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Hmmm. 🤔 "Revving hard" or hard to rev? If it's not popping and stumbling I don't think you have an ignition problem. I'd definitely consider a return regulator (like a Hot Fuel Handling system) and some reflective braid like Gary has.

That seems really odd. We don't see it over mid 90's here very much. When you say 'the engine struggles over 1800 rpm' is it missing? Does it sputter and pop? Ignition usually works or it doesn't. A failing coil tends to load the cylinders and then ignite the raw fuel in the exhaust with a bang. What's the fuel system like in your '78? Does the pump deadhead at the carb, or is it constantly recirculating?

I can assure you that the R1T (with its nearly 1,000 hp AWD) _will_ make it up the hill! 🤣 (I'm suddenly reminded of Kate Bush and Donald Sutherland cloudbursting).

Sounds like fluid is bypassing the master cylinder piston and returning to the reservoir. O-rings eventually give up, especially with sludgy fluid. You have a firm pedal, when you have little vacuum. Do you hear a hissing sound from up under the dash when you apply the brakes?

It would be really cool to have a place like NPD locally! I always buy TYC head and tail lights. They're inexpensive and ffit like a glove every time.

How far does your wife typically, daily... weekly? Honestly, if I could give up 90% of my routine maintenance except for tires & wiper blades + never have to bother with stopping at a gas station, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I'm not interested in a car payment, and I'd want V2H & V2G, but around here there are plenty of empty HVDC chargers and I could easily get past Boston, Albany, Philadelphia, and back on the sub 400 mile range my customer with the R1T reports. With Ford shifting production towards the eTransit it's becoming more & more tempting to get a vehicle I can work from.

Or just go electric and there's no fuel pump, injectors, oil or gearbox to even consider...

Your Edelbrock won't destroy the engine in 45,000 miles.

Agreed. Must be a Dodge, because that's definitely not a Ford ID# (and the Pentastar)

100%, the radiators are all the same, but the fans are not... The 400 and 460 share the same distributor but I've never looked at water pump pulleys, clutches or fans. I was only trying to point out the futility of trying to find a 80, 81, 82 460 for parts. An AC automatic would be the one to look for.

I'm under the impression that the 460 only replaced the 400 for '83/ So, 83 or 84, otherwise the lower cradles and nut clips up top to fit a more 'modern' radiator will be needed. Not that either of those are any great challenge.

Id imagine it has a bit to do with where Coke is headquartered.

I'm no 300 expert, but I'm certain the mounting holes in the support are the same. You'll need the fan shroud from the V-8 as well. Radiator hoses 400-460 will be different, so don't expect to get them from your 460 donor. Gates has a nice look-up online, and even if you don't buy Gates hose it's best to be armed with a part number that can be easily cross referenced when you get to the parts store.💡

I don't know what your battery support looks like, but if you're at the junkyard getting the cups off a radiator support you're 99% of the way to having a 1987/on battery tray that sits on top of the plastic fender, and has a diagonal brace to the fender lip..... 💡

Another one for Bill. 😉 Q code Park Lane Brougham

Glad the EVTM pinouts were useful, and you now have the chime you want.

Congratulations on the addition to the stable, Chris! That looks like a fine cruiser and I hope it doesn't take too much to set everything right.

I think he has already corrected the several things noted on first inspection. "Everything should be fine now" Hopefully Nick will get full approval this time! 👍 Edit to add: this is the 1985 troubleshooting section for gauges and senders. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tank-selector--gauges-gas.html It's probably closest to yours, because we don't have the 1984 EVTM posted on the site.

Welcome Nick. Glad you've joined! Since you are familiar with the members map Id imagine that you've seen our other Dutch members and those close-by in Germany, etc... Please create a new topic in the main forum to discuss your fuel gauge fault. In general, the approach is A) Do the water temperature and oil pressure gauges work? This confirms the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator is functioning. B) Is the fault with both tanks? If only one, the problem is likely that sender. If both, it could be the ground or the switch.

That dry roasted thing isn't for me! I guess I have an esoteric palate?

The book specifies 60 GPH for a 460, which is plenty for almost any horsepower we're likely to get in a streetable engine (if you look at a fuel requirement by horsepower table) Obviously the port size in your valve depends somewhat on the pressure your pumps provide, Straight through spool or ball valves don't cause any obstruction to flow.

I want to boil them up right now! (haven't had a fresh peanut in decades 😋) Near 50 years ago we had a peanut farmer in the White House. The '76 elections were contentious, but I'm glad that a cool headed submarine commander from Plains, GA kept the cold war from becoming a hot war (where MAD was not far from reality) I don't mean this to be a political post. So, Gary, if you think it comes close feel free to nuke it! 😉

*CX-291 would be the Motorcraft number. Same exact part, just that you could get a Motorcraft part at a parts store, not only the dealer. 99% of the time the Ford dealer is stocking Motorcraft, but it doesn't fit with the Ford convention of decade, year, division, group, basic number & engineering revision. And there's no need to look in the MPC to decipher an engineering number found ON a part into an ACTUAL part number that can be bought or ordered. A Motorcraft number is the same. On the box. On the part itself. In the catalog. On the invoice.... Right. The description is the number found ON a part (AKA engineering number) but you can't order that #, because it isn't a PART number! . The pump itself isn't controlled by vacuum, so it isn't in the vacuum diagram. The thermactor pump feeds the bypass valve, and the bypass valve is switched by vacuum, so it shows in the diagram. Just like the air cleaner itself isn't shown, but the cold weather modulator and the vacuum motor in the snorkel are on the diagram. You need a pump that has 'X' attachment configuration, and moves 'Y' amount of air per revolution, so the calibration table (56) lists the specific pump you need. But it's not a source of vacuum, controlling vacuum, or operated BY vacuum.... This may be confusing, but I hope it helps.

Always cool when you stumble across a unicorn!