a shame to hide it under the floor, maybe a glass floor? Question, were those holes in the 4R100 case threaded or did you Tap them or use nuts?

Yes it is Gary. It is 54" X 8 ft all aluminum. It has a ramp also but it is folded back and is laying under the cab. It is surprising how much wind resistance the ramp causes when it's up, so I try to leave it flat as often as possible. This would be the new version of my trailer below: https://www.alumaklm.com/utility/single-axle/548-utility-trailer At 350 lbs it is significantly lighter than the steel trailers in the same size....but it also cost 50% more. The size is perfect for behind a small car...the 54" deck width makes the fenders visible in my mirrors, but that's about it. I had always had trucks, and I would much rather have a truck now, but this trailer gets me by in a pinch. I use the car for my work, and the MPG is very important. Of course my carrying capacity is limited, but it gets me by for now;). Those are great trailers, I have one that I bought several years ago.

I just wish there was a better system for the 460s.

Gary, looks great! I gather I was correct on the not needing an adapter if the correct flex plate is used. Only concern I see might be the lack of a solid piece around the TC center. The reason I say this, the converter clutch is applied by essentially reversing the oil flow in the converter, oil flow is normally in the outer portion at the back of the converter and returned through the input shaft. When the converter is in lockup, oil comes in the hollow shaft to the front of the converter forcing the converter clutch piston to the rear engaging the clutch. I would be concerned that the converter may "balloon" without a solid piece at the hub. I also gather that the 460 PMGR starter is going to work on it. FWIW, Darth's E4OD mount is 7" back from the C6.

Problem might be the MAF size, the 302/351 engines use an 80mm MAF, the 460s use a 90mm MAF, I ran the flow curves on three I have and an 80mm curve I found, the 80mm may max out on his 408 M block.