85lebaront2

If the phenolic spacer isn't warped, then yes, but it will still need a pair of gaskets, one under and one over. They need to be reasonably hard so they won't compress too much. The spacer may have some uneven areas as the VV base is different that the Holley base.

Jim, Shaun, the vacuum passages in the throttle body may be coming outside the strange intake mounting area. This may result in the carburetor not sealing properly. The other item, the mounting gasket does not appear to have the hard reinforcements around the mounting holes. My suggestion would be to find an aluminum adapter like was used to mount a Holley pattern carburetor on a GM or Chrysler manifold, or vice versa. Use it and two thinner gaskets, if the adapter has one side solid and one with it fairly open, put the solid side down.

Then I was wrong - it's NOT substantially more than the PMGR. Did you read that last caption? It lists the PMGR current as 140~200A. That's from the Ford service manual. Looks exactly like my 5.8Ls. There are a few more inches between the starter & manifold on my 4.9Ls, but their exhaust wraps about 270° around the starter, and both pipes (for 6 cylinders' worth of heat) pass immediately below the starter. So I imagine they get to about the same temperature on long drives as your 460's starter. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1013718/thumbnail/45starter.jpg It shows what I said: the ig.sw. powers the relay, which triggers the solenoid, which turns on the starter motor. Right? The starter relay on the PMGR only operates the solenoid, not the entire starter. It shows what I said: the ig.sw. powers the relay, which triggers the solenoid, which turns on the starter motor. Right? But your picture showed no relay, only car I saw like that was dad's 1971 MarkIII with the Delco starter on the 460.

Pictures as requested. First, battery and cables looking toward the right fender:

Probably, because the rear cable is the "trigger" wire for the solenoid.

Somewhere between 1992 and 1995. If you notice the battery sits opposite the older models, the positive cable used to be near the fender with the negative going first to the frame, then to the front of the engine block. The later system has the cables swapped moving the positive back and in and the negative goes back to the lower starter bolt which is now a double ended one with a nut. They also started running a negative pigtail to the inner fender area. Let me get a more recent picture of the starter relay/battery setup.

It's only ~50A (~25%) higher than PMGR, assuming both starters, the engines, & the cranking systems (including battery terminals) are working right. I'm still using the old-style starter on my Bronco, and it works fine. Designed, but not very well; the originals were still susceptible to the same failure. https://supermotors.net/getfile/870435/thumbnail/relayside.jpg Modern Copper (even from china) is superior. It's the old relay's DESIGN that causes those failures. The newer relay's design is superior. https://supermotors.net/getfile/829914/thumbnail/starterelaylate.jpg The '92-96 system (first Fs with PMGR) used the new ignition switch to directly-power the starter relay, which only triggered the PMGR solenoid, as that diagram I posted before shows. This shows more of the circuit: https://supermotors.net/getfile/285644/thumbnail/starterexploded.jpg Gee, Steve, maybe on a six cylinder that might be correct, but on a hot 460 (first starter is right under the right exhaust manifold, and almost into the frame) I had a parts store measure my old movable pole piece starter at nearly 200 amps breakaway current, it dropped noticeably once the engine started turning. Note the starter solenoid, manifold for this side is a rear outlet and drops below the ports.

The big problem with the original starter is it's extremely high current draw, I don't remember exactly how high but it's way up there. The original Ford relays on the fender were designed to handle the current draw without much problem, where the problem today lies is that most sources are now getting the relays made in China. The copper alloy the Chinese ones use is apparently very soft, and after a few times of making and breaking the connection, they are extremely prone to welding the contacts together resulting in the starter continuing to run even after the key is released. If you have a truck with the DS-II system, turning the key off when this happens will not kill the engine, the resistor bypass circuits (until 1985 and maybe after) will continue to power the ignition. The solenoid shift starter whether PMGR or the older Delco style that was on the car 429/460 engines in the late 60s and 70s, still can draw a ton of current if you jumper the positive stud on the solenoid to the S terminal. This is how the lower line cars (Ford, Mercury) were usually wired. The Lincoln Mark III had a different system, and was wired more like a GM car (Start wire from switch to neutral safety to S terminal on starter). Most Ford ignition switches and associated wiring can't handle the current draw of the solenoid and will burn up. A standard Bosch relay can handle the PMGR solenoid with no problem, that is what most later Fords that were factory built with a PMGR starter use underhood for the starter.

I keep hearing people talk about Powermaster starters, if it quits on the road, where do you find a replacement? When my original PMGR starter bought in 2003 finally decided it was done this year (16 years) I was able to go about 1 1/2 miles away to our local alternator, starter and battery supply house here in town and pick up a new one, exactly like the one I took off, even had the same Precision label on the box.

Do you have king pins or ball joints? Ball joints can be aligned using offset bushings, king pins require the axle to be bent to adjust and very few places even when these trucks were new could do this, toe-in is easy on either system. FWIW, Darth was last given a full alignment in 1994, not long after I bought him, current front tires have been on since Dec 2014 and (a) still have plenty of tread left and (b) are worn perfectly even across the tread.

Since you have a Windsor engine and automatic, you can get a starter for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car, it is the 302 engine but the starter is a PMGR style and is smaller, draws less current and the one on my 460 wil crank it hot with no problems. It does require a wiring change and as an added benefit does not weld the "high quality" Chineseum starter relay together.

Here's what was on Darth when I bought him in 1994, unfortunately (a) I don't know who made it and (b) it is long gone. It actually didn't look too bad.

Jim, 84 should be a Dana, Sterlings didn't start until 85.

No problem Jim, that is what this site is about, knowledge sharing.

You're within your rights to be confused. My two piece rear shaft has a master spline on the slip yoke so it will only go one way.

No, I am retarded, er retired. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.

Ray, item for you, I was told years ago to use big hose clamps (actually read it in Popular Science in a monthly series called "Model Garage"). I did that on my 1977 F150 after changing it from a 300 with a C4 (not one of Ford's better ideas) to a 390 and C6. I had to shorten the shaft and change the yoke. The method I used was to jack up the rear axle and place it on jack stands. Have someone run the truck up to the worst vibration, in mine about 45 mph. Using a crayon or chalk CAREFULLY hold it up to where it just touches the drive shaft at it's lowest "swing". Using that reference, install two big hose clamps with the screws opposite the heavy side. Recheck, if the heavy side is now at the clamp screws, move the screws in opposite directions a short distance apart, repeat until the vibration is gone. On my 1977 it ended up needing 3 clamps all lined up the same way.

Looking at you column pictures (sorry I hadn't looked earlier) the broken piece is where the original column shift lever mounted. Your truck was the "3 on the tree" setup. The floor shift was installed after the original column shifter either broke or got so sloppy it couldn't be driven.

I agree completely with Jim. C6 transmissions will make a huge mess. One thought, if you are in an area where boating is popular, see if you can borrow an oil change pump. Many boaters with inboard or stern drive systems try to use them so oil doesn't get in the bilges.

Yes, and the gauge system on the Bullnose goes clear back into the 40s when they were 6 volt systems.

I have never checked the resistance on the gauge sender, but as far as the EFI sensor, I believe I sent Gary that information along with the values for the other sensors TPS, EVP etc.

Ford Racing Products, sold through Summit, has a 9mm set that will be going on Darth's new engine.

Yes, welcome to the admin world Jim. I am admin on two FB groups, one for the 429/460 engines and one for Ford dually trucks. This forum seems to be much tamer.

My dually and I suspect Jim's F250 use the floating washer design nuts but may take the conical nuts. I have seen both styles on the Sterling and Dana HD 250s. My best friend has a 1995 F350 dually and it has the hub centric wheels and uses a 1 1/16 hex floating washer nuts. His 2003 E250 has the 1 1/6 conical nuts which can be a royal PITA to get loose as the cone seems to "pinch" at the inner end. Wheel material does not seem to be the reason for the difference, Darth came with all steel hub centric wheels and the floating washer nuts, the wheels also have pins on the bolt circle area as do the hubs, both front and rear. On the rear, this forces the tire valves to be 180° apart. The Ford Alcoa wheels do the same, although I believe the front wheels do not have the pin as they are location specific, front being made with a different offset than the rears due to the thickness difference between steel and aluminum wheels. Even here where we don't get anywhere near the road salt that is used up North, the front ones can be a PITA to get loose from the hubs.

I have a very nice Fluke 75, a number of the lab employees were gifted with nice new ones after some genius laid off the X31 equipment controller, but let him continue coming in to work until his time was over.