85lebaront2

I am going to add my experience with Chineseum parts. I will not buy any of these eBay specials. I made my living for a number of years first in my own shop and later working in a Dodge, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar, MG and Dodge Import dealership. I learned that OEM parts or at least OEM quality is more important than price. I had some aftermarket, no-name parts that were every bit as good as OEM. If you had walked in my shop and I didn't know you, you would get a fair price, a warranty on the work and if requested OEM parts, which I did stock in depth, if I knew you, you would get the OEM equivalent parts at a substantial saving. If you were just looking for parts same thing. Since I guaranteed the repairs I was not going to use something that would come back to bite me. Specific example, Ford 2100 2 barrel carburetors, we had to stock 3 different name brand kits due to the volume of work, Motorcraft CT499D, Carter 902-857D and Standard 77-857D. These sold at the time for around $7.50 retail, I also had the identical kits in a plain poly bag that I payed $2.00 each for. If I used one of these on a customers car, I would charge $7.50 for it, if you were a good customer and wanted one. $3.50 is what you would pay. There was absolutely no way I could or would use inferior quality parts. This is the reason for my comments, that and trying to find parts for many cheap aftermarket equipment with no support.

Do like Lucas did, put it in an external heat sink case.

Steve, very true. Here we have an "update" clause, that essentially lets you install a later engine, but it only needs to meet the requirements for the vehicle year. I have a 1996 MAF/SEFI on my 1986 F350. The F250 HD and the F350 were still non-catalyst through 1987. I have everything for the 1996 OBD-II system, except the misfire detector and third O2 sensor. No air pump, because on the EFI 7.5L all it did was deliver air to the center of the catalytic converter. I imagine that it is probably a cleaner running engine than the dual air pump system ever was. Since it is SEFI, there are two O2 sensors, one in each exhaust down pipe.

This & the NEXT dozen show the '94-96/7 dual visors: https://supermotors.net/getfile/775769/thumbnail/visors96.jpg Thanks, Steve that is probably better than just a picture.

Gary, you might as well keep the powder, I have no way to use it and if nothing else, consider it as at least a partial payment.

No, they look great, that was what we had decided on for them, don't want them too shiny as they are in sunlight with the top down. Valve cover is beautiful, at the rate the electronics are progressing I will probably be able to install it before I get the engine running.

Very much aware of the amount of sanding needed. I had two young bucks doing the intake plenum and valve cover. One is related to me, the other was his neighbor at the time in Virginia Beach. It looks great! I thought I had sent a semi-gloss for the convertible top hardware. You only really needed to do the best set of them, I guess I will keep the others for spares. Right now, if we have some decently temperate weather, I am trying to get all the remaining windshield sealer off the body so I can clean up any rust and paint the area. After that I have to stick the dash shell in and top cover and measure what I need to come up with to fill the difference in windshield contour between the 1986 windshield and 1989 dash.

You are welcome, I will try to get you a picture of the double visors with lighted vanity mirrors I installed in Darth.

I could recommend a good exorcist. Whining is probably the high pressure fuel pump, it is directly under the cab. Stiff locks, and problem with the ignition switch, probably get a replacement set of three, door lock and ignition lock. Snapping sound, and idle up and down may be related, 1985.5 and 1986 EFI systems are extremely sensitive to idle speed setting, it is a throttle position voltage issue most likely. The TPS voltage has to be at 1.0 V +/- .05 V, at roughly 1.1 V the EGR system starts to open, and the solenoid valves will chatter like magpies. Visors, any 1987 through 1997 set will work, and the cab inner roof area is pre-indented for the pin and screw of the later visors. Shift indicator cable may have to be a junkyard item. The indicator assembly comes out of the cluster.

I hope it works for him. Just don't ask me for help!

Did great sir, finest Chinese ignition systems! I personally would buy a junkyard DS-II system and plug it in.

Ok, first, you obviously have a feedback carburetor system. If you want to make changes it is all or nothing. Any changes you make to the ignition system can screw up the mixture control as it is and integrated system. The reason Jim can't find anything for your application, is these fine Chinese systems are made for non-computer controlled engines. As far as DS-II, all the wiring is already on your truck, 1985-86 models were built to be able to use multiple systems with minimal changes. If you look at the 1985 and 1986 EVTMs you will notice some strange wiring on the ignition systems. The TFI system does not need or use a ballast resistor, but the DS-II does. Ford built the front harness so whatever system was needed for the engine/weight class and emission requirements would be plug and play. A junkyard DS-II system for a 4.9L will drop in, but your still need to change the carburetor to get everything to play well together.

Gary, et al, FWIW, when the Prince of Darkness, Lord Joseph Lucas, decided to service a replacement for the OPUS system (oscillating Pick Up coil System) they released what was sold as Lucas Constant Energy system. It has what reminded me of the old Chrysler electronic ignition pickup coil with a 4 or 6 point reluctor and it was packaged with an aluminum box with a pair of connections on 90° away from each other sides. Inside the box (which served as a heat sink) was a 4 pin GM HEI module. Instructions were to mount it under the coil on MGs and discard the ballast resistor connecting the positive wire directly to the coil + terminal.

You are correct, the "Iron Duke" was Pontiac's resurrection of the Chevy II 153 ci 4 cyl engine, it was essentially 2/3 of a Chevy 230 ci 6 cyl. Chevy decided to "improve" it with a cross flow head and different carburetor, later TBI and stick it sideways in the base Citation (Ford should have kept that name registered). The "improved" engine suffered head cracks and in the early FWD models a distributor cap that was only accessible on a lift from below, this was followed by a number of sideways GM 4s with the ignition modules on the back lower portion of the block (and you thought Fords were a PITA to work on).

Works fine for me. Red tab, get a "circle" spinning followed by Excel online and the list comes up fairly quickly.

If it is a GM built engine, Chevy in particular, they use shims between the starter and block to adjust the gear mesh clearance. If it is a older Ford truck with an FE engine there are different flex plates and flywheels. Early FE engines (and Y-blocks) used what was called a folo-thru starter, a Bendix (inertia) drive that engaged from the back side so the ring gear (flex plate or flywheel) had teeth with a rear bevel rather than a front bevel. The other issue on Ford starters is automatic vs. manual, the ring gear depth in the bell housing is different, and if I remember the spacing correctly, a manual transmission starter will get the nose chewed up if used on an automatic transmission application.

Here is what the painted one looked like:

I thought you were asking about the top latch and guide pieces. They were the ones I ordered the silver in a satin finish for. Valve cover looks great! Once the ribs and letters are sanded and a clear coat put on it will look very nice on the Pontiac blue-green engine and clear coated aluminum head. The other bits look great too. I assume I will need a padded wrench for reassembly?

I don't know that I would want to, those are the convertible top latch areas, and with the top down are right in the sun. That was why I sent the satin finish powder, so they won't be shiny. If it won't make them too reflective it would be ok, but it's going to get worn off where the guide pin and hook fit.

As far as I know I am the oldest (72 working on 73) on here. Welcome wondered if you had stumbled onto this site before. Glad to see you here!

Engine is ready for them, it's just not ready to be inserted in Darth, that will be a warmer weather several day project. Part of which will be a frame degreasing while everything is accessible. Doghouse off so it will be wide open. Nice part, since I have the later harnesses, it will be easy to separate the front clip. Take the 76 pin firewall connector off, 104 pin EEC-V connector, unplug the A/C harness to front harness plugs. Put a strap on the hood and secure it back and up. Use one of the tractors to push the truck in, lift the old engine out, support the front of the E4OD, pull the truck out and wash everything down. Also be a good time to install the Saginaw pump. Probably give the frame a coat of paint after it is degreased. Once it is cleaned, new torque converter seal and probably a fluid change on the E4OD.

I could have sworn a 1986 was a Bullnose. The title and registration still say 1986. Those are going to look nice of the new engine!

If that's what you want it restricted to, it's fine. I just need some boundaries. Depends on your definition of "bolt-on". If you lift out the engine & wiring & fuel lines & tank(s) & exhaust, the newer stuff pretty much bolts in. That's how I originally put EFI on my '83. But wires WERE cut! (Not as many as you might think, though.) So bolt-in Ford chairs only - gotcha. What about welding on the replacement part? Disqualifier? I'm just starting my rear disk project, by swapping the complete rear axle. But I have to cut the disk axle's spring perches & shock mounts off to weld on the ones that fit our trucks. Then it'll bolt in. But I haven't nailed down the e-brake cables yet. So no wiring changes at all? Or just no cutting? Adding a new wire/fuse/harness section - OK or not? The 3G & voltmeter swaps CAN be done without cutting, but it's much easier to wire the voltmeter if the film circuit on the back of the cluster is cut instead of just folded out of the way or taped off. But I think I'm getting the idea of what you're after... I tend to think in terms of "improvements/upgrades/modernization", regardless of how invasive they might be. I'll try to shift my focus back to "parts interchange"... How are these? - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Inside W/S Trim: early upper clips are replaced by later screws (which self-drill into the hidden sheet metal) and '92-up is notched for RV mirror wiring; early metal upper door trim is integrated into later plastic A-pillar trim (also with later screws). - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Front Door Shell: '80-82 lack a hole for the sill button; '92-up have an extra hole for the mirror support (hidden by all RPO mirrors); '94-up have a larger hole for the wiring boot; '95-up have a side-impact beam (indicated by an extra subtle body line near the bottom); '96-up have a larger lock cylinder hole (requiring the later cylinder, or a plastic spacer). - '84-91 F-series/Bronco Brake/Clutch Pedal Box Assembly: hydraulic linkage does not fit '80-83 without drilling the firewall, changing the cruise cancel switch connector, and plugging the pushrod hole. - '85-95 F-series/Bronco MAP Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-95 F-series/Bronco ACT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR gasoline) F-series/Bronco ECT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Temperature Sender (Gauge): interchangeable from virtually all Ford/L/M products of the era. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Taillight Assembly: '80-86 grooved w/small reverse lens; '87-91 smooth with wraparound reverse lens; '92-96 smooth w/small reverse lens. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Pedal Assembly (w/front cable section): fits all wheelbases. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Tension Limiter/Equalizer: fits all wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco E-Brake Cables (axle sections): all axles/wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco Wheels, Hub Caps, Center Caps, & Lug Nuts: all RPO 1/2-ton wheels are 15" with 5-on-5.5" lug circle and cone-seat 1/2-20 lug nuts 13/16" drive. I'm not 100% sure on the ACT & ECT connector shapes, though the sensors themselves screw in. And I could be wrong about the F250-350 tension limiter being interchangeable. But I think the others are correct. On the EFI, six cylinder and Windsor V8s it would be fairly easy, 1985.5 and 1986 trucks have an oval hole in the firewall for the EFI harness to pass through since the early system was essentially designed as a "drop-on" and the front harness was made in such a way that the DS-II or EFI for the 5.0L could be connected and either would get the proper ignition system voltage. The ground connection on these was a problem, it sits right next to the battery and is actually attached to the clamp bolt on the negative post. Air filter sits on top of the left valve cover. To use a later computer several circuits need to be changed and, if there is no speed control a speed sensor is needed. Either a 5.0L or 5.8L could be easily set up this way. Older trucks equipped with the EEC-III system, the EEC is under the driver's seat and that location could be used. 4.9L and 7.5L, 4.9L computer could be installed where the 1985.5/1986 5.0L was or if the truck had the FBC, it may already have an EEC there. 7.5L, you probably could use the 5.0L location and modify a 5.0L EFI harness. The injectors on the 7.5L are angled in and the harness runs inside and above rather than in channels on the valve covers as the 5.0L and 5.8L do. Air filters, since Ford relocated the air filter for all EFI engines starting in 1987 and the first 4.9L EFI motors came out that year, this would necessitate adapting the later air filter mount to the driver's side fender, however, the coolant tank and windshield washer reservoir are in the way. 7.5L same problem. Good thing, since the 5.0L EFI air inlet was on the left side of the radiator, the air duct for the later air filter will slide right in.

That's what everyone THINKS, but it's really not that bad if you make careful choices about WHERE to make the transition from old to new wire. That discussion is probably best left to another thread (do you have a project/build thread for it?), but suffice it to say: the more new wiring you use, the easier the job becomes. It took a while for that to sink in, but I'm with you now. I'd make sure to mention the change in body lines at the wheel arches in '87, and the change to the t/g latches/supports/hinges in '90. Didn't the bed bolts also change at some point, which changed their holes in the bed's structure? Common square-boss carriage bolts at first, becoming oval-boss by the mid 90s? https://supermotors.net/getfile/853035/thumbnail/44bedbolt.jpg Steve, I don't know exactly when the bed bolt change was, but when I put the 1996 bed on Darth the 4 end bolts were the oval shank and had larger heads than the center square-boss carriage bolts. Thread was the same on all 6 bolts though.

Bed swap, the 1985/86 DRW bed is different from the 1980-1984 bed due to the axle change, Try to find a good 1985/86 DRW bed and fenders. Maybe in the SW you could find a bed, but I wouldn't bet on the fenders being any good after 30+ years in the sun. The 1987/97 DRW bed is a drop on, with a couple of issues. Tailgate is different, tail light openings are a slightly different shape. Wiring is completely different connectors Ford was moving from open wedgelock and the molded "pull apart" connectors to smaller weatherproof connectors. Since the DRW trucks have marker lights in the fenders and frequently a set of three under the tailgate (depends on local laws where the truck was sold) the bed harness for the tail lights and marker lights changed. The older ones will fit, but even the marker light pigtails are different. The bed body line differences are not as noticeable on a DRW truck as very little of the actual side panel is visible. Fenders will swap between the two beds so if you have good fenders, they can be reused. For anyone planning on a bed swap on a styleside of any configuration, I highly recommend getting the proper end bolts from Ford, they have a strange flattened center that goes into a square tube through the bed floor and cross beams, the center bolts are a regular carriage bolt. Maybe by now the aftermarket suppliers have the end bolts, when I did Darth's bed I ordered a set that was supposedly correct, wrong! The six bolts were all carriage bolts and the end ones were a sloppy loose fit in the holes and with the prevailing torque nuts, impossible to tighten.