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My sister lived in Swarthmore until she moved to 'Duck Ditch' SC. I still have nieces and nephews to the south and west of Philly. You don't say exactly where you're from, but I have nieces/nephews in Chester, Ridley, Morton, Ardmore and Chestnut Hill.

Well, rear door gaskets are available. FWIW, All crew cab trucks were made in Ontario. Bill Vose can confirm...

Is that ID tubing or OD for those numbers? ID.

I have the joy of RABS! That light came on about '92, when the tone ring tossed a bunch of filings on the magnet. I took the bulb out of the cluster! 💡

Wire nuts are a bane on humanity! Right up with Scotchlok's and cheesy crimp connectors applied with diagonal cutters. I've seen this sort of thing before. The PO definitely had deep seated psychological issues!

My wiper motor doesn't look quite like that. It can be tricky to fish the linkage through the cowl openings. Check the connector for corrosion. Also be sure to have the engine ground cable attached just below the wiper motor. These motors pull a lot of current and need good grounds.

I was just saying in another thread that I have a bunch of family south and west of Philly. 🤯 What engine is in it now? The venerable 300 or a 302??? We love family hand downs or inherited vehicles here on the forum, and can definitely get you going. Most of these engines are very similar at their heart, it shouldn't be too difficult.

Look at this screenshot from RA. You can easily see that both Precision & Fairchild offer gaskets for the REAR doors of a Bullnose pickup.

Need a little more context here Lou. How long a wrench did you try turning the engine with? Do you live in a state like California, where you have to be concerned that everything is 'as built' and all the emissions are functional? What are your goals for your grandfather's truck? Daily driver? Immaculate restoration??? 1980's have very basic control systems and a somewhat unique wiring harness/gauge cluster. F 100's have Armstrong steering and non-assisted brakes, correct? Does it have 3-on-the-tree as well?

Nice Will! You've already put a bunch of work into her, but I'm sure you add a little something to that list all the time. There's no reason your 250 shouldn't be as reliable as the day she rolled off the line.

Put a piece of electrical tape over it (or take it right out) if you don't like the CEL. The bulb is trying to tell you something...

Yes, the random green wire is for an understood light. It's built into the harness of all trucks, but if your truck wasn't ordered with the option there won't be anything attached. This is your wiper motor. Although it appears wrong ( should be 90°. You can see the open hole at the lower right)

Uh, that's a vacuum actuated blend motor for the heater, not anything to do with the wipers. The wiper motor is in front of the driver attached to the front of the cowl, where the shaft sticks through inside the cowl to an eccentric arm attached to the linkage bar that connects the two wiper arm studs together. You can get new plastic linkage bushings in the Dorman HELP section of most auto parts stores. Sometimes it's the output bushing of the motor transmission. In that case it's easier to just replace the motor, complete, for $40 or whatever they get these days. You should try Fairchild gaskets for those rear doors. They have a pretty amazing selection, that goes back well over 50 years. Or give them a call if you can't find what you need....

My truck has 4.10's and stock (32")"tires. It goes well over 120 if you wind it up to redline. 🤷‍♂️

Your neighbor is the very reason we have had a TPMS mandate for 22 years....

That's methed up!

The bead chain was cruise control. 3/8 feed and 5/16 return on the fuel lines. I've never seen red romex. White =14, yellow=12, Orange=10 Ga. Red is for fire alarms....

Pretty much anything built September on is the next model year. (that's when the millwrights come in to change the lines over if any major changes are made) Sometimes things like an axle are a running change. TTB to D60 front for 350's or D60 rear to Sterling 10.25 for 250-350 were switched out as stock was depleted. Not all plants changed at a certain moment.

Never seen anything like that before. Seems to be a reminder not to fill the truck with diesel.

Please don't tell my sister!

My little sister lives in Goose Creek.....

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The blower motor always has power in run The motor or squirrel cage could be gummed up, or you have a ground problem on the switched side Parasitic drain will show if you put a meter between the battery - terminal and the ground cable Be sure the doors are shut so you're not seeing the dome light If the drain is substantial, the first place to check is the diode bridge in the alternator. Put your hand on the back to see if it's warm/hot. Disconnect the alternator charge cable at the battery+ stud of the fender mounted relay and see if the draw remains. Go familiarize yourself with the 1986 EVTM... : Documentation/Electrical/EVTM 's/1986 EVTM The Hot Fuel Handling system was sort of a mandatory option in some DSO's My truck has a mechanical pump, but I'm familiar with HFH, and can walk you through the troubleshooting.

I think it might be something similar to Vaseline, where the Brand Name becomes the common term (also Q-Tips). I just call that a "padded clamp", but I'm glad to learn that it is an Adel clamp. I call them "Cushion Clamps" Paddle bits / Spade bits.... Cory, did I see that you posted something about BBK headers on one of your Flare Side pickups? I now have a 302/SROD to go into my truck and would like some shortie headers for it. However, it seems like the mechanical clutch linkage makes that difficult. Do you have any insight? Thanks. I've always referred to those as Adel clamps. What I learned to call them as a young aircraft mechanic. Based on "young aircraft mechanic" and your avatar, thanks very much for all of your efforts Dane. I appreciate you. Kleenex, bandaids, aspirin, heroin..... Dane is spot on (as are you!) Have a look in Aircraft Spruce or likely even McMaster-Carr. I ran into a similar situation when looking for place bolts for Jonathan's diesel flywheel.

Everything SHOULD BE short pinion (85-92) parts. But I've just seen a yoke on Amazon listed as 85-92 with a D3TE p/n, so obviously not all manufacturers have it right. Tried to buy everything Dana/Spicer but couldn't find a 4.10 gear set so..... 🤷‍♂️ I'll post a pic of the pinion splines when I get out there...