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Brake lines like to rot between the midship tank and the frame rail, because no one washes the sludge out of there. The new Nickel/Copper tubing all but eliminates corrosion, is much easier to form bends and flares. I painted a car on a cool spring morning (back in the early '80's, Centari single stage enamel... VERY slow) and when it warmed up the mayflys came out! 😖😠🤣

It's a D44.... D50's only came on bigger trucks,350's until '85 and 250 extended cabs (only) for sure. Crew cab 250's and regular cabs got the D44 HD unless optioned with a plow package, or intentionally ordered with the big hub D50 as a stand-alone option. But you will see "50"cast in to the diff case.

If it was a 50, it would have a big "50" cast in it...

Plug 'n play, these words are sweet music to my ears. Sounds gooood... All joking aside, I am not going that way, since I already sent my ammeter to Bob McMullen (RCCInovations) to modify it as a Voltmeter. And I have a nice harness ready to plug (thanks to Gary). BUT, maybe some other "Plug 'n Play Aficionados" as I am could find interesting this alternative method. PA Performance is another marketing firm.... They've got nothing you couldn't do yourself for 1/3 the cost. Painless seems to have an exclusive on the distributor connector you've found, for their "DS-II conversion harness" Back on FTE I was keeping shopping lists for all these "upgrades" that you could pull together for cheap.

I don't know what could go wrong. I bought mine at Sears in the '70's

I have (back in Wilton) a carbon pile type battery tester. 💡 You can get plenty of amps into that thing, and the dial is infinitely adjustable

Please start a thread that we can all follow. I used to be into 302s when I bought my '85 GT but a lot has happened in fourth years, and I'd like to understand more about where Windsors are today!

It's essentially a 36 swap interface with a 1G vehicle that leaves all the stock clutter looking unchanged. "Plug 'n play" I'm sure I've mentioned the PA Performance 'bogus' regulator multiple times (probably even in this very thread)

Axle shaft, or axle tube?

Between the midship tank and frame rail is a notorious spot for rot and rusted out brake lines. Few people bother, or do a good job even if they do think about it. I like your photos. Takes me back to a time when I could accomplish anything! (in my feeble mind )

Is the advance hooked to a manifold or ported vacuum source?

That's an interesting piece, with bolt on axle tubes. Does it have any casting marks indicating exactly what it is? Can you decode the BOM?

What environment do you live in? Is your engine worn? I would go with the lightest W rating I can. The second number is at oil operating temperature, generally 225-250F??? So, you always want the oil to flow to the bearings as fast as it can on startup, but you (like me) might have poor pressure at operating temperature. I jumped on an Amazon deal for a 5l jug of Motul10W60, and it worked out great! I'm not liking the idea of a $50 jug of oil (was $32) but filters are still cheap, and it's NOTHING compared to a dealership oil change on a Mercedes or something where the damn filter alone is $65. I obviously haven't been driving much, given how I was nursing the rear, and now only have front wheel drive. Plus, my leg means it's impossible right now to drive clutch. I'll drive it 6-7kmi, which is where I feel modern oils in a vintage engine should be changed. Whatever... oil & a filter is ALWAYS cheaper than a new engine. 💡

Because, like I said, it has a high detergent package and is intended for extended oil change intervals. It also has more ZDDP than SI oils, though not nearly as much as it did before diesels had cats.. Did I not spell all this out?

That's awesome! "Built, not bought" .... but you followed directions and made it so stock parts fit. 👍 My F-250 has about 460,000 on it and most people are aghast. 😱 I did replace the engine in 2008, when a bitter cold start spun a bearing. That's what drove me to FTE, and soon after I 'met' Gary. There are a few of us that fled when ownership changed. Gary, Bill, Myrl, Shaun and myself for sure. Glad you've found us and decided to join!

That's great news Bill! I hope it brings you enough relief that you're able to get out to the shop and putter around, as you'd like.

Best practice would be to run the engine up to operating temperature and let the PCV system do it's job of sucking moisture vapor out of the engine so it doesn't become acid. Even if you just let it idle for 45 minutes or more, not driving it around, will help get condensation out of the crankcase. To answer your questions (from MY perspective only) 1) If I knew I was using good high detergent oil and the truck got started weekly, I wouldn't change the oil until it's due on mileage. -I use a 5k OCI with diesel oil- 2) Seasons mean nothing to me, but I don't live in Canada. I run a heavier oil in summer, but I change more than twice a year due to me actually using my truck. Last year I tried 10w60 in summer and it got rid of my low pressure at hot idle. If I were in Canada and periodically started a dead cold engine I would probably use 5 (or even 0!) W 30 in winter. 3) I don't feel there's any need for snake oil today. I have no cats so I can use diesel oil intended for very high oil change intervals that has a lot of detergent to keep sludge from settling out, inside my engine. This is what ATF or Rislone do. But I'd rather spend my $ on oil I trust than try to doctor up some cheap oil I don't trust. (Don't get me wrong, even Supertech oil from Walmart is GOOD oil) I hope that answers your questions. Other members are going to have other opinions, swearing by Lucas or some other marketing firm. Caveat Emptor!

I drive a roll-back. I can tell you, it's not the speed, but the sudden stop at the end. Acceleration, deceleration, whatever... Trees don't move, nor do bridge abutments (usually 😯) The whole point of that airbag exploding into your face is to give you milliseconds instead of nanoseconds to come to a stop.

https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2024/03/google-search-will-start-automatically-showing-a-chatbot-to-some-users/

My wife made me give up riding too! Although, before we got married there was nothing she liked more than a Sunday morning jet up to Vermont or the Catskills for brunch and a pleasant ride home. I flipped a GSXR 1100 at about 172 and slid over 100 yards. I hit the ground so hard it split the seams of my leathers and blew both boots off. $1400 Bates full race leathers! 😳 No skin from the bottom of my helmet to below my butt, and I ground through the side of my foot (showing bone in my ankle and pinky toe)

Not stubborn, I just don't know pain the same way most people do. That whole "on a scale of 1-10" 🐂 makes me laugh. Meanwhile, I'm really hoping you get the relief you need tomorrow. 🙏 I know that you have a friend to shuttle you to and from...

Every one of us is concerned for you both! ❤️ Something like an appendix or gallbladder comes on fast and needs to be dealt with right away. I spent last weekend in the hospital on IV antibiotics and analgesics because my leg got infected and swelled up like a tree stump. I'd be dead right now if it weren't for the incredible staff at Yale New Haven. 😐

Jim, you and Big Bro have astral links. He was incubating at the factory when you got hurt, and was born while you were under traction. I estimate he was delivered to the dealer end of May and reached his new home on Anticosti Island little before you left hospital. We share a point in the space-time continuum!

Like that isn't going to raise questions. From whom? :nabble_anim_confused:I got T-boned on my motorcycle and knocked into the oncoming traffic lane.

Today is EXACTLY 40 years since I was thrown under a tractor trailer. I broke my pelvis in 6 places, my left hip and prolapsed my rectum (like a tube of toothpaste) I was in traction for over 2 months and got released just after 4th of July 1984.