85lebaront2

Sounds great! The hot fuel package can be a nightmare the first time you have to deal with it. Working properly it is great. One suggestion from someone who has dealt with it's idiosyncrasies, you might want to add a "priming button" that will put 12V to the wire on the starter relay if the truck isn't going to be driven frequently. I found if mine sat for a week or more without being started it took a bit of cranking to fill the carburetor to the point it would run.

Just for S&G I tried looking up Darth's original and it should be under 80/86 F350 2WD, 7.5L C6 168" WB, ok found that then there are notes that don't exist. Interesting, very interesting as used to be said on Laugh-in.

Yes, there is a two bolt "inspection" plate on Darth, that's how you access the torque converter nuts, E4OD converter drain is on the outer diameter of the converter and is accessed through the round hole with plastic plug on the bottom of the converter housing.

Biggest issue you will run into is the actual mounting points and VIN location for the dash. 1980-1986 dash boards are essentially "built up" from an assortment of metal and plastic parts. They attach to the cowl at the windshield base at 4 horizontal mounting tabs (Gary might have or be able to get pictures of them) there are two end mounts and over the steering column, VIN location was moved outboard about 1" starting in 1987 (try to find a correct 1980-1986 windshield). Parking brake pedals are different, but will interchange at the front as the location and firewall holes are the same. Wiring changed completely in 1987 and again in 1992. 1987-91 the dash harness and front harness join at a large round plug on the driver's side, 1980-1986, the dash and front harness are one assembly that goes from one headlight to the other by way of the dashboard. Brake pedal and column mount are different, but mount the same.

Prayers for Janey, hope everything goes well.

SEM vinyl dye, same thing I used on Darth's dash. I installed the upper portion as it is a royal PITA and it is easily scraped installing it. The A/C vents snap in from the front side and the housings for the three (left end and two right hand) are awaiting their second coat. The one next to the cluster location is in the woodgrain fascia.

Got the dash in yesterday and today I started dying it to the maroon or burgundy color to match the rest of the interior. This only the top portion, the lower sections I am doing separately since they have to be installed after the upper and steering column are in. You can see the amplifier location (ribbed black box) where it will be under the passenger seat.

Gary, looks pretty good, and the FTE links seem to work.

Stock carburetor would have been a Holley model 4180, 600 cfm, so your Carter AFB is a good match for size.

There are no check valves that I ever found on mine. The valve piping sounds correct from what I remember on mine, I seem to recall the rear tank went straight in to the valve and the front went in the top with the lines to the engine coming off the front. What you might want to do is take the valve loose, I know it's not fun and make sure it is moving to both positions and connecting the ports properly. It is the correct 6 port motor operated valve I hope, if it is a "universal" aftermarket one it is going to give you problems as it will not switch the gauge senders. Be glad yours is an 84, the 86 system Ford did away with the tank selector relay and everything is done in the valve and switch. As a result the valve won't move unless you are cranking the engine or it is running.

Should I pull one off Darth for measurements, or do your parts lists show if it is the same or different for the dually fenders?

First question, do you know how to read a wiring diagram? Not trying to be nasty, some people do not know how to read them. On the pressure regulator, Gary put his just before the carburetor. Now to the other question, you said the new pump is a lot louder than the old one, are you sure it is the correct pump? A lot of places will try to sell you the mid 1985 through 1989 low pressure EFI pump which is way too high for a carbureted engine (ask Gary Lewis and I how we know). They are much noisier as they are gearotor pumps and the originals are centrifugal pumps. The fact that you had fuel from the front tank, switched and nothing from the rear, then when you went back to the front, still nothing makes me suspect the selector valve isn't moving, it doesn't release the fuel, just connects the desired tank to the engine fuel lines. When you rerouted them, you didn't get them crossed did you? The larger line is supply, smaller is return, the valve has 6 ports two for each set of lines. The selector valve on yours should be like mine was and have 5 wires going to it. On front tank the brown with white wire should have power in run, in rear tank the orange wire should have power in run. The remaining 3 wires are the fuel gauge wires, yellow with white to the gauge, yellow with light blue hash, rear tank sender, dark blue with yellow, front tank sender. On the switch mentioned, it is on the back of the engine, on a hex shaped fitting with the oil gauge sender (large dome with a single stud). It is a smaller switch with a molded shell that a two lead wire goes into. Here is a picture showing where the wiring runs, switch is visible as the black item where the red line goes on the back of the engine.

Having lived with one of these for quite a while (1986 F350) I am pretty conversant with the system. The Hot Fuel Option Package T valve with blue dot. Mine had a 6 port motor operated valve that controlled both the supply and return lines, the pumps in these are extremely low pressure, spec calls for 5-7 psi so the two filters may be too much restriction. Can you hear or feel the selector valve switching? I just figured out what you are calling the T valve, it is the vapor separator and has an orifice where the 1/4" line attaches. Other question, can you hear the pumps run? they make a not super loud whine, like a fan motor only muffled because they are submerged in the tanks. Fuse #18 is the pumps through the tank selector relay, fuse #15 is the tank selector valve control. Here are the diagrams, if they aren't easy enough to read I can email them to you.

Interesting, the 302/351 may have the interference, but the 460 does not, probably because the 460 still uses an adjustable alternator to tension the right side polygroove belt.

That was my point Gary, that my original tilt wheel column and the one from the parts truck were virtually identical except for the mounting brackets, switch and wheel. What I am using in Darth is the 1992 up column which also has the universal joint on the column to intermediate shaft (which is where to collapsible portion is) and the caged poly joint at the steering box. Item for you, when you looked at the later parts list, it showed the E2 PN for the Pittman arm, you had to go back to the older parts list to find the E0 PN which tells me Ford updated it just like the steering box. I suspect that just like the slide vs pin locks, assembly plants were told to use up existing stock until they were gone rather than stop production and pull all the older parts off the line. This would be the norm unless a safety recall was involved.

No, I used a small dab of grease on the underside of the screw heads as recommended and, of course, tightened them by hand.

Gary, from what I remember, there is not a lot of difference at least between 1986 and 1990 in the steering column or shaft. The differences were the mount to the dash and the ignition switch.

Got the top hold down brackets on today, went to Ace and bought 4 #10-32 X 3/4 oval head Phillips CRES screws and # 8 oval head Phillips CRES sheet metal screws.

No RCA cables. all speaker wires, radio to amplifier and amplifier to the 6 speakers are all twisted pairs.

I'm not disputing that the Snap-on puller is the better puller, but I got the job done with this combo this morning. However, I did have to change to a bigger air hose and a connection closer to the compressor to get enough torque to do it. And, I wore gloves and safety glasses as I really expected that puller to explode. It didn't and the arm finally came off. I have both the snap-on and KD style, either seems to work. Sometimes the big one will not work in place.

I am working on the dash right now, due to a change in the audio system, I had to redo the speaker wiring. New system is a 2001 Sebring convertible Infinity 6 channel amplifier and a 2001 300M head unit (AM/FM/CD/Cassette). The amp goes under the passenger seat and the wire bundle was too big to fit under the sill plates, so I had to run it up the center under the reinforcement. This means the power, turn on signal, ground and top down equalizer signal along with 4 channels in, 4 out have to be run there, the other two go alongside the top wiring harness out the back end of the reinforcement. I used two Ford 10 way male/female plug sets as finding Chrysler ones is difficult and unless new, the male/female parts have to be salvaged.

It's a list I created by browsing Amazon & looking for McGard lug nuts that would fit Broncos (& F150s), so it applies to "Dad's truck". But you could use the info in the image to identify those that fit the bigger trucks, and look for Darth's. I looked, the biggest they list are 7/8", mine are 1 1/6" (or 27 mm).

This caption contains many links to McGard brand lug nuts: https://supermotors.net/getfile/487374/thumbnail/tsb985a4lugtorque.jpg I assume they were the OEM for our trucks' lug nuts because I know they were the OEM for the locking lug nut used on late-model Bronco swingaways. https://supermotors.net/getfile/544845/thumbnail/luglock.jpg I found an open box of nearly 100 on eBay, so I've been throwing out my beat-up originals. Interesting information, I notice the strange floating washer lugs on the older DRW models are not listed. Wheel locks, my 1994 Taurus has the factory aluminum wheels and came with a set of locking lugs, key is attached to the wrench handle. I am sure they are original as the car was a "program" car, meaning it was a leased car for it's first year. I am only the second owner and bought it in 2009 from my former boss for $750.

*Exactly* :) The other item I noticed is that frequently the 49 state will end in 0, and many California have 10 as the ending number.

FYI, Dexron II is synthetic.