ArdWrknTrk

I agree that the 1345 is a more robust TC than an un-fixed 1356. I have encountered that failure, and it is NO fun!!! I'm glad for my slip yoke, but I'm not doing any real off reading. The eight lug D44 HD was found under a lot of 250's and has a smaller hub lockout than the straight hub of a D50, which is the same as a D60. D50's were only common under Supercabs for some reason. Even crew cabs usually come with a D44, but I suppose anything can be optioned....

I'm glad to hear you've got it working! Strange indeed that the choke wire failed internally.

Gary & I have discussed the F-250 460 4x4 1st ratio at length. It appears that the internet legendary 6.32 gear doesn't exist. Are you sure the TC is a 1345 and not 1356? I thought by 87 the 1345 had been retired? At least the 45 doesn't have the oil pump problems of the 56. Interesting that your truck has a D50 axle up front. I was under the impression that type 3 wheel covers were never offered with the large center hole to fit the D50 & 60 Is the entire engine harness cut away? Does this truck have AC and hot fuel handling? As a fellow 87 250 460 owner I think you'll enjoy this truck when you get it running.:

That's not the case. The cam has been nitrided or something else. The cam and lifters need to burnish into each other (see cylinder & rings plateau) The lifters and cam lobes need to be completely flooded with cooling & lubricating oil while this happens. The only way you can assure that kind of volume is to run the engine at or above 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes or so.

Anodizing IS a surface treatment...

Were the headers coated in anything like ceramic coating to help hold off heat? I sent mine out to Jet-Hot and got their 2000 Off-Road coating they told me it doesn't reduce temperatures under the hood like their silver standard 1200 ceramic coating but I don't buy that, it's a thick coating it should provide insulation the way the guy explained it to me it's the silver color that reflects heat a way, don't see how but that's what I was told lol. I personally don't have to worry about vapor lock on my setup since I am going to be going from 6psi to 60 psi fuel pressure when I drop my new engine in. I did however still route my custom bent 3/8" stainless fuel line like the factory that has it exiting under the power steering pump. Pretty good ways away from the header also which should hopefully keep the hot headers from getting sprayed down with fuel in case of a fuel hose failure down the line. That works too with some insulation from temperature as well. I'm going to be snapping the 3/8 stainless hardline I bought from Inline-Tube for my truck into the OE clips on the frame. I'm hoping the clips holding the factory 5/16" line will accept the 3/8" line without breaking. One thing I thought about was doing like late model cars and covering the fuel line on the frame rail in the silver foil backed fiberglass insulation to insulate it from heat as much as possible. But on the flip side pressuring the fuel up to 60 psi generates heat and that could hold heat in more, so I am on the fence on that still. Thats one thing that never made logical sense to me. Chrome is thin and provides no form of insulation, but yet places like Jet-Hot claim their silver ceramic coating reduces under hood temperatures while their non 1200 series silver ceramic coating does not provide any form of reducing under hood temperatures. I just don't see how my 2000 off-road series ceramic coating that is rough like sandpaper won't insulate my headers and keep exhaust heat in better than their thin 1200 series silver ceramic coating. But that is what they say, I could how ever see bright colors reflecting radiant heat away however like a white color reflecting sun rays away to the point that it doesn't absorb enough UV rays to generate enough heat. I just don't see how that works in the case of headers where it's not the outside absorbing radiant heat but the inside that is being exposed to the heat and the outside is supposed to keep the heat in. I avoided the 1200 series silver coating in favor of the 2000 series off-road coating for more durability and temp rating as well as getting the titanium color for a more natural bare steel look. Didn't like the silver as it just looks like cheap autozone chrome, and I know any little scratch turns a dull dark gray that is very noticeable. Then you don't understand infrared and the different means of heat transfer... Convection: heat rises in response to gravity. Conduction: metals like silver, copper and aluminum readily conduct heat. Others like titanium and stainless don't... Then we get to stuff like glass, some ceramics and aerogels, that REALLY don't conduct heat Radiation: infrared energy is heat. It can be focused by a lens or reflected by a mirror. This is why we have chromed starters, headers and intakes. They keep the heat out, or in. A reflective surface (whether facing -or- away from) a heat source will reflect heat. In fact Gold is a better reflector than chrome for IR, and it never tarnishes, so it maintains its emissivity almost forever. Gary or Bill can tell you the spark plug heat shields on an EFI 460 have a gold coating on the side facing away from the exhaust (but it doesn't matter what side) Everybody understands that you can mirror a parabolic dish and use it to boil water. There are curved buildings that inadvertently create the same issue. (London and Vegas) Just look at the various molten salt heliospheres out in the desert.... IR is reflected by shiny surfaces. And they don't need to be facing the heat to work. If you have a non-contact thermometer you need to be aware of the surface. This is why we call it "black body" temperature. Because that's the only way to make an accurate comparison. We have black fins on air cooled engines because they are more effective at transferring heat. Radiators are painted or anodized black for the same reason. Then we have newer stuff like Vanta Black and carbon nanotubes which are next level at adsorption. Edit to add: You want a thin, light shell to lessen the ability to HOLD and transfer heat by conduction. (in another thread I mentioned using a tin can as a starter heat shield) Imagine a piece of black paper and a chunk of asphalt that have been sitting out in the sun all day. Which would you rather pick up and hold? Right, that's because the paper has far less thermal mass. Which is why I said that black rubber fuel line is precisely not what you want to shield a fuel line. While it may slow thermal transfer momentarily, it is a far better adsorber OF radiant heat, and once it does get hot, it STAYS hot.

Yes, aluminum really pulls heat away, plug AFR recommended as a starting point was Autolite 3924 copper plugs. From the Autolite tech sheets I found online there is no clear-cut way to rank Autolite plugs to compare them, but my plug is the 392 family, it is a resistor plug and it is a 4 on the heat range. This family consists of plugs 3922, 3923, 3924, and 3926, so my 3924 plugs are on the hot side of the family range and even summit states for mild small block aluminum head builds the 3924 would be used in many of these applications. I just need to make sure because in my case once I move 90% of my driving will be at 65 - 75 mph on the highway for hours on end turning between 2,400 and 3,000 rpm. So, I might need to go with a 3926 if the aluminum heads, 7 bladed flex fan, and aluminum 2 core radiator draws too much heat out of the plug. On the flip side it might be too hot and I need to go down to a 3923 plug. One thing I found interesting is the 3924 plug translates to a RC12YC champion or a FR5 NGK plug. What caught my eye was the 12Y for champion, my old Fairlane took 14Y Champions when new which sadly is no longer produced since I wanted to keep with champions. Just like these 3924 plugs I tried to find a Motorcraft cross over I prefer Motorcraft plugs over autolites but there is no cross over. Yes, it is good to start with what the manufacturer suggests, they built whatever you are using, and they know a good starting point if not what to use regardless. I've had problems out of the box with Autolite. Ceramic not crimped into body, cracked insulators, twisted ground or flat against the center conductor. And I can never seem to get 8 that are correctly gapped. I've been using NGK V-power since the mid '70's in dirt, and then street bikes. Now the bikes take crazy $25 plugs but I keep using V-power in my truck. I use UR4, and am surprised that Gary needed to go colder with his far more efficient F3TE heads. Some people don't understand how they change the heat.range.... The ceramic cone in the plug goes deeper, making for a longer path to the head, where the heat is pulled away. Therefore the tip stays hotter. Like you said, if you read the carbon ring you can tell where it stays hot enough to burn away.

Yep they are a pain, for me I will have to do it cause my engine is all new and nothing from the factory so I have to figure out what plugs mine need. My starting point is what AFR recommended for my heads and they state they are a pretty commonly used plug with my head so I should be fine. I still want to do a chop to make sure everything is good. I dont have knock sensors nor computer controlled timing but I do have an aftermarket EFI system to take over my fuel so I am not too concerned about AFR, I am more concerned about my plug heat range and my ignition advance as well as if I am detonating or not since my timing is going to be a bit on the edge of what all sources state I should be running for fast burn cylinder heads. Aluminum heads really change things. They can sink so much heat you may find you need to go two steps hotter than with CI and the same build, but I suppose you'll find out. Always good to start with manufacturers recommendations!

You should be good on the detonation, when you pull the plugs out now you should have a tan color porcelain which means you are not too hot and not too cold. I suspect what was happening is your electrode was getting hot enough on some cylinders to cause a slight detonation. You didnt have what appeared to be silver pyramids so you weren't knocking metal off your pistons, you were detonating just enough to rattle some carbon loose. Heres an old diagram I got about timing indicator mark on the electrode strap. Its one of those things that I am kind of dreading to do for my build, considering the proper way to do a plug read is to do a hard full throttle pass then kill the ignition system then pull the plugs. No way for me to do that unless I do it on the side of the road away from home. Plug chops are a pain now that we have knock sensors and AFR meters.. God I used to loathe the time spent for hundredths, and costly teardowns when you missed, or the weather bit you in the butt. Top fuel guys have the almost unlimited budget to be on the ragged edge. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Cumm bring the awesome!!! 😁 Someone's crazy enough to do it!

You have to really push hard to get 7! Plowing snow or over 90 constantly.

If it works, it works! Certainly doesn't cost anything to try....

Fummins swap? I was using a length of binder chain. Didn't have much problem standing my stock 235/85 R16 spare. The inflated tire took a bit of the jerk out as I slammed those stumps again and again.

The spare tire trick is key! I'm very surprised that Oswald couldn't jerk out those bushes, and had enough traction on wet grass that he didn't spin. That does indeed sound very tired. Maybe his timing chain is completely knackered? Does he spit back through the carb? A really retarded cam will result in absolutely no nuts.

Drop it on! 😈 It works well enough on my truck. Certainly much easier to tweak to perfection! A 460 in a little Bronco should rip! JBG and L&L started this mess, putting 385's in lightweight trucks with their conversion mounts, flywheels, headers and the like.

I just wanted to point out that not everybody is happy. So please take my personal opinion with a grain of salt. My experience has been good. I have a DB starter and their 130A 3G alternator. China. Yes. Problems. No. Hope your 4th has been great as well!

You say you have header wrap. I don't know how tight Hooker long tubes are on a Windsor. You might take a tomato or pineapple juice can and make a heat shield that covers as much of the starter as you can.

Right. And it says E-series van, so you can be pretty sure it's for a flex plate... I've found DB to be as good as any for starters and alternators. Their customer service is top notch IMHE. John Lindsey said he had an alternator that failed prematurely. But he had wiring problems that were never resolved here on the forum. Do what you like. If you're worried about it, buy it through their Amazon store. Amazon ALWAYS makes good. Certainly can't beat the price, + free delivery! Roll the dice, take your chances...

Don't you hate it when it lights you up! Don't need a lot of voltage when you have plenty of electrolytes. I like to tell the story of when my departed friend was leaning against the Coca Cola machine in the pizzaria and I grabbed the neon sign ballast, then held his sweaty arm! He didn't know what happened, at first!

Progress is Gooooood! I hope you're feeling better, and don't over do it on the holiday!

God bless America! 🇺🇲

Did you look at the application chart? 🤔 All Windsor bell pattern trucks take the same starter. Well, you need to differentiate between manual or automatic, because the engagement depth is different for a flywheel than a flexplate...

Like this... https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/ford-f-truck-bronco-4-9l-300-6cyl-new-starter-1965-1996-3223-410-14033.html Ford #'s. F2TU-11000-AA, F2TZ-11002-A, F7PU-11000-FA, F7PZ-11002-FA

The Bronco is an anachronism. It was never meant to last 50 years and a lot of technological progress has been made. If she doesn't like it, more for us!!!

Ford used Phillips because they will cam out before stripping. You might try a flex (spring, cable) extension and a battery impact set for medium. Finding a 7mm hex driver is not funday on a Sunday..... Why? I've got no idea what was going on in the heads of Ford engineers. But it was late '70's-early '80's and John DeLorean probably shipped some product through Dearborn!