85lebaront2

Correction, there are limited slips and LIMITED slips (to use your form of differentiation, pun intended). Neither the Ford Traction Lock nor the TrueTrac are lockers at all, they are both limited slip diffs, albeit completely different from each other. The Traction Lock puts friction between the two sides so it functions like a spool until it exceeds the slip torque of the clutches. Then it acts like an open diff, but with a fixed amount of drag between the two sides. A TrueTrac uses worm gears to send 3.5x (or 2.5x in front axle applications) as much torque to the tire that gets more traction. So if it takes 200 lb-ft of torque to spin the tire that gets the least traction it will send up to 700 lb-ft (or 500 lb-ft for a front application) to the other tire. Or if it takes 0 lb-ft to spin the tire with the least traction it will send 0 lb-ft to the other tire. In most situations a TrueTrac is much more effective than a typical Traction Lock (or any other clutch-type limited slip), but they are actually less effective when one tire gets no traction (like if it's in the air, or on ice). But it never locks. Automatic lockers are things like Detroit, Grizzly, LockRight, Spartan, Aussie, etc. They actually do lock up and are what can be a nightmare on a snowy highway. TrueTracs and typical (i.e. fairly loose) Traction Locks should be less dangerous than an auto locker in a front axle. But of the three, a TrueTrac is the only one I'd ever even consider using in the front axle of a truck that would be driven on snowy highways. But a selectable locker would probably be a better choice, at least in my opinion. Having had (a) a vehicle that came factory with a Detroit Locker (1966 GT350) and (b) a pretty powerful FWD car (1985 Chrysler Lebaron convertible with a roughly 200 HP turbocharged 2.2L engine) I am familiar with the locker's behavior on snow and ice (Shelby was my daily driver for a number of years) and torque steer even though the Chrysler had the equal length axles. I can appreciate the concern in both cases.

Jim. the problem with the optispark was it's location, directly behind the water pump where a small seal leak would soak the electronics. Solution was to enlarge the seal drain line to 1/4" tube to get the coolant away from it. GM also changed the vent system to get the unit purged. I spent a portion of 2017 working on an LT1 engine stuffed into a 1967 Mustang convertible for a friend (the guy who owns the yard your Saginaw came from).

Gary, Jim did a Saginaw conversion on his truck a number of years ago. Donor vehicle was an older van with the V-belt 460. His hardest part was finding the correct pressure hose. I hooked him up on the pump and brackets from Pete's used parts in Newport News VA.

Works great on Chrysler suspension bushings and on my homemade bumper mount repair.

That is the way Lucas did their "constant energy" ignition, GM 4 pin HEI module in an aluminum heat sink that mounted between the coil bracket and fender on an MG, on the Jag 6s it was on the front of the intake manifold as the coil sat on the front of the head.

1989 is when the F-super duty came out, had a friend with a roll back wrecker, 6.9L Diesel that seriously needed a couple of cans of compression in it. It was a live axle 2WD.

That was what I noticed, Darth does not have front leaf springs, rear yes, front has big coils.

Did you ever check the crossmember information? You guys can keep your storms out there, past two Fridays have had severe storm warnings, this weekend it moved to Saturday.

An Edsel Ranger, what engine? From what I remember the Ranger and Pacer came with the same engines as the Fords, and the Corsair and Citation came with an Edsel specific 410 ci engine.

Took off the leaking water pump, take it up to AutoZone tomorrow for a new one.

Gary, just one more thing (Columbo), does the list show a different one for a 2WD crew cab F350, no 1986 DRW crew cab came 4WD, so no leaf springs in front.

You can keep your tornadoes out there with Dorothy

Shame of it is, the one in the "huck" was probably the same piece, or at least close enough. Since it is raining out there, maybe you can go through the parts fiches and see if there is a PN for the cross member, and if the 2WD and 4WD are different. With that information you should be able to find one , maybe from a total hit in the rear so the front isn't damaged.

The sad thing about the TTB, the F150 version with coil springs is very popular in the off road racing world due to it's ability to take extreme amounts of travel with no problems. Had Ford simply used the F250/350 2WD style suspension on the 4WD models they would probably have worked as well as the F150s did and ride a whole lot better.

Will pictures from a 2WD F350 help? I probably have some and can get more tomorrow. It looks like the crossmember was cut to get access to the mount to adapter bolts which normally are not remotely accessible with the mounts bolted to the perches.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=E5TZ-9189-B&_sacat=6030&_sop=15 They're proud of those aren't they? Glad I no longer have one on Darth.

Belt squeal on these can be the alternator belt, it can be a real pain to get tight enough. I agree with checking for problems in the various belt driven items, if it is anything like mine used to be there is a real rat's nest of belts on the front of the engine, any one or two (water pump/power steering pump) can squeal on a cold start. White smoke can come from a number of places, automatic transmission modulator bed (not likely since yous is a manual), brake booster (leaking master cylinder), coolant leak at the manifold front or rear into the adjacent intake port (1,4,5,8). Head gasket leaks are not common on these as Ford's gaskets are composition unlike some others who use stamped steel, head cracks are also not common on these either. Cylinder leakdown testing is one of the best ways to find issues with rings, head gaskets or valves. FWIW, a bad head gasket will almost always push coolant out of the radiator as the leakage has to go somewhere and with a closed thermostat it pushes coolant out of the heads and intake resulting in a huge air bubble in the upper part of the engine.

All of the rear end of the truck actually grounds inside the cab at G701 which is under the dash RH side near radio. It goes through two connectors to get there (this is from the 1986 EVTM which is on this site) C126 is the one at the LH rear of the frame and is single wire brown connector, the larger 4 pin is C1002 and provides the power to the lights C127 is underhood on the driver's side of the firewall. I swore years ago that the engineers who did the wiring on these trucks were on some serious hallucinogens when they designed it. If you can't find the mating piece for C126, you can try grounding that wire to the frame. Good luck with it!

Jim, the changes were in the power source for the selector valve, through 1985 it was fed with 12V from one of the fuses, starting in 1986 it is fed from the pump feed circuit, meaning battery feed through the small fusible link when cranking and through the pump feed once running. This means the valve will not change position with the dash switch unless you are cranking the engine or the truck is running. Real fun if one tank runs out and the engine cuts off, because at this point if you don't still have some oil pressure, it will not switch until you turn the key to "start".

The selector valve you have is peculiar to the 1986 models if I remember correctly. It has the 6 ports, 3 supply and 3 return, and is motor operated, but also includes the switch for the fuel gauge senders: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tank-selector--gauges1.html Unless one of the ones you are looking at is an exact replacement for the original see if any of the ones you are looking at gives a Ford PN, it should be an E with a number, probably will be a 4 (possibly) 5 or 6 indicating the year of release. Gary's part number list shows it as E5TZ-9189-B, there is also an E3TZ-9189-C, but it is listed as 1983-1985 models, so the 1986 is unique to 1986 models. Unfortunately the one I pulled off Darth when I went to EFI is long gone to someone on FTE.

I know the crew cabs have a tall tunnel, the E4OD sits down a ways under the floor. Here are some pictures of the E4OD from underneath and through the removed tunnel cover.

You will need to get a new R134a compatible accumulator (large can on underhood A/C casing) possibly a new orifice tube and new oil to replace the mineral oil in the compressor and rest of the system. Be sure you get the correct oil for the conversion, the normal R134a oil will not mix with the mineral oil and can make a huge mess of the system. Properly done, it will cool very well, I ran my crew cab with a converted system for a number of years and it cooled quite well unless it sat and heat soaked after stopping, then it took a bit to get cold again, but it did that before being converted so it was more of a design issue than a conversion issue.

Great! I will expect pictures of it's metamorphosis to match the plate.

Ray, from the distributor and lake of a mixture solenoid on the carburetor, your truck did not have the computer controlled system. You could have kept the DS-II system instead of going to a damn Chevy distributor. One thing I will tell you from personal experience on an older Chevy truck, you will want to add a relay to provide the needed 12V high current feed to the HEI distributor. If the 1982 ignition feed wiring has a way to bypass the resistance wire easily then you might be ok there. The 1985.5 through 1987 trucks had the capability to have a 12V feed to the TFI ignition or a resisted feed for the DS-II as both systems were used depending on the engine installed.

Ok, I haven't been through all this with a Ford 6.9L or the 7.3L with injection pump, have done a number of GM 5.7L and 6.5L all of which use the Rossamaster injection pump. The luminosity method uses a transparent dummy glow plug in #1 cylinder, and the reason it is an ATDC setting is it is looking at the flame in the prechamber. I went round and round with the Oldsmobile dealer after I bought a new 1978 Delta 88 Royale Diesel, smoked like a chimney and got about 10 mpg in town, 14 highway (worse than my 302 Torino wagon). I got ahold of a Rossamaster service manual and found where their internal TDC mark was, wedged the ring in that position and loaded the drive gears against the direction of rotation then put a punch mark where the reference line on the pump sat. Car ran great, 20-22 mpg in town 30 highway, light gray smoke under load, normal Diesel "clatter". About a month later the service manager at the dealer called and said they had a service bulletin from GM regarding improperly marked pump adapters and to bring the car in. When he performed the procedure, he said that my punch mark was dead on the correct location. On the side of the Rossamaster pumps, there is a small cover, either oval or possibly similar to a house silhouette, under this cover you will find the TDC marks for #1 cylinder, with the crank a bit before TDC, slowly turn it to TDC, if you are on #1 the scribed lines should match, if only one is visible, go around one more time on the crank. My Alldata mentions that IHC and Ford set the timing differently, however, there is shown the same alignment marks that GM used, just remember, the pump rotates the same direction as the crank since IHC used gears for the cam drive.