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I bought this because it was a great deal (U-haul) but my link is fine and I'm clearing out the barn. Shipping may be awkward, IDK, but I think I paid $25 & $20 to ship. It's the bent one that fits TTB and has the ball joint for the driver's side tie rod. $230ish from Moog at my Carquest. Still at the barn, but definitely available... Will add pic, if I remember next time. 💡

Anybody want a VERY lightly used (3 miles) strap type pinion yoke? My stupidity is your gain! 😂 Just pay for shipping. This will fit '85-92 10.25 'Sterling' pinions.

I had it left over from another 3G install I did. Soldered copper lugs and a 150A fuse. At least I KNOW the inverter isn't struggling because of anything I did.....

That made me laugh out loud in the airport. Here's what I saw when I crawled under the truck. Up north we call that automatic rust proofing!

The block changed in '79 when it became external balance. D9TE. While not technically a 'rope' it does need to be installed *before* the crank main caps, or you have to pull it through with a special tool, and the ends NEED to be offset from the joint or it WILL leak. (trust me on this) Dropping the crank while still in the truck is damn near impossible with 4wd. No matter, I don't want to think about doing it in place.

Rope style RMS. You really need to drop the crank to pull it through. I wouldn't want to attempt this with the engine in the truck, but I don't like any more frustration than I already get every day.

I installed my 'spare' 2,000W Jupiter in my friend Dawn's ice cream truck a couple of months back. '0'Ga. Cable an HMEG and a race car battery disconnect under the hood I mounted it to the side of the cabin heater box in the P30, just in front of the passenger jump seat to keep the cable lengths short. She reports that it's really nice to have USB to charge her phone, because it's used to stream music and as a hotspot for Square transactions. Photos in the WHYDTYTT....

I was reading last week that over 1,300 people died -this year alone - making the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca... Death Valley is 800' below sea level. The name is appropriate.

If they had migrated from Nabble they'd have the code written already!

Thank you for that, Bill. My point is that Danny's GCWR drops substantially once you factor a laden dually crew cab. While it is an impressive tow pig, and the extra length helps keep the tail from wagging the dog, we have to be mindful that often things are not as rosy as they seem. Danny is doing it right, but I see plenty of 40 year old pickups I wouldn't trust not to lose a brake line in a panic stop. Remember I see LOTS of accidents, It doesn't have to be your fault to kill you.

Back when vehicles had full size spares, not runflats and TPMS, Porsche & Audi's had a pretty nice 12V pump Nice enough that I would grab them if taking one of those to the shredder

I agree 100% with all of this except there being no bumper rated to over 3K trailer. Bumper hitches rated for more than that aren't real common, but the factory bumper on my '85 F-250 was stamped that it was rated for 5K. But what people call a "bumper-pull" trailer often isn't really. They just mean it's not a 5th wheel. So look at what the bumper hitch is really rated for and get a receiver if you're exceeding it. Plus you might need a weight distributing hitch to safely and legally tow near the "bumper pull" rating, and a weight distruibutng hitch will require a receiver. Okay, I wasn't aware of a factory bumper that exceeded 3,000 lbs, but I stand corrected. Maybe my '87 Custom argent step bumper isn't where your 85 is? I should look closer at these things. But I definitely give no quarter to calling a receiver a 'bumper' My C-IV has a whole lot more meat attached directly to, and spread out along the frame rails. I'd never expect a cheesy pair of bumper brackets to come close.

You missed the PTO drive. Compressor or generator, doesn't really matter. Plenty of horsepower. Easy to engage or disengage....

You seem to have this backwards. If the alternator can only 'sense' declining battery voltage (or just "normal" -not charging-) battery voltage below it's -usual- 14.35V set point, then it will keep raising output (both amps AND volts) until it sees that. I've seen voltages of 20 and alternators literally smoking because the sense wire failed. or, in your scenario, the fuse, holder, connection, did Think of it like this... What would happen if you put your house thermostat on the outside? The thermostat is divorced from the internal temperature and the AC or heater will continue to run full tilt but never be able to affect what the thermostat is actually "sensing" Almost the moment the megafuse is out of the circuit your battery is going to be headed towards its steady state of 12.6V, even without any loads placed on it. The alternator is going to go full field, and it won't have any battery to absorb the charge. That's a recipe for disaster. And yet all manufacturers state to put the sense wire as close to the battery positive terminal as possible. It was done this way when our trucks were new and it was still done with the 3G in the 1990s. The charge wire is fused between the battery and the alternator and the sense wire is going to be between the battery and the fuse for the charge wire Just like our trucks the sense wire hooks to the solenoid from the regulator and the charge wire has a fusible link in line and it connects to the same battery lug on the starter solenoid. If this charge wire fusible link fails the same situation you speak of would be there, the sense wire is reading battery voltage with the charge wire not providing voltage/amperage to the battery circuit. Even if the battery voltage dropped to 12.6v the alternator will only ramp up output to the voltage set point which on mine is under 14.5v, outside of a regulator failure the alternator would never put out more than 14.5 volts Your alternator is reading the battery -ON THE OTHER SIDE OF A BLOWN FUSE- The battery is going to immediately drop towards 12.6 from where it WAS charging. The damn alternator is going to crank itself up to max (just like "ground here to test") and stay there, charging into an open circuit. The windings and diode board have to try and dissipate that heat. It's appalling that our schools fail to teach even the most rudimentary maths and science, but maybe I need to reset my horizons in a day and age where everyone gets a participation trophy.

Jim & Bob are right. It takes a LOT of 12V current to run my compressor, but it does a fantastic job to air up tires. Probably 10x faster than most 12V compressors - which makes sense as it uses 10x the current. I don't even think about running it w/o the engine running, and even then unless I use the hand throttle and bring the engine up to ~1000 RPM it won't keep the battery charged. As long as the inverter isn't screaming "low voltage" you should be fine. But if the tank won't even come up to pressure before that happens, then engaging PTO mode makes sense. Back in the carburetor days you'd just have a kicker solenoid that would raise the throttle stop. And while there are losses in every step of turning mechanical energy into electricity, stepping up the voltage and making AC, taking AC to turn a motor, to turn a pump... where a Sanden or other swash plate compressor cuts a lot of that out it still doesn't offer you the ability to charge your phone or brew a cup of coffee... And that's where a big enough inverter really shines. 6kW is a lot of inrush or momentary load. You can get work done with that puppy!

Grant, If you go to the first post of your thread, on the right side you will see "more". Click this, then click "permalink" at the bottom, copy that, then paste it into your post. Permalink to Grant's thread Dennis Carpenter used to have the panels. They still have the upper moulding, letters & badges. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/tailgate/tailgates/?per_page=24&sort_by=1&filter%5Bcustom1%5D%5B0%5D=Truck&filter%5Bcustom4%5D%5B0%5D=F250&filter%5Bcustom2%5D%5B0%5D=1983&_gl=1*1fhok3*_up*MQ__&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv7O0BhDwARIsAC0sjWON7WHR_dADLc4-LOltMuqrDASoumV7C7stgR3YFGziXPdIRkbWQ7AaAjBHEALw_wcB I never had an XL/T so I haven't given much thought to the cover panels, except that unblemished ones are incredibly rare.

I have the dually with what I believe is 3.54s should be rated at 9500lb on the bumper 12k fifth wheel if I am remember correctly. I'll double check the codes but it's either Dana 3.54 or 4.10. These are GCVWR, and are for a receiver and a 5th wheel type attachment. What's the tare weight on a dually crew cab full of fuel with you in it? There's no bumper rated for more than 3k trailer. Here is the factory manual if you don't trust me. https://xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/1986-Ford-RV-Trailer-Towing-Guide.pdf Vendor reviews are a poll. You can vote and leave feedback in the marketplace section.

I hear it's possible to change a pan gasket in-situ with a 2x4 460. Just not able to if you have TTB in the way of dropping the pan. I got pretty nice aluminum valve covers for (I think) $60 by watching eBay, and throwing in a last second bid. Those and some red silicone gaskets work SO much better at keeping the oil in, it's amazing 🤩

Glad to be of any help, John. Your truck sounds like the way that mine came. It is very strong with just the stock cam and a proper straight up timing chain set. Laden with firewood your truck shouldn't have any problem with traction either! Good tires are going to be the limiting factor.

Fit like a glove in that 11x12 flat rate box!

Keep in mind that 6 amps at 120V is60 amps at 12V. Or that Gary's 1.5 hp is ~1100 watts, or ~93 amps at 12V. So it's definitely possible, but it is serious automotive electrical power, and needs to be wired accordingly. And you probably don't want to run it (at least much) without the engine running. (This is why most 12V air compressors are so anemic. Too much copper is required to get them enough power otherwise) I think this is why Gary put the 3000w (6000 peak) inverter I gave him behind the seat, and ran a 120V cord to the compressor head. That inverter has multiple outlets and usb A's I believe... It also had a remote on/off but I don't think I could find that. He has it wired into his mission control panel anyhow. 💡

One thermal valve is for EGR the other is for vacuum advance if overheating. The distributor pulls in more advance at idle, spinning the fan and water pump faster when that 460 is stuck in a traffic jam. Think of it like an idle kicker that is also making for cooler ignition.

Buy the Valvoline in bags. It's much easier to fill if you just scrunch the bag up from the bottom. Now that I have a drain plug I'd get rid of my suction gun if it weren't for the D44 up front. That thing always seems to make a mess. (maybe it's just me? ) Edit photo

I believe I just sprayed the insides with WD40 when I changed the accelerator pump. (which is why it came off) But the 750 seemed to pull harder on top, so the AVS just got parked on a shelf in the barn. It was fine then, but I don't know what condensation & dust may have done over the years. Pull the lid off and take a look. If it isn't crusty it should be good to go. 👍 If Gary remembers, it looked like it came from the bottom of a lake when I got it! I was on an eBay spree, and got my ribbed Mercruiser valve covers about the same time.

I don't know where to put this, but I think y'all ought to have a good laugh at my expense. I can say with authority that you haven't known disaster until you go to move your toolbox down a goat path and drive it to the next county not realizing where that can of high tack (that you left the lid loose, because you would never get it back off) happened to be hiding!!!