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I think that driver's side muffler is occupying the transfer case drop. Interesting setup that I haven't seen before! 👍

Yep. I wouldn't run too tight to the midship tank. You don't want it overflowing every time you fill up, and you definitely don't want the whole tank to boil This is why people go with fender exit headers. The rockers get hot, but the tank is safe.

Gary worked for Sears when K-Mart bought them out. 'Crazy Eddie' lived here in Greenwich, and was actually kidnapped and held for ransom!

Edit: My sister worked in the morgue for years. I learned by osmosis! Well, these people are vampires, sucking the last vestiges of life out of the companies they take over.

Hoonigan was a Ken Block trademark. They must have sold the rights after he killed himself snowmobiling in Utah. I wonder what capital investment or asset management group is going to snap it up and exsanguinate the corpse?

There was a vent window assembly (the whole thing, with the front track for the main window going to the bottom of the door) on U-techcenter, but I just looked and can't find it amongst their thousands of items on eBay.... 🤷‍♂️

So, you drain the bowl immediately upon stopping, and it can evaporate over time instead of heating up and spilling over while the carb sits cooking in the hot engine bay? Have you looked into the big aluminum heat reflector/radiator plates that fit on top of the spacer but under the carb? I know that some other member had been using one to good effect.

Which connectors do these fit into? Always good to have another arrow in the quiver!

I'm pretty sure that hinge is spot welded to the window frame before powder coating, unless you are talking about the urethane that bonds the glass into the frame itself.

Gorgeous truck Hayden. I'm always envious of how well they last in the southwest!

Welcome Freddy! Looks like a nice solid start to your project.

I hope you enjoy the dinner and show! It will probably be cool to put faces & personalities with their usernames....

You're driving up to Skiatook on Friday? How far is it?

If there's no computer and the only thing is the clutch cycle switch you shouldn't need the diode.

Let's look at the actual EVTM diagram.... The diode is blocking the alternate path to ground, but preventing ringing (or pulse) from getting back to the EEC through the pressure switch by creating a loop to the field coil. There's also .6-7 voltage drop across most diodes, but I don't think that's a factor here.

I pointed out to Rusty that although Iit takes ONE calorie to raise one cc/g of water one degree C, the enthalpy of vaporization is 540, which is then carried away with the vapor. Swamp coolers seem ridiculous to someone in an actual swamp, where dew point and temperature are often butting heads, but in a dry climate they are very effective! 👍

Thanks to Mr. Murphy, we'll not be surprised about these glitches to come. We did our best to prepare the battle field, so I'm pretty sure that these bugs won't be really serious. Big thanks to Chris and Gary! Really excited, can't wait for this new platform! Tremendous effort on their part, and that of InVision staff to get this done! 👍

I imagine that the trailer brakes aren't up to the task either. Glad you've decided to keep it low & slow Jonathan! 👍 It's no joke when the trailer is easily double the weight of the tow vehicle, and you don't have enough brake in the trailer to stop it!

I may have to crack the heater shut off valve in my truck because mornings are chilly and foggy lately with heavy dew. Of course, what we call "Indian Summer" later this week -high '80's during the day- might make me put up with the chill from the vent window open a little longer.

I'm not sure how AC systems work (should be in the EVTM) but my heat only system has a vent or recirc lever, that controls the door by the passenger hood hinge. I suppose this would be 'max ac' with the blower in the off position in your truck. Edit to add: here is the AC vacuum diagram. You can see (on the right) that it should pull the flap closed in EITHER Max AC or Off. I would check that the brittle plastic line is intact and that the vacuum motor actually moves closed with the engine running to provide vacuum. If everything appears functional underhood, it may be that the seals in the selector lever assembly have perished, or the vacuum connector 'block' on the back of it is somehow to blame.

This is not dissimilar to Ford tuning carburetors for 105°F. Cooler air can make more power, but you can't keep the environment at 20° all the time, so you shoot for something reasonable, use the CWM to draw warm air off the exhaust manifold or cool air through the radiator support and call that the baseline. Sure, you may have days above 105, but unless you live in Death Valley those are outliers. The same with component clearances. Cam & crank bearings, rod journals and piston clearances are all cold measurements that should end up optimal at operating temperature. That aluminum piston is going to expand a whole lot more than the cast iron bore it runs in.... 💡

190° is the thermostat temperature, it better be getting a lot cooler than that if it's going to have any ∆ to carry away heat as it goes past the cylinders to the back of the block and then forward through the heads to the thermostat (and bypass) before entering the radiator. Cooler is not better when the viscosity needs to be constant. The forward pump needs to make constant pressure, the torque converter wants a constant viscosity so the truck beheaves the same at all times, the passages/bands/clutches are engineered to be a certain operating temperature. We had the Ford power train engineer who designed the E4OD (and whose father developed the C4&6) back at FTE. I believe his name is Mark Kovalosky??? Cool dude and very engaged when questions came up. 👍

We don't know how long this will take, and I'm sure there will be glitches along the way, but it is going to be well worth it!

I had a think about this, and the things that came to mind were that the wheelbase is 4" longer and the frames are far different. I suppose if you have a welder and enough ability to replace the floor it shouldn't be a big deal to fill some bolt holes and broach some new ones to fit the bed bolts. (I usually tack them to the floor to keep them from turning and get the -by now- really rusty nuts off anyhow) Also. I don't know if the 70's corrugations will put the bolts in the valleys, or you need to drill new holes in the cross braces that bolt to the frame. I'm not sure if the extra 4" of the 70's trucks is that the wheel arches are farther back in the bed or the cab itself is longer. It might pay to find a 73-79 truck and measure before commiting.

I think the bigger point is that the ATF cooler is in the OUTPUT header tank. The radiator has ALREADY done its job, and has no chance to knock down any additional heat that might come from the transmission heat exchanger before it heads off to the water pump. 💡