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Welcome to the forum. I can tell that you were anxious to post that question, but the email you were sent specifically said "You will then be taken to the New Members Start Here folder where we ask you to start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." But it appears you did not do that. The reason we request that step is because that will bring you face to face with our guidelines, adherence to which is a requirement for being part of this forum. Others have been banned for not adhering and have said they didn't read them. So we want to ensure that you have had a chance to read them so that you don't get in that bind. Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself and your truck. And once you've done that we can discuss the hydroboost question. I'm in the middle of my conversion on a 460 and can probably help. Reviving a necrothread because it seems my Sag is dead from sitting while I dealt with the fragmentation grenade that went off in my pumpkin! 💥. Okay, so any recommendations on a really good Saginaw for an 86 Club Wagon? I'd obviously prefer new over some Cardone or store brand reman, and for the most part I can handle 'armstrong' steering while stopped or slow, though parallel parking is quite challenging.

I definitely have a 650 AVS in Wilton. I just haven't been there in 9 months.... I'm going to make a valiant attempt at retrieving my tools and will let you know if I still have it. It worked fine on my truck, with minor mods: like a cam, Performer intake and big exhaust. It should be fine in a Bronco (if a little under-tuned, given how heavy my P/U is..)

Thanks Will! I really just need the ones that are held by the U-bolt's to the rear axle. I did the links a couple of years back (and, at first, got two different sets from the same vendor, in the same bags (Gary knows. I have pictures!) But I will get on it, since the guts* of my rear axle are brand new RN...

Will, can you give me a # for the rear bushings you used? Mine are getting very sloppy.

Welcome Julian! Glad to have you aboard. I've spent 37 years with my 460, so maybe know a thing or two.

Remember, with a carb specific gravity matters. The heavier the fuel the harder the Bernoulli effect has to work to suck it out of the bowl and into the air stream where it can atomize. Alcohol's are pretty light. Leaded fuel, and some of the crazy race fuels we used to run are very dense (heavy) It all depends on the molecules, and how they pack together. You can't trust an A/F (oxygen) sensor when the fuel contains it's own oxygen. 💡 They need to be calibrated to a specific blend ... and I don't have the metrology to accomplish this anymore more.

Crew cab and full bed is a lot of truck! Do you have space for the cab, bed and chassis? While piecemeal sounds great from the start, the reality is you end up working around things all the time and it ends up being 5x the project you wanted, budgeted and have time for. DAMHIK... With the chassis fully exposed you can get to all of it. Needle scale the inside corners, nooks and crannies. It's WAY easier to run brake and fuel lines. You can get to the rearmost spring hangers where they fit in the pocket. You can get to the radiator support horns. You can get to the cab mounts beneath your feet. You can tip up the bed and clear the debris out of the mount channels, then wax-oil them all the way across You can easily weld in cab corners and that brace at the back of the cab.

I probably would have run a strap of steel (perhaps a box-box wrench the right length?) over the end of the shaft and used a bolt through the pivot and adjuster ears to apply pressure while tapping and heating. Or just beating on the wrench handle, with pressure applied. 🙄 But I'm the kinda guy that gets resourceful with whatever is at hand, and I don't have much left, at this point...

Always adding to the knowledge base! "Ground here to test"

It's a maintenance item in a fuel system that's 40+ years old. I know that I don't want to burn my truck down over $10 worth of hose that (like DOT brake hoses) should be changed at least every 10 years.

The stuff is like a buck a foot. How hard is it to change on an older Bullnose? You don't need to buy a stupid $$$ tool like the nylon lines, right? The lines at my pump just have normal hose clamps.

Any rubber fuel hose you can buy today is going to be completely unaffected. I don't know about Larry's truck, but I have a mechanical pump. There's feed & return behind the power steering pump (less than a foot each) and perhaps 3' of hose between the frame rail and rear tank, going from behind the saddle tank across the crossmember and into the hole.

I'm not sure why you think an extra 5% of ethyl alcohol is any more dangerous to your remaining soft lines than any of the other constituents of modern gasoline (which are constantly changing, due to market conditions) Gasoline used to be distilled from crude oil in a huge fractional column, but that was 50-60 years ago. Refineries today use catalytic cracking to make whatever hydrocarbon molecule they like, and often whatever fetches the highest price on the spot market that day. Different constituents are then blended to insure proper vapor pressure (volatility) for the season, and arrive at a certain R+M/2 octane rating. The alcohol portion of gasohol is simply a jobs program for both farmers and distillers, and a subsidy to big Agra. Ethanol isn't going to magically dissolve a fuel line or gas tank. Methanol is highly corrosive to the zinc portion of brass, and race carbs exclusively use stainless jets and plastic floats for that reason. Billions of people pour ethanol down their gullet every day. 🤷‍♂️ People used to deliberately put methanol or isopropanol in their gas in winter, because old storage tanks would get condensation inside, and it would freeze in the bottom of your tank, blocking the pickup screen. Alcohol is miscible with both water and petroleum, as well as having a much lower freezing point than water. So it will carry water through the system, and in high enough concentration (about 60%, or 120 proof) burn readily. But it is hygroscopic, and when gasohol is left exposed to the atmosphere long enough the alcohol will take on enough water vapor that the alcohol portion can no longer mix with petroleum. In this case MORE alcohol is better, because it takes that much more moisture to make it separate. But if you use the fuel in your tank, or have a modern sealed system, that can't happen. I used to blend a lot of race fuel, where mileage doesn't count (alcohol and nitromethane, but pure petroleum products to get around rules in some classes) and many race engines are built and tuned to run on ethanol or methanol exclusively. My little brothers AWD Taurus Police Interceptor is a flex fuel vehicle and becomes an absolute animal on E85 (100-105 octane) Pure ethanol is about 112 octane, and because it's subsidized by your tax dollars, cheaper than oil. Refineries can then use cheaper petroleum products to come out at 87, 91, whatever.. octane rating they sell at the pump.

You're doing great I used to develop methods that no one even considered simply because I didn't know any better, and I'd never heard "You can't do it that way!" Ignorance is bliss? Dumb luck to stumble through a much easier or more effective method? Whatever... "It works for me!".

I solved this with an updated lower column that uses a universal joint a each end. My steering wheel is still tight 37 years in... 💡 (at least there is no up down, side to side movement from in the cab) But. If your's is wasted, you probably want to look into Gary's solution.

Hard to imagine that Chrysler used the same MC from 1977 to 2003! 🤯

Absolutely! He who gives up their freedom for security deserves neither. (paraphrasing Franklin) But the 21st century is a whole new paradigm. Look at the cop in Evansville ID who was creeping social media with their facial recognition software. Add link***. https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2024/06/cop-busted-for-unauthorized-use-of-clearview-ai-facial-recognition-resigns/ There is no place that is 'safe' unless you live like Ted Kazinsky in a remote cabin in Montana with no electricity, and no toaster that calls home.

Gary went aftermarket, and has the process documented in Big Blue's thread. IIRC he mentioned it not long ago (with a link)

Eh, but you got it done and it's working now, so 100%! 👍👍 Two thumbs up. 😉

As always, you have the documentation. You're invaluable, Gary! 👍

https://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2024/06/microsoft-in-damage-control-mode-says-it-will-prioritize-security-over-ai/ https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2024/06/microsoft-delays-data-scraping-recall-feature-again-commits-to-public-beta-test/

Oh man that's pretty! ❤️ Which head gaskets did you use w/ the Flotech heads? Do you think the slightly bigger port volumes will affect bottom end with that cam? There used to be a kid here in town that had a very healthy 351(ish ) in his Mustang. He had some kind of 4-link or alternate rear suspension because there's no way a car that light should hook as hard as it did. Word spread fast not to even try...

I'm no IDI expert but every diesel Bullnose I've seen has this insulation on the firewall and in the kicks. Maybe someone like Mryl who worked in the dealership back then could give you a definitive answer?

I have the small triangular reinforcement plate in my truck. It ties the firewall to the trans tunnel and the pinch weld above.

Sorry, it took me a bit... But, as the photo shows, they pop right in there. 👍