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What length shank do you need, to get through the flywheel and into the counterbore of the flange? (So the thread run out can't become a shear stress riser at the clamping face) https://www.amkproducts.com/product/b-12697/

You NEED place bolts (Belleville cup under the low profile castellated head) Read what Carroll Smith has to say about Hewland transaxles... 🤨 You find them on REAL equipment like locomotives, Cat & Deere, Hitachi, Komatsu. But if you're looking for UNC it's going to be vintage American iron. I can't get to my equipment shop over the weekend, but if I find you "The Right Stuff" will you actually go for it? I might find 2.25" and you'll have to grind a bit off the end, but the metallurgy WILL BE RIGHT, and they will be up to the task for indefinite abuse. I'll also look at McMaster-Carr. Maybe they have it? Or Small Parts, which is now Amazon..

Nice small shallop! Maggot Brain (the whole album) by Funkadelic. 😁

Oh, it ABSOLUTELY will! Mine is no Scotty build, just junk thrown together..

470 something....

The fact that almost EVERY IDI has a Smf means that almost any diesel shop should have them. If not, there are plenty of places -like Amazon- that can deliver overnight. I'm trying to understand your reluctance. You saw what happened before! 💥 I would have had that stuff ordered the absolute moment I pulled the flywheel

I appreciate your effort. I ordered a "complete kit" but I guess that's only for the carrier???? It shouldn't be too hard to find a driveline shop here in New Haven. If not, McMaster can get one to me.....

I think I changed the pump when I changed the engine in 2008, but it was dead if winter (the 24 Feb) and I was broke, so maybe I didn't. The truck had about 365-75 at that point

With that towing cam it pulls like a freight train around 2,500-3,000. 😤

Sorry, I didn't realize... It's between the root of the pinion gear and the race. # 4663

Hey Gary, do you think you can get me a number for that 0.020" shim?

I can't stand autocorrect. I have a VERY good vocabulary (as a five year old kid I used to read the thesaurus and dictionary for fun!) But often the algorithm decides to put words in my mouth or drop something at random, in the middle of a reply. 😡

You're doing a great job here, Paul!

https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2024/04/meta-releases-chatgpt-like-ai-site-and-open-weights-llama-3-model/

Absolutely! Damage been done. It's too late to be upset about it. I get that, people cowering, or afraid. I realize I'm FAR from the person I appear to be. (a gruff old white dude with great diction and a vocabulary like a sailor! 😂)

I tested it on shallow mud and I had significantly less control in 2WD even though my rear tires were grabbing just fine. I just kept it in 4WD the entire access road I was driving and didn't notice any trouble with steering. I did hear some clunking noises that might have been tire engagement but it also might have been the CAD malfunctioning. As long as I didn't drive in someone else's ruts I could point the truck wherever I needed to. Still needs more test data until I can tell you for sure it's trouble-free. I need to find time to get under the truck and inspect the lines. I am just way too busy these days. What's your plan for the 10.25? I would caution you to use caution the first few times you drive it on snowy highways in 4WD. As I said above, I've heard that a TrueTrac in front is invisible, but I also know how dangerous it can be when one front tire pulls and tries to make you veer into the next lane. So just be careful until you know what it does. And then report back! I think there are aftermarket mechanical CADs. Or at least there were. They might have just been available for the thermally actuated GM units (can you imagine a worse idea than needing something under the truck to get hot so you can drive out of the deep snow you are stuck in ). But it might be worth looking into. Thank you for the advice. I'm not sure if I will encounter a snowy highway but I'll keep that knowledge in my arsenal. A manual mechanical or even electrical actuator for the CAD would be much better, I understand that vacuum might have been chosen due to manufacturing costs but there's got to be a better way. If I can't figure out the solution very easily I might try making it permanently engaged if that's possible without a delete kit. Though I'd rather not because I haven't even checked my fuel economy with all the upgrades yet and gas is $5.50+ Just putting it back with all Dana/Spicer parts (except the pinion yoke that's NLA. I've beat on this ting for close to 40 years, and I don't have that much left in me now so I consider it "lifetime replacement"

ARP for a reason, Jonathan. Don't screw around with something that can bite back, like it already has.

When mine failed it didn't leak, it just wore the fulcrum right out of the pot metal trunnion. I was in a drive through and popped the hood, got out, took the air cleaner lid off and filled the primary bowl through the vent with a 60cc syringe. That's enough to idle for a couple of minutes, but only enough to make it to a parking spot. I was set up now, so I positioned my truck so it was easy to tow. Then I called my buddy Theo. 😉

Have you ever seen sausage being made?

It takes the YouTube server time to process and their AI to vet it for violations of TOS.

I have a Hudderite aunt who lives in northern Idaho. She seems to get by just fine without electricity! 💡

"Rest in Pieces"... 🤣

Of beating the everliving snot out of it. I was not at all kind when I was younger. (maybe, not even now! 😆)

On the valve ground pin 2 and apply power to 1. This should drive the bi-stable valve to the rear tank. If you want to test the switch do like Viven said and see where 12V comes out when you flip the switch with the plug backprobed.

I can only tell you what the door sticker says, and what gets printed out when I drive over a certified scale. I honestly don't care about opinion. I know my personal experience and that's all I care about (facts)