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From what I can interpret when Gary posted the MPC page with all the radiators on it, there's not any bullnose rad unique to the 460. The only ones bigger and more capable are diesel ones that use the drop 'chin' radiator support. But I am pretty sure the fan on a 460 is bigger or has more pitch than the Windsor fans. I can't speak about the 351M/400 engines. (perhaps Gary knows?) The right fan shroud is essential for proper cooling in southern climates. Glad to hear the Bronco is behaving!

I'd say "the introduction may include whatever you'd like to say about yourself, your truck, or how you happened to aquire it" About the signature, after description of the truck I'd say "and how you'd like to be known conversationally on the forum" Somebody might rather be referred to as Fuzzface2, rather than Dave or Cory rather than Rembrandt. Whenever I respond to someone, I try to use an actual name, if it appears in their sig. I get confused by all the variants of 86 f150xlt, 1986 F-150 XLT, XLT F150 etc...

Most any instance says to plumb it to the cooler first and then through the radiator.(there's a reason the tranny cooler is on the return side of the rad) The tranny fluid wants to be at a constant temperature, and about the same as engine coolant, so the engine coolant system acts to get it up to temp, but the large volume acts as a buffer (taking away heat, or adding it as needed)

Also, Gary will chide you for not following instructions and making an introductory post in the New Members Start Here section, like the confirmation email you were sent had a direct link. Hopefully, in a week, when we move this platform to InVision this will become completely redundant because the system will be automated and new members will be sandboxed until they agree to the TOU and complete their profile.

First off, if you changed from automatic to manual you need a new starter, because an automatic starter will NOT disengage from a flywheel. The starter will eat itself as soon as the engine is running. Second, I'm assuming that you are talking about the engine ground cable. The ground cable goes from the battery to under one of the starter attaching bolts

I'd think if you ground more taper into the lobes you'd need lifter crown to match. (it can't just run on a razor thin margin and not cause damage) X2 on the cam choice. What does moving the LCA 5° do to your base circle diameter? Or do they just make the ramps steeper and leave the lift alone? I'm just visualizing the shifted peaks, but I suppose it doesn't amount to much if intake & exhaust only move 2 1/2° each.

Every tire machine I've used points in or out on the weights. Like Matt said, sometimes you can get away with it, when appearance matters more than proper wheel balance.

I'm glad this finally worked out for you CJ! It's been a long road.

I remember stuffing the phone handset into a teletype. In the mid '80's I sold satellite air time for video conferences on the Westar network. Back in the '90's I was so good at mimicking 56k dialup people would think it was real. Then digital subscriber links. Then came T1 lines, where you could actually get a video feed without buffering (lame resolution, but still....) Today almost anyone can pull a tiny computer out of their pocket and have a 4k or 720p conversation with anywhere else on the planet. The amount of available bandwidth is truly mind boggling!

That's a big sheet of metal that's not going to ship anything but FOB and just crating it is going to cost as much as the stamped metal itself. IIRC I replaced the entirety of my bed floor with 18x48(?) panels from Mill Supply Plastic drop in bedliner+30 years of sand grinding away under there.... It really wasn't bad piecing them together. I used the Fitzee "cut & butt" method of laying them over each other and using the .045 disc at an angle to get a tight scribed joint.

I don't think it burns valves, but I DO see how a blast of cold air could warp a valve. In 460 heads the thermactor passages run right past the exhaust ports (I don't have Scotty's porting templates in front of me, but it's really easy to grind through) I definitely don't think the air is 'cold' by the time it enters the port, and the engine is always running if the pump(s) are turning. Even at 600rpm idle that valve is pushing combustion products out 300x a minute, or 15x every second.

The thermactor crossover at the back of the heads pumps oxygen directly into the exhaust ports. This helps burn off all the raw fuel and carbon monoxide that makes it out the exhaust valve. Obviously this is a lot of wasted energy, and crazy heat in the engine bay. The analogue of how they used to just flare gas off at the well head instead of capturing it and using it for polymer chemistry

At least as far as Usenet & BBS back in the '80's

Welcome! That's quite the collection. 👍

100% this. Heat just the gear (stant the flywheel on a brick or something so the gear drops off, then flip the flywheel over, set the new gear on top and heat it until it has expanded enough to drop all the way on. Remember that the starter engagement face should not have sharp edges.

Well, not my tailgate, because I have an 87 and the mechanism is completely different, but I will give 75451 a try. I definitely don't ever use oil on things like this. The dust and grit sticks and eats soft bushings instantly, but I will use powdered graphite or Teflon spray for sure. 👍

I'm pretty sure I've tried that set, but didn't get lucky. I will order in another one and see if we anything begins to fit, but I think that's how I ended up here, begging.

85 model year is the switchover as far as I can tell. ( Of course Gary has a tutorial on adding the two clip nuts and 'stirrups' to the earlier radiator support..) A shroud and deeper radiator should make a huge difference!

The flywheel is a huge heatsink. Even a plumbing B-tank with only acetylene is heads and shoulders above dealing with a glorified propane torch, and the pencil tip lets you apply heat where you need it and not waste btu's on the surrounding area.

My driver's door cylinder will lock, but NOT UNlock the door. I took it apart today and it appears the plastic clip is mangled. Obviously, I've done this to myself but I can't find a source for them (or a reference to them in the aftermarket) Does anyone know where to find one, or have another number that works and is available? TIA

That fan clutch is nothing but good. Believe me, you don't want a solid mounted or flex fan. To the best of my knowledge there never were fan shrouds on 300's. Only a little top mounted 'finger guard' on some models I have a V-8 super cooling radiator and shroud from 'The Giving Truck' but (as I'm sure you know) the inlet and outlet are reversed from the I-6.

Well.... good, and not so good. I understand your frustration, but a torch would have those ring gears swapped in 10 minutes. 👍 FWIW, a complete flywheel w/ ring gear was $107 delivered for my 460. I know an SMF for a diesel is going to be $$$, but when I swapped the Sf into my truck it was cheaper to go brand new than to have the new machine shop Blanchard grind the old flywheel.

Not if the cable end pops off the ball stud, which is what the (typically single) return spring is meant to guard against Edit to add: Typically, nested springs are wound in opposite directions (clockwise & counterclockwise) so they can't bind each other up. 💡

Now that I see the picture it could be the relation of the stud to the throttle shaft. Way forward and down low like that, you're essentially trying to pull directly through the axis. I realize you're in the upper of two holes but spacing the cable bracket up (even 5/8") would probably help a lot with how stiff the pedal is coming off the stop.

"NASCAR Style" = rollers. Any kind of oil resistant sealer will work, even something like Hylomar that never sets up, and won't glue the race in for next time.