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That really doesn't seem like enough temperature delta to make a difference. Steel expands, but it's not that much if only like 300F. But if you get the pulley glowing you'll ruin the shaft seal in the pump just from conduction & radiation. It's meant to be pulled/pushed cold. IIRC there's a 0.004" interference fit on my Saginaw pump.

It is an interference fit, and as such the holding power goes up as the shaft fits deeper into the pulley. **The shaft is threaded for a bolt, so you can use a washer to pull the pulley onto the shaft, not to retain it...** But if it gets tighter still as more shaft protrudes out the front, then the shaft must be at fault, because the pulley is already 100% engaged, and the bore is straight Bring the pump back to the store (with a micrometer) and demand a part that is fit for service. That's just a load of .....

Centered on the water pump and crank pulleys??? I usually lay a 1/2" metal rod or something in the sheaves and can see right away if I'm going to eat/throw my belts. It's a straight shaft and bore (at least it should be!) Why do you think you need a puller and forcing bolt? IIRC, the Saginaw is 3/4 and the C2 is 11/16. If yours is sloppy, and it wasn't before, you have a crappy reman with the shaft out of spec.

Not injection. 150 trucks (and Bronco's) got the feedback carb, or could be optioned with the H.O. I'm trying to make sense of this, but I don't know what we're dealing with.

I can't find the 351 in the 85 or 86 EVTM's Gary has posted. If it were a 460 I'd say it is getting full voltage in prime (while cranking) and the pump is too sluggish to provide fuel in run (with the resistor) But I only know HFH, and not whatever a 351 Bronco is wired like. I still don't know if it is EEC IV (2V) or H.O. (4V)

It's not like the shaft is tapered. 🙄 If the pulleys are misaligned when it's installed just pull it out until it is coplanar.

Yes! 🕷️

Try getting a pickup (or any vehicle!) with a stick. But we have refrigerators with AI that tell you when you're out of milk, and you can look inside them from the supermarket on your phone. Humanity is damned!

My '87 doesn't even have the bottom bracket (for a skid plate, I assume)

I honestly don't know Will. I don't see any documentation in the Transfer case section but it may be in the chassis section. At the very least you have the BW service manual and some pretty nice exploded illustrations.

We're already at the point where LLM pass the Turing test. I'm saying is this a "tell" that would unmask an AI?

Bees and their kind are very industrious, hence "busy as a bee" You should see wasps and hornets build paper nests!

You just need one capacitor. Usually it's attached to the ignition coil. With the 1G and external regulator there is one, because the contacts inside are switching on and off all the time. Electronics has put an end to this, with newer units.

If you see a single disconnected green wire near the driver hinge it's for the optional hood/reel light. Try to describe these things and one of us probably knows...

https://arstechnica.com/ai/2024/07/the-telltale-words-that-could-identify-generative-ai-text/ Turing, or no...?

Eliminating friction wherever possible always helps. 👍 How's the heat where you are? (sorry, I don't look at the map often) I know laying on asphalt the other day fixing my nephews new -to him- car really took it out of me! I'm reminded that Torrington is about the highest point in my state, but still south of the Berkshires. There used to be a lot of industry jobs here (machine tools, firearms & all type of military work) because of all the rivers. We still have what's left of Electric Boat, Sikorsky and Pratt & Whitney. Bridgeport, Moore, Pratt&Whitney and the other machine tool companies + Ruger, Colt, Winchester, Remington, etc are all long gone.

Progress is Gooood! Cooler is essential. C6's are bulletproof, but they're really good at turning power into heat. Sorry to hear you're still under the weather. Hope you shake whatever bug and are back 100% really soon!

I was going to say mud dauber. It's also not uncommon to find them in the axle vent, and people think they have bad hub seals... It could well be crap in the tank has the pickup 'sock' all jammed up. You could try putting another 5 gallons in and blowing back through the fuel line to dislodge any rust or varnish deposits. The rollover valve needs to equalize pressure so the tank doesn't see vacuum. I've run a piece of tygon fuel line from the check valve up the filler tube, terminating in a Toyota/Lexus transmission vent that is up above the filler pocket of the bed. This setup seems to work fine for me, but I live north of NYC, and certainly don't experience gulf coast heat. ETA: Is your Bronco the 2 barrel electronic or the 351H.O. 4V?

Great progress Will! Yes, the pile of rubber is potting from a previous ignition module. Some people don't understand how hot failing transistors can get. "Spare wire for later" is okay in a vehicle like this without a bunch of sensitive electronics, but you're essentially creating an inductor (like your ignition coil) and with a newer vehicle you don't want magnetic fields, or back EMF when the power gets cut in that circuit. I also don't know what all is inside that loom, but it's 'best practice' to minimize lengths of parallel wires and use 'twisted pair' for things like sensors. None of this is criticism, it's observation, and critique.(how else can we learn?) I think you've done a fine job. Glad that so much of the sketchy wiring was actually alright!

Stop the world! I want to get off. Not kidding one little bit

We're ALL cavemen here! Air bags & other SRS total plenty of cars that get in what would otherwise be a minor punt. But when you need all new seatbelt retractors, new glass, new seats, door panels, A pillars, steering wheel pad, PLUS all the bag/initiator devices it's not worth fixing. A LOT of tear away stitches go into a modern interior! TPMS, in 2002??? People have no idea how to check their tires. Or brakes, or oil, or coolant, or filters, or... Hell, they don't even have a temp or pressure gauge to watch trends and know when things are going wrong. Maybe EV's with their vastly reduced maintenance items are going to save the auto industry? Because 95% of the drivers today only want an appliance that won't break down.

What are you supposed to do, given the federal safety mandates and the state of technology at the time? 🤷‍♂️ Like I've said before, none of these vehicles were meant to last a decade. Hell, back at the beginning of the '70's it was amazing if your vehicle made it 8 years or100,000 miles without a major rebuild! That's where vehicles like Mercedes and Volvo got their reputation for quality and longevity. They certainly weren't amazing by today's standard. Think about the tolerances and surfaces that allow a crapbox Kia to run 0W-20 and have the sort of power train warranty they offer. 💡 I remember when Hyundai was as bad as a Yugo (Fiat) Now id rather drive a Genesis than a Mercedes.

I stand corrected! The Hot Fuel Handling system is pretty straightforward. It's the multiple layers of failsafe (inertia switch, oil pressure switch, relays, that usually go bad... or their associated wiring) Also people don't understand that it is powered through a fusible link and that it will (should) always prime if cranking. Early models did this through the 'I' terminal of the starter relay, but later versions have a diode in the harness.

I don't think there's any kind of clip at the rear, just the screws you reach through the cowl slots (but I have a polka dot cowl for 87) Usually wiper motors fail when the magnets inside the housing come unglued. If you clean it well JB Weld often puts it back in order. Otherwise it is the 'park' tab that goes bad, and the motor doesn't want to budge because it 'thinks' it shouldn't move.

My goodness, you've been busy!