85lebaront2

Which guy, Larry, Moe or Curly? Or was it one of the others, Schayde Tri or Hamm Phist?

That will also have the updated seals and bearings (mid 1994 change). Good score!

Sterling has a spanner type socket needed, if it (a) weren't dark and (b) weren't cold and raining, I would get it and take a picture. The sterling uses ratcheting nuts on the hub bearings, but unless you have leaking seals or want to just check the bearings there is no need for it, drums "slide" off.

Easiest way to tell, first was the truck a cab and chassis or a complete vehicle? Second, have you tried removing the rear drums yet? If your rear drum and hub are a single assembly then you have a Dana rear, if the drums are removable without disassembling the hub, then you have the Ford/Sterling 10.25". This was introduced in 1985 on the pickups, cab and chassis models continued the Dana rear.

Gary, I think I have an extra pair I can send so you will have some more to play with and then maybe you can do exchanges for people who want them.

I even have an extra, don't remember if it is left or right. When I ordered them from Green Sales, they sent two of the same as one was mislabeled. When I called them, they sent a replacement and told me to keep the wrong one.

FWIW, Gary, remember when I was looking for the information on the front sway bar for Darth, who is late kingpin truck (1986) the brackets needed were stamped as in the drawing. The 1990 F250 parts truck had the cast ones that were part of the lower spring seat.

Gary, I can't completely help on the F150 TTB springs, but when I replaced the lower rubbers (some guy in OK sent some good used ones to me) and installed the anti-roll bar end brackets I do have a picture of the pieces when I had everything apart.

Gee, that sounds like the same grease Poly Bushings sent me for the Chrysler bushings, is it green? BTW, that "burn out the rubber" is exactly the procedure Johnny Spiva recommends for his suspension bushings and the "insert the sleeve after the bushings are in place" also is in his instructions.

I did not get anything except the normal Chrome "Not secure" but now with a red triangle containing an exclamation point.

Gary, I wouldn't know on them. The ones I installed on the rear of the konvertible retained the original Chrysler shell (also polyurethane) and were a PITA to get in even with the lubricant the manufacturer provides. I do have a bit left over from them and the ones I used on the front bumper.

Finished the vacuum/pressure harness today, rearranged the heater supply fitting (swapped it for the one from the 1985 car) and filled the cooling system. Then I warmed it up, set the timing and put everything underhood except the cruise control on. I need to get the correct battery so I can fit the cruise control on the battery tray. I need to find some thin walled hose for the radiator overflow and order a piece of 2.25" hose for the intercooler to throttle body section.

As far as the spin speed on the upgraded alternators, when I did Darth, I had already mounted the poly-groove belt system and once I did the EFI conversion, I eliminated the unneeded Thermactor pump (it only feeds the catalytic converter on the EFI 7.5L). I had an issue with the pulley that came with the conversion kit being so small the belt would slip on initial start up when the alternator was under a good load. I ended up getting a pulley off a Taurus 3.8L which is about the same OD as the V-belt one on the carbureted 7.5L, no more problems, it didn't actually squeal, just failed easily and left rubber dust all over the alternator. FWIW, Darth came with a whopping 60 amp 2G for a crew cab DRW truck with 7.5L, and loaded including the trailer package, go figure?

Well, considering that there was a galvanized washer on one of the intake hold down studs, that was my guess, that it got misplaced, and then powder coated. Looks nice though!

Yes it did, but there was a mystery included. A 3/8" flat washer, nicely powder coated, that I think may have been one of the four from the intake manifold hold downs.

Figured I ought to post this one, finally got a good used SBEC in hand and was able to actually fire the engine for the first time in nearly 10 years (1985 was totaled in Feb 2009). Ran pretty well, still have to finish sorting vacuum lines and then I can fill the cooling system and run it long enough to get it warmed up all the way.

But even better, there's a link to this writeup on Hemmings that has these specific comments re Fords: Bottom Line: Dexron/Mercon, with V being good and SP being better. But not LV. I will throw some more on this Type F is a petroleum based fluid with a friction additive. Dexron is a synthetic developed by GM for their transmissions and was designed to make the shifts smoother (read softer). A number of manufacturers used Dexron and Dexron II as OEM, Mercedes-Benz among them. FWIW, generally any older automatic (like and FMX or C4) that called for Type A can also use Type F with no problems except maybe a little crisper shift. I used to use Type F in the early Mercedes-Benz transmissions, the one called a "16 bolt pan" model (pan isn't as big as a C4 pan) as that one called for Type A as they were notoriously finicky due to no band adjustments, using reaction valves to help time upshifts and downshifts and would slip horribly if everything wasn't perfect, then they jerked almost as badly as the single coupling Hydra-Matics. A lot of the changes were due to (a) wanting to get away from Petroleum based fluid (b) trying to balance shift quality vs longevity © higher temperatures from catalytic converters and (d) higher temperatures on FWD vehicles.

That's why, in my first reply, I mentioned that a higher-than-factory alt counts as "additional load". It surprises me that anyone would try or even THINK that the old Bk/Or wire would be a good place to connect a 3G, if they saw the 3G's original output wire (presumably while removing the 3G at the JY). And as easy as it is to pull a 3G harness (1 starter relay nut & 1 easy connector on the LG/R wire), I really can't imagine any easier or more-obvious way to do the swap. That's a separate issue from the alternator wiring, and the wiring for additional loads. A voltmeter is neither a significant new load, nor a requirement for a 3G to work. But I recommended the voltmeter in my first reply. I'm not sure which approach, and which way to do it you mean there. The approach in your diagram above; the way in your diagram below; or were you still referring to my post? That's not correct. The factory ammeter wires are always hot. The voltmeter should be switched, as I described in my first reply. It's very easy to solder a new wire to the ICVR's brass button on the film circuit. Just be sure to put it on the INPUT side (steady 12V). For convenience, the voltmeter negative can go to the ICVR's mounting/grounding screw. I was asked to throw my $.02 into this discussion. Biggest issue I saw in doing mine, in addition to the pulley issue with V-belts. The shunt for the ammeter is a limiting factor as Steve points out. In order to get the voltage drop (which is what the "ammeter" is measuring) the shunt is sized to provide a good deflection at maximum load in either direction. I actually talked to an electrical engineer trying to come up with a decent solution, which basically boiled down to "if you increase the shunt size you loose sensitivity to smaller loads". This means a small discharge condition may no be immediately evident. That being said, his recommendation was to simply bypass the shunt and add a voltmeter to the truck. The voltmeter conversion, provided it is wired for key on only operation is a great modification, good enough that Ford did it staring in 1987. Ammeters were a valuable indicator in the days of 25-35 amp generators and were frequently always hot meaning the generator (or alternator on Chrysler products) was in series with the load and output. Power from the generator went through the ammeter then to the electrical loads so a discharge actually meant you were running on the battery as the generator output was too low, charge meant the generator was providing more current then what was needed for the loads and was charging the battery. Side note, my first truck, a 1958 F100, had a 25 amp Ford generator. It originally just had two idiot lights and a temperature and gas gauge. I scored an instrument cluster from an F600 in a junk yard with full gauges and installed it. Winter driving, after a week of in town, if I didn't get on the interstate and drive it a good ways, midway through the second week, it would get very slow to crank.

The computer does not have a problem with no cat(s) unless you have the OBD-II required post cat O2 sensor. I am running dual O2 sensors on Darth, one in each down pipe right below the manifolds. The post-cat O2 sensor is turned off in the software along with the misfire detector so they will not set a code. Darth has the late 1984-1987 dual exhaust pipes to the muffler then the single tailpipe over the axle and out. I am not running headers due to previous experience with them on two different cars.

3/8-24 is usually the size of the Thermactor tube fittings, if you want it clean, use Allen setscrews for plugs. 2 barrel, I would recommend a Clifford intake.

You may be correct Steve, but I have seen 5.8L engines that get the same or worse mileage that I get with the 7.5L.

It may have to do with the evaporative system, the 460s even the 1996 systems are different from the smaller engines. They are not a closed system even then, there are still two vent hoses at the tanks, one goes into the evaporative system, the other is open with just a hose with a vent cap.

If you look though the 1980-86 parts list does show a different cap for the 460, the E4 PN was obviously replaced with a different PN (E7UZ) in 1987. I don't remember exactly what the difference is, but I do remember trying to find locking caps for Darth and they were not available except possibly from Ford.

No, I bought it new in 2011 from Grainger if I remember correctly, got a good friend to buy it and he bought one also using his NASA discount.

Problem I have, I don't want to buy a reman one as I have to modify it to allow the calibration Eprom to be replaceable. My car has a 2.2L turbo II engine which uses a different spark curve, more boost and as a result different fuel map. The 1990/91 2.2L turbos were what is called VNT, for variable nozzle turbo (same concept as the ecoboost turbos) so a computer for those is looking for a pair of solenoids to operate the nozzle actuator. The other issue is sort of like Ford's EEC systems, EEC-III, EEC-IV and EEC-V are all different systems, EEC-III is a royal PITA to test, EEC-IV is straight forward, but to modify the programming requires and add-on board, EEC-V is OBD-II compliant and is reflashable through the OBD-II connector. Chrysler went through 4 different ECM styles between 1983 and 1992, a two part one with the "brain" inside the car and the "brawn" underhood, a single module that still incorporated two separate boards, again "brain" and "brawn" and finally the single module where everything was on one board, followed by an updated version in 1992, to accommodate the updated steering column with different cruise control function switches. The first two systems bank fire the 4 injectors, 1 - 2 and 3 - 4, the latter ones are sequential due to more stringent car emission regulations. Thanks for your efforts, I have one in unknown condition on the way for $40 + shipping, if it doesn't work, I can return it for a refund.