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Where to go??? You arrived after the Nabble owner borked our joining process, but basically new members didn't need the sad & apologetic boilerplate that I have to send . They were sandboxed to the NMSH until they made a post, and were immediately free to post after that. Gary wants everyone to understand that this is a respectful community. Only one person (that I know of) has been shown the door...

Welcome to the forum! That's beautiful country! Gary will ask if you'd like to be on our member map.... The 300 is an incredibly smooth and reliable engine. Do you have any idea how many miles are on it? I prefer NGK V-power for plugs but don't think there's any O2 sensor on an '84 4.9l (I'll admit my ignorance regarding the I-6) Would definitely recommend Motorcraft oil filters and ignition modules. The single barrel YFA carb is about the simplest thing going. The basic design was found on Jeeps and other vehicles, so should be a good introduction to carburetion for you.

I hope it's easy to reach the main caps and drop the crank in-situ. I really am not that familiar w/ how the '70's frames fit the 460.

Up here that is just to keep the rust at bay. I'm really surprised you didn't fix that nightmare before you swapped the engine in. 🤷‍♂️

Vary nice! 👍 Those wheels look good on that truck.

If saying "Hi. I'm Jack, from Salt Lake. I've read the rules and I own a 1983 F-150 with a bad steering column" is too difficult, perhaps we're better off without Jack?

This is a 1986 F250 with a Cummins swap?

Maybe it's a matter of making the dismiss option disappear?

'Lil Red, is a 250 HD and I can't tell you how much better the ride is with a ton or more in the back. Even the tool box (about 950#) helps a lot.

These are the best angles I can get without removing the battery and cold air intake from the radiator support. Also note the hold-down wedge at the front. Hope this helps! (Sorry for the sideways orientation )

Cory said he got some from a Dodge that were a hair too tall, and he cut them with a razor.... David came up with these: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/bronco/fuel-system/gas-tank/378359-s-gas-filler-door-bumper--on-bo I don't know for sure that they are correct, because I don't have the same bed or filler pockets on my Brick...

Do you want me to take a picture of my 87 when it gets daylight? Parts drawings are generic. Don't trust what you see. As long as it's generally correct you can trust the numbers in the MPC (with a few exceptions, as noted)

My 460 has a riser like that. It makes the breather hose to the filter housing horizontal. Fortunately it fits the same way into my flat top, raised rib OMC cast aluminum covers.

I certainly don't need an apology, I was just surmising why your speedometer was off, and radius was the thing that made sense to me. Anyway, I hope changing the gear gets you a lot closer to ideal, and your mileage on track.

I'll be opening this valve soon enough! 🤷‍♂️ It could never hurt to circulate the coolant periodically

I think it was Cory that mentioned the one you need, and that perhaps it was the same as Dodge???? I'll check at lunch.

The sort of person I'm want to say "Everyone's entitled to make poor choices"

Glycol is not only a surfactant, antifreeze and seal lubricant, but in domestic heating systems it seems to prevent muck and any kind of biofilm from forming when it sits for 10 months. Obviously no good for potable water systems, it is toxic after all. ☠️ I try to keep it 60/40 and change it out at 36 months. (if the pump, heater core or radiator don't move me change it first) I doubt you'll ever see -20F in Dallas but it's not unheard of around here, and I like to travel north in winter.

Maybe 3 minutes, and 3oz of coolant.... DONE!

I saw a Gladiator on the other side of the highway yesterday, with ALL the gear, + underglow ........ and 20" rims sticking out wide enough to be in the next lane. Swamp tires loud enough to be a distinctly annoying cacophony at a closing speed of perhaps 120 mph. Why, oh why would someone put up with that all day, every day if they never leave the pavement?

Would that be the distinctive smell of 80w90 gear oil? The fluid I drained had a hint of that but not as strong. It's a bit different, obviously you have the extreme pressure additive smell, but chlorine is a distinct overtone. (?) Maybe it's just that I'm old enough to remember the different refinery smells (and paint factories, and my dad's plastic plants, etc..) in northern New Jersey. My neurodivergent senses and 'special' interest in energetic chemistry mean I'm well aware of danger! It's federal law that they have to provide you with an SDS at the point of purchase, so just ask the sales person, or look it up online.

Okay, here are the pages from my '87 EVTM. Please let me know if you want anything else.

Alright, so those are stamped rockers, nothing bulky like aluminum roller rockers, but the valve covers look nice and you got a good deal! 👍 I have some low profile cast aluminum ribbed OMC rocker covers I got for about the same cost from eBay. I painted them VHT crinkle black and belt sanded the ribs. I like that they seal great and the filler tower doesn't flex the the tin. Honestly, I think you've made a good choice!

Are you saying that new cars aren't made with clutch safeties now? Or that old cars originally made without them haven't had them added? I'm pretty sure that all new cars with manual transmissions have had clutch safeties since sometime in the '80s. Yes, they can be bypassed, but unless you actually want inspections that will result in most older vehicles getting scrapped there's not much that can be done about that. And I'm very glad that owners of old vehicles aren't required to add all newer safety equipment. None of us would have any of these trucks if we had to add air bags, modern crush zones and all of the electronic nannies. He's saying that regulations in Tamil Nadu were very different when he was growing up

Thanks for the reminder Jim. There's been a thread going on over at FTE and I recall Redline MTL was posted by one member. Of course, everyone has the 'magic sauce' for your application... Is there anything that's 80 weight and made for transmissions (like the old SROD) anymore? Or, are there only modern lubricants that will work in old(er) gearboxes? I have no issue with using modern lubricants but would prefer something that won't attack soft metals (like syncros) and not breakdown. The SROD has a reputation for not being 'up to snuff' and I'd prefer not to test that. It's not the multi-viscosity thing that attacks brass, it's chlorine that eats zinc. This stuff is usually added for limited slip fluid so the clutches stay clean and don't glaze. I can't really say which gear oils have, or DON'T have it, but one whiff will tell you. If there's an oil analysis over on BITOG you can know for sure. I'm only getting 15 minutes for lunch today, so I can't look right now..